My Peru Guide

While growing up, I used to spend some summers in the small beach town of Mejia located just an hour and a half away from my hometown, Arequipa. Mejia used to be a very small town which was mainly populated during the summer months; and the rest of the year it was more like a ghost town. Nowadays, this has changed very little and the regular population of this tiny town doesn’t even reach 2000 people. During the summer months the amount of people in town can be easily multiplied tenfold.

My childhood and teenage years are filled with great memories collected in this town. My most memorable memories in this town are the ones I spent at the beach with my friends and at the National Sanctuary of Mejia Lagoons where I used to go for walks to wander around and learn about the immense natural wildlife available in the area. Looking for different species of birds and insects was a fulfilling game that taught me to love nature and outdoor activities.

Now that I live in Southern California, I try to go back to my hometown at least once a year to visit my parents, relatives, and friends, and whenever time allows, I go back to Mejia to spend time in its lagoons. In this National Sanctuary there are three lagoons (Mejia, Iberia and Boqueron) where at least 80 species of birds can be observed during the year among endemic and migratory birds. Some of the birds, I usually find here are the Franklin Gull, the Slender-billed Finch, the Sanderling, the Chilean flamingo, the Common moorhen, the Green kingfisher, the Turkey vulture, the Snowy egret, the Little blue heron, the Tricolor heron, and  the Red-fronted coot, among many others.

The National Sanctuary of Mejia Lagoons was created by the Peruvian government back in 1984 with an extension of 690.60 hectares and it is located right next to the town of Mejia and its long shoreline where birds feed out of the abundant species of fish and seafood available in the area. Back in 1992, it was included in the Ramsar Convention and it is considered an important area for birdwatching by BirdLife International.

The Mejia Lagoons can be visited in one day starting and ending from the city of Arequipa; therefore, if you are a birdwatcher or you enjoy nature, this natural site should be on your list of places to visit while in Peru. Group tours are not available and visits to this site are usually arranged as a private service. RGC Peru Tours is a local tour operator that offers this service for fair prices and provides a great service.

An article in a Peruvian news site about a hidden gem known as Waqrapukara in Peru caught my attention in 2018. At 4140 m.a.s.l., this ancient site is built on top of a mountain which is shaped like two horns. Believed to be about 5000 years old, Waqrapukara was first occupied by the Paqarimuq Runas. What remains of its structures has been mainly attributed to the Incas and the inhabitants prior to them, the Qanchis. Surrounded by beautiful landscape, this site is accessible only on foot.

 A year after having read the article on Waqrapukara, I was in the Region of Cusco driving from the natural site of Palcoyo (aka the other rainbow mountain) to the Andean town of Acomayo. Once at Acomayo my friends Aldo (a cameraman), and Jose (a local tour guide who owns a local tour operation in Cusco City), and I started to look for accommodations for the night and for a place to eat. There was only one place open to eat and there were only three places to get a room in the entire town. After eating, we found a little posada to spend the night and park the truck. This place had no charm but the owner gave us very useful information to get to Waqrapukara.

 The next morning, we left the posada at six in the morning, and then we stopped by the local marketplace to get something to eat and a basic lunch for what was about to come.  We ate a couple of egg sandwiches with a quinoa-based drink and bought Andean cheese sandwiches and bananas for the hike. One hour later we were heading to the starting point of the trek known as Campi and one and a half hours later we made it to the campsite of Campi, (which seemed to be abandoned, but open to public.) The first fifteen minutes of the ride were on asphalt, but the remainder of the drive was on a dirt road in bad condition.

 Once at Campi, we secured the car and started our journey to Waqrapukara. The trail to the site borders one of the sides of the Apurimac Mountain range, where the landscape was constantly changing. As we were hiking, we noticed that nature mixed with massive stones which have enigmatic shapes (some even looking like the profiles of people) and deep cliffs. Also, deep blue skies with dramatic clouds accompanied us along the way. It took us 3 and a half hours to get to the top of the mountain, where Waqrapukara is located.  

 The hike was great and the site was so mysterious and breathtaking due to its location and magnificent views, but it is important to know that there are no signs to tell you where to go. As a result, my friend Aldo, who is not an experienced hiker, got lost on the way back even when he was just fifteen minutes away from Campi. It was getting dark and I was very lucky to find him wandering with no direction after half an hour.

 If you are an explorer who would like to visit Waqrapukara, you need to know that there are a few places from which you can access the site by foot, but the most popular ones start from the Andean communities of Wayqui (access from Acomayo town) or Santa Lucia (access from the lake of Pomacanchi), or the one we chose, the campsite known as Campi (access from Acomayo town). For this excursion, you will need to hire the services of a driver to take you to any of the starting points or hire a tour provider that offers this tour service since there is no public transportation to get you to the beginning of the trek. Visit MyPeruGuide.com to find a reliable local tour operator or a driver.

I have the opportunity to go back to my country only once or twice a year, so every time I go, I try to make the best of it by getting to know new and exciting places. One of my favorite places in southern Peru is the Colca Canyon, located in the region of Arequipa, where I am originally from. During my last visit in June of this year, I rented a four-wheel drive truck to get to Colca Canyon through the El Pedregal route. I didn’t know what to expect from this route because it isn’t frequently traveled. The route goes from the town of El Pedregal to the town of Cabanaconde, located at the heart of the canyon. This route is so remote that while I was driving it, I didn’t encounter more than 10 vehicles.

The Colca Canyon was my first stop on a 9-day excursion which also included Lake Titicaca and Cusco. My first day started in the city of Arequipa at 6:15am, when I left my parents’ house to pick up a good friend and then head to the town of Corire in the valley of Majes. In about 2 hours of driving, we went from a typical Andean valley to a deserted land where I got to cross fertile valleys watered by different rivers (from 2,328 to 429 m.a.s.l.). For this portion of the trip, the paved road was in perfect condition, and by the time I got to the access point of Corire Canyon, a massive cloud was covering the valley. This view was so bizarre that I couldn’t stop admiring it and wondering what lay below all the clouds.

