One of the best parts of Toronto is the large, flourishing community of black creatives that has developed over the years within the city. After engaging with her vibrant, sometimes larger-than-life pieces on Instagram (and hopefully, soon, in person) I was intrigued by the work of local artist, Ehiko Odeh, who's artwork centers around life, the divine, and her Nigerian heritage.

I had the opportunity to ask Odeh a few questions about her creative process and her inspirations, holistic healing, and her words of wisdom to other young, black creatives on their respective journeys.

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Segen Assefa: At what point in your life did you realize that you wanted to be an artist and why?

Ehiko Odeh: I moved to Canada in 2015 and was about to graduate from high school in Hamilton. I knew I wanted to get into art and be more serious with it. Life is all about creativity. Art is magic and my way of connecting the divine, as well as being a tool that has healed me in so many ways. I hate how people see artists as unsuccessful - I want to show artists that success is what you make of it - not just what it can bring for you monetarily - and that art should be taken seriously.

SA: And just to clarify, do you consider yourself an artist in the traditional sense, or would you prefer to give yourself a broader title?

EO: I don't like to put myself into categories since there is more to oneself than labels. Therefore, I am a multidisciplinary artist, because there are multiple ways to express oneself and the divine.

SA: You draw a lot of inspiration for your art from Nigerian culture. Why is this important to you, and more importantly, why do you think it should be important to others? How has this changed your relationship with your background and your roots?

EO: I wasn't really exposed to my culture(s) that much, growing up in Nigeria, and identity is something has always been important to me. When I came to Canada [in 2015], I became obsessed with knowing more about my culture and my history to maintain a grasp on myself and where I come from - I didn't want to "lose" myself, you know? Art was a great way to channel that, in addition to doing more research on my heritage.

My journey of cultural exploration has been important to me because there is a comfort in knowing who I am and the people who came before me. It's important to keep an open mind because there's so much we can learn from one another - making art about my background has drawn me closer to those who came before me, those who are still here, and those who are yet to come.

SA: Knowing that you have a Nigerian background, and coming from an African background myself, I know how parents can be when you tell them your passion is doing something other than what is considered the “norm”. How did your parents feel about you wanting to pursue a less traditional career path?

EO: At first, they weren't so comfortable with it - they thought I was joking. But I wrote them a whole letter about my intentions on this path, showing them how serious I was and that I wasn't going to fold on what I wanted. Since then, they've been incredibly supportive, and I feel blessed to have that.

SA: I see you have a deep appreciation for herbs and natural healing (from what I’ve seen on your story ☺). How is this important to your personhood - as a creative, a Black woman, and as a person in general?

EO: Yesss! Learning more about herbal medicine has been the best thing I’ve ever done for myself, just because it brings me so much joy! For me, herbal medicine began when I was trying to revert my menstrual cycle back to being more regular, after having an irregular cycle for years. These doctors were trying to put me on birth control, and I said fuck no! I began finding different herbs to heal the womb, as well as beginning Yoni steaming and being more intentional in the means in which I heal myself. The whole learning process of natural healing and herbal medicine has been my biggest flex.

I think it’s so important for people - especially Black women - to know that there are many other alternatives than what has been given to us. It's just about doing the work and discovering what works for you. I've had doctors tell me that irregular periods and other bodily ailments were normal when they're not, and treated me and others as if there aren’t alternatives for healing your body.

Holistic medicine saved my life and has taught me so much about living in balance, respecting nature, and taking only what you need. Anything can be healed when you address the root of the problem and are disciplined in your healing journey.

SA: So, would you say there's a specific connection between art and health for you?

EO: I'd say in a way, there is. To me, making art is medicine within itself. Being on top of my health and in alignment with my body allows me to create better and be more in tune with my work, as well as more intentional in my processes.

SA: How has this pandemic changed how you maneuver your creative processes and how you view the world in relation to your art?

EO: I really miss working in the painting studio at school, but the pandemic forced me to re-evaluate how I see and utilize the space I do have. I turned half of my room into a mini studio space and it's been blessed ever since. I haven't been able to create really large scale works or work with mediums like oil paint, but over time, I’m finding new ways to manipulate other mediums. This pandemic has allowed my works more intuitive and expressive, rather than planned and structured.

