garb attempts | a working bodice pattern
I'm working my way through developing my persona. But I do have the basics:
from roughly mid-16th century
English Father/Scottish Mother - Merchants
Parents died when she was 9 and was sent to be brought up by paternal uncle, Sir Galfrid le Webbe, a knight in a baron's household
Was treated as a foster, and now one of the baroness' ladies, working on sewing/stitches/embroidery for the household
What this ostensibly means is that my garb is mid-16th century mixed English/Scottish, with a proclivity to lean Scottish when the moon is right.
To that end, I've been working on a bodice pattern. I'm probably on #6 overall, but this garb was made using pattern #3. I think.
First, the fabric: I'm a big proponent of "use what you can find". I got the fabric for the bodice at the 2021 Holiday Faire in Atlantia. It was inexpensive, I think the entire bit of cloth was $5. And I still have a bit left over that I could use to make a coif or a pouch or both.
Second, the peplum: I think it's about 10 inches from edge to connection with the bodice. And that's about as wide as I want it to be, doing a Highland bodice. I've got a very long torso and shorter legs. So, really, it should be shorter than that to make the proportions look good. I do like how it looks from the side in the back. And that's not padding. I've got a sway back, so my butt pushes it out.
Third, the skirt: I'd actually made this first, and have had it for a while. I love it, and even enjoy the length. However, for my purposes, it may need to be at least an inch shorter. I don't want to trip on it while not paying attention and walking over grass. I also might want to wear some kind of petticoat under this, so that the skirt gets some support. The linen here is very flowy, and while it sits pretty, the material of the bodice is much more structured on it's own.
Fourth and last, the armscye: There's two issues here. The first is how high it is into my armpit. I've fixed it in subsequent patterns, and it's fine, I cut it down to sit at the same level as a bra, and now the shirt/shift has some more room to move and it doesn't bunch or pinch. The second issue is the strap. I keep making this mistake, so I think it's a me thing, but the strap isn't sitting properly on my shoulder. it's at an angle. That's fairly easy to fix from the back, but not from the front. I may need to just re-draft the strap from the front. Or treat it more like an English kirtle, and have the strap be a separate piece, then connect it to the front and the back, at least until I can check the fit and re-draw it. Which would also mean changing the neckline in the back. *SIGH* I really liked that V-shape. Maybe I can bring it back once I get more practice in.
I will say, I'm making this post after I've already tried making bodice pattern #4 and #5. So, the straps are still an issue. HOWEVER, I haven't made #6 yet, so I can still correct that pattern before I make anything with it, so number 7 won't have the same issues. Right? RIGHT??? *SIGH*