At the bottom of the valley, we found our way to the petroglyphs of Toro Muerto, where hundreds of stones had been carved most likely during the time that the Wari culture ruled this land more than 1000 years ago. These stones are an amazing display of the practices and customs of the Wari people as well as subsequent inhabitants of the area such as the Collahua and Inca people. We spent two hours walking around observing different drawings, during which time the clouds dissipated to allow a beautiful view of the valley.

At 11:30am, we left Corire to get to the road that would take us to the town of Cabanaconde in the Colca Valley. In about one hour we made it to this road in the town of El Pedregal. This portion of the road was still paved, but after about 5 kilometers, a dirt road, known as Route 109, began, continuing in this condition until we were close to Cabanaconde, where a paved road was available again. While the dirt road was in bad condition (a four-wheel drive is definitely needed), the landscape made it worthwhile, for the view just got better and better.

As we were getting closer to the Colca Canyon, we observed a couple of dwarf volcanoes and a great view of the Sabancaya and Coropuna volcanoes as well as several snowy peaks. Once the sun started to set, the landscape and the sky started to change colors, creating a spectacle impossible to forget. After 5 hours, we reached the Andean town of Cabanaconde, where we spent the night, and we gained (2858 m.a.s.l.).  This is one of my favorite towns in the Colca Canyon because it has one of the best views of the canyons. It is also the starting point for the San Galle Oasis trek, which takes you to the bottom of the canyon, where people continue to practice their ancient customs.

If you are an explorer visiting Arequipa and the Colca Canyon, you may want to take part in this adventure to get to the Colca Canyon from the city of Arequipa. For this excursion, you will need a four-wheel drive and a driver or guide who has experience driving on dirt roads and is familiar with the road or is able to speak Spanish to ask for directions when needed. (There are no directions from El Pedregal to Cabanaconde.) Visit MyPeruGuide.com to find a local tour operator.

The Andean high plateau (aka Altiplano), only 60 kilometers from Arequipa in southern Peru, can be reached from that city in about one and a half hours in a drive that ascends 1800 meters (5900 feet). This ride goes from fertile Andean valleys watered by the Chili River in the city of Arequipa to rugged terrain more than 4000 meters above sea level (13000 f.a.s.l.) where only a few species of plants grow due to its tough weather conditions. At the Altiplano, temperatures drop below freezing at night most of the year while the days are filled with high ultraviolet rays.

Even though living conditions are rough in this land, herds of vicuñas, llamas and alpacas have been freely roaming it since ancient times. Here, these species of camelids feed on a common grass known as Ichu (Peruvian feathergrass). In this area are a few sources of water which attract other species of animals such as pumas, Andean foxes, South-American flamingos (aka parihuanas), among others.

This ecosystem was what probably attracted the makers of the Sumbay paintings. Carved in small caves between 6000 and 8000 years ago by nomads who hunted in this area, these paintings are a magnificent legacy since they show the way of living of the first inhabitants of this land. Standing in the small rocky canyon where the caves are located, you are invited to wonder why these people ended up in such a remote area where temperatures are so extreme, when only 80 kilometers away was a land with fertile valleys and comfortable temperatures, the white city, Arequipa. Personally, I am led to believe that they spent most of their time in Arequipa and traveled by foot to this land in search of meat and wool.

Although the caves are fascinating, Sumbay is one of those ancient attractions in Peru that are not visited by foreign and local travelers on a daily basis. Actually, there are no shared tours available to visit this site and travelers must hire the services of a private tour or rent a four-wheel drive to get there. I have been at the Sumbay Caves a handful of times. Every time I’ve gone, it was by private transportation and my group was the only one there.

If you want to visit the caves, you should know that they can be reached by accessing a detour on the road that connects the city of Arequipa and the town of Chivay where Colca Canyon is located. This detour, a dirt road in pretty bad condition, will take you to the small village of Sumbay and then to the trail to access the caves. The caves are protected by a gate which has three locks; visitors must get the keys at the village of Sumbay from the custodian. It is important to know that the custodian is not always in the village; therefore, arrangements should be made in Arequipa with a local travel agent who has his contact before heading there.

Finally, if you are planning a trip to Sumbay, your visit should include the waterfalls of Pillones and the stone forest of Imata. Both are located in the vicinity of Sumbay, and a full-day excursion is enough to cover these three sites (about 9-10 hours). If you would like to arrange a private tour, you may contact a local tour operator such as rgcperutours.com or contact us to help you find the right adventure for you.

Having lived the past 15 years in southern California, I nevertheless still have a strong connection with my native country of Peru, which has pushed me to get involved in the tourism industry so that I can share with others Peru’s fascinating attractions. Every year I organize a trip to my hometown, Arequipa. During my last visit I put together a four-day itinerary sure to please travelers coming from the US, Canada, Australia, or Europe. This itinerary includes outdoor activities, archaeological and historical sites, good local food, and a visit to one of my favorite places in Peru, the Colca Canyon.

This four-day journey started with an early buffet-style breakfast at the Katari Hotel, located in the main square of Arequipa. I chose this boutique-style hotel for my stay due to its mid-range prices and its great location. (Staying in a safe area in downtown or nearby areas is a plus.) After breakfast, I visited the colonial sites of “La Mansion del Fundador” and “El Molino de Sabandía,” where I experienced the mysteries of their ancient rooms and took in the history revealed in their antique artifacts. These colonial sites are an important part of Arequipa’s history and are located on the outskirts of the city, surrounded by local farms. Afterwards I stopped at “La Tradición Arequipeña” to enjoy some local dishes such as “Rocoto Relleno” (stuffed local chili pepper), “Pastel de Papa” (potato cake), and “Cauche de Queso” (cheese and potato soup) with a local “Chicha de Jora” (purple corn beverage).