SA: Ok, and lastly, if you had to give any advice to other creatives, specifically Black women, what would it be?

EO: Surrender to the process - let it teach you. Keep creating because you never know whose watching you. Trust yourself. Take each day as it comes and try not to compare yourself or your art to others because no one is YOU!

I love cold weather.

Incredibly ironic, considering I grew up in the Caribbean, but I digress. Cold weather is the season of puffer jackets, turtlenecks, and most importantly, jeans.

I’ve worn a school uniform for most of my life and the fit of khaki pants is a very far cry from denim. After moving to Minnesota, I realized leggings and sweats weren’t going to cut it for every day, and I graduated to those painfully elastic jeans from Target.

It was all fun and games for a while, until I realized that not only were they essentially denim print leggings (i.e. poor quality), but they were also not flattering to my apple-esque body shape. So, we regressed, and went back to sweatpants up until my second year of university.

Working in retail for a number of years (and my obsession with thrifting and clothing) has encouraged me to learn more about the different styles of denim, how to care for your denim, and – most importantly – creating a list of criteria to determine the perfect fit based on the look you’re going for.

This post is for all my people who want to find themselves a reliable pair of denim for the upcoming winter (and beyond!), and whether you thrift or buy from a big box store, this guide is relatively foolproof for finding the pair that will work for you.

Determine your fit

The first step in finding a pair of jeans that will become your holy grail pair is determining the look you’re going for, and the level of comfort you want. I prefer a baggier fit, but with something that still gives me some structure in the waist and hip area in order to balance out my upper and lower body. Some people may prefer a skinnier fit or something with a more flared or tapered leg. Whatever it is, do your research and play around with some styles to see if they’ll be flattering with the items you already have in your wardrobe and for your everyday life.  

Pay Attention to the Wash

This is another key. For some reason, dark wash denim is definitely more forgiving, light wash jeans have a tendency to emphasize your bum and legs, and black denim can be very hit or miss, but done right, can go with everything. My other piece of advice is to try a few different washes and see what you prefer. Most washes can go with any kind of clothing, but in my opinion, mom jeans look better in light wash, and skinny jeans gives a bit more structure in a darker indigo colour.

Research the composition

This is another important step in determining what kind of denim will be most comfortable, as well as what kind of denim will be the most realistic to take care of. I love a good pair of 100% cotton jeans – the most popular brand of these style of jeans being Levis – but if you move around a lot or require a pair of pants with a little bit more give, then you may want to look for jeans that have between 5-25% elastane. For non/low stretch jeans, try Levis, Wrangler, Rustler, Zara, and Faded Glory (even Walmart has some good, non-stretch denim for a relatively good price). For jeans with medium to high stretch, try Fashion Nova, American Eagle, and Levis 721s and Mile High Skinny.

Try it On

I feel like trends with jeans come and go, but it’s also important to make sure that the jeans you have in your rotation can be worn with a variety of outfits – specifically, the items in your wardrobe. If there’s a specific style you want to try before fully committing, find a similar style at your local thrift store and try it with some of your most worn outfits. This will help you determine if the style is flattering and what you’re going for before making a full on commitment (and if you decide you don’t like the jeans, most thrift stores have a 7-14 day exchange policy, but you can read more about that in my other post here).

Be Honest with Yourself

While this guide is all-inclusive, the fact that I put “big body” in the title should indicate that I’m writing for the thicker shorties out there, and this tip is probably one of the most important. Y’all. Every trend is not meant for every body. And that’s ok! Maybe you like the look of skinny jeans but not how they fit on your shape? Go for a straight leg, non/light stretch fit for a similar look with a bit more structure. If you want the baggy jean trend without looking too shapeless, go for a non-stretch jean one to two sizes up and get the waist altered for an effortless fit minus all the sagging. Finding the perfect jean takes time, especially if you’re midsized or plus sized, and that’s ok! Don’t be forcing things to fit just because you want to dress like everyone else.

Make Friends with a Tailor

Read that once. Now read it again.

