#mask tutorial

Step 0: Goggles!

While trying to decide what cosplay to do, I came across goggles like these-

in a generic party store, and I knew they would be perfect eyes for Manfred, so they inspired the costume and I built the mask around them. (The goggles completely disassembled so I was able to use every part.)

Step 1: The mask base.

I used this tutorial and free pdf template to make a base mask out of cardboard. I used cereal boxes. Then I did some ol' trial and error to adjust the shape into more skull like features. (Important*** Do Fit checks regularly to make sure the skull fits your head well, and the front and back fit together well. Do this throughout the entire process!)

Adjustments I made; cutting out eyes, nose, and cutting off a jaw shape; and adding some length onto the front part of the mask so it came further back on my head, which I did by just extending the template a few inches and trying it.

Note: At this point I figured out I needed to see out of the mask, so I cut the eyes wider by moving the goggle lenses further to the sides and leaving a crescent shape along the nose bridge for me to look through.

Step 2: Make it strong.

I cut the tape holding the draft mask together and used it as a new template to cut out a version in thicker, sturdier cardboard. Then, I used a ton of tape and hot glue to put the mask together and make it sturdy. I added a few little strips of cardboard on the inside as 'cross beams' across the major seams to reinforce it.

Note: I made a thicker version of the back of the mask as well, but the shape just wasn't sitting as nice, so I abandoned it and made the cereal box version my good version simply by reinforcing it a bit more.

Step 3: Shape!

I took plain printer paper, ripped it into random pieces, and rolled and crumpled it. Then I used tape (at first to test placement) and hot glue to attach the paper pieces to the mask to build up dimension. Using skull references is important here. I did not add bulk to the back of the skull.

I think after this picture I did add more to the chin, cheeks, and brows to fix the proportions, but just play around until it's a shape you like. (And yes, I did all those teeth individually, which is why there's an odd number lol)

At this point I glued the goggle sockets in place (having added some extra cardboard to make the connection sturdy and so the eyes didn't point sideways. I made sure to check the sight lines to ensure I left enough of a gap to see, as well as space to get the gems into the sockets at the end.

Step 4: Paper Mache

I covered both pieces of the mask in a couple layers of paper mache. I didn't use anything special, just newsprint style paper and a generic paper mache recipe I got online (that used wood glue instead of white glue because I had a bunch and it's apparently sturdier? idk).

I used a toothpick to help force the paper mache into the crevices of the teeth and define those lines. Then I lightly sanded any bumpy bits as well as giving the goggle sockets a light sand so the paint will stick to them better.

(Check the fits of the pieces here. The paper mache can warp the cardboard a little due to moisture.)

Step 5: Paint!

I painted both pieces of the mask in a bone-white color (white mixed with just a little brown and/or yellow). I did one overall coat, and then since I found it still a little too stark white did another full coat in a slighter darker off-white. Importantly, I did not put this second coat on the teeth to leave them whiter, as most references show.

After it dried I painted the goggles brown. Then I did detailing. I used a mixture of browns in layers to stipple and dab in shadows and contour on the skull (again, references are good tools). I tried a sponge but ended up using a raggedy old paint brush to get some good texture.

I added the darker color into the creases of the teeth and added some green splotches to the goggles to show oxidization of metal.

Later on, I went back in for a second coat to make the contouring darker and more contrasting to stand out better in pictures. (A reminder of the importance of stepping back and looking at a distance. Also take pictures so you know what it will look like when others photo it.)

Materials Used:

Cardboard.

Craft foam.

Paper mache paste (flour + water).

Paper towels (1 - 2 rolls, plain white, texture optional).

Black acrylic paint.

Black fabric (optional).

White cardstock (or standard paper)

Tulle ribbon (or any see-through mesh).

White cord for straps.

Hot glue.

Alright, let’s do this:

1) Making the base! Start by cutting out the base of your mask from cardboard or craft foam (I personally used cardboard for the cat mask, and craft foam for the toad mask to get a rounder shape). For both masks, I cut out a square roughly 8-3/8″ inches wide, and 8-1/8″ inches tall.

Cat Mask:

Make relief cuts across the bottom edge (I cut 7 tabs, with the first and last being slightly wider than the central ones). Starting with the central tabs, overlap them ever so slightly to create the curvature you want, and then secure them in place with hot glue.

Bend the first and last tabs inwards all the way until their sides touch the inner wall of your mask; glue, and trim off the excess corners. Sketch out how you want the face to look, then cut out the eye and mouth holes. Make two triangular cardboard pieces for the ears, and glue them just behind the top edge of the mask.

Toad Mask:

Make relief cuts across the top edge and bottom half. (I cut 5 on top, the end tabs being half the size of the central 3. Then 6 across the bottom, the central tabs half the size of the end tabs). Starting with the central tabs, overlap them ever so slightly to create the curvature you want, and then secure them in place with tape (optional) before permanently securing them with hot glue. Trim off the excess corners to create a rounded form. Cut out the eye holes. If you accidentally cut too much, like I did, you can fill it back in with hot glue lol.

2) Paper Mache! Mix up some paper mache paste (1 part flour, 2 parts water - no boiling necessary) and rather than just paper, I’ve slathered on sheets of paper towel!** Lay down a nice even coat to cover all of your cardboard/foam base. If it gets unbearably soggy, allow it to dry between layers. (I recommend you put something under the center of the mask to prop it up as it dries so that it retains it’s shape and doesn’t cave in/harden flat. I also poked some wire through the sides of the toad mask to help keep it cinched in.) 