Right after lunch I headed back downtown to visit the “Museo Santuarios Andinos,” where I viewed well-preserved Incan mummies, and then I walked to the Monastery of Santa Catalina, where I spent a couple hours touring this enigmatic colonial citadel where nuns lived enclosed from the moment they entered it. Once this visit ended, I went for a walk to the marketplace known as “El Fundo del Fierro,” located next to the San Francisco Church, to look for the work of local handcrafters. My day ended at Chicha by Gastón Acurio, where I enjoyed a delicious regional meal that included an “Ocopa” (local famous sauce with potatoes and egg), “Adobo” (traditional stew made with “chicha” (corn beverage) and pork), and “Queso Helado” (a local dessert).

My second day started with an outdoor activity in the Chilina Valley. I was picked up at 8:00am by my good friend Kike Rondon to raft the Chili River, which crosses the city. The adventure in the river lasted an hour and a half. (From mid-April to mid-December this river offers a safe experience, and travelers do not need to have rafting experience.) By 11:00am I was wandering around the quaint town of Yanahuara, where, with its narrow streets and white-walled antique buildings, time seems to have stood still. For lunch I walked to the traditional restaurant known as “La Nueva Palomino Picanteria,” where I enjoyed a “Picanteada,” which consists of three local stews exquisitely served.

After lunch I headed toward the downtown area of Arequipa by crossing the Grau Bridge, made of “sillares,” a whitish volcanic stone used to build much of the city. Reaching downtown, I wandered around this World Heritage Site by visiting the Cathedral and its museum, the Jesuit Church and its cloisters, and “La Casa del Moral.” As the sun started to set, I went to my hotel’s restaurant to enjoy a cup of coffee and dessert with the view of the main square, the Cathedral, and the three volcanoes surrounding the city. This day ended with dinner at Salamanto, where Chef Paul Perea has created a unique menu based on local ingredients and a great selection of wines.

For my visit to Colca, I decided to rent a truck so I could have flexibility. I left my hotel at 6:30am to avoid traffic and by 8:30am I was observing vicuñas (camelids from the llama family) at “Pampa Cañahuas.” After only 45 minutes, I was at the “Sumbay Caves,” wondering how it was possible that thousands of years ago early Peruvians managed to survive in this hostile environment, carving in the walls their hunting survival activities. By midday, I was checking in at the Colca Lodge, located in the Andean town of Yanque. After a light lunch and a short rest to recover from the high elevation, I went for a hike to the Uyo Uyo Inca site. This is the better preserved Inca site in the region of Arequipa, with several Andean terraces to walk around. I went back right before sunset to enjoy the natural hot springs of the lodge, which are located next to the Colca River.

The last day of this journey started with an early visit to the Yanque main square, where, every day, local kids perform a traditional dance known as “Wititi.” This adventure continued with a visit to the Condor Cross, where the largest flying birds in the world offer a magnificent spectacle as they soar between the walls of one of the deepest canyons in the world. Once the condors were out of sight, I started heading back to Arequipa. On my way, I stopped in the Andean towns of Maca and Chivay, where there are a few options to enjoy lunch. On the ride back, there were plenty of opportunities to observe llamas, alpacas, endemic birds, and several volcanoes.

Travelers from the US, Canada, Australia, Great Britain, and EU countries need only a valid passport to enter Peru, but it needs to be valid for at least six months past the planned date of departure from Peru.

When traveling to Peru, especially for the first time, travelers need to take precautions to avoid an illness which can ruin a vacation. In Peru, the main health issues for travelers are related to stomach infections due to the ingestion of contaminated food or liquids and altitude sickness in high-altitude cities. The risk of getting a stomach infection can be reduced by avoiding food sold by street vendors or in low-quality restaurants, and drinking purified water at all times. In the case of altitude sickness, the risk of getting its uncomfortable symptoms can be reduced by ascending gradually, starting with a city such as Arequipa. If going directly to Cusco, it’s important to take it easy the first day, drink plenty of liquids, and avoid heavy meals and alcoholic beverages. Visitors to the Amazon rainforest may need to get a yellow fever shot and take malaria pills.

In Peru, travelers need to take the same precautions they would when in a crowded, big city. Robberies are common in Peru, but if precautions are taken, travelers should not have to deal with this. In restaurants, personal belongings should never be left unattended. Also, do not exchange money on the street because there is a high occurrence of fake bills in Peru.  

The best way to get to know and understand the customs and culture of a country is to take part in its festivals and celebrations. Peru is a country rich in its diversity, where travelers can enjoy thousand-year-old customs shaped by the beliefs and practices of the ancient Peruvians; the Spanish conquerors; and the descendants of the Africans, Asians, and Europeans who came to Peru along the way.

Here is a list of the most interesting and relevant festivals and celebrations that take place in Southern Peru:

Lima:

Lima City Anniversary Celebration: Takes place on January 18, but several activities are organized during that week

National Contest of the Peruvian Horse: Taking place in Pachacamac during the month of April, it congregates the best specimens of this breed.

“El Señor de los Milagros”: This Catholic celebration takes place in downtown Lima during the month of October (18, 19 and 28).

Ica:

International Grape Harvest Festival: Takes place in the city of Ica during the first or second week of March. (Dates can change.)

Ica City Anniversary Celebration: Takes place on June 17, but several activities are organized during the week before and after the main day.

Arequipa:

Arequipa City Anniversary Celebration: Takes place on August 15, but several activities are organized during the entire month.

Wititi Dance: Takes place in the town of Yanque from the 6th to the 12th of December. The main day is the 8th, when the Day of the Immaculate Conception is celebrated.

Cusco:

Replacement of the Q’eswachaca Inca Bridge: Takes place during the first week of June. Every year a new bridge is built to replace the existing one, still maintaining the techniques and practices first used by the Incas. 

The Lord of Q’oyllur Ritti: Taking place in the district of Ocongate, this is one of the best examples of the syncretism of the Andean and Catholic beliefs and practices. Celebration dates change every year.

