#envly

This blog post is in collaboration with Envly, a black-owned, online platform promoting awareness, community, and sustainability. Thank you so much for the opportunity to collaborate on this post, and please make sure to follow and check out their page for updates on their amazing work!

I dare you to find me one person that doesn’t enjoy spending money on clothes, or who doesn’t feel even the smallest rush after buying a new pair of pants or shoes. However, in the progression towards adulthood, one should always strive to be ethical and live sustainably.

In high school, I began actively shopping in thrift stores, forgoing fast fashion and online retailers. I was able to find more clothing more aligned with my personal style, without breaking the bank, and participate in a more ethical source of consumerism. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve realized there are some brands that are notoriously hard to find second-hand (looking at you, Los Angeles Apparel), but I still find unexplainable joy in the thrift store experience.  

The average Canadian throws out 81 pounds (37 kilograms) of textiles annually – about the weight of a newborn calf1. Additionally, clothing sent to landfills is made using synthetic materials – think polyester, rayon, nylon, and acrylic - and when broken down, releases toxic gasses, such as carbon dioxide and methane gasses2. Additionally, modern capitalism is built off of exploitation and the use of sweatshop labour in countries such as Bangladesh and Honduras results in minimal wages, disregard for human wellbeing, and some sketchy business practices. If that isn’t enough (and you feel like looking closer to home), the California Bureau of Labour Statistics notes that the second largest work force in Los Angeles is the cut-and-sew labour force (read: textile and garment labourers). Of the 46,000 individuals who comprise this labour force, 71% of these individuals are immigrants3 – making textile production inherently anti-black and anti-POC.

But fret not! There are ways to get your shopping fix that are ethical and reduce the amount of textile waste greenhouse gas emission we put back into the planet. So, for some tips on how to be a sustainable shopper, keep reading4.

To the left, to the left (everything you own in a box to the left)

Between social media, fashion magazines, and subversive advertising, it can be hard to distinguish what in our closet we need, versus what we want (or what we’re told are “closet essentials”). Empty your closet and be objective about what you need and what you don’t. The baby t-shirt you kept that your grandmother gave you? Those warm sweats from high school with holes all through the bum? Leggings that are about 2 inches too short and are threadbare in the inner thigh? Toss, babes.

Create four piles – donate, toss, alterations, and keep. One way to simplify this process is to create a mood board (Pinterest is good for this) for a clothing style you like and would actually wear.

Another trick to help this process is to establish something of a personal uniform. Do you find yourself always gravitating towards denim and flannel combinations? Do you enjoy bright colours and unconventional silhouettes? Whatever it is, take the time that you need – I would recommend anywhere between 3 hours or three days – and get to it.

Keep a list and check it twice.

Now that you have a better idea of the state of your closet, create a list of pieces that you don’t currently own, but would wear quite regularly if you did. A plain black hoodie? A simple, going-out dress? A nice blazer for work? Add it all to a list and organize it whatever way you’d like – whether it’s whatever comes to mind first or in order of personal importance.

Preparation is key

 If shopping is a sport, then thrifting would be akin to a marathon. Before you head out, make sure you give yourself ample time to shop around and make informed, well-thought out decisions. New, COVID-era regulations have required many thrift stores to restrict the usage of their dressing rooms. To get around this, my favourite thrifting outfit has been things that mould to the body and are easy to try clothes on over; things like body suits, tank tops, biker shorts and leggings. Bring some headphones to really put yourself in the zone and make sure you have a fully charged phone battery – helpful for directions, checking sizing, and for the impromptu FaceTime call to friends to ask, “How do I look?”. Also make sure you understand a store’s return and exchange policy to avoid any unwanted purchases.

Go virtual

Kijiji is not just for sneaker resellers and creeps looking to prey on young women for affordable housing. When looking for more niche wardrobe essentials (think winter jackets, bags, and sneakers), apps like Envly, Poshmark, Kijiji, and Depop can be your best friend. My motto is someone, somewhere is always selling something that you want5. Don’t be shy to arrange meetups to save on shipping and price negotiations.

Do your research

Not all clothing is made the same, and while it may be nice to be oblivious to things such as material or authenticity of an item, it pays off in the long run. My favourite material is cotton, and while 100% cotton may not be cheap, it is more accessible than people would want you to believe – as well as better for the environment and easier to maintain. If you notice that a majority of clothing in your closet is a certain material, then try to stay within your comfort zone and be vigilant. Also make sure you read the care labels on your thrifted items! There’s nothing worse than throwing a cute item of clothing in the wash, only to have it shrink 3 sizes when you pull it out.

Sew what

Maybe you don’t need any new clothing, but you’ve held on to some ill-fitting items for too long. Don’t worry! Toronto is full of tailors with reputations that precede them, and for a decent price. Feel free to DM me for my favourites from Mississauga to Scarborough.

Patience

Before you head out to the thrift stores, understand that one of the sacrifices for sustainability is convenience. Thankfully, we have brands like Envly changing that, but with thrifting and second-hand shopping, it is important to remember you won’t find everything you want all at once. Unlike your favourite fast fashion brands, you won’t find everything you want on your list all at once, but feel free to look at your thrifting adventure like a treasure hunt – it’ll be more than worth the wait.

Sources

1 https://rco.on.ca/the-average-person-throws-away-37-kilograms-of-textiles-annually/

2 https://www.upworthy.com/9-reasons-you-shouldnt-throw-away-clothes-and-4-things-you-can-do-instead

3 https://www.forbes.com/sites/syamameagher/2020/02/05/the-not-so-hidden-ethical-cost-of-fast-fashion-sneaky-sweatshops-in-our-own-backyard/#644c8b5525d1

4 While these tips are focused around clothing, they can also be applied to home goods and entertainment, including furniture, appliances, electronics, and entertainment media.