#ganton

The fourth day was the day I had been dreading. I knew I would be tired and I knew it was about 37km and would involve some steep climbs in and out of more dry chalk valleys. However, fortified by a top breakfast from the Cross Keys, we confidently set off around 8am so we could make as much progress as we could before we stopped for the packed lunch the pub had also provided. Thixendale was perfectly still and a cooling mist hung around the valley in which it was situated.

We had walked for about an hour when the path split into two and there was no sign indicating whichwas the corrected route. I got my mobile phone out. “****!” I thought. There must be no reception as my Ordnance Survey map app showed us in completely the wrong place. Luckily, I’d brought a second phone with me which was on a different network, knowing from experience that the one phone usually dies by about 5pm. I checked the Ordnance Survey app on the second phone: “Oh double ****!” It showed us in exactly the same place as the first phone. Somehow, we’d strayed way off course and our early start had been completely wasted. I felt deflated as I trudged a re-plotted route back to the official walk. Shortly we came across one of the walkers we’d met in the pub the night before. He’d set off exactly an hour after us. So that was it, we’d lost a whole hour. Not just any hour but the freshest and most energetic hour of the day.

And so to the final day; the last leg from Ganton to Filey. This was about 21 km or 13 miles or, to put it another way, a half marathon distance and about half the distance we had eventually walked the day before. This would be a doddle. Indeed, as we set off, I felt fresh, renewed and full of energy. I insisted that we picked up the pace. I wanted to be in Filey for lunch and a large fish and chips by the sea! The walking was indeed much gentler than the day before and I was confident about achieving our lunchtime target even though it had started to rain a little. There were, however, to be 3 real challenges which would seriously derail my lunchtime plans!

Challenge 1

The Yorkshire Wolds Way takes a detour around an RAF listening post at Stanton Wold. In order, it seems, to make-up the ground lost by this detour, the path takes the shortest possible route up the side of a short hill that could be better described as a cliff. To compound matters, now the rain had started, the cliff had the same degree of grip as an ice-covered mountain. We literally had to haul ourselves up using our hands whilst clinging to the adjoining barbed wire fence. So much for this being an easy walk!

Challenge 2

The relief at reaching the top of ice mountain Stanton Wold was short-lived. At this point the heavens opened. Whilst I luckily had a rain cover for my refrigerator, the waterproofs I had for me were totally ineffective. I was soaked through and now cold.

Challenge 3

The only thing keeping me going was now the thought of my fish and chips at Filey. I had studied my map beforehand. The walk didn’t end in the centre of Filey but followed the beach a bit further north along the coast to Filey Brigg. I envisaged a final straight of a seafront promenade consisting of a selection of amusement arcades, tacky beach shops and most importantly fish and chip restaurants.  We reached the beach at Filey soaked but nevertheless ready for a glorious sprint down the promenade with momentary glances to our left to choose the best fish and chips restaurant in which to celebrate later. Except there wasn’t a promenade and there were no beach front fish and chip restaurants! Instead, the path went up another cliff. Disheartened we made our way up the cliff, only for the path to plunge down another cliff into a valley with an equally steep climb up the other side. Our glory sprint had turned into a final soul-destroying trudge.

And that was it. The finish of the Yorkshire Wolds Way. No feeling of elation. Just cold, tired and wet and the depressing thought that we had to go back along the steep up and down path back to Filey before finding our fish and chips and the railway station for the journey home.