Inti Raymi Festival: Taking place on June 24 every year, it is the most important celebration in the city of Cusco. 700 people reenact this Inca celebration to their deity, the Sun.

Puno:

Candelaria Festival: Taking place in February in the city of Puno, this celebration lasts 18 days starting with the first day of the month. The second day of the month is the most important one as it congregates hundreds of dancers and musicians to commemorate the Virgen of “La Candelaria.”

Aimara New Year: Takes place on June 21 at the Huajsapata Hill in the city of Puno, where locals commemorate the winter solstice.

When travelers choose Peru as their next destination, the majority of them plan their visit to get to Machu Picchu as soon as possible, and end-up missing the many varied cultural and recreational activities that Peru has to offer. A common comment from visitors is that if they had known more about Peru, they would have planned their trip differently; therefore, if you are planning a visit, you should carefully research all possible options to get the most out of your vacation in Peru.

An example of this is the region of Lima. Many travelers think that Lima, the capital city, is just another overpopulated capital with not much to offer. Although Lima is a heavily populated metropolis, most of its population comes from the other 23 regions of Peru, thus making it a multicultural capital where all the diverse customs and practices of Peruvians converge to offer a great experience to travelers.

Thus, Lima is history, culture, food, and a coast with beautiful beaches. The history of the region of Lima started with the people of Caral about 5,000 years ago. Caral was discovered in 1997 by the Peruvian archaeologist Ruth Shady, and as of today it is the oldest civilization of the Americas. It is believed that their sociopolitical organization served as inspiration for the rest of civilizations which arose in the central Andes of Peru. The remains of this interesting archaeological site are located in the Supe Valley, two and a half hours away from downtown Lima. Before the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, the city of Lima was chosen to be an important administrative site by the Lima, Wari, and Inca civilizations as proven by the remains of archaeological sites such as Huaca Pucllana, Cajamarquilla, and Pachacamac, respectively. The artifacts and remains of these and other Peruvian civilizations are on display in the city’s many museums.  

Several shows in the city allow travelers to experience and learn about Peru’s various customs. For instance, La Dama Juana Restaurant offers a buffet dinner show, where dancers perform some of the most popular genres of the coast, the Andes, and the rainforest. The show is well executed and provides a unique experience where travelers can observe the syncretism of Spanish and native Peruvian customs. The Spanish conquerors also introduced horses to Peru. The horses brought to Peru adapted to their new environment, eventually creating a new breed. These horses, known by their four-beat lateral gait, can be enjoyed every Sunday at “La Hacienda Mamacona,” where a buffet-style lunch is also served.

For food lovers, Peru can be a paradise. In the last 15 years, Peru has become a popular culinary destination, and Peruvian restaurants all around the globe are recognized and prized by the most well-known and popular food magazines and critics. This fame has been gained thanks to its unique native products, the cooking techniques developed over a long period of time by native Peruvians, and the culinary practices brought to Peru by waves of various immigrants, such as the Spaniards, Africans, Chinese, Italians, Japanese, among others. All this diversity can be fully enjoyed in the city of Lima, where the most recognized restaurants of Peru are located. Lima offers restaurants with food options for all tastes and incomes, and travelers won’t be disappointed with any of them. Some restaurants such as “Central,” “Maido,” “Osaka,” “Astrid y Gastón,” and “ámaZ” require reservations made well in advance.

The city of Lima has a totally different feel depending upon when it is visited. From mid-November to April Lima enjoys a lot of sunshine as well as spectacular sunsets. The rest of the year is generally overcast. Going for a walk or a bike ride in the boulevard that connects the districts of San Isidro, Miraflores, and Barranco is a singular experience, but embarking on any of these activities during the summer is a truly incredible one. Also, enjoying a Ceviche with a beer or a Pisco Sour with the view of the Pacific Ocean during a sunny day is just a total pleasure.    

Known as the folk capital of Peru, Puno is also mainly known by travelers for Titicaca Lake, the highest navigable lake in the world. This region was originally occupied by the Pucara and Tiahuanaco civilizations more than 1000 years ago, and it is believed that the founders of the Inca civilization came from this area after the decline of the Tiahuanacos. Puno is also a multicultural region where locals speak Spanish and/or Quechua or Aymara, and their customs and beliefs are a mix of the Andean way of living practiced by early Peruvians and the Catholic practices implemented by the Spaniards.

Lake Titicaca, undeniably the most popular attraction of Puno among travelers, can offer a truly amazing experience. Several communities have inhabited the area around the lake and even in the lake for hundreds of years, and their customs have barely changed. A standard visit to the lake will take travelers to the artificial Uros Islands, were locals have been constructing the islands with the Totora plant (a subspecies of the giant bulrush sedge) for at least 500 years. This one-day tour also allows travelers to visit Taquile Island, where natives welcome visitors and give demonstrations of their ancient practices and way of living. One of their main activities is weaving. Men play an important role in this task, and their clothing tells people who they are in their community.

The standard visit is the most common activity around the lake; however, there are other activities which offer a richer experience. For instance, the people of the Taquile, Amantani, and Uros Islands have prepared basic accommodations to welcome travelers who want to spend the night on the islands. In addition to learning more about the native customs, these travelers get to experience incredible sunsets and sunrises. In addition to these three islands, Suasi Island can offer a superb experience for travelers looking for more comfortable accommodations. The hotel there offers an all-inclusive three-day package for visiting the island and also relaxing in a unique location.

“La Virgen de la Candelaria,” the most interesting and entertaining Andean festival in Peru, takes place in February every year. This celebration congregates hundreds of colorfully costumed dancers and musicians, who energetically perform in the streets of Puno. Their music and dances, having evolved over time, are an artful expression of the syncretism of Quechua, Aymara, and Catholic traditions.

