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While I enjoy experiencing all types of plants at the botanic gardens I visit, I have always been entranced by stunning bonsai specimens and actively seek out bonsai collections whenever I can. Bonsai continue to gain popularity in North America, and expanding collections can be found in institutions across the United States. Growing up in the Chicago suburbs, I fondly remember frequent visits to the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe, Illinois. As I’ve never lived more than two hours from the Windy City, these visits have continued regularly over the last 40 years and often include a look at their masterful bonsai collection. Originating from the 6th-century Chinese practice of penjing, the art of creating miniature landscapes atop earthenware (“potted scene”), the Japanese art form of bonsai (“tree in a pot”) was adopted around the 12th century. Following World War II, this Japanese tradition became increasingly accessible and has found an immense following worldwide. The many nuances of how to successfully engage in bonsai, which is essentially growing and shaping a plant in a container, are covered in myriad references. There are also many active bonsai societies and practitioners that offer experience, guidance, and advice. To gain some insight on the basics of bonsai, I corresponded with Chris Baker, curator of bonsai at the Chicago Botanic Garden (CBG). He provided some wonderful information about bonsai, described the beautiful collection at the garden, and discussed the goals this collection aims to achieve. What started as a humble collection has grown into a diverse display of trees and forms. Left: Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa, Zones 4–8), right: Limber pine (Pinus flexilis, Zones 4–7). How long has CBG featured bonsai specimens? In 1978, the collection started as a small display on a bench structure in the east courtyard of the Education Center. That collection was removed when the courtyards were redesigned in 1994. In 1995, the Botanic Garden Committee of the board of directors approved the east courtyard being used as a display area again. At that time, between 10 to 15 trees were shown at any given moment during the display season. Both courtyards were renovated again in 2006, and the bonsai can now be seen on both sides. Since the space has doubled, 32 trees can be exhibited to the public. One of the most common landscape shrubs gets a whole new look in the CBG bonsai collection. Here, a hybrid yew (Taxus × media, Zones 4–7) proves it can be just as aesthetic as it is functional. How many specimens do you currently curate? There are about 260 trees in the collection, with around 125 considered display quality. We currently have over 160 different taxa. Some of our bonsai are imports from Japan, but many others feature North American tree species. What are some of your favorite plants for utilizing in bonsai, considering your Midwest location? The ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa, Zones 3–7) is the dominant pine tree in the western United States, found in mountainous areas from British Columbia to Mexico, and east to North Dakota and Texas. There are many great species that can be used as bonsai specimens, and we try to utilize North American species whenever we can. Some of those include ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa, Zones 3–7), Jack pine (P. banksiana, Zones 2–6), bald cypress (Taxodium distichum, Zones 4–9), eastern larch (Larix laricina, Zones 2–5), American hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana, Zones 3–9), and eastern white cedar (Thuja occidentalis, Zones 3–7). On the opposite end of the spectrum, bald cypress (Taxodium distichum, Zones 4–9) is native to the swamps of the southern United States but can be found in coastal areas as far north as southern Missouri. What three tips would you give beginners interested in bonsai? Getting into bonsai is like exploring any other form of gardening, and the basics are much the same. Before you can get to work pruning and training a tree to your will, you must select the species that is right for your location and needs. One: Know your environment. How much sun do you have? How much shade do you have? How often can you water? This will tell you what species will work best for your bonsai. Two: Do your research. Research details on specific species: what do they need regarding light, water, heat, shade, feeding, and so on? Find the species that matches or comes as close to the conditions you can provide. Three: Master one or two species at a time. Don’t get several different trees that all have different requirements (i.e., tropical, deciduous, pine, evergreen). Like any other collection of plants, mastering the vastly different needs of various species will take time. Don’t overwhelm yourself with too much to learn too early on. Pick your poison. Are you more likely to have success with a tropical species like natal plum (Carissa macrocarpa, Zones 9–10), or a cool-climate evergreen like Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora, Zones 4–7)? How do you see the CBG bonsai collection developing in the future in terms of presence and display at the garden? It is always my goal to make the bonsai as relevant as possible when it comes to the garden as a whole. Being involved in yearly themes, extending display times, and hosting events are some ways I try to do that. Visit chicagobotanic.org/ChrisBaker for more information on Chris and the collection Information regarding Chicago Botanic Garden can be found on their website: chicagobotanic.org Find more information on bonsai: And for more Midwest regional reports, click here. Mark Dwyer is the garden manager for the Edgerton Hospital Healing Garden in Edgerton, Wisconsin, and he operates Landscape Prescriptions by MD. 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Coneflowers, or Echinacea, are sturdy and beautiful perennials with daisy-like flowers. Their spiky cones provide an ample supply of nectar for pollinators, and their seed heads make excellent food for overwintering birds and other small animals.  Their attractive flowers, paired with their long blooming season and pollinator appeal, make these a staple for many gardeners. While the most common color for these flowers is purple, some cultivars bloom in shades of yellow, pink, white, and orange.  PowWow® ‘Wild Berry’ Coneflower Overview Native Area North America Watering Requirements Low to moderate Pests & Diseases Aphids, Japanese beetles, caterpillars, root weevils, grasshoppers, leafhoppers, powdery mildew, root rot, leaf spot, and aster yellows Soil Type Sandy, loamy, well-drained What Is PowWow® ‘Wild Berry’ Coneflower? PowWow® ‘Wild Berry’ is a hybrid coneflower known for its extra intense color, compact size, and reliable blooming habit. Developed by PanAm Seed Co., this variety is a hybrid, but it’s bred from the Echinacea purpurea species. It’s still considered a hybrid, as it has been bred for specific traits, such as vivid color and vigorous growth. Characteristics This perennial has vivid, magenta-colored flowers. PowWow® ‘Wild Berry’ is a flowering perennial with vibrant magenta flowers that are brighter and more saturated than those of its parent species, Echinacea purpurea. The flowers are three to four inches across and begin blooming in early summer in most climates, but they may start to bloom earlier in warm climates.  The lovely purple petals surround a spiky cone at the center. The cone of this cultivar is bold, coppery-orange. It’s shorter than most standard varieties, reaching a height of around 20 inches, making it a great border option. It also works well in containers.  The foliage is standard for the genus. Lance-shaped leaves are deep green with a rough texture. The leaves are evenly spaced along strong, slender stems. They make fabulous cut flowers. When it comes to attracting pollinators, these will do the job splendidly.  Native Area The native Echinacea comes from North America. Echinacea purpurea, the parent species, is native to most of the Eastern and Central United States, and north into Canada. It grows in meadows, prairies, and open wooded areas. It’s a versatile and adaptable plant that can grow in most soil types and climates.  Planting Because this variety is compact, it makes a great container plant. It’s also lovely in borders or mixed beds, and in pollinator gardens. You can plant seedlings in spring or fall. Wait until after the last frost in spring, or plant at least six weeks before the first frost in fall.  Transplanting Full sun is essential for success. Choose a location with full sun and well-drained soil. If the soil needs improved drainage or additional nutrients, amend it in advance with compost. Loosen the soil about 12 inches down to help encourage root growth.  Water your plants the day before planting. This will reduce shock and enable it to adapt more quickly to its new surroundings. Dig a hole as deep and wide as the root ball and position it in the hole. Backfill around it and tamp down to remove air pockets.  Water your newly planted coneflower thoroughly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, for the next few weeks to help the plant become established in its new home. Mulch over the top to help retain moisture and insulate the roots.  Growing From Seed Hybrid varieties don’t always breed true to type, but you can re-purchase seeds each year. Since this is a hybrid, there is no guarantee that the seeds will breed true to the parent plant from which they originated. However, you can easily grow coneflowers from seeds. They require a period of cold to germinate, so if you’re going to direct sow them, do so in late fall or early winter.  