Zubaidah bint Jafar Al-Mansour
Excerpt from Islamic Art in Conext: Art, Architecture, and the Literary World by Robert Irwin:
According to the North African historian Ibn Khaldun (1332-1406), "It is part of royal and governmental pomp and dynastic custom to have the names of rulers or their peculiar marks embroidered on the silk, brocade, or pure silk garments that are prepared for their wearing." Sadly, no examples of Abbasid textiles have survived, but Ibn Khaldun informs us that such robes were designed to increase the prestige of the ruler and those whom he honored by bestowing such garments upon them.
Al-Masudi has also left us details of the way in which a woman's taste influenced the production and patronage of certain types of textiles. Zubayda, Harun al-Rashid's wife, was famous for her extravagant display and introduced "the fashion for slippers embroidered with precious stones." She also established the custom of uniformed page girls wearing turbans and clothes produced in royal tiraz factories. Al-Masudi informs us that "it was then that the fashion for having young slave-girls with short hair, wearing qabas [tight-sleeved coats] and belts, became established at all levels of society."