Casual fashion in music beyond Oasis
Some think Oasis brought back the surge in Adidas. I'd say British music has always embraced it.
Here we are, a year since the Oasis reunion kicked off last July in Cardiff, dotting the city in matching bucket hats, cagoules and anoraks, slacks and trainers. This time round, the craze wasnât confined to the UK: come the final weekend of August, right here in Toronto, you couldnât move for Oasis band tees, track jackets and bucket hats. Oasis partnered with Adidas and had their own custom jackets and hats made specially for the reunion. The question was put to me: have Oasis made athleticwear fashionable again?
Now, Iâm not a fashion historian. I am a music journalist. But I was here in 2023 when we all collectively freaked out over Blur singer Damon Albarn's replica of the jacket he wore in the 1994 music video for the song âGirls & Boysâ, now custom remade by FILA specially for him for the bandâs pinnacle 2023 Wembley reunion show.
Damon Albarn in the âGirls & Boysâ music video in 1994 wearing FILA
Albarn at Wembley stadium in 2023 wearing the FILA custom replica.
So I suspect this didnât start, or come back with Oasis.
Its origins go back to the 1970s and even a little beyond that. It comes from working class football fashion in the UK, and was particularly prevalent in the north around Liverpool and Manchester initially, a subculture known as the casuals. Wikipedia associates it with âthe wearing of expensive designer clothing and hooliganism.â Famously, we remember the cultural differences of the two opposing subcultures of the 60s: the mods vs. the rockers; later in the 70s, it was the punks vs. the ageing hippies. The casuals were almost the bridge between the two eras.
Casual culture is actually associated with fairly high-end brands: it was the era of designer sportswear. Youâd see kids in Burberry, Lacoste, Fred Perry, brands youâd maybe expect to see more at Wimbledon or the golf these days than up Old Trafford or Wembley. Sportswear had been around since the 1920s, since tennis began introducing special garments and dress codes, but they were never this popular in the past. In the 1920s, there was a political party that called themselves the Men's Dress Reform Party that campaigned in the UK for more relaxed everydaywear, to change menswear to more casual, sporting garments. It was short-lived and not very popular. Yes, I love Derek the menswear guy. But you can read more about these guys here.
Fierce football rivalries have always dictated that when it comes to slagging off a rival team, nothing was off-limits, certainly not what they wore. Look at the fans of our rivals, they canât even afford decent clobber! What kind of fans are that. Their shoes are crap. Nothing like our fans, who are always dressed smart. Casual fashion started with kids on the dole looking for cheap, fashionable stuff to wear when going out to football away games.
So you might wonder, how did these working class kids afford the designer jackets? (Itâs not too different to asking, for example, how the mods afforded their sleek suits. Some have argued that there was never a period when young people had more disposable income relative to what they were earning than in the 60s, the golden decade of the teenager (/young adult). It may well have continued to be the case for the kids of the 70s, but thatâs not the overwhelming narrative of casual fashion.)
At the turn of the decade, the 1970s look was falling out of fashion and the once-popular athleticwear was relegated to charity shops in the 80s, which were frequented by a lot of younger, working class kids. Itâs worth remembering that the 1980s find us in Thatcherâs Britain: many of these young kids, especially in the parts of northern England, were broke or on the dole. They were pretty much exclusively styling themselves at charity shops and surplus stores, and what they stocked dictated the look at the time.
Thatâs where the acid house and Madchester kids got into them. Oasisâ Noel Gallagher was a teenager in the 1980s. In an interview with the jacket-centred channel LifeJacket in 2024 (published 2025), Noel recounted how he and friendsâincluding members of Happy Mondaysâwould look to find clothes for away matches in army surplus stores, discount and charity shops, and how certain brands became synonymous with the casual look.
The bands of the late 80s and 90s set the trends for fashion for the 90s, and music media started seeing the cagoule as the coolest look. As the Britpop era gained national prominence, its influence meant that the casual look spread everywhere.
Here are just a few examples in popular music where many eyeballs would be on the jacket: thereâs Tim Burgess, lead singer of The Charlatans, backstage at Knebworth in 1996 sporting a Spiewak jacket, Tim Burgess in the music video for The Charlatans song âHow Highâ, a jacket Tim has been asked about so many times that he launched a replica in 2022.
Over in Wales, Oasisâ Creation labelmates Super Furry Animalsâ singer Gruff Rhys can be seen in the music video for âHermann Loves Paulineâ (1997) in a cagoule. Thereâs Damon Albarn with discontinued FILA jacket in âGirls & Boysâ.
There are Liam Gallagher and Robbie Williams at Glastonbury 1995, and the ol' Adidas rears its head. Damon Albarn in a Kappa tracksuit jacket and a Chelsea hat. Liam in Adidas and a Kangol hat at the Britpop football charity match in 1996, and Liam in 1997 on stage in a Berghaus jacket. The label partnered with Liam to relaunch an inspired jacket in 2024.
Labels in Europe like the Italian CP Company and Stone Island became really popular in the UK. But Adidas ended up