If you opt to start your seeds indoors and plant seedlings in the spring, make sure to stratify your seeds first. They need about 30-60 days of moist, cold stratification.  When you’re ready to get started, fill your seed trays or pots with loose, well-draining seed starting mix. Sow your seeds about 1/4″ deep and cover lightly with soil. Keep them warm and moist, in bright but indirect light, until they germinate. This can take 10-21 days. Wait until they have two to three sets of true leaves before transplanting them into the ground. How to Grow PowWow® ‘Wild Berry’ coneflowers are not challenging to grow. The plants are adaptable and flexible in their environment and care requirements. These are one of the easiest perennials for gardeners of all levels, even beginners shouldn’t have trouble with them.  Light Maximize blooms and beauty by planting in an area with 8 hours of direct sun per day. Coneflowers require full sun to bloom their best. This means at least six, but ideally 8 hours of sun daily. Sunlight encourages flowering, and it intensifies the color of the blooms. Color is the main selling point of PowWow® ‘Wild Berry’, so be sure to maximize its effect by planting it in a sunny location.  Ample sunlight also helps prevent fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, that can interfere with photosynthesis. It also keeps the plant’s stems strong and sturdy. Water They are drought-tolerant once they’re established. When first planted, coneflowers will require some supplemental watering. For newly planted coneflowers, water two to three times per week to keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Overwatering can cause root rot.  Once established, coneflowers are drought-tolerant. You shouldn’t have to water established plants as long as you’re getting regular rainfall in the amount of about one inch per week. In times of prolonged drought, water occasionally.   Soil Ensure proper soil drainage to prevent root rot. Coneflowers are adaptable to various soil types, although clay soil can be challenging due to its tendency to compact easily. Drainage is the most crucial factor in keeping the roots happy and rot-free.  They will grow well in soil that is sandy, gravelly, and loamy, as long as it is moderately fertile. For poor soil, amend with compost before planting and then top-dress annually in the spring to maintain a healthy soil environment.  Temperature and Humidity Zones 3 through 9 can enjoy this perennial that comes back every year. Coneflowers are perennial in zones 3-9, which means that they are highly cold-tolerant. They can survive winter temperatures as low as -35°F (-37°C). They are also heat-tolerant and typically are happy in temperatures as high as 90°F (32°C). Hotter than that, and you might see them wilt a bit. In zones 8 and 9, you may want to provide them with some afternoon shade.  When it comes to moisture in the air, coneflowers prefer moderate humidity, but they don’t mind dry air either. Moderate humidity is ideal for healthy growth, but high humidity can make plants more susceptible to fungal issues, such as powdery mildew and leaf spot. Fertilizing You do not need to fertilize; too many nutrients can lead to weak stems. Fertilizing is not imperative for coneflowers. You can apply a balanced fertilizer once in the spring, as their growing season begins. After that, you won’t need to worry about it. In fact, over-fertilizing can lead to weak stems. Top-dressing your plants with compost annually will provide them with all the necessary nutrients. Maintenance Leave dead flowers and stems intact to support wildlife, or deadhead to promote more flowers. While you may want to cut back your coneflowers in the fall to avoid the look of dead stems and leaves in the garden, it’s best for wildlife to leave them intact.  Birds will feed on the dried seed heads over the winter. Just mulch around them to insulate the roots and leave the rest until spring. In the spring, cut back all the dead foliage to make way for the new growth.  Deadheading your plants through the growing season will keep them flowering more prolifically. If you want to leave the seed heads for birds or harvest seeds in the fall, leave some flowers intact as the season comes to a close.  Propagation It’s easy to grow coneflowers from seeds, but as I mentioned, PowWow® ‘Wild Berry’ is a hybrid, and there is no guarantee that the seeds will breed true to form. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try it, only that the new plants may not have all the same characteristics. If you want a clone of the plant you have, the best ways to propagate are by division and root cuttings.  Note that it is illegal to sell propagules from this cultivar as it is trademarked. Root Cuttings Take cuttings in the late winter. The best time to propagate from root cuttings is in late winter, when the plants are dormant. Dig up the plant and take cuts of two to three-inch sections of roots. Each section should have a part of the plant’s crown attached to it.  Plant your root cuttings in trays or pots filled with a loose seed-starting or potting mix, and keep them cool and in bright but indirect sunlight. Once growth appears, move them to a location with more sun exposure and transplant them after the risk of frost has passed.  Division Cool weather offers the ideal time to divide plants. If you want to propagate by division, do so in early fall or early spring. This is when the divisions will have ample time to get acclimated before the temperature extremes of summer and winter.  Dig up the entire clump of roots and use a sharp knife to separate the clump into sections with roots and shoots. Replant them at the same depth and water well. Treat each one like a new plant and keep the soil moist for several weeks until they establish new roots.  Common Problems Under ideal conditions, PowWow® ‘Wild Berry’ coneflowers have few enemies. They are low-maintenance and resilient. However, if the conditions are less than perfect, certain pests and diseases can pose a problem.  Pests Aphids are the most common pests, and they feed on plant sap. The most common pests you’ll encounter with your coneflowers are aphids, Japanese beetles, spider mites, and caterpillars. Aphids and spider mites feed on the sap of your plants and leave behind sticky excrement that can be a host for sooty mold, which interferes with photosynthesis. Use strong streams of water from a hose to knock them off the plant. Water appropriately to prevent the dryness that spider mites enjoy. Japanese beetles and caterpillars will feed on the foliage, leaving holes and sometimes skeletonizing leaves. You can use traps for beetles or pick them off by hand if they become a significant issue. Caterpillars are typically not severe, and hand picking is the best way to get rid of them, as well.  Diseases Fungal diseases attack these plants in humid climates or areas that are overhead irrigated. Most disease issues that coneflowers face are fungal, often resulting from poor watering habits. Avoid overhead watering and ensure your plants have adequate ventilation by avoiding overcrowding. You can treat diseases like leaf spot and powdery mildew by removing damaged leaves. If necessary, follow up with neem oil or copper-based fungicides. The exception to this is a disease called aster yellows. This causes twisted growth and deformed, green flowers. There is no cure for this condition, so if you notice it, remove the plant and dispose of it properly. Don’t compost it.  Frequently Asked Questions Coneflowers pair well with other plants that are waterwise and like a lot of sun exposure. Milkweed, bee balm, yarrow, and black-eyed Susans are all great choices. Yes, coneflowers are not toxic to people or pets. Mulch around the base and leave the seed heads to provide food for wildlife, or cut to the ground and mulch over. Source link

Nothing brings people together quite like the joy of flowers. A spring flower bulb planting party is a fun way to make memories and grow some gorgeous cut flower planters for the summer. No matter your experience or background in gardening, add hosting a planting party to your calendar this year to bring you and your guests a summer full of joy. I have been attending a lot of tours lately at private gardens, and while the designs are completely different, they all have one thing in common: the garden is for entertaining. It’s certainly a privilege to have this type of space. My garden is still very new, and the plants are slowly going into the design that I created last year.  Like all those other gardeners, my favourite thing about having a garden is hosting garden parties. I have designed my garden to be a welcoming place with lots of comfortable seating, fresh food growing, and lots and lots of flowers.  To create more lushness in the summer months, I’ve been planting a lot of summer flowering bulbs in containers. Here’s why:  I wanted vibrant flowers in pots that I could move around to fill in the spaces of the garden around the entertaining areas. I needed some extra growing space for summer cut flowers like calla lilies, dahlias, ranunculus, and freesia.  Enter spring planted bulbs. Many are great in containers and make fabulous cut flowers.  When planning my project, I realized that something was missing: friends! So, I bought a few extra supplies, sent out invites, and hosted a hosted a spring planting party. What a way to spend a spring afternoon! We had delicious garden-style food and drinks, and then planted our own little cutting garden in pots. There were lots of laughs and photo-worthy treats plus, everyone went home with a gorgeous planter of summer-flowering bulbs at the end of the evening.  