#sumbay

The Andean high plateau (aka Altiplano), only 60 kilometers from Arequipa in southern Peru, can be reached from that city in about one and a half hours in a drive that ascends 1800 meters (5900 feet). This ride goes from fertile Andean valleys watered by the Chili River in the city of Arequipa to rugged terrain more than 4000 meters above sea level (13000 f.a.s.l.) where only a few species of plants grow due to its tough weather conditions. At the Altiplano, temperatures drop below freezing at night most of the year while the days are filled with high ultraviolet rays.

Even though living conditions are rough in this land, herds of vicuñas, llamas and alpacas have been freely roaming it since ancient times. Here, these species of camelids feed on a common grass known as Ichu (Peruvian feathergrass). In this area are a few sources of water which attract other species of animals such as pumas, Andean foxes, South-American flamingos (aka parihuanas), among others.

This ecosystem was what probably attracted the makers of the Sumbay paintings. Carved in small caves between 6000 and 8000 years ago by nomads who hunted in this area, these paintings are a magnificent legacy since they show the way of living of the first inhabitants of this land. Standing in the small rocky canyon where the caves are located, you are invited to wonder why these people ended up in such a remote area where temperatures are so extreme, when only 80 kilometers away was a land with fertile valleys and comfortable temperatures, the white city, Arequipa. Personally, I am led to believe that they spent most of their time in Arequipa and traveled by foot to this land in search of meat and wool.

Although the caves are fascinating, Sumbay is one of those ancient attractions in Peru that are not visited by foreign and local travelers on a daily basis. Actually, there are no shared tours available to visit this site and travelers must hire the services of a private tour or rent a four-wheel drive to get there. I have been at the Sumbay Caves a handful of times. Every time I’ve gone, it was by private transportation and my group was the only one there.

If you want to visit the caves, you should know that they can be reached by accessing a detour on the road that connects the city of Arequipa and the town of Chivay where Colca Canyon is located. This detour, a dirt road in pretty bad condition, will take you to the small village of Sumbay and then to the trail to access the caves. The caves are protected by a gate which has three locks; visitors must get the keys at the village of Sumbay from the custodian. It is important to know that the custodian is not always in the village; therefore, arrangements should be made in Arequipa with a local travel agent who has his contact before heading there.

Finally, if you are planning a trip to Sumbay, your visit should include the waterfalls of Pillones and the stone forest of Imata. Both are located in the vicinity of Sumbay, and a full-day excursion is enough to cover these three sites (about 9-10 hours). If you would like to arrange a private tour, you may contact a local tour operator such as rgcperutours.com or contact us to help you find the right adventure for you.