The traditions and customs of the locals are the product of ancient civilizations as well as the harsh environment itself, where humans, plants, and animals have had to adapt to the rugged terrain with its low temperatures and high elevation. The ancient Peruvians who settled in this area left behind the archaeological sites of Pucara and Sillustani. These sites offer important information about their customs and practices. The Pucara people developed an important civilization around 200 BC, building an impressive administrative center where several monoliths representing humans and animals, such as snakes, frogs, pumas, and fish, have been found. Later on, the Tiahuanaco emerged near La Paz in Bolivia and extended their domain to the region of Puno and other regions of southern Peru. At the archaeological site of Sillustani, travelers can observe the remains of tombs built by the Tiahuanacos, Collas, and Incas. This site is located next to Umayo Lake, where Andean flamingo inhabit during the warmer months of the year (mid-October to mid-April).

A visit to Puno should be carefully planned due to its high elevation. It is highly recommended that travelers first visit a lower-elevation region such as Arequipa or Cusco to get acclimated before spending time in Puno. When visiting the region, travelers should stay near the downtown or around the lake. Staying downtown allows travelers to experience the local way of living with several options to enjoy Peruvian food while observing local music and dance performances. Staying close to the lake allows travelers to relax at one of the secluded hotels in that area.

With the longest coast and the deepest canyons in the country, Arequipa is the second most important region of Peru. Here travelers can enjoy Peru’s rich history, the country’s best regional cuisine, and breathtaking natural sites for outdoor lovers. A visit to this interesting region is sure to please travelers who want to learn more about Peru and its hidden gems.

This highly volcanic region boasts several rivers and fertile land, where early nomadic Peruvians hunted endemic species (llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, birds, viscachas, among others) thousands of years ago as proven by the Sumbay Caves’ carved paintings. Its history started with them and continued with the arrival of the Wari people (Toro Muerto Petroglyphs), the Incas (Uyo Uyo Site), and the Spanish conquerors. The city of Arequipa, located at 7661 feet above sea level, combines all this rich history; due to its unique architecture made out of a volcanic stone known as “Sillar,” its downtown was declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 2000.

Peruvian cuisine has gained worldwide fame in the last 15 years, and an important contributor is the region of Arequipa due to its endemic flora and fauna, used by Peruvians for hundreds of years. These cooking techniques, improved over time, have been used to create delicious dishes such as “Rocoto Relleno,” “Pastel de Papa,” “Chupe de Camaron,” “Solterito de Queso,” and “Cauche de Queso.” These dishes can be enjoyed at traditional restaurants known as “Picanterias” or at gourmet-style restaurants. A visit to the marketplace of “San Camilo” will allow visitors to learn about the different types of vegetables, grains, and fruits used by local restaurants.

Only seven hours by car are needed to travel from the Pacific Coast to the high Andes of Arequipa. This excursion can offer beautiful beaches (Catarindo), lagoons with hundreds of endemic and migratory birds (Mejía), a desert with high sand dunes (La Joya), volcanoes and snowy peaks, rivers, and deep canyons where the Andean condor is the king. The region of Arequipa is a paradise for birdwatchers due to the large number of species found in Mejia and on the way to the Colca Canyon. Adventure travelers will be able to raft or kayak the Chili, Colca, or Majes rivers, mountain bike in Chiguata or Chilina, rock climb in the Cotahuasi Canyon or the outskirts of Arequipa, ride an ATV to the outskirts of the Pichu Picchu volcano, or hike to the bottom of the Colca Canyon.

While Arequipa allows travelers to get used to the altitude of higher-elevation cities, it most importantly provides its own unique experiences. After visiting the ancient Monastery of Santa Catalina de Siena, enjoy lunch at the Trattoria del Monasterio, Chicha, or Tanta, where the menus have been designed by the well-known chef Gastón Acurio. In the afternoon visit the districts of Yanahuara and Cayma to enjoy the views of the volcanoes that surround the city, the Chili River, and the countryside; and as the sun starts to set, go back downtown to enjoy a cup of Peruvian coffee at the restaurants of the Katari or Casa Andina Select hotels. At night consider a visit to Salamanto, where chef Paul Perea has created a unique menu based on local ingredients and a great selection of wines.

Back in 2007, the most popular route to access Machu Picchu on foot was the Classic Inca Trail. This trek was becoming so popular that the Peruvian government implemented new rules limiting the number of people allowed to access the trek on a daily basis. Thus, many travelers who wished to take the Classic Inca Trail were not able to do so because permits were sold out for the dates they had planned for this adventure.

This high demand for Inca Trail permits directly affected me that year. I was managing an Inca Trail tour operator and had been given the task of looking for an attractive alternative route to reach Machu Picchu on foot. After talking to several tour guides and local friends, I learned that Mountain Lodges of Peru had just built a set of lodges on a route known as the Salkantay Trek. Information about this trek was very limited at that time, but what I was told was good enough for me to jump on this route and start selling it. We created a site which quickly ranked in the first position on Google searches. As a result, customers started to book this route whenever the Inca Trail was sold out. In order to serve this high demand of travelers, we hired a tour operator that had been operating this route for a few years.

Since I was in charge of managing the operations and sales areas of this tour operator, I quickly selected a date to take part in a group excursion as a customer. This hike allowed me to learn first-hand the service our customers were getting. By the end of the trek, the decision was made to stop working with this Salkantay tour operator. The main reasons included a vehicle we deemed unsafe, an unqualified guide who spoke very little English (I ended-up translating everything he said), very basic meals which were insufficient for feeding the travelers (because of this, our staff had no food to eat), and tents that weren’t appropriate for this type of excursion. As a result, we immediately put together a well-recommended team to better serve our customers.

I have to mention that even though my hiking experience with that original Salkantay tour operator was not good, the hike itself was amazing and undeniably more breathtaking than the Inca Trail when it comes to landscapes. Nature in this trek changes dramatically in a matter of a few hours. The town of Mollepata is in Andean Valley with its rich land and abundant flora. As travelers get closer to the campsite of Soraypampa and the Salkantay Pass, vegetation will become scarcer with only the toughest plants in evidence. The snowy peaks of Humantay and Salkantay give birth to the lakes of the same name and provide astonishing views. The high forest covers the Andean Mountains in lush green. These mountains give life to hundreds of species of exotic flora and unique fauna.    