I’ve got lots of tips on how you can host your own planting party this spring, plus an extra special giveaway at the end of this post, so let’s dive in. Sponsored Content: A huge thank you to Flowerbulb.eu, who sponsored the party and provided us with plenty of bulbs for our pots. It is a great resource for all the information we needed to plant them. Summer flowering bulbs provide some of the most beautiful displays of colour, and they need to be planted now in the spring. More tips for summer flowering bulbs can be found at Flowerbulb.eu. My sample shows what the planter will look like when the summer flowering bulbs are in bloom. How to Host a Successful Planting Party I transformed the lawn in the middle of the garden into a planting station with a few tables and all the supplies for the party. Then I set the patio table on the deck with garden-themed food and drinks.  Next, I will share my top tips for hosting a planting party. Start the night off with food and drinks. Prep Your Materials You don’t need many materials to host a spring planting party. The first thing I sourced was the plastic pots for the containers. I posted in my local free group for some, and I had a small collection myself. It’s easy to find inexpensive plastic pots that will last through the season. Your guests could even bring their own containers if they choose.  Look for pots large enough to grow cutting flowers, a minimum of 10” diameter and 12” deep.  Make sure the pots have drainage otherwise your bulbs will rot if sitting in water.  Aprons and gardening gloves help keep guests’ clothes clean. You’ll also need to make or buy potting soil. Don’t use garden soil as it doesn’t have the right balance for a container garden. Garden soil is too heavy for smaller container gardens. A potting soil mix, whether you make it or buy a bag of soil meant for container gardening, will have a balance of materials that allow for air flow and water retention.  I used my peat-free potting soil recipe. I made a batch and put it in a large bucket in the center of the table with a soil scoop. I also provided a soil knife with a ruler to measure planting depth. Prep your materials on a separate table out in the garden. Do a Demonstration Since everyone has different gardening backgrounds, it’s a good idea to demonstrate before planting. While growing summer bulbs in containers is relatively easy, we want to ensure everyone plants them right. As a result, the new gardeners were not intimidated at all. And the experienced gardeners are always game to get their hands into some soil.  Rather than plant all the bulbs at once, you want to layer them.  Each bulb has different planting depths. In my case, I planted the gladiolus callianthus 5 inches deep, the Dutch iris 4 inches deep, and the ranunculus and freesia two inches deep. Plant the bulbs as close together as possible without letting them touch. This will give you the best results possible. I also have tons of tips on planting bulbs in containers here. After the demonstration, everyone quickly dove into potting their own container. Plant Summer-Flowering Bulbs Not all of my friends are gardeners. While some have a lot of experience, others were fairly new to digging in the dirt.  To make the planting simple, I picked up two bags of mixed bulbs labelled as both “cutting flowers” and “grow in containers”. This included: Assorted Dutch iris Assorted freesia single Gladiolus Callianthus Assorted ranunculus I also picked up some calla lily rhizomes and dahlia tubers specifically labelled for containers.  This is what the container could look like in summer if you choose calla lilies, dahlias, and ranunculus. I like including a variety of bulbs so you have different colours, stem lengths, and blooming times for a really robust summer display of flowers. I also love that these bulbs double as cut flowers—you can cut some and bring them inside to arrange in vases or give them away to spread the joy. Keep your different types of bulbs separated since they each have different planting depths. If you can’t find bags of mixed bulbs, choose from this list of summer flowering bulbs which do great in containers.  (Note: summer flowering bulbs is an umbrella term, but they can technically be bulbs, tubers, corms, and rhizomes.)  Pick the varieties that you love, just be sure to read the growing and planting instructions and choose those that will be appropriate for container growing. A few annuals help to top the planter while we wait for the bulbs to grow and bloom. Top With Flowering Annuals I purchased a few trays of current flowering annuals (marigolds, violas, and pansies) to top the container gardens with while the bulbs were preparing to grow. You can plant them right at the top to decorate, and the bulbs will happily come up through the gaps in the summer.  Look for inexpensive basket stuffers that come in cell packs.  Serve Garden-Themed Food We can’t forget the food! I served garden-themed snacks on my deck to get the party started.The menu was simple: little sandwiches with ham, cheese, apple, and homegrown sprouts, salads in pretty glassware, and everything decorated with fruit and edible flowers. I took one large plate and then a smaller one, putting a small herb vase in between the two to make my own DIY tiered dessert stand. On it, we had colourful macarons, mini cupcakes, and edible flowers as garnishes.  I displayed the food on vintage plates that I got from a garage sale. Make a Signature Cocktail What is a garden party without some gartending? One of the guests created a rosemary paloma as our signature cocktail for the evening. Here’s how you can make it! Rosemary Simple Syrup 1 cup water 1 cup white sugar ¼ cup rosemary leaves Bring the ingredients to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer for two minutes, then remove from heat and allow it to cool and infuse for thirty minutes before straining.  Rosemary Paloma 2 ounces tequila (optional) 2 ounces fresh grapefruit juice, plus slices for garnish 2 ounces sparkling water ¼ ounce rosemary simple syrup  Mix all ingredients in a glass of ice and garnish with a sprig of fresh rosemary and a nice sized chunk of pink grapefruit. It was as yummy as it looked—absolutely everyone loved the cocktail. It’s very easy to make it a mocktail by leaving out the tequila, as it tasted just as good without it. I have more garden-inspired cocktails in this post, as well as mocktail ideas that you can serve at your own spring planting party. Ask for Help When it comes to hosting, I’m a firm believer that you don’t have to do it all. One of my friends brought the cupcakes and macarons while another brought the cocktail. I put together the activity and a guest came over early to help make the little sandwiches.  A few of my planting party guests! Bulb Giveaway!  To host your own planting party, I’ve partnered with Flowerbulb.eu to give away a $100 gift certificate so you and your guests can stock up on summer flowering bulbs! To enter, leave a comment below letting us know which bulbs you would buy with $100.  This contest is open to US residents only. Contest closes May 23, 2025 at 11:59 PM, where the winner will be chosen using a random number generator. You can even use the gift certificate to host your own planting party! The end result? Growing summer flowering bulbs in containers is a simple and fun activity to host during a garden party. This way, you can add a beautiful display of cut flowers to your deck, porch, patio, or balcony.  You’ll experience a great deal of joy not only from the flowers themselves but also from getting your hands in the soil and planting alongside friends. More Tips for Growing Summer Flowering Bulbs A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

Like a field full of boldly coloured butterflies, poppies are a great addition to any sunny garden area. I can already picture their papery petals blowing in the wind! This guide covers everything you need to know to grow poppy flowers for an impressive display of colours year after year. Last year, I planted a wildflower lawn in my front yard. I didn’t know what to expect, but I ended up being blown away by the results. The best part was the succession of flowers, where I had different plants taking center stage at different times of the year. At the beginning of June, the first California poppies started popping up. By the end of the month, I had so many covering my lawn that it looked like an orange meadow. I got so many compliments from everyone who passed by, and I can’t wait for the wildflower lawn to take off again this year. Poppies have long been a favourite of mine, and there are so many different varieties and colours to grow. So, let’s start planting! This post will cover… Meet the Poppy A herbaceous plant, poppy plants can grow to be over a metre tall with large flowers up to 15 cm wide. Not only do we love the signature red flower, but bees do too! Along with the many other colours that poppies come in. The poppy has a long history, most notably known for symbolizing the remembrance of soldiers. The famous poem, “In Flanders Fields” by John McCrae was written after the death of a fellow soldier and mentions poppies. After World War I, poppy flowers began growing everywhere. This is because the fields were barren from warfare but then became abundant with lime from the rubble, providing rich soil for the poppies to bloom. It is important to note that most poppy flowers are poisonous to some degree. The species contains alkaloid compounds that are poisonous to both humans and pets. Don’t munch on any part of the plant. Papaver somniferum, commonly known as the opium poppy or breadseed poppy. Types of Poppies Iceland Poppies, Papaver