#epicurean

Vancouver, this one’s ours. While food tourists — myself included — have made pilgrimages to Time Out Markets scattered across the globe, the single Canadian outpost in Montreal always felt just out of reach. Not anymore. Now I can swap a pricey plane ticket for an affordable SkyTrain ride and land at 20 of the city’s most mouthwatering concepts under one very snazzy roof. Walking into Oakridge Park for the first time felt like opening the door of a brand new car — that particular smell of newness, everything sleek and untouched. No shade to the glamorous high-end retail that occupies the same address, but my focus was on the edible offerings up on the second level. The city’s newest foodie destination was poised and ready, flooded with light in a way that set it apart from every other Time Out Market I’d visited. It was brighter, airier, more Vancouver somehow — and it wouldn’t stay pristine for long. Within minutes of the kitchens opening, tables that had been waiting for their purpose started filling up with exactly what they were meant to hold. Highly anticipated restaurant openings are exciting by nature, but this one had a different energy about it. Surely it was the talented, friendly faces of the chefs and vendors from Vancouver’s tight-knit food community all being in one place, buzzing with pride to show us what they’d been cooking up in the lead-up to the public opening on May 28. It felt like a city-defining arrival, and we don’t get those too often. Time Out Vancouver’s general manager Julien Lavoie, a “local guy,” said a collaborative group of chefs was part of planning and research. “It’s part of being the best in the city. It’s the only way it works,” he said. A big challenge was communicating the Time Out way of operating. “The approach is new to Vancouver so there was a lot of educating and explaining what we are doing and why, while juggling 20 restaurants. Next, we translate that to our guests.”

Time Out Markets CEO Michael Marlay adds: “It’s a recipe for success in Vancouver with the chefs leaning on each other and being so co-operative. We gave honest feedback to a couple of chefs recently and they responded in milliseconds. They care so much. We want chefs to shine at what they’re good at and we do what we’re good at.” Time Out learns from each location, he said. “It’s early days but as one of the takeaways, we’ll remember how good Asian and Chinese barbecue is. “We’ve learned there’s a big following of sustainability and local food. We leaned into the need to have seafood and, ultimately, toward Asian-inspired traditional and modern takes. We can never say it’s perfect but at this first run, we’re more than 90 per cent where we need to be. We’ll continue evolving. Guests will tell us and we’ll respond.”

What’s it like inside Time Out Market Vancouver?

Make no mistake — this is not your typical mall food court. The 20 vendors and menus have been carefully curated to offer something genuinely distinct, though you’ll find plenty of familiar favourites woven in too. The highlights alone give you a sense of the scale: 18 kitchens, a dessert counter, a coffee counter, three bars, and multiple event spaces spread across one seriously impressive floor. At 51,000 sq. ft., it could feel impersonal, but it didn’t. The space features earthy, terracotta tones, oversized illustrated murals and curved brown banquettes. With modern-day camera-eats-first food folks in mind, there are several photo moments dotted around the space, including Time Out’s signature red in neon form at the back of the hall. Nearby, a Warhol-inspired Time Out magazine cover from 1971 serves as a quiet nod to the brand’s origins as a scrappy London publication, one that would eventually grow into the global cultural institution it is today. Time Out Market Vancouver offers around 1,000 seats, including a large outdoor terrace facing onto a public park, a perfect stage for the year-round events and activations Oakridge Park has planned to hold here.

What to eat at Time Out Market Vancouver

Mia’s take: Lunch Lady’s marinated Iberico pork collar on rice with fried egg, dip and salad lit up my happy place. Feenie’s Burgers Le Croc burger, tall and proud, with wagyu beef, foie gras, mushrooms and cheese, was an umami bomb. Makaam’s pad Thai in a delicate omelette bunting was all soigné and elegant for a food hall. Cambodian rice noodles with char-grilled prawns from Mee Bar seduced with a tricky balance of sweet, sour, spicy. A dish from Peacock went down too fast for introduction but it was deliciously cinnamony. Mello Donuts said, see? Donuts can float like a cloud. Beaucoup Creamery’s chocolate ice cream sandwich was dreamy-creamy. And DownLow Chicken’s fried chicken sandwich was tempting enough to reverse course after two desserts. This was my introduction to Time Out Market at Oakridge Park during a media preview yesterday. You might think that’s gluttonous, but five of us tag-teamed on dishes from the 20 or so kiosks on the second-floor market. Speaking of DownLow Chicken, a conversation with proprietor Doug Stephen shows a little bit of magic going on. “I had always said I’d never operate in a food court, but after visiting the Lisbon Time Out Market, I added, ‘except if it were a Time Out Market’.” Soon after he returned from the trip, Time Out cold-called and invited him to join the Vancouver market. When convinced it wasn’t a prank, he leapt. At the Lunch Lady counter, culinary director Benedict Lim was all smiles. Time Out built, equipped, operates sales logistics and covers rent (all for a percentage of revenue). “Everything is state of the art and high quality. I know how much it costs and they didn’t spare any expense,” he said with an even broader smile. Time Out’s expert culinary ninjas planned and designed his kitchen based on his Vietnamese menu. “I was shocked. They’ve done so many cuisines around the world and they were like, ‘OK, we know what you need.’ So far, everyone’s happy,” Lim said. The legendary Rob Feenie, of Feenie’s Burgers, marvels at the chef dynamics. “The cool thing about this is, in the past few weeks, we’ve really, really become a family. We’re all so supportive of each other. The other day, I was short a cook and someone offered me one of theirs,” he said.

