How To Install a Linoleum Tile Floor
Project Overview
Linoleum is a natural, durable material made from linseed oil and wood flour. Unlike vinyl, the colour runs all the way through the tile, making it incredibly hard-wearing for high-traffic areas like kitchens and hallways.
Tools and Materials Required
Linoleum tiles: Measure your room and add 10% for "wastage" (off-cuts).
Linoleum adhesive: Check the manufacturer's recommendation for a compatible water-based adhesive.
Notched trowel: For spreading the adhesive evenly.
Utility knife: With plenty of spare heavy-duty blades.
Straight edge or T-square: For accurate cutting.
Tape measure: 5m or 8m should suffice.
Floor roller: A 45kg (100lb) roller is recommended for a professional bond.
Embossing leveller: If you are laying over existing floor coverings.
Step 1: Preparation and Acclimatisation
Linoleum is a natural product that can expand or contract slightly depending on the environment.
Acclimatise: Place the boxes of tiles in the room where they will be installed for at least 48 hours before starting.
Clear the Room: Remove all furniture, appliances, and any pedestal sinks or toilets if necessary.
Remove Trim: Carefully pry away the skirting boards and door thresholds using a pry bar. If you plan to reuse them, pull the nails through the back of the timber to avoid splitting the face.
Remove Doors: Take doors off their hinges to allow you to work easily right up to the threshold.
Step 2: Preparing the Subfloor
The finish of your linoleum will only be as good as the surface beneath it.
Check for Level: Ensure the floor is clean, dry, and perfectly level. Sand down high spots on floorboards or fill cracks in concrete.
Plywood Underlayment: For the best results over timber floorboards, lay 6mm flooring-grade plywood. Fix it with screws or ring-shank nails every 100mm-150mm along the edges and every 200mm across the centre.
Existing Floors: If laying over old vinyl or tiles, use an embossing leveller to fill any grout lines or textures that might "telegraph" (show through) to the new surface.
Step 3: Mapping the Layout
To avoid ending up with tiny, difficult-to-cut strips at the walls:
Find the Centre: Measure the length and width of the room to find the exact centre point.
Snap Chalk Lines: Use a chalk line to create two intersecting lines that divide the room into four quarters.
Dry Run: Lay a row of tiles from the centre to each wall without adhesive. If the gap at the wall is less than half a tile, shift your centre line slightly to ensure a more balanced look.
Step 4: Spreading the Adhesive
Work in Sections: Start in one of the quadrants created by your chalk lines.
Apply Glue: Use your notched trowel to spread the adhesive over a small area (roughly 1-2 square metres at a time). Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to ensure the correct "bead" of glue.
Open Time: Check the adhesive instructions for the "open time"—this is how long the glue needs to sit before you place the tiles to ensure the strongest bond.
Step 5: Laying the Tiles
Positioning: Place the first tile precisely at the intersection of your chalk lines. Press it firmly into the adhesive.
Joining: Place the next tile tightly against the edge of the first. Ensure there are no gaps between the tiles.
Cutting Perimeter Tiles: To fit tiles against the wall, place a loose tile exactly over the last full tile laid. Place another tile on top, butting it against the wall (leave a tiny 2mm expansion gap). Use the edge of the top tile as a guide to score the tile beneath.
Snap and Trim: Cut along the score line with your utility knife and "snap" the tile. Fit the cut piece into the gap.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
Roll the Floor: Once the quadrant is complete, use a heavy floor roller to press the tiles into the adhesive. Start from the centre and roll outwards to push out any trapped air.
Clean Up: Use a damp cloth to remove any adhesive that has squeezed up between the seams before it dries.
Replace Trim: Reinstall your skirting boards and thresholds. You may need to plane the bottom of your doors if the new floor height is slightly higher.
Curing: Avoid heavy foot traffic for 24 hours and do not wash the floor for at least three days to allow the adhesive to fully cure.
Source: www.ThisOldHouse.com