If you’re planning a trip to Cusco to experience the high mountains of the Andes, consider embarking on this route. You’ll be taking home lifelong memories. For 2019, MyPeruGuide.com and GoTrekPeru.com bring you a great offer for the 5-Day Salkantay Trek for USD 450.00 per person when two people book. Your guide will be a local professional graduated from a local university who is fluent in English while your cook has taken courses to properly handle your food and prepare local nutritious meals. Your tents will be waterproof and high-quality (Marmot, North Face, or similar).

The region of Cusco has been blessed with a breathtaking geography due to its proximity to the Amazon Rainforest and the Andean Mountains. The six mountain ranges distributed along the region provide an immense variety of landscapes, flora and fauna.

The highest and most impressive peak located among these 6 mountain ranges is the Ausangate, 20,945 feet above sea level (6,384 m.s.a.l.). This snowy peak, part of the Vilcanota Mountain range, is the highest among 469 glaciers. Some of these glaciers are no longer snow-covered all year round, allowing them to show themselves to the eyes of the world.

Close to the Ausangate peak is a multicolor mountain known by locals as Vinicunca and by travelers as the Rainbow Mountain or the Seven Color Mountain. Vinicunca is a very peculiar mountain due to its wide variety of ochre colors. From Vinicunca it is possible to enjoy a magnificent view of the red valley and the Ausangate peak as well as a large portion of the Vilcanota Mountain Range.

One of the most popular attractions of Cusco for the last few years, Vinicunca is 16,470 feet above sea level (5,020 m.a.s.l.). Air is thin at this high altitude; therefore, a visit to this beautiful place necessitates becoming acclimatized to the altitude to avoid the uncomfortable symptoms of altitude sickness. This natural attraction can be visited in one day, departing from the city of Cusco. There are three main routes to get there. The first two options require a stop at the town of Pitumarca, located two hours from Cusco. The first option, providing the closest view of the Ausangate peak, starts at the Andean village of Quesiuno for a total hike of about 6 to 7 hours. The second option, starting at the small village of Jarupa, takes about 5 to 6 hours to hike. The last option requires a stop at the town of Cusipata; the hike starts at the small village of Phulawasipata. This option offers the shortest hike of about 3 to 4 hours.      

If you are planning to visit Vinicunca, choose the type of service that best fits your needs and get ready for a moderate to strenuous hike. Regular shared tour departures include groups of 20 to 30 travelers for prices of USD 40.00 to 45.00 per person. A few tour providers offer smaller group departures for USD 10.00 to USD 20.00 more per person. In our case, we offer daily departures for USD 50.00 per person when 2 people book and groups are no bigger than 10 people.

For travelers who want to get to Machu Picchu on foot, the Classic Inca Trail is the most popular option. Travelers reach Machu Picchu after a four-day hike, sleeping three nights in tents. To hike the Inca Trail, each traveler must have a permit. Only 500 permits are released for sale every day, and only registered local tour operators can purchase them. Since these permits sell out quickly, it is necessary to make reservations at least six months in advance for the high season (mid-April to mid-October), and three months in advance for the low season. When permits are sold out but travelers still want to take part in a lengthy outdoor adventure, the Salkantay Trek is the best alternative. This is a truly amazing trek with spectacular surroundings ranging from a typical Andean valley to a lush high jungle, and on the way crossing the Salkantay Pass, located next to the snowy peak of the same name and its turquoise lake. This trek connects the Andean town of Mollepata with Machu Picchu by foot in four to seven days, and travelers should know that there are dozens of tour operators offering a wide variety of itineraries with different services, meal options, and accommodations ranging from high-end lodges to tents. Either of these two adventures provides an unforgettable experience.

For travelers who enjoy hiking but cannot spare four to seven days to get to Machu Picchu or are not willing to spend a night in a tent, the Short Inca Trail is their best bet. This hike takes travelers to Machu Picchu in about six to seven hours, as they pass through the beautiful Inca site of Wiñaywayna and walk a portion of the original Royal Inca Road. To access this trail, travelers need to have one of the 250 permits available per day, which only registered local tour operators can acquire. All tour operators offer this adventure as a two-day package including an overnight in Machu Picchu town (aka Aguas Calientes) and a guided tour of the Inca site on day two.

There is another option to get to Machu Picchu which is usually cheaper than all the options listed above, but it is not popular and major tour operators do not advertise it. In this option, known as the Machu Picchu Backdoor journey, travelers can visit the site and get back to Cusco in two or three days depending on the itinerary and activities included. For this adventure, travelers will need to reach the town of Santa Teresa, located about six hours from Cusco by car (private transportation). This is an incredible scenic route, but there are sections of the roads with several curves and deep drop-offs. Once in Santa Teresa, travelers can visit the natural hot springs of the town, take part in a zipline adventure at “Cola de Mono” or “Vertikal,” and/or visit a coffee plantation in Lucmabamba and then hike to the Llactapata site, from which they can observe Machu Picchu and the entire mountain range. Machu Picchu town can be reached on foot in three hours or by train in 45 minutes from the Santa Teresa train station. Accommodations in Santa Teresa are limited and there are very cheap hostels in town; therefore, it is better to spend the night at a campsite in a tent or get to Machu Picchu town the first day, where accommodation options are abundant.  

