Missing Brooklyn these days when the whole neighborhood would go all out for Halloween.
I remember one guy came to my door looking a little bit pissed off and asked me, "Ok, who do you think I'm supposed to be?"
Me: "Easy. The Dude. The Big Lebowski. Awesome costume!"
All of his friends start laughing. "See? Nobody's gonna get it."
He clenches his eyes in frustration, shakes his head, and mutters, "I'm fat Thor."
Hope y'all had a great Halloween!
It's November 1 now and I've decided that's my New Year of sorts. I really want to get back to teaching.
So I had Him-Dude™ model for me to do an animated GIF to demonstrate the effects of different focal lengths. (I only used 5 lenses and in the end, took out the 24mm lens shot because it was really saturated for some reason.)
And I wrote up a blog post on my main site about it: Focal Length Effects | Four Bricks Tall
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Yesterday I posted that I learned about focal length, but then forgot to post the evidence
The lens I have on the Canon 450d has four focal lengths – ·
18mm·
24mm·
35mm·
55mm
This task was to help us see the difference made to an image using different focal lengths, how the subject of an image can appear larger and nearer and how in an 18mm focal length image you can see more of the surroundings of the subject, like what your eyes would see naturally, whereas when we reach 55mm the visual range of the image is much smaller and we only see the immediate surroundings of the subject mentioned that I had learned a few things about focal length, and then forgot to post the evidence, so here it is.
In digital photography, the term Depth of field is the zone within a photo that appears sharp and within focus. In a photograph, there is a point of focus, where the lens actually focused. But there is also an area both in front of, and behind, the point of focus that also appears sharper. That area correlates with the depth of field. In other words, Depth of field is the area in an image where objects appear acceptably in focus or have a level of acceptable sharpness. The main factors to determine depth of field are aperture(f-stop), distance between the lens and subject, and the lens' focal length.
Aperture is a hole in camera lens through which light enters the camera and reach to the sensor. The f-stop values are normally f2.8, f3.5, f4, f5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22 etc. The smallest f-numbers means the widest apertures and therefore the shallowest depth of fields. And the larger f-numbers means to the narrowest apertures and therefore the deepest depth of fields. For landscape photography we need higher f number, e.g. f22. For portrait photography we need smaller f number e.g. f2.8.
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Longer focal length the field of view is decreasing as the angle of view of longer focal lens decreasing too, you can make background blurry by applying decreasing number of aperture set up on your camera
I’m not sure how applicable this information would be, since many doll collectors photograph their dolls using cell phones, which has a focal length that is difficult/impossible to change.
But if you’re using a camera, especially if it has a lens that can zoom, this might be helpful info!
Disclaimer that desertdollranch has a post that talks about this as well! Please check that post out for their info.
This gets very technical, keep reading if you’re interested!
So, every lens has a focal length, which is the distance between the lens and the image sensor. When it comes to doll photography, it can make a big difference. “Wide-angle” lenses (measured in millimeters, mm) take in a lot of a scene, or more than the eye will see. The lens that came with my camera is 10-30mm. This means it can capture a wide scene and cannot zoom very far.
For taking close-up photos, this is actually not as ideal as you might think, because- in my own words- the lower the mm (the shorter the focal length, the wider the view), then the more distortion there will be of the face. Here is an example with Julie.
For the first photo, I used my lens without zooming. The face is distorted because what’s closer to the camera (her nose, chin, the front middle of her face) appears larger while the sides of her face and head appear smaller and farther back. For the second photo, I zoomed my lens as far as it would go and stepped back. To me, the face looks a lot more “normal”, or how we would usually see it.
I used the same technique with Lizzie, so you can see how it affects different face molds. In the following picture I also show where I’m positioned in relation to the doll to account for my zooming in.
As you can see, without zooming in my camera is only inches from her face. You can back up even farther if your lens goes higher than 30mm. However, this can get annoying if you don’t have much space.
Focal length is all up to you! And often, phones do not have the warping issue that my camera at 10mm has. I’m not saying that a photo like these are bad: it’s just not always what we photographers want. (And if any more knowledgeable photographers have any corrections please add on to this!)
All doll photos are good photos. It’s just that knowing the way our cameras work will help us better achieve what we want in a photo. Happy snapping!