nudicaule, are not actually from Iceland but are native to boreal areas of North America, Asia, and Europe. They like to keep things cool in zones 3-7 and typically are grown as annuals. Red Poppies, Papaver rhoeas, are one of the most famous poppies, also being known as the Flanders or field poppy. They like warmer weather and grow in zones 4-9 as annuals. California Poppies, Eschscholzia californica, are native to western North America and grow well in zones 6-10. They come in an array of colours, including orange, yellow, red, pink, and white, and are typically treated as annuals. Oriental Poppies, Papaver orientale, are one of the most common perennial poppies, and they sure get noticed in the garden. They grow 2-3 feet tall in zones 3-9 and are fine, tolerating the cool weather. You will most commonly find them in orange, but they come in a variety of colours like salmon, red, and pink. Pink Oriental Poppy, Papaver orientale Celandine Poppies, Stylophorum diphyllum, are another perennial poppy that is native to eastern North America, growing in zones 4-9. These poppy flowers are bright yellow and are more likely to tolerate poor soil than other poppies. Opium Poppies, Papaver somniferum, are perhaps the most famous poppy. They produce both opium for the pharmaceutical industry and poppy seeds for consumption. A wonderful ornamental, some countries require licenses in order to grow the flower. The opium poppy is not allowed to be cultivated commercially in Canada or the USA. If you are in Canada, you can purchase your poppies at West Coast Seeds, Richters, or Monrovia. Opium Poppy, Papaver somniferum Medicinal Benefits of the California Poppy Since it is in the same family as the opium poppy, the California poppy also has some of the same pain relief and anxiety-reducing qualities. However, it doesn’t have the addictive or narcotic traits of the opium poppy. It can be used externally and internally to help treat headaches, migraines, muscle pain and tension, and backaches. The California poppy is also known to help with mental health issues such as depression, anxiety, restlessness, nervousness, and insomnia. Overall, it promotes relaxation and reduces stress. It is most commonly used in small doses and combined with other nervine herbs. The indigenous people of California have a long history of using poppies medicinally. It was used to halt lactation by applying mashed seedpods to the breast. It was also used for headaches, stomach aches, tuberculosis, toothaches, and to treat head lice. California Poppies, Eschscholzia californica How to Grow Poppies Planting and Growing Poppies from Seed Have you ever opened a brand new seed pack only to lose a ton of the tiny seeds? Poppy seeds are notorious for being small and easy to lose. My go-to trick for growing poppies from seed is to use a salt shaker! Mix the poppy seeds with sand in a large-holed saltshaker and simply sprinkle an even layer of seeds/sand over the entire area to plant. Very light and airy shade cloth can help prevent the tiny seedlings from frying in direct light; be careful, though, as the seeds need light to germinate. Of course, you can also just save the stems and shake those in the garden directly. They come with their own shaker made by Mother Nature! Keep the seedbed moist and do not allow it to dry out, as this can kill the young seedlings. Perennial poppies can be difficult to start from seed, and usually, you’ll get better results by starting them indoors and then transplanting them outside. Where to Plant Poppies The best place to plant poppies is in a site with full sun and well-draining soil. To get your poppy-growing site ready, clear all vegetation, rocks, and roots. If the soil is heavy, amend it with sharp sand, bark, and other additives that will allow for a very well-draining soil. Rake the entire planting area level and water well in preparation for the seeds or plants. I recommend planting your poppies in a spot where they can reseed year after year. Even if you have annual poppies, many may self seed or you can use the seed heads to replant them the following year. Poppies can also grow well in pots. To plant container poppies, find a medium-sized container with drainage holes and fill it with a good potting mix. Sprinkle your poppy seeds directly on top of the soil and be careful not to wash them away while planting. Their bright colours are sure to add some beauty to your porch or patio garden. Water your poppy seeds gently so as to not wash out the seeds. Transplanting Poppy Plants Most annual poppies, like Papaver rhoeas or Papaver somniferum, resent being transplanted and should be directly sown. Transplanting is best done for perennial poppies to bring them outside after growing them indoors or to move the poppy to a new home. Transplant any existing perennial poppies in late summer when they are no longer actively growing. To begin transplanting, water the ground around each plant to help loosen the soil. Carefully dig each plant, making sure to leave as much soil as possible around the root balls. For perennial poppies, be wary of their long taproot by digging deep and lifting carefully. Plant the poppies with their crowns level to the ground in a well-drained area and water well. The addition of mulch is useful to help prevent the newly transplanted plants from drying out. Shade cloth may also be used for protection until the plants are established well enough to withstand full sun. For direct sowing, thin any poppy seeds you don’t need. Caring for Poppy Flowers There are many different types of poppies, with some acting as perennials and some as annuals. Poppies that are grown from underground roots will come back every year, such as oriental poppies or the celandine poppy. Other poppies that are grown from seed, such as Iceland poppies or red poppies, are treated as an annual. Deadheading will prevent annual poppies from potentially reseeding themselves, so be careful when deciding to remove spent blooms. Poppies can be slow to sprout, so try to keep up with weeding the area until the plants are established. But once they sprout, they grow quickly. Poppies need very little care once established and are considered drought-tolerant. Some of the taller varieties, such as Iceland poppies, may need some staking and support from the wind. Poppy seed heads are very ornamental and can continue to decorate the garden long after the flowers are gone. How to Collect Poppy Seeds Poppy heads are incredibly ornamental, so sometimes I just leave them to enjoy when the cold settles in! But if you loved your poppies so much that you want to bring them back for next year’s garden, be sure to harvest some seed heads. The best way to get poppy flowers year after year is by collecting the seeds themselves. To collect poppy seeds, wait until the seed heads have completely dried. Clip the entire seed head from the stem. Take your seed heads inside and carefully break open the seed head over a sheet or large piece of paper. Remove all the seeds and compost the rest of the seed head. Store your poppy seeds in baggies in a cool, dry place until the seeds are ready to plant. Before planting, make sure to cold stratify the seeds for a few weeks. Since poppy flowers have a hard outer shell, this helps the plant to germinate prior to sowing. One poppy seed pod can contain hundreds of seeds. FAQ About Poppy Flowers Is it illegal to pick poppies? Please only collect poppy seeds from your own garden. While it is not illegal to pick poppy flowers (as some Californians have been told), it is still best practice to obtain seeds from your own garden or a friend’s garden rather than public property. Picking any kind of flowers from private or public property without permission can mean a potential fine. When should I plant poppy seeds? Poppies need to be exposed to cold temperatures to germinate. Most poppies go to seed in the fall, where they self seed. Most warm climates should plant their seeds in the fall so the poppy seeds get the cold they need to grow. Colder climates can sow their poppy in late winter or early spring when there is still a chance of frost. For more on when to plant poppies, read this post. Himilayan blue poppy (Meconopsis betonicifolia) And that’s a wrap on poppy flowers! After reading this guide on growing poppies, you are sure to have fields (or containers at least) of this delightful flower. Let me know in a comment down below what types of poppies you want to grow in your garden this year. More Tips for Growing Poppies A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. 