A visit to Machu Picchu is usually arranged with a tour operator or a local tour guide, and a standard tour includes a two-hour guided tour of most visited rooms and sections of the archaeological site. When booking this type of tour, most travelers miss the option of exploring other areas which offer amazing views of Machu Picchu and its surroundings. For instance, the Gate of the Sun, Huayna Picchu, and Machu Picchu Mountain are usually not included in the standard tours. All of them are reachable only on foot. The Gate of the Sun (aka Intipunku), probably the access door to the site during Incan times, can be reached in about an hour from the entrance gate; an extra ticket is not needed. Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain offer spectacular views of Machu Picchu, but an additional ticket is needed to access either of these summits. The Peruvian government releases only 400 and 800 entrance tickets respectively per day to access these two mountains. Travelers should know that visiting Machu Picchu in only two hours is insufficient, especially with so many additional opportunities for exploration nearby.

A visit to Machu Picchu can be very exciting, but the many questions that usually arise before a visit to this magical-seeming place can be overwhelming. For instance, travelers generally want to know what the best time of year to visit is, if altitude will be a problem, how to get there, and, most importantly, how to get the most out of their visit.

The area where Machu Picchu is located has a tropical mountain climate with a dry season and a wet season. During the wet season prices in Cusco and Machu Picchu are lower, but travelers need to be aware of the risks of traveling to Cusco during this season, which usually runs from mid-December to the end of March. During this season, Machu Picchu receives heavy rain, sometimes raining all day long, overall from mid-January to mid-March. This weather can cause mud slides or river overflows, which determine the closure of the railroad to Machu Picchu, overall during the month of February. (This is one reason the Inca Trail is closed during this month each year.) From May to August, travelers will experience little to no rain at Machu Picchu and the surrounding areas, but weather in the region of Cusco will be cold, with below-freezing conditions at night in areas above 11,500 feet above sea level (3,500 m.a.s.l.). During the months of April and September through November, rain is possible, depending pretty much on luck. During these months of the year and the wet season, temperatures are three to five Celsius degrees higher when compared to the dry season.

Machu Picchu is located at 7,970 feet above sea level (2,430 m.a.s.l.). Usually altitude sickness is not an issue at this elevation; however, all travelers will first arrive in the city of Cusco, where the risk of getting altitude sickness increases due to its high elevation. Travelers can reduce this risk by taking medicine; by avoiding alcoholic drinks, heavy meals, and strenuous physical activity; by drinking plenty of fluids; and by taking it easy the first day. It is uncommon to get altitude sickness the second day in Cusco, but if travelers experience a pounding headache with nausea, they should look for lower elevation and/or stop physical activity and take a nap to get better. (Medical advice should be requested in case symptoms do not improve.) Many hotels in Cusco offer oxygen tanks to help with the symptoms, and some of them provide oxygenated rooms to help during a traveler’s stay in the city of Cusco.

Machu Picchu is located in the Vilcanota Mountain Range at the top of the Machu Picchu Mountain, with the Urubamba River running around it. The Inca people built this world wonder in a remote area, reachable today only by train or on foot. For train travel, there are two companies to choose from, Peru Rail and Inca Rail. Peru Rail offers the Expedition, Vistadome, and Hiram Bingham services while Inca Rail offers the Voyager, 360°, and First Class services. The most economical options are the Expedition and Voyager services, departing from the Andean town of Ollantaytambo, while the most expensive ones are the Hiram Bingham and First Class, departing from Poroy and Cusco, respectively.

Read Part II by clicking on this link.

South of Lima is the region of Ica, an arid land with a mysterious history. Here the long-head people of Paracas developed an ancient civilization, creating hundreds of Nasca Lines more than 1500 years ago. In this beautiful land travelers can find ancient archaeological sites, interesting museums, colonial vineyards, sand dunes with oases, exciting outdoor adventures, and an exquisite coastline, habitat for a wide array of wildlife.

This region has four popular destinations which are heavily visited by Peruvians during the summer months (mid-December to Mid-March) and long holiday weekends. During the rest of the year, all these areas are fairly quiet and quite relaxing with sunny days almost all year round. These destinations offer different attractions and experiences, which are listed below.

In the town of Chincha travelers will find history, ancient sites, great food, and a large Afro-Peruvian community who were able to syncretize Catholicism with African and Andean customs and beliefs. This town boasts three great places to visit: the San Jose Colonial Farm House, a boutique-style hotel with a well-known restaurant and eighteenth century colonial ambience; the Centinela archaeological site, built by the Chincha people more than 600 years ago; and the district of “El Carmen,” where travelers can experience the customs, cuisine, and art of the Afro-Peruvian community.

In the province of Pisco, the Ballestas Islands and the Paracas Natural Reserve are the most popular destinations. A visit to the islands will allow travelers to observe penguins, sea lions, and several species of endemic birds. Travelers can also embark on an ATV tour to visit the Reserve of Paracas, where they will enjoy its beautiful bay and coastline as well as the Julio C. Tello Museum to learn about the reserve’s ecosystem and the ancient Peruvians who ruled in this area about 2000 years ago. With luck they will also observe South American Altiplano flamingo and/or Chilean flamingo. In Paracas travelers will find a wide range of accommodations. Here they can relax while enjoying the landscape with its amazing sunsets. East of Paracas, Tambo Colorado stands out as one of the most important Inca sites in the area. It’s believed this colorfully walled town, built between the Andes and the coast, was a strategic administrative site.

Another important destination is the city of Ica, located right next to the desert. Here never-ending sand dunes can be visited on one of the sand boogie tours available in the Huacachina Oasis. Sunsets at the dunes are a memorable experience. Travelers can also practice sand boarding at the oasis and spend the night there, but this site offers limited accommodation options. This city is also popular for its vineyards, where travelers can try local wines and the national drink of Peru, known as Pisco, which is also made from grapes. The most popular vineyards in the area are Tacama and Queirolo, where travelers can tour, sample the beverages, and eat lunch at a great location. At Queirolo they can even spend a night. History lovers will enjoy the Regional Museum of Ica, a small museum with a great collection of artifacts of the civilizations which inhabited the area, starting with the Paracas people. The museum also has well-preserved mummies on display.