**Keep in mind that if the paper towel has a textured pattern on it, your mask will ultimately... also have that texture on it. Which, depending on the pattern, can end up looking really cool! My toad mask ended up with a crosshatch type texture and I really love it in retrospect ahaha.

To create the teeth: take strips of paper towel and roll them into thin logs. Lay them across your mask as pictured ^ try to taper the ends if you can. Take longer strips of towel, rolling them up the same way, and create a border around the entire mouth, also covering the ends of the teeth. Lay flat strips of towel over the border you just created to blend it into the rest of the mask. Create a rolled border this way around the eyes as well.

3) Painting! Once your masks are dry, punch holes for your straps to be added through later - then it’s time to prime, paint, and seal! I went over my masks a few times with RUST-OLEUM 2X Ultra Cover paint+primer in white (but you can use whatever to prime/create a clean white foundation). Paint on all your details in black, and then give it a good spray seal! ...optional, but recommended. I used a RUST-OLEUM brand sealant spray.

4) Eyes, lining, and straps! 

Lets start with the cat mask →

Use a black material to cover behind your eye and mouth holes. I used some black pleather fabric that had a soft lining fused under it, but you could use anything here- even more cardboard/craft foam painted black. Secure with hot glue. Cut out your actual eye holes for seeing, then glue in your see-through mesh of choice behind them (I used tulle ribbon). Attach your straps, and the cat mask is finished! 

Onto the toad mask →

Full credit to noxneavez for these “moving” eyes! I followed their lovely tutorial, but I’ll re-explain how I went about it: on cardstock (preferably), sketch out a pair of eyes roughly the same size as the holes in the mask. Cut around them, leaving about 3/4″ an inch of extra space. From the bottom, cut a line up to the pupil, and then cut the entire pupil out, to the size that you desire. Fold the bottom flaps over each other to create a slight dome effect, and secure it with hot glue. Cut off any excess space around the paper eye you’re created and glue it behind the eye holes in your mask. *Make sure they’re positioned correctly before gluing them in! With the mask facing towards you, you want the pupils to be looking directly at you.*

Finally, glue some mesh behind the eyes, add a soft lining (if you want to), attach your straps, and now: both masks are complete! Bravo! I hope this was helpful!

step 1: cut out your fabric. i used two distinct fabrics so i don’t have to think about which is the printed/graphic side when wearing the mask. (there’s no need to have a “right” side, so use the same fabric if you want, it’s all good). 

step 2: measure and cut your elastic

step 3: place your fabrics front/right/graphic sides together, and pin the elastic along the short edges, sandwiching it between the two fabrics (you’ll pin one end to the top corner, and then pin the other end to the bottom corner, leaving the rest unpinned.) MAKE SURE THE ELASTIC DOESN’T TWIST ON ITSELF AND IS LAYING FLAT. THIS IS V. IMPORTANT. ASK ME HOW I KNOW.)

step 4: then pin around the sides, leaving a 2-3″ gap at the center top. i used like... seven pins total, you’re not going for pinner of the year award here or anything. it’ll also look distorted when you’re done pinning because of the elastic pulling at the corners, but when you sew it together, it’ll be fine. 

step 5: thread your needle, doubling your thread and tying at the end. starting on one side of the gap, about 1/4″ down from the edge of the fabric, start sewing. you’ll be using just a running/straight stitch. you can use a running back-stitch if you want to be really fancy, but you don’t have to. for faster sewing, you can do what i did in the photo below, which is basically just stitching 4-5 stitches without pulling the needle all the way through.  make sure you catch both pieces of fabric.

when you get to the elastic in each corner, stitch back and forth a few times to secure the elastic into place. it gets a lot of abuse, don’t skimp. 

make sure you don’t sew through the unpinned elastic and that it stays pushed toward the middle of the fabric sandwich. 

keep sewing until you get to the other side of the gap. knot off the thread, trim. 

your stitching will absolutely look like a march of drunken ants but it’s fine. you can also use a pencil to mark a straight line if you want a guide, which will wash off the first time you chuck it in the laundry. 

step 6: turn the mask right-sides-out by reaching into the gap, grabbing the right side of the fabric, and pulling through. 

step 7: sewing closed the opening. this is optional; you can leave it open for a filter, if you want. if not, use an invisible stitch or just a straight stitch to close it. 

7a: for the invisible stitch, put your needle through one side of the fabric, starting on the INSIDE of the mask. 

7b: put your needle through the OTHER side of the fabric, sewing through the fold. then back to the side you started on. by sewing inside the hem, you won’t see visible stitching on the outside. 

closed mask below. 

step 8: pleat the short sides and pin in place. 3 pleats on each side, approximately 1/4-1/2″ wide. you can kind of just eyeball it. make sure they’re roughly even. 

step 9: sew down the short sides, about 1/4″ in. i used a running backstitch (link to tutorial) for extra durability. make sure you get both sides of the pleats sewn down. knot thread, trim. 

congratulations, you made a mask!

bonus steps, if you want them: press the pleats in place for a fancy finished look. you can also sew around the whole of the outside edge, about 1/8″ away from the edge of the mask. 

you can ABSOLUTELY make this with a sewing machine. steps are the same, it just cuts the time down to like 10-15 minutes.