#gear post

KEYBOARDS

Casio WK-3500 Usage: Electric Piano, various synth sounds

Hardly what one would call a “classic synth”, I feel like Casio keyboards get overlooked quite a bit. The grand piano sound isn’t ultra spectacular, but it has some very usable Rhodes sounds, and a lot of other really nice stuff. The built-in drawbar mode is particularly awesome!

Hammond XB-2 Usage: Well...organ

This, on the other hand, is very much a classic. Weighs a ton and sounds amazing! Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to secure an affordable Leslie speaker for it, so that’s been left to software simulation. Taichi Kokubun actually (used to?) own and play one of these, which may have been a factor in me seeking one of these out initially >_>

SYNTHESIZERS

Proteus/1 / Proteus VX Usage: Grand piano, various synths

Another classic, I absolutely adore the original Proteus trio of synths. The original model gets far more use in my video game work than in my covers and original recordings, but the software-based VX (a much later line) is slowly becoming my almost exclusive go-to for digital grand piano sounds.

Roland SC-88p / Roland PC-200 MK II Usage: So many things!

I positively adore SoundCanvas. The SC-88p is one of those things you might not physically recognize, but have definitely heard due to its use in innumerable video games over the last two decades. It’s drums are everywhere. This thing has always been kind of a go-to for Japanese game composers and karaoke machines (lol), but I find that despite being based on the same tech that gave you your soundcard’s built-in MIDI sounds, this sucker has some incredibly usable sounds, and it sees just as much use in my non-gaming music. The PC-200, despite being in rough cosmetic shape, is a simple, solid and lightweight MIDI controller I use almost exclusively to drive this. The pitch/mod wheel, however, is really unusual (though maybe not for the time?) and kind of weird to use at first.

CHIPTUNE

Game Boy DMG-01 (x2) Usage: chip sounds, percussion

Some things to start with: firstly, unless it's a picture I took of a product I own and love, I will not be posting to this blog about actual products because I currently am not affiliated with anyone or have affiliate links, nor do I plan to try and get rights to images I don’t own. If this changes in the future, I will be sure to update my info and let you guys know. Secondly, just so we don't get confused, leash or lead mean generally the same thing, they both refer to a long piece of material that you attach to a dog in order to keep it from straying. 

So first off is your standard flat leash, a six foot nylon(or other strong material) leash that is typically 1/2-2in in width. It's usually your cheapest option at the dog store, though you can splurge on really expensive pretty ones. These get you from point a to point b. They also come in four foot leads, which are useful for keeping your companion closer to you without having to wrap up the excess. These types of leashes are great when you’re just starting out or need something without frills. I definitely recommend having one or two of these hanging around your house; personally I like to use them when we’re going out for a fun trip or walk rather than work. A good basic leash will be strong enough to hold your dog and not break when they pull. For example, while a 1in lead may be too heavy for a toy breed like chihuahua, it may not stand up to the strength of a great dane. Typically, for most medium to large dogs a 1in width is enough. (For reference, the pineapple leash is a pretty one I haven’d used yet. The red and white on is a leash I bought for Harley when she was a baby. Its obviously well loved.)

My personal favorite type of leash is the waist or hands free style leash. These leashes usually have an adjustable portion that you can either wrap around your waist or body, leaving your hands free to do other things. I use these when I am out and about with Athena because it makes doing my errands easier. The drawback to these kinds of leashes is that they take some time to get used to. Rather than being able to go in many directions, these leashes often have a very short radius for your dog to walk around with. This means that you have to get used to working as a team while walking together because otherwise you may end up tangled up on the floor. A dog needs to understand directional cues from you in order to successfully work with one of these leads. This doesn’t mean you have to train them in things like “right” or “left’; they just need to be able to follow your directions and read your body to see where you plan to go. With some practice you will be able to use these in no time.

Leather leashes are long favored by the training community. They’re extremely durable when well taken care of; one of the pet parents I took a class with had one from her childhood that she used to train her first dog with. When you buy one new, it will take some time to break in, meaning that it may be very stiff or have some edges that can leave marks on your hands if you have a dog who likes to pull.  Leather is also a strong material, it will stand up to strong pullers unlike other types of leashes. I personally have never had the money to invest in a leather leash, though I have heard the exaltations of its proponents. 

Flexi leads/retractable leashes are my least favorite type of leash. Now, I am going to admit I am a little biased towards these, because oftentimes when I’ve encountered these in the wild they are attached to owners who don't control their dogs or read canine body language well. Retractable leashes have a hard plastic handle, which contains a cord that extends or retracts automatically based on tension from the dog. They often can be locked at a certain length. Pros of retractable leashes include that the plastic handle is often easier for people who have issues with gripping things and they allow the dog a greater range of freedom in the distance they can go. The leash cord itself is typically lightweight, making them easier to use with smaller breeds. One of the biggest considerations when choosing this type of leash is making sure that it is rated for your dog's full grown weight, otherwise you run the risk of it snapping and losing your dog. Personally, I don’t like taking that kind of risk with my dogs.. Another concern with this type of leash is that it doesn’t allow the handler nuanced control of their dog. This is a concern because whether or not that dog is well behaved, other dogs may not be and being able to rush into another dogs space can turn very bad very fast depending on how the other dog reacts.

Traffic leads are short leashes under four feet, usually around two or three. These leashes are short and sweet, and mean that you have your dog up and close to you all the time, which can be especially useful in urban environments. Traffic leads are often used by service dog handlers, because their short length means they can drop the lead on top of the dog when they need their hands and easily pick it back up again. Traffic leads, like waist leashes, require good teamwork between the dog and handler because you are right on top of each other. I have used a traffic lead in the past, however I found it wasn’t as useful as I hoped it would be as it was too restricting of Athena’s movements. 

Slip leads are a type of leash that uses a slipknot type loop that goes around the dogs neck. These are especially useful to those who have low mobility, and for picking up dogs running at large. Slip leads do not require a collar to use. A major drawback of the slip lead is because it works with a slipknot, it is very similar to a choke collar, meaning that it can tighten around your dogs neck a great deal and choke them or cause them to cough. However a dog who walks politely on a leash faces very little harm from a slip lead. I personally find that the benefits of slip leads outweigh their risks, because theres no way to get a collar on a dog running along a highway. I also like the convenience of a slip lead for quick trips to the drive thru because it means that I don’t have to clip and unclip the lead from my dog. You may also find these at your local vet clinic, as they are a way to easily leash a dog who may have come in without one.

Finally, the last type of leash I will talk about is the long line. A long line is a very long leash, usually over 10ft. These are used to help train a dog recall in a large open space like a park. I’ve used mine very little because I bought it just before last winter, and then the pandemic happened so its mostly spent its time hanging out in the leash pile, hence the poorly done daisy chain. Long lines are typically beneficial to people who are training working dogs in areas such as hunting or schutzhund.

Bonus round: Though not technically a leash, did you know you can get a seat belt for your dog? Doggy seat belts are similar to a short lead in length, and have a seat belt tongue(the metal part that goes into the buckle) and attachment point so that your dog is restrained. These need to be used in conjunction with a harness because using it with a collar can lead to injuries. Seat belts for dogs work wonders to keep a dog out of your hair and in the car, even when the windows are down. However, a caveat: according to Center for Pet Safety, who did tests on harnesses in car crashes, there are only certain ones that provide your dog with protection. Read more here.