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Breathe fresh life into an old piece of clothing with a little help from the garden. Making upcycled clothing can become a fun weekend project just by using ingredients grown from your garden. So go ahead and grab some new pieces from the thrift store, and let’s make some reworked clothing! The stats surrounding clothing are downright scary. Approximately 85% of textiles go to the dump each year, and less than 1% of clothing gets recycled. Another says that 35% of microplastics in the ocean come from laundering synthetic fabrics like polyester. Then you have the making of the garments themselves. Polyester releases 2-3 times more carbon emissions than cotton. The fashion industry itself is the second-largest consumer of the world’s water supply. There are also some dangerous chemicals lurking in the fast fashion world. In an investigation run by CBC, they found that one in five pieces of clothing from fast fashion retailers had high levels of harmful chemicals like lead, phthalates, and PFAS. Yikes! Companies will continue to produce vast amounts of cheap clothing as long as the consumer wants it. Upcycling clothing allows us to reimagine how a garment looks or give it a new life as something else altogether. Upcycling stops one more piece of clothing from going into the landfill and another new piece from being produced and sold. It’s important that we try to prolong the life of existing clothes as much as possible. And who doesn’t love a good thrifting trip? Here are ways you can make upcycled clothes with the garden serving as inspiration! This post will cover… Natural fabrics work best when using natural dyes. How to Upcycle Clothes Using the Garden Flower Pounding Flower pounding allows you to create botanical prints on fabric by hammering flowers and leaves onto fabric. They leave a colourful imprint of the flower behind. The key is making the natural dye from the flowers last. To do this, you’ll need to prep the fabric by scouring it to remove impurities and then add tannins to assist with the dye process. I go into detail about how to prep your fabric in this post. Then you get to do the fun activity of picking flowers from your garden and hammering it into the fabric. I’ve made tablecloths, napkins, and also framed fabric art using flower pounding. Flower pounding retains the dye from the flowers well when the fabric is properly prepped. Natural Dyes So many plants can be made into natural dyes, which is such a fun way to make upcycled clothing. I encourage you to go into your garden and experiment with which flowers and leaves can turn into dyes. You may end up with some unexpected colours! Here are some plants that work as excellent natural dyes: This post shows you how you can use marigold to dye fabric. It has some great instructions and tips that you can apply to other natural dyes as well! As a general rule of thumb, take the dried, fresh, or powdered plant material and simmer it in hot water. Use two parts plant material with two parts water. Once you’re satisfied with the colour, strain the plant material out and allow the dye to cool before using. Sun Printing A couple of years ago, I got obsessed with cyanotype printing. This printing type uses the sun’s power to imprint your botanicals onto your fabric. First, you treat the fabric with potassium ferricyanide and ferric ammonium citrate. It must be on natural materials like cotton or muslin. After the fabric dries in a dark room, you can lay your plant materials on it and let them sit in the sun. After just 20 minutes, the fabric has been printed! It’s that simple. For beginners, you can get sun printing kits that have everything you need to get started. I have fully detailed instructions on how I made these cyanotype printed napkins that you can apply to any natural fabric. Plant materials that can lay flat are the best for this type of project. Stamping Prints This method takes inspiration from the garden. I made stamped fabric napkins at Christmas, and they turned out amazing! I used a roller brush to smooth fabric paint over a rubber stamp to create my botanical prints. The options with this are limitless. I’ve also seen some people make their own stamps to replicate their favourite flowers from the garden. You can get stamp making kits that have everything you need to get started making fabric botanical prints. Thrifted Wool Cozies Wool is a great material for reworked clothing because it doesn’t fray or unravel when you cut it. It can also get pretty pricey when you pay for real wool felt by the yard. When shopping at the thrift store, try to find mostly wool sweaters or other animal fibres like cashmere or angora. I then felted them using the washing machine, making cutting the wool fabric easy. I then turned the wool felt into cozies for my plants. They look so cute in the winter, adding some coziness and charm. You can also use them as mug cozies. You can easily take the plant sweaters off once the winter season is over and put them back on for seasonal decor. Herbal Drawer Fresheners Speaking of felted wool, I did another project with the same sweater. Instead of making clothing, I made these herbal drawer fresheners. The key is filling them with fragrant herbs like lavender, rose, mint, and rosemary. Stick them in your drawers, and they’ll keep your clothes smelling fresh. I did a similar project with these herbal dream pillows. I just changed the shape and filled them with herbs that promote sleep, like hops and chamomile. For either of these projects, you can try to source thrifted fabric or rework clothing into these new projects. I put monograms on my drawer fresheners to personalize them. They make a lovely gift! Macrame Plant Hangers Macrame is back! I love using macrame as it’s a chic way to hang plants, adding some greenery and décor from the ceiling. All while keeping plants away from curious cats! At many thrift stores, you can also find craft supplies. To make a macrame, see if they have wire cable, leather, yarn, cotton twine, or other tactile materials. Then, follow the instructions in this post. Alternatively, you can turn an old shirt into a macrame. To do this, cut the shirt into long strips. You may need a couple of shirts or one XL shirt to do so. Depending on the fabric, you can leave it as is or maybe even braid it into strips before making the macrame hanger. Hand Painted Tote Bags At the thrift store, check out the bags section as well. I like seeing if any plain bags could use a little spruce up! I turned this plain tote bag into a fun and vibrant creation that could be used at the grocery store, beach, when travelling, as a lunch bag, or even to hold all your knitting supplies. You can use fabric paint to make all kinds of upcycled clothes, not just bags. You can either freehand the design using fabric pens or use a stencil to help you out. Then the rest is just painting with fabric paint and setting it! See how I made my market tote here. Frequently Asked Questions About Upcycled Clothing Can you legally sell upcycled clothing? Upcycled clothes enter into a grey area in the legal world. You don’t want to infringe on copyrighted material like original artwork, designs, lyrics, and quotes. Or on trademarks, like company and product names, and brand identity, like logos and slogans.However, fair use is allowed. This is where you can use and build upon existing works to create new works. But this is tricky to argue with in a legal matter, as it’s quite broad.Avoid using copyrighted imagery, sayings, specific logos, and brand names when reselling. Seek legal counsel if you’re unsure whether your upcycled clothing violates copyright or trademark law. What material is the best for upcycled clothing? Natural dyes have difficulty sticking to synthetic, man-made fabrics like polyester or rayon. Natural fibres like cotton, linen, bamboo, hemp, wool, silk, cashmere, and muslin work best. When shopping at a thrift store or looking through your closet for reworked clothing, look for these natural fibres. More Ways to Craft With the Garden A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

Cats aren’t always purrfect. They love to dig, scratch fence posts, and may even go to the bathroom in your precious flowerbeds. If you have a not-so-fabulous feline friend visiting your garden, here are a few ideas on how to keep cats out of your yard. I want to start this article off by saying I do have a cat. Originally a stray, Magic is a mischievous and handsome little fellow. Every time he hears me talking, he wants attention. He loves heights, jumping places he shouldn’t be, and he knows how to have a good time. While I love the guy, I will say that he does affect my garden. He likes to dig in my herb garden to sleep, and he’s the reason I rehomed all my lilies. Just a hint of the pollen could be bad for the little guy. However, he does so much good for me in the garden. Not only is he the world’s best rat killer, but he also patrols the property and helps to deter other cats. And most importantly, I love his company while I’m puttering away in the garden. His presence alone does wonders for my mental health, inside or outside! But I understand that they’re not always welcome, especially when they get up to no good in your flower beds. That being said, keep reading for tips to keep cats out of your yard naturally. The man, the myth, the legend…Magic! Why Cats Can Be a Nuisance I can certainly understand why you would want to know how to keep cats out of your yard. After all, it’s not all sun lounging and rat hunting. Cats tend to dig in garden beds. They don’t know the difference between a vegetable bed and an outdoor litter box. Male cats also like to mark their territory. It can be annoying to have a neighbour’s cat or stray periodically come in and spray your favourite plants. Stinky! Additionally, cats are natural hunters. They could even try to catch beautiful songbirds in the garden. They may even be a terror to chickens if you have some. Cats like to dig in garden beds and will even use them as a litterbox. How to Keep Cats Out of Your Yard Cats are good climbers and jumpers, so it can be difficult to keep them out when they’re not wanted. Luckily, there are a few harmless and natural ways to keep stray cats out of your yard. Cover Soil First and foremost, cats love squishy and soft soil. Whether they’re trying to lounge or go to the bathroom, the goal is to make your garden beds someplace they wouldn’t want to hang out. Since cats don’t like any pokey surfaces, cover the soil with things to make it less appealing. The goal is to make it look like the opposite of a litterbox. Here are some ideas: Chicken wire: use metal or plastic chicken wire to cover your beds. Most plants can still grow through, but it stops the cats from digging. River rocks: larger rocks, uneven rocks are better, but pebbles should also