RWTH Aachen Week 9: Monschau and Ordensburg Vogelsang
1 - Monschau We took the bus to Monschau, a little over an hour's ride away. Monschau is a small historic town of around 12,000 people nestled deep in the Eifel hills near the Belgian border, one of the best preserved medieval towns in all of Germany. It sits in a narrow valley carved by the Rur river, which gives the whole town its distinctive compact and intimate character. The town is famous for its half timbered houses, its mustard production, and its glassmaking heritage, and it draws visitors from across Europe precisely because it looks like somewhere time forgot.
When we first got off the bus and walked towards the old town, I was completely amazed by the view. It is stunning, straight out of a fairytale, and photos simply cannot capture the beauty of this village. What I love most about the town is the river running right through it with all the bridges built over it. It is really compact but never feels crowded, and almost every building is genuinely historical. Nearly every house has a small "Denkmal" plate on the wall indicating it is a protected historic building. I also saw a house built in 1666 where people still live today, and another wooden house that has to be supported by huge wooden scaffolding on one side because it is visibly tilting.
There is also the famous Rotes Haus, a grand 18th century merchant's mansion that once belonged to the Scheibler family, one of the wealthiest cloth manufacturing dynasties in the region. It now operates as a museum preserving the original furnishings, textiles, and living quarters of the family across multiple floors, giving a remarkably intact picture of prosperous bourgeois life in the 1700s. Our group was not particularly interested so we did not go inside, but we did visit the Evangelische Stadtkirche Monschau, where there is a big red book for visitors to leave comments. I was really pleasantly surprised to find lots of Japanese entries, including one written just that same day, shortly before I arrived. I left a kind comment in both German and Cantonese. Notably, there are at least a dozen churches and altars scattered throughout Monschau and we came across many of them, most dedicated to Maria, mother of Jesus. One small chapel we found while climbing up towards the castle was Kapelle Ave Maria, built in 1911, with walls lined entirely with carved plates bearing thank you messages from worshippers. The earliest one I found dated to 1912, and the collection continued through both World Wars all the way to the most recent one from 2012.
Speaking of the wars, we also discovered a Denkmal on our way up to the castle, commemorating all the fallen soldiers from Monschau across both World Wars, with every victim's name inscribed on a plate. The castle itself is fairly small but retains an almost fully intact ring of walls and a decent sized tower, though they are not open to the public. Burg Monschau, as it is known, dates back to the 13th century and served for centuries as the seat of the Counts of Jülich, who controlled this strategically important valley crossing. It later passed through various hands and was partially dismantled over the centuries, leaving the atmospheric ruins that stand today. We explored the sections that are partially accessible. It is really cold and dark inside. There were another two chapels on the way up as well. Afterwards we hiked back down and crossed to the hill opposite the castle where there are smaller ruins of another fortification, with information panels telling the broader history of Monschau.
Before leaving we walked to the Historische Senfmühle Monschau, a historic mustard producing mill that is still operating today, using locally grown ingredients to produce a wide variety of mustard sauce flavours. My favourite was the classic honey mustard with poppy seed, and I bought a big jar to take back. Sadly the mill itself is only open by guided tour, so we just walked around the shop and browsed the hundreds of different flavours of wines, sauces, juices, and even mustard chocolates locally produced in Monschau and the surrounding area. I fell asleep on the bus home.
I immediately used the honey mustard poppy seed sauce to top off my dinner. Its recommended to eat with Salmon, which I just happen to cook that day.
2 - Ordensburg Vogelsang
Ordensburg Vogelsang was one of four elite ideological training schools established by the Nazi regime to groom the next generation of NS party leadership, and it is today the largest surviving architectural relic from the National Socialist era. Built from 1934 onwards on a dramatic hillside overlooking the Urftsee reservoir in the Eifel, the complex was designed to be monumental and imposing, a physical expression of Nazi ambitions rendered in stone. It functioned as a brainwashing school where selected teenagers would be sent to undergo rigorous physical and ideological training, with the goal of producing completely obedient, fanatical party loyalists ready to fill prominent NS positions after graduation. Admission was not based on academic merit or skill but purely on demonstrated loyalty to the party and the Führer. A number of its graduates were immediately drafted into the Second World War and deployed to oversee occupied territories in Eastern Europe, and several were subsequently convicted of war crimes after Germany's defeat.
This is probably one of the most in depth museums covering the political and educational dimensions of Nazi Germany that I have ever visited, with a strong focus on the pre war period that sets it apart from most other museums on the subject. There is an enormous amount of factual information and authentic artefacts on display that I have not seen elsewhere. I spent at least two hours inside and that was at a genuinely rushed pace. I also did not have time to explore the outside of the complex, which extends all the way down the hillside with many other structures still standing. It is also very quiet out there and honestly quite unsettling. It is a fairly eerie place and I did not particularly want to walk around alone. I would strongly recommend visiting if you want to understand how authoritarian regimes construct and propagate radical ideology, because I learned a great deal that I had not encountered before. One last thing worth noting: although the natural scenery surrounding the site is genuinely beautiful, the complex itself is deeply ugly, built entirely from brown and grey stone in relentlessly square and rectangular forms with almost no aesthetic grace to speak of. Which, in a strange way, feels fitting.
the museum also have a panoramic restaurant, which has great food for it's price, the portion is so big its enough to feed 2 people, for just 14.9 Euros its definitely worth it.
Next week will be even busier as I need to submit the final symposium poster and report.
Yuqi SUN
Department of Robotics, Robotics
Department of Computer Science and Engineering, Computer Science
Engineering - IPE: Undergraduate Research Program at RWTH Aachen in Aachen, Germany