Making friends with a good tailor is probably one of the biggest steps you can take to finding a good pair of jeans, as well as just getting the rest of your wardrobe in shape (especially if you’re someone who likes to thrift your clothing or shifts between sizes depending on the time of year). Clothes is not one-size-fits-all, regardless if that’s how it seems on social media. Fact of the matter is all things can do with a bit of adjusting. If you have weird gaps or bunching in your jeans, don’t be afraid to take it to a tailor and let them work their magic. Plus, paying an extra $10 to get a hem or waist altered, as opposed to paying out for a brand-new pair of jeans, is not only environmentally friendly, but will keep your pockets from hurting later on. Plus, a tailor can help you play around with trends (split hem, crossed buttons, slashes, and embroidery) without paying a fortune or sacrificing quality.

Take Care

So, you’ve found your perfect pair – you like the fit, the wash, they’re comfortable, and they were relatively affordable. But how do you take care of them? Most people will tell you that jeans are an item whos’ washings are meant to be few and far between. And their right. Unless they’re really dirty or the fit is starting to give out in places where it shouldn’t, your jeans should be washed only when needed. I like to machine wash mine with cool to warm water, and then dry on low heat. If you have the time, you can hand wash them and leave them to air dry (which usually doesn’t take more than 24-48 hours). This will preserve your jeans for as long as possible, and prevent fading, fraying, and other cosmetic damage.

This blog post is in collaboration with Envly, a black-owned, online platform promoting awareness, community, and sustainability. Thank you so much for the opportunity to collaborate on this post, and please make sure to follow and check out their page for updates on their amazing work!

I dare you to find me one person that doesn’t enjoy spending money on clothes, or who doesn’t feel even the smallest rush after buying a new pair of pants or shoes. However, in the progression towards adulthood, one should always strive to be ethical and live sustainably.

In high school, I began actively shopping in thrift stores, forgoing fast fashion and online retailers. I was able to find more clothing more aligned with my personal style, without breaking the bank, and participate in a more ethical source of consumerism. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve realized there are some brands that are notoriously hard to find second-hand (looking at you, Los Angeles Apparel), but I still find unexplainable joy in the thrift store experience.  

The average Canadian throws out 81 pounds (37 kilograms) of textiles annually – about the weight of a newborn calf1. Additionally, clothing sent to landfills is made using synthetic materials – think polyester, rayon, nylon, and acrylic - and when broken down, releases toxic gasses, such as carbon dioxide and methane gasses2. Additionally, modern capitalism is built off of exploitation and the use of sweatshop labour in countries such as Bangladesh and Honduras results in minimal wages, disregard for human wellbeing, and some sketchy business practices. If that isn’t enough (and you feel like looking closer to home), the California Bureau of Labour Statistics notes that the second largest work force in Los Angeles is the cut-and-sew labour force (read: textile and garment labourers). Of the 46,000 individuals who comprise this labour force, 71% of these individuals are immigrants3 – making textile production inherently anti-black and anti-POC.

But fret not! There are ways to get your shopping fix that are ethical and reduce the amount of textile waste greenhouse gas emission we put back into the planet. So, for some tips on how to be a sustainable shopper, keep reading4.

To the left, to the left (everything you own in a box to the left)

Between social media, fashion magazines, and subversive advertising, it can be hard to distinguish what in our closet we need, versus what we want (or what we’re told are “closet essentials”). Empty your closet and be objective about what you need and what you don’t. The baby t-shirt you kept that your grandmother gave you? Those warm sweats from high school with holes all through the bum? Leggings that are about 2 inches too short and are threadbare in the inner thigh? Toss, babes.

Create four piles – donate, toss, alterations, and keep. One way to simplify this process is to create a mood board (Pinterest is good for this) for a clothing style you like and would actually wear.

Another trick to help this process is to establish something of a personal uniform. Do you find yourself always gravitating towards denim and flannel combinations? Do you enjoy bright colours and unconventional silhouettes? Whatever it is, take the time that you need – I would recommend anywhere between 3 hours or three days – and get to it.

Keep a list and check it twice.