help. Eggs shells: every time you crack an egg, sprinkle the egg shells in your garden beds. Sharp twigs: take cuttings from holly leaves, rose bushes, blackberries, barberry bushes, and more pokey plants and spread them across your garden. Thick mulch: a thick and pokey mulch also does the trick. Pinecones also work! Short twigs: you can also collect a bunch of smaller-sized twigs while pruning and lay them in bunches in your garden. The bees may enjoy them too! Bamboo skewers: stick bamboo skewers with the pointy side up throughout the garden. Space them close enough that it makes it difficult for a cat to lay down. Make the ground pokey and uncomfortable for cats to walk on. Water Unlike most dogs, most cats don’t like getting wet. Use water to your advantage! Cats hate having wet paws, so if a certain cat likes to patrol your yard at a specific time of day, try watering the lawn and garden then. You can also spray down any areas they like to mark. Oftentimes, cats will mark the same spots, so you can wash their scent away to keep them from returning. If a cat is in the yard and you catch them red-handed, you can grab a super soaker and spray next to the cat. It should scare them off completely. Another alternative, if you’re not at home or in the garden 24/7 like me, is to use motion-activated sprinklers. They will go off at the hint of movement and scare away the feline. Just be sure to pay attention to how often they go off and obey water shortages. Water often enough, and the cats will stay away. Fencing While cats have a thing for climbing things, you can make your fence less accessible to cats. For fences with fence posts, you can tie an additional wire or string across the top. Cats will hesitate to jump up and climb over it. You can also get spikey plastic fence caps. These prevent cats from walking across fences. They are uncomfortable for the cat but not harmful. Finally, grab a tub of Vaseline and spread it across the top of the fence. Cats won’t like the feeling of it under their paws and will hesitate to jump up again. Cats can reach all heights, so fences won’t keep them out. Cat Repellent Plants Just like other harmful pests, you can actually grow certain plants to keep cats out of your yard. Cats have powerful noses and don’t like the smell of some plants. Try planting these: Other scents that cats don’t enjoy include bone meal fertilizer, citrus, coffee grounds, and red wine vinegar. Try spreading your morning coffee grounds and citrus peels in the garden and see if it helps keep the cats at bay. Cats have sensitive noses, so you can use that to your advantage. Cat Repellent Spray Commercial cat repellent for yards tries to mimic the spray of predator urine. That certainly doesn’t sound appealing to me, and I’m never quite sure what ingredients are inside these sprays. I always opt to make something myself whenever I can. Natural cat repellent spray can work just as well! To make your own, mix together the following ingredients in a spray bottle: For full measurements, see the recipe card at the end of the post. Let the mixture steep overnight. Spray the mixture wherever you want to keep cats away. You won’t need a ton! Respray once a week until the cats get the hint and don’t come back. Note, vinegar can be harmful to plants and can even be a weed killer. Be careful where you spray it. This spray is fairly stinky, so only spray outside the house and avoid spraying near open windows. Be careful where you spray your repellent, as it can affect nearby plants as well. Make Peace If all else fails, maybe it’s time to make peace with your new feline friend. Try chatting with your neighbour about their cat and see if they can help keep their cat out of your yard. If they have a tendency to bug birds in the garden, ask if they can wear a bell around their neck. You can also try to create a place in the garden just for the cat. This will attract them to the right spot in the garden and deter them from your precious vegetable and flower gardens. Plant catnip for the cat. You can also create a little sandbox for them next to the catnip to give them a place to hang out and go to the bathroom. With this method, you will likely have to clean up every once in a while. If all else fails, make peace with your new feline friend. FAQ About Keeping Cats Out What attracts cats to my yard? Cats go where their belly goes. If you have songbirds, rodents, or even scrumptious plants like catnip, they may wander into your yard. They may also be attracted to garbage or compost if there is something in there they feel like eating.They’re also attracted to soft dirt to use as a litter box. They also like the scent of other cats, so if you have one, they may come by to visit. How do I stop cats from pooping in my garden? You can use many of these tactics to keep cats from pooping in your garden. Ideally, make the soil inhospitable to them by filling it with plants so there’s nowhere for them to dig or cover it with spikey objects. I have a whole post dedicated to this for more tips. More Posts About Gardening with Pets Natural Cat Repellent Spray Spray this mixture throughout your garden and backyard to deter stray cats from hanging around. Mix together all ingredients and place in a spray bottle.Let the mixture sit overnight.Spray wherever stray cats visit your yard.Reapply once a week until the cats no longer return. A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

Nothing brings people together quite like the joy of flowers. A spring flower bulb planting party is a fun way to make memories and grow some gorgeous cut flower planters for the summer. No matter your experience or background in gardening, add hosting a planting party to your calendar this year to bring you and your guests a summer full of joy. I have been attending a lot of tours lately at private gardens, and while the designs are completely different, they all have one thing in common: the garden is for entertaining. It’s certainly a privilege to have this type of space. My garden is still very new, and the plants are slowly going into the design that I created last year.  Like all those other gardeners, my favourite thing about having a garden is hosting garden parties. I have designed my garden to be a welcoming place with lots of comfortable seating, fresh food growing, and lots and lots of flowers.  To create more lushness in the summer months, I’ve been planting a lot of summer flowering bulbs in containers. Here’s why:  I wanted vibrant flowers in pots that I could move around to fill in the spaces of the garden around the entertaining areas. I needed some extra growing space for summer cut flowers like calla lilies, dahlias, ranunculus, and freesia.  Enter spring planted bulbs. Many are great in containers and make fabulous cut flowers.  When planning my project, I realized that something was missing: friends! So, I bought a few extra supplies, sent out invites, and hosted a hosted a spring planting party. What a way to spend a spring afternoon! We had delicious garden-style food and drinks, and then planted our own little cutting garden in pots. There were lots of laughs and photo-worthy treats plus, everyone went home with a gorgeous planter of summer-flowering bulbs at the end of the evening.  I’ve got lots of tips on how you can host your own planting party this spring, plus an extra special giveaway at the end of this post, so let’s dive in. Sponsored Content: A huge thank you to Flowerbulb.eu, who sponsored the party and provided us with plenty of bulbs for our pots. It is a great resource for all the information we needed to plant them. Summer flowering bulbs provide some of the most beautiful displays of colour, and they need to be planted now in the spring. More tips for summer flowering bulbs can be found at Flowerbulb.eu. My sample shows what the planter will look like when the summer flowering bulbs are in bloom. How to Host a Successful Planting Party I transformed the lawn in the middle of the garden into a planting station with a few tables and all the supplies for the party. Then I set the patio table on the deck with garden-themed food and drinks.  Next, I will share my top tips for hosting a planting party. Start the night off with food and drinks. Prep Your Materials You don’t need many materials to host a spring planting party. The first thing I sourced was the plastic pots for the containers. I posted in my local free group for some, and I had a small collection myself. It’s easy to find inexpensive plastic pots that will last through the season. Your guests could even bring their own containers if they choose.  Look for pots large enough to grow cutting flowers, a minimum of 10” diameter and 12” deep.  Make sure the pots have drainage otherwise your bulbs will rot if sitting in water.  Aprons and gardening gloves help keep guests’ clothes clean. You’ll also need to make or buy potting soil. Don’t use garden soil as it doesn’t have the right balance for a container garden. Garden soil is too heavy for smaller container gardens. A potting soil mix, whether you make it or buy a bag of soil meant for container gardening, will have a balance of materials that allow for air flow and water retention.  I used my peat-free potting soil recipe. I made a batch and put it in a large bucket in the center of the table with a soil scoop. I also provided a soil knife with a ruler to measure planting depth. Prep your materials on a separate table out in the garden. Do a Demonstration Since everyone has different gardening backgrounds, it’s a good idea to demonstrate before planting. While growing summer bulbs in containers is relatively easy, we want to ensure everyone plants them right. As a result, the new gardeners were not intimidated at all. And the experienced gardeners are always game to get their hands into some soil.  