#spockspeak

My friends, @spockspeak, @cousincecily, and I debuted our Schuyler Sisters cosplays in April of 2016.  It was a labor of love that we undertook primarily because Angelica was a dream build for @spockspeak. (post)

For photos, see Spockspeaks cosplay section on Angelica Schuyler I did a lot of research on historical garments, and tried to gather as much information as I could from what was available at the time (a lot of our reference photos were early production shots).  We decided to do a blend of historical and theatrical. The Underpinnings were critical to getting the right look and a lot of fun too.   Favorite Research sources:   American Duchess: Late 18th C Skirt Supports - Bumpad, Puffer and Petticoat. CoutureMayah: 18th C Underwear - Shift, Bumpads, puffer, petti and more

Shortly after we finished our build, American Duchess put out two Simplicity patterns which will help with most of the pieces cosplayers need (Also good for Outlander, Black Sails etc).   Simplicity 8162 18th C Undergarments - Shift, stays, Bumpad Simplicity 8161 18th C Costume - Petticoat, gown, bodice 

For our Schuyler Sister gowns we each had: 1. Shift 2. Corset (Stays would have been correct, but we all had corsets, and not all of us had time to make stays - We fixed the shape in the boned bodice construction) 3. Pockets 4. Bumpad 5. Puffer 6. Petticoat

Pockets!  Super simple project.  Deep pockets that tie around the waist under your skirts.  Deep enough to hold most everything you’ll need.  Just remember to leave those side openings in your skirts so you can get to them!

The Bumpad pillow helps hold the skirts out and away from the hips and backside, and is a softer, fuller look than a bum roll or pocket hoops could achieve.  It’s also pretty comfortable to sit in.  ;)

Next is the Puffer.  This is a shorter, quilted petticoat and really makes a difference in the skirt support.  It goes over the Bumpad, but before your petticoat.  I used 1.5 yards of pre-quilted material bought from Joanns.  Cut it in half, seamed it up the sides, leaving those sides open so I could reach my pockets.  Then enclosed the edges in bias binding and ran ties through it.  Simple serge or hem finishes the bottom.  Note, I left the front section unpleated and mostly flat so I wouldn’t have that extra bulk on my belly, leave the fullness for the hips and back!

Finally, the Petticoat.  4-5 yards gathered onto a front and back waistband.  The back band ties to the front, the front band ties to the back, sides are open.  Instructions are on the American Duchess website, or you can use her Simplicity pattern. I’ve got 2″ horsehair in the hem of the petticoat to help with the body.  The ruffle is mounted on top of the skirt, hiding that hem, and yes I ran an Eliza blue ribbon through it just because I could.

To build all of the Schuyler Sister’s bodices, @spockspeak, @cousincecily and I all used a modified version of Simplicity 4092, but used my construction method instead of the pattern instructions.  Each of us had slightly different closure methods because each bodice has different lines.  This was mine. For photos, see Spockspeak’s blog section on Angelica Schuyler.

First, comes the mockup, fitted over my corset.  I know I’m not wearing period correct stays, but we didn’t have time for everyone to construct stays and we all had corsets.  I focused on the sides and back of the mockup, and adjusted the armscye to allow a better range of motion (Work!!). 

Once happy with the basic fit, then come the layers, 3-4 layers depending on the piece.  We wanted the smooth, boned look of the costume, but we didn’t want the boning to show.   The Stomacher front piece, with the most boning has: 1.  Lining 2.  Canvas/Duck/Coutil 3.  Flannel 4.  Fashion Fabric

The body of the bodice is three layers: 1.  Lining 2.  Flannel 3.  Fashion Fabric.  Separate boning channels were added to seam allowances later in construction. 

The front section is the most heavily boned, and the number of bones required depends on your measurements.  I used flat steel bones throughout the bodice.  You can see the seam allowances marked as well as my stitch guides for channels, down center front as well as the angled sides. 

Once the Center Front was taken care of, I constructed the rest of the bodice body in two pieces.  The Fashion Fabric layer was stitched and ironed.  I flatlined the flannel with the lining, stitched that layer together, pressed all the seams, then added additional boning channels for garment support.  Finally, those two completed layers were stacked, the center front piece attached, and the whole bodice was finished off with a bias binding made of the Fashion Fabric.   Why did I do it this way?  I felt by having the Fashion Fabric as a separate layer, the seams would iron extra flat and wouldn’t show the bulk of the layers. Why flannel? That soft texture hides the boning lines underneath and gives the thin taffeta something smooth to rest on.  

Using bias binding to finish the edges is a great way to finish bodices and you can find many extant examples in historical garments.  Stitch as normal with your 1/2″ or 5/8″ seam allowance, clip/trim/grade as needed then turn everything inside, press and hand stitch the binding down.  You have a finished edge and still have access to your seams if you need to adjust anything down the line.

Sleeves are constructed of a Fashion and Lining layer. I built the sleeve flounce since I couldn’t find trim wide enough on it’s own.  The covered buttons are a Flannel and Fashion layer, so that the smooth texture matches the rest of the bodice, mock mounted on the front.  I didn’t actually put button holes in that bodice. The whole bodice closes with a lot of hooks and eyes at side front.

How did i not know u ran texts from the avengers

Same bb. I am an anxiety monster when I'm around drunk people it's bad

you better show up then loser we can make that happen

It’s from Weta Workshop! I picked it up at a convention where they were at, but they do ship internationally as well and sell in USD. It’s fantastic quality, it’s the parchment paper, and the detail is superb. I’m wanting to pick up Thorin’s Map as well, because it’s just as goo.

https://www.wetanz.com/parchment-map-of-middle-earth/