The last destination on this list is known all around the world due to its massive ground drawings of animals as well as humanoid and geometrical figures. Three of these drawings (the tree, the hands, and a damaged geometrical figure) can be seen from a watchtower; however, a flight in a Cessna plane over the area provides travelers with an incomparable experience, allowing them to observe the most popular drawings. The same people who made the Nasca Lines more than 1500 years ago also built underground channels to obtain water from the subsoil to mass produce crops as well as an important citadel with impressive ceremonial pyramids. Travelers can take a sand boogie tour to visit the citadel as well as the tallest sand dune in the world, “Cerro Blanco.” At the main street of the town of Nasca, travelers will find several restaurants offering delicious meals, such as the Mamashana Restaurant, which offers regional and Peruvian dishes. In town travelers will find a large variety of lodges, tourist hotels, and boutique-style hotels, but none which would be considered luxurious.

Learning a new language is a highly rewarding experience, but it can also be a challenging task. The process of mastering a new language really isn’t complete unless the culture and customs indigenous to the country of this language are explored. As a result, in the US and other English-speaking countries, college-level Spanish classes usually include in their curricula the relationships between perspectives, practices, and products of the Spanish culture.

After taking two or three semesters of Spanish classes, many college students realize that if the goal is to become fluent in Spanish, they need to immerse themselves in a Spanish-speaking country. The selection of a country is usually based on where the best Spanish is spoken and what the cost of the trip will be. Phonemically speaking the options to learn Spanish are reduced to Spain, Mexico, Colombia, and Peru. Out of these four, Peru is the best choice because of its rich history and unique customs as well as the fact that it is one of the least expensive choices.

In Peru travelers can complement their language learning with an understanding of the country’s rich history enriched by the syncretism of the Inca and the Spanish cultures. The Inca ruled at the height of Peru’s history, expanding their empire, as well as their language and religious beliefs, across a large portion of South America. When the Spaniards conquered the Incan Empire in 1532 and began to impose Spanish and Catholicism on the natives, they needed to make use of some of the existing Incan beliefs and customs in order to make the adaptation more palatable, thus creating a culture unique to Peru. The Spanish version of the language implemented in Peru is known as “Castellano,” which is a form of Spanish spoken in the region of Castilla, Spain. Nowadays “Castellano” is taught in Peruvian schools and also to travelers willing to learn Spanish in Peru.

The best Peruvian cities in which to learn Spanish are Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa. While all three provide unique experiences, Arequipa and Cusco do so for less money since accommodations and school options are cheaper here than in Lima, and there are several options to combine the learning experience with a job volunteering in low-income schools or Andean communities.

Once the city has been chosen, travelers must decide where to live and study, and what activities they should engage in to complement their stay. An excellent option is to stay with a local family who includes meals in the cost of their accommodations since this allows the traveler not only to spend time with the host family during meals but also to practice what is learned in the classroom. Other low-budget accommodation options are to rent a small apartment or book a youth hostel, but with these the opportunities to practice the language will be at a minimum.

Next, travelers will need to choose a Spanish school, ideally one that provides a well-planned program based on the period of time they intend to stay in Peru. This program should be complemented by daily life activities such as going to a marketplace, a restaurant, a store, a guided tour in Spanish, etc. Some popular schools are Peruwayna in Lima, San Blas Spanish School in Cusco, and Llama Education in Arequipa. To achieve a full experience of Peru, travelers must get in touch with the locals. The best way to do this is by looking for a school which engages its students in a volunteer activity; the most popular and rewarding one is helping in a low-income school with young children who are eager to learn and will help travelers improve their language skills.

Machu Picchu Town is also known as Aguas Calientes. This is a very small town originally settled in 1901 by a few farmers and it was only accessible by foot. The railroad from Cusco to Machu Picchu was first built in the 1920’s. Nowadays, the railroad covers a total area of 110 kilometers. In order to visit Machu Picchu by train, it is necessary to stop at this town because it is the closest town to Machu Picchu and the train station is located here.  The train station is located next to the marketplace and is less than a 5 minutes’ walk from the bus stop.

Machu Picchu Town is located at the base of the Machu Picchu and Putucusi mountains, and the Vilcanota and Santa Teresa Rivers pass next to town. Tourism is the main activity in town and the variety of hotels and restaurants range from luxury hotels and restaurants to backpacker lodges. Prices at this town can be double that of the prices in Cusco. If you would like to spend a night in town, please make sure you book in advance because decent and safe accommodation is limited. In town, you will find several internet cafes, minimarkets, handcraft stores, and restaurants. ATM’s are available in town at a few places.

Once you get to Machu Picchu Town, you might take a bus to reach the ruins of Machu Picchu or hike up to Machu Picchu (About 1 hour and 30 minutes will be needed for this hike on average.) The entrance fee to Machu Picchu and bus tickets should be purchased in Cusco as well as train tickets (during the high season, you should purchase your train tickets well in advance). For more information about the ruins of Machu Picchu visit MyPeruGuide.com.

If you have a day or more to spend here, you might hike up to Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountains. Both of them offer magnificent views of Machu Picchu as well as a lot of adventure. If you would like to hike Huayna Picchu, you will need to have an entrance ticket for Machu Picchu that includes Huayna Picchu for one of the two entrance times (only 200 people are allowed to sign up for each entrance time). If you would like to go for Machu Picchu Mountain, you will also need to get an entrance ticket to Machu Picchu that includes Machu Picchu Picchu. Both hikes include some climbing with deep cliffs. If you suffer from vertigo, please do not hike any of these treks (the Gate of the Sun would be better for you and several tour operators offer tours will take you there).

At Machu Picchu town, the Inkaterra hotel has a beautiful orchid garden which you should try to visit. The Museum of Machu Picchu is also a recommended place to visit and the hot springs of town are very popular for locals and tourists as well. There is also a butterfly farm where travelers will be able to observe 300 species of butterflies and the flora needed to keep them alive.

By Renato Romero - Founder of My Peru Guide LLC