Rather than plant all the bulbs at once, you want to layer them.  Each bulb has different planting depths. In my case, I planted the gladiolus callianthus 5 inches deep, the Dutch iris 4 inches deep, and the ranunculus and freesia two inches deep. Plant the bulbs as close together as possible without letting them touch. This will give you the best results possible. I also have tons of tips on planting bulbs in containers here. After the demonstration, everyone quickly dove into potting their own container. Plant Summer-Flowering Bulbs Not all of my friends are gardeners. While some have a lot of experience, others were fairly new to digging in the dirt.  To make the planting simple, I picked up two bags of mixed bulbs labelled as both “cutting flowers” and “grow in containers”. This included: Assorted Dutch iris Assorted freesia single Gladiolus Callianthus Assorted ranunculus I also picked up some calla lily rhizomes and dahlia tubers specifically labelled for containers.  This is what the container could look like in summer if you choose calla lilies, dahlias, and ranunculus. I like including a variety of bulbs so you have different colours, stem lengths, and blooming times for a really robust summer display of flowers. I also love that these bulbs double as cut flowers—you can cut some and bring them inside to arrange in vases or give them away to spread the joy. Keep your different types of bulbs separated since they each have different planting depths. If you can’t find bags of mixed bulbs, choose from this list of summer flowering bulbs which do great in containers.  (Note: summer flowering bulbs is an umbrella term, but they can technically be bulbs, tubers, corms, and rhizomes.)  Pick the varieties that you love, just be sure to read the growing and planting instructions and choose those that will be appropriate for container growing. A few annuals help to top the planter while we wait for the bulbs to grow and bloom. Top With Flowering Annuals I purchased a few trays of current flowering annuals (marigolds, violas, and pansies) to top the container gardens with while the bulbs were preparing to grow. You can plant them right at the top to decorate, and the bulbs will happily come up through the gaps in the summer.  Look for inexpensive basket stuffers that come in cell packs.  Serve Garden-Themed Food We can’t forget the food! I served garden-themed snacks on my deck to get the party started.The menu was simple: little sandwiches with ham, cheese, apple, and homegrown sprouts, salads in pretty glassware, and everything decorated with fruit and edible flowers. I took one large plate and then a smaller one, putting a small herb vase in between the two to make my own DIY tiered dessert stand. On it, we had colourful macarons, mini cupcakes, and edible flowers as garnishes.  I displayed the food on vintage plates that I got from a garage sale. Make a Signature Cocktail What is a garden party without some gartending? One of the guests created a rosemary paloma as our signature cocktail for the evening. Here’s how you can make it! Rosemary Simple Syrup 1 cup water 1 cup white sugar ¼ cup rosemary leaves Bring the ingredients to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer for two minutes, then remove from heat and allow it to cool and infuse for thirty minutes before straining.  Rosemary Paloma 2 ounces tequila (optional) 2 ounces fresh grapefruit juice, plus slices for garnish 2 ounces sparkling water ¼ ounce rosemary simple syrup  Mix all ingredients in a glass of ice and garnish with a sprig of fresh rosemary and a nice sized chunk of pink grapefruit. It was as yummy as it looked—absolutely everyone loved the cocktail. It’s very easy to make it a mocktail by leaving out the tequila, as it tasted just as good without it. I have more garden-inspired cocktails in this post, as well as mocktail ideas that you can serve at your own spring planting party. Ask for Help When it comes to hosting, I’m a firm believer that you don’t have to do it all. One of my friends brought the cupcakes and macarons while another brought the cocktail. I put together the activity and a guest came over early to help make the little sandwiches.  A few of my planting party guests! Bulb Giveaway!  To host your own planting party, I’ve partnered with Flowerbulb.eu to give away a $100 gift certificate so you and your guests can stock up on summer flowering bulbs! To enter, leave a comment below letting us know which bulbs you would buy with $100.  This contest is open to US residents only. Contest closes May 23, 2025 at 11:59 PM, where the winner will be chosen using a random number generator. You can even use the gift certificate to host your own planting party! The end result? Growing summer flowering bulbs in containers is a simple and fun activity to host during a garden party. This way, you can add a beautiful display of cut flowers to your deck, porch, patio, or balcony.  You’ll experience a great deal of joy not only from the flowers themselves but also from getting your hands in the soil and planting alongside friends. More Tips for Growing Summer Flowering Bulbs A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

Nanking cherries have a long history of use in food, medicine, and ornamental gardening. They’re a member of the rose family of plants and the same genus as cherries, plums, and apricots.  These cold-hardy shrubs produce small, white to pink flowers in the spring. In the summer, dark red edible stone fruits (drupes) appear en masse. They stay on bushes until late in the season, making them some of the earliest and latest fruits you’ll harvest.  If you live in the coldest regions of the U.S. and have trouble growing fruit, this remarkably resilient shrub will be a great choice. Let’s dive in to learn how to plant and care for nanking cherry bushes in your area.  Nanking Cherry Bush Overview Plant Type Deciduous Shrub Native Area Northeast Asia Watering Requirements Moderate Pests & Diseases Branch cankers, aphids, spider mites, coryneum blight, borers Soil Type Loamy, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.0 to 7.5 What Is It? This hardy fruit tree thrives in cold, harsh climates. In the frigid gardens of Siberia, Mongolia, Tibet, and northern China, few species of fruit trees can survive. Nanking cherries, however, thrive in these frigid zones. This is where some of the planet’s driest and coldest air masses move east. For fruit trees to come from here, they have to be resilient.  The first trees arrived in the U.S. in 1882. The horticulture writers of the Yearbook of Agriculture 1937 praised their future in US agriculture. Because of their small and sweet drupes, farmers were interested in their potential as a major fruit crop.  Today, few farmers grow nanking cherries, and even fewer market their fruit. The drupes have a short shelf life once they’re harvested. Still, for gardeners who grow them, they’re an exciting fruit that makes incredible jams, pies, juices, and wines.  Characteristics Hardy shrubs produce vibrant flowers and edible red drupes. Nanking cherry bushes (Prunus tomentosa) are deciduous shrubs and members of the rose family. They’re part of the Prunus genus which includes popular stone fruits such as cherries, plums, and almonds.  They go by several names, including Manchu cherry, mountain cherry, and Mongolian cherry. They’re one of the toughest stone fruits you can grow. They’ll handle droughts, severe cold, wind, and rain with ease.  These striking bushes grow to 10 feet high. They produce an abundance of white to pink flowers in the spring, followed by dense green foliage and edible red drupes. The flowers attract beneficial pollinators such as hummingbirds and bees. They make gorgeous alternatives to Yoshino cherry trees for enjoying a ‘hanami’ party at home.  Native Area Originating in cold plains, these shrubs thrive in harsh climates. These stunning shrubs originated in the cold plains of northeast Asia. In these semi-arid regions, long winters plunge temperatures below 0°F (-18°C) for months. Nanking cherries adapted to this cold, dry climate by developing a long taproot and downy fuzz on their foliage.    People spread them to Japan, Russia, and Korea. They became popular in gardens across the region because of their edible fruit and ornamental flowers. Today, they are grown throughout northern Asia, Russia, Northern Europe, and Canada.  Planting Growing from seed or container starters yields fruitful shrubs. These shrubs grow easily from seed. Many gardeners harvest their seeds from the drupes by washing, drying them, and cold-stratifying them for over 100 days.  They can grow in large containers, 100-gallon BPA-free grow bags, or directly sown into the ground. You can plant them in the spring after cold stratification or in the fall. Fall-sown seeds will naturally stratify and germinate in the spring.  Nanking cherries need cross-pollination to produce fruit. You should plant two within 100 feet of one another for proper fruit set. They’re somewhat hard to find in the US. Some suppliers and nurseries sell bare root plants as well as seeds. Occasionally, you may find starters in containers.  Transplanting Ensure two shrubs for fruit production and optimal growth. These shrubs can handle transplanting well. If you’re not in zones 2 through 7, these bushes will have trouble surviving. They can’t handle long periods of hot temperatures and high humidity.  Make sure you have two or more shrubs to produce fruit. Find a site with a neutral soil pH and over 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight.  