Now that you have a better idea of the state of your closet, create a list of pieces that you don’t currently own, but would wear quite regularly if you did. A plain black hoodie? A simple, going-out dress? A nice blazer for work? Add it all to a list and organize it whatever way you’d like – whether it’s whatever comes to mind first or in order of personal importance.

Preparation is key

 If shopping is a sport, then thrifting would be akin to a marathon. Before you head out, make sure you give yourself ample time to shop around and make informed, well-thought out decisions. New, COVID-era regulations have required many thrift stores to restrict the usage of their dressing rooms. To get around this, my favourite thrifting outfit has been things that mould to the body and are easy to try clothes on over; things like body suits, tank tops, biker shorts and leggings. Bring some headphones to really put yourself in the zone and make sure you have a fully charged phone battery – helpful for directions, checking sizing, and for the impromptu FaceTime call to friends to ask, “How do I look?”. Also make sure you understand a store’s return and exchange policy to avoid any unwanted purchases.

Go virtual

Kijiji is not just for sneaker resellers and creeps looking to prey on young women for affordable housing. When looking for more niche wardrobe essentials (think winter jackets, bags, and sneakers), apps like Envly, Poshmark, Kijiji, and Depop can be your best friend. My motto is someone, somewhere is always selling something that you want5. Don’t be shy to arrange meetups to save on shipping and price negotiations.

Do your research

Not all clothing is made the same, and while it may be nice to be oblivious to things such as material or authenticity of an item, it pays off in the long run. My favourite material is cotton, and while 100% cotton may not be cheap, it is more accessible than people would want you to believe – as well as better for the environment and easier to maintain. If you notice that a majority of clothing in your closet is a certain material, then try to stay within your comfort zone and be vigilant. Also make sure you read the care labels on your thrifted items! There’s nothing worse than throwing a cute item of clothing in the wash, only to have it shrink 3 sizes when you pull it out.

Sew what

Maybe you don’t need any new clothing, but you’ve held on to some ill-fitting items for too long. Don’t worry! Toronto is full of tailors with reputations that precede them, and for a decent price. Feel free to DM me for my favourites from Mississauga to Scarborough.

Patience

Before you head out to the thrift stores, understand that one of the sacrifices for sustainability is convenience. Thankfully, we have brands like Envly changing that, but with thrifting and second-hand shopping, it is important to remember you won’t find everything you want all at once. Unlike your favourite fast fashion brands, you won’t find everything you want on your list all at once, but feel free to look at your thrifting adventure like a treasure hunt – it’ll be more than worth the wait.

Sources

1 https://rco.on.ca/the-average-person-throws-away-37-kilograms-of-textiles-annually/

2 https://www.upworthy.com/9-reasons-you-shouldnt-throw-away-clothes-and-4-things-you-can-do-instead

3 https://www.forbes.com/sites/syamameagher/2020/02/05/the-not-so-hidden-ethical-cost-of-fast-fashion-sneaky-sweatshops-in-our-own-backyard/#644c8b5525d1

4 While these tips are focused around clothing, they can also be applied to home goods and entertainment, including furniture, appliances, electronics, and entertainment media.

If the title doesn’t say it all, let me say it again – welcome to the party (RIP Pop Smoke). Whatever kind of party this ends up being.

If it’s not painfully obvious from the informality of the first few sentences, I am very new to this blogging thing. But scared money don’t make no money so this introductory post is just to tell you a bit about myself and what I have to offer when y’all decide to step away from Instagram and Twitter and what not.

My name is Segen (as I’ve mentioned before). I’m a college senior, majoring in Political Science and minoring in Writing – there is a longer title for that minor, but we can just call it what it is – writing. Outside of academia, I enjoy second-hand shopping, watching cartoons and documentaries, writing, art, fashion, and just generally being a person alive in this world (most times).

This blog is (hopefully) going to be a collection of my thoughts and ideas, however mundane or inflammatory. As a triple fire sign, the oldest daughter in an immigrant family, and a black woman, I usually do have a lot to say.

In addition to this blog, some of my posts will have accompanying podcasts that can be found through the link in the description box. Some messages are better communicated through audible mediums as opposed to written ones, so if you’re the kind of person who prefers to listen to other people rambling in your ear instead of reading some words, then check it out.