“It’s what makes this really great. No egos. It’s humility, hunger, and smarts. We’re proud of each other & I’m proud we’re all so willing to help each other. I’m an old guy, it’s a humbling experience to see this after doing it for as long as I have.”

Hanna’s take: The beauty of the design and the uniform signage above each concept means you need to walk right up to get a glimpse of what’s up for order. You will see new menu items from these teams, but if you’re a seasoned eater in Vancouver, you already know these names. From Chef Rob Feenie of Le Crocodile to Chanthy Yen of Touk, these were some of the most familiar faces in cooking, all in one place. Some of them, I’d watched grow their business from single locations to certified culinary staples of our city over the last decade or so. I can tell you from experience, DownLow Chicken tastes just as great at Time Out as it does at the original location on Commercial Drive, just in case you were wondering.

Another one of my personal favourites, Beaucoup Bakery, is always up to something devilishly creative and addictive. This time, a thin ice cream sandwich with soft frozen buttercream blew me away. Run don’t walk, people. I also beelined it to Gastown favourite Pidgin to see what was on offer, delighted to see a foie gras rice bowl with daikon, chestnut and unagi glaze. From the famous Lunch Lady eats to the unbeatable slices from Via Tevere.

Here’s the full lineup of what to expect

• Feenie’s gourmet burgers by Chef Rob Feenie • Cambodian food at Mee Bar by Chef Chanthy Yen • Lunch Lady for Vietnamese street food • Modern Thai at MaKaam by Baan Lao’s Nutcha Phanthoupheng • DownLow Chicken for fried chicken • Raw and cooked seafood at Barnacle by Bar Bravo • Indian concept at Peacock by Chef Vikram Vij • Via Tevere for Neapolitan-style pizza • Japanese cuisine at Kishimoto • Mexican at Santo Taco • Modern Chinese BBQ at Heritage Asian Eatery • Mello for artisan doughnuts • Boba Run for bubble tea • Pasta at Pasta e Basta by Ask for Luigi • Modern Asian fusion at Pidgin • A dumpling bar by Blnd Tger • Spanish food at España • A Beaucoup Creamery Dessert Bar • Beaucoup Bakery Cafe

What is the pricing of food at Time Out Market Vancouver?

We’d be remiss not to touch on pricing. In a city where getting a full meal under $20 is increasingly difficult, the pricing here feels in step with the moment. Sure, it’s counter service, but you’re accessing 20 kitchens curated by Vancouver’s top culinary talent, with no reservations required and no wrong choice on the menu. Dishes and drinks range from under $10 to over $30 for a heartier entrée, depending on where you land. Time Out Market Vancouver gives this city a new way to discover itself. It might be the room Vancouver didn’t know it needed, where a tray from España and a doughnut from Mello can share the same table. Go see it for yourself.

Where is Time Out Market Vancouver? Time Out Market Vancouver is located at 650 West 41st Ave., Level 2 in Oakridge Park

When is Time Out Market Vancouver open? The market opens May 28 at 11 a.m. After that, the operational hours will be:

• Monday to Thursday — 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. • Friday and Saturday — 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. • Beaucoup Bakery Cafe — 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. (daily)

C01: Gorgonzola piccante, Stinking Bishop, Red Fox Red Leicester, ripe Brie, some Parmigiana, mature cheddar? With fig and almond crackers, kerrygold butter, some grapes, olives, pickled walnuts and pickled pears, fresh figs, and cornichons. And a glass/bottle of Malbec/Rioja/Chianti/Douro C02: ¿Porque no los dos? This is the way... Less importantly, Stilton is good, but was dethroned decades ago. R01: Agreed, I'm amazed more guests don't go for both (with coffee and a digestif to boot!) And yeah, stilton is good but I'd need a wider selection.