Besides these basic requirements, these flowering shrubs don’t need special care. Transplant them in fall, late winter, or early spring before they start producing foliage. Grow them near other stone fruits if you want to cross-pollinate between species.  Growing from Seed Store-bought cold-stratified seeds can be planted in early spring. Order seeds from a reputable source online or at a nursery. Check that they aren’t damaged or chipped. Look at their packing date and avoid planting seeds over a year old.  Seeds will need cold stratification to germinate. After harvesting, clean them well and dry them for a few days in a cold, dry spot. Afterward, cold-stratify them outside in the cold or in your refrigerator for 100 days. Keep them in a mixture of vermiculite, sand, and potting mix.  Plant your seeds directly into the soil in the fall to cold stratify them. Store-bought seeds that have already gone through cold stratification can go into the ground in early spring. Plant them to a depth of ¾ inches and space them out more than 15 feet if you’re growing them for flowers and fruit. If you’re growing them as hedges, plant them closer together, between 1 to 2 feet.  How to Grow Nanking cherries are incredibly easy to grow. Once they germinate, they’re simple to maintain and don’t require much in terms of pruning or fertilization. They have long taproots that let them survive long periods of droughts.  The only thing they can’t handle is heat. High temperatures and humidity will stress them over time. Ideally, they need to grow in zones 7 or under. This limits them to high-altitude zones and northern latitudes in the US.  Light Ensure 6-8 hours of sunlight for healthy, sweet fruit. Grow these flowering shrubs in areas with over 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. They can grow in partial shade but won’t be as productive.  Plants growing in full sun will put on plenty of growth and abundant flowers in spring. The more light they get the fuller their blooms. Plants grown in full sun will produce sweeter fruit with high concentrations of sugars and tannins.  Water Ensure good drainage to prevent root rot and overwatering. As seedlings and young plants, give them plenty of water without over-saturating their soil. As they grow, they’ll develop their long taproot. Once they mature, they can survive long periods of droughts.  Be careful not to overwater your shrubs. They are susceptible to root rot and are not suited to overly moist soils.  In desert climates that receive less than 10 inches of rain a year, you may have to water them occasionally. Otherwise, you won’t have to worry about watering mature trees.  Soil Amend soil to maintain good drainage and proper pH. These hardy shrubs prefer well-drained, loamy soil with a neutral pH of between 5.0 and 7.5. Use a soil testing kit to see if your soil is within this range. Some soil amendments will raise or lower the soil’s pH if needed.  Nanking cherries will adapt to most soil types as long as they drain well. Soggy soils with high amounts of water-retaining clay and organic material are not ideal.  Temperature and Humidity They’re best for cold climates and not suited for intense heat. These shrubs are some of the most cold-hardy plants you can grow. They’ll survive in areas with a USDA hardiness zone of 2. These regions include much of Alaska and northern Canada. Temperatures for zone 2 zones can reach below -50°F (-46°C) during the winter.  Mature shrubs can handle a little humidity and short periods of afternoon heat. However, long and intense heat will eventually kill them. Gardeners in Florida, Hawaii, California, and the coastal South will not be able to grow them.  They’ll thrive in the Great Planes, in places such as the Dakotas, Wyoming, and Utah. You can also grow them in New England and the Midwest as long as the soil is well-draining. Generally, the lower the humidity, the better.  Fertilizing Organic compost can give young plants a helpful boost. These plants are experts at surviving in poor soils. They generally perform better away from nutrient-dense soil.  Consider feeding young plants with organic compost in spring. Although this isn’t needed, it may help boost the plants’ energy before flowering.  Maintenance They thrive with little care, just avoid soggy soil. One of the best things about growing Nanking cherries is their adaptability and low maintenance behavior. Once they’re established, you won’t have to worry about their needs.  Monitor their soil for oversaturation. If you see them growing in soggy soil, you may have to relocate them to better-draining locations. While these aren’t invasive plants, they naturalize easily in the landscape. This may require regular thinning to prevent their spread. Propagation It’s easy to propagate these plants by seed and cuttings. They can handle a lot of stress. If you live near other trees, try growing your own trees by collecting seeds or taking cuttings.  Cuttings Select flexible stems and root them in sun-filled spots. Find soft and flexible stems from several trees. Because they need cross pollination to flower and fruit, choose cuttings from as many individuals as possible.  Select the stems in spring or fall and cut them at 45° angles about 12 inches from the tip. Make sure there are at least four leaf nodes. Take off the leaves near the bottom of the cuttings and dip the cut ends in a rooting hormone.  Plant your cuttings up to 2 inches deep in loamy potting soil. Water them well and repeat when the soil gets dry. Place your cuttings in an area that gets plenty of direct sun. Within a couple of months, you’ll be able to plant them outside or in a larger container.  Harvesting and Storage Pick at peak ripeness for a delicious, sweet flavor. After your plants bloom in spring, the pollinated flowers will turn into small drupes. They’ll ripen over summer, turning soft and bright to dark red.  Once they’re ripe, harvest them immediately or leave them on the tree to develop even more delicious sugars. You’ll have to eat them within a few days or preserve them in jams or in the freezer.  Nanking cherries taste similar to tart cherries. The longer you leave them on their branches, the sweeter they’ll be. Besides jams, pies, and juices, they make outstanding wine. You’ll need a lot of cherries, and you’ll have better success if you let them ripen until fall.  Common Problems Other than sensitivity to long, hot temperatures and high humidity, these plants are tough as nails. They have very few issues growing in most regions of the northern US.  If you have a healthy ecosystem full of natural predators like birds, spiders, and wasps, your trees will likely be pest-free. As always, keep an eye on your plants for diseases, especially after periods of heavy rain and humidity.  Pests These hardy shrubs are relatively pest-free. However, they can still be infested by common pests that infest stone fruits.  Western Cherry Fruit Fly Inspect fruit for pests and discard any infected ones. This common pest will its eggs in the ripening fruit. You’ll notice white maggots developing inside the fruit. Check your harvest for infestations and throw away infected fruit. You can treat your tree with spinosad if you’ve had issues with these flies before. Spray every week as soon as cherries start to ripen, and do so out of direct sunlight while pollinators are not active. Black Cherry Aphid Use neem oil after rinsing plants with water. Black cherry aphids will sometimes infest the plants’ leaves. You may notice sooty mold growing on the honeydew secretions. Treat large infections with organic neem oil after spraying them with a high-pressure water hose. Again, apply pesticides outside the high activity periods of pollinators and beneficial insects. Spider Mite Treat them with insecticidal soap until they disappear. Spider mites are small insects that feed on the inside of leaves. You’ll notice the very thin webs between leaves and plant tissue in severe infestations. If the infestations are high, try treating them with insecticidal soap once a week until they go away.  Shothole Borer These pests of the Prunus genus bore under bark to lay their eggs. The shothole borer is a pest of plants in the Prunus genus and bores into the layers of wood below the bark. Adults then lay eggs in the cambium, causing girdling and eventually death if their numbers are high enough or the tree is weak enough. Prevent their spread by pruning away old and diseased branches, removing garden debris at the end of the season, and monitoring your tree for infestations. There is no pesticide that effectively controls the borer. Diseases Prune infected leaves and dispose of them immediately. Nanking cherries are usually disease free. Monitor your palnts for signs of root rot that can infect the roots of plants growing in soggy soil. There’s no cure for root rot. The only way to prevent it is by growing your shrubs in well-draining soil away from previously infected areas.  Coryneum blight is a disease that may infect the leaves. You’ll notice small black or brown spots that eventually turn into large holes. Prune infected plant tissue and dispose of it immediately by burning it. If the infection is severe, try treating it with copper sprays at leaf drop.  Frequently Asked Questions Yes, but only at high elevations in the north. Nanking cherries prefer growing in zone 7 and under. These areas include the northeastern corner of the state near the Modoc National Forest and the High Sierras. They taste like tart cherries, with large pits. They’re quite juicy and soft when they’re ripe. Yes, but only in big ones. These shrubs can grow to 10 feet but will stay between 4 and 6 feet tall. They have a long taproot, so your pot has to be deep. There are dwarf varieties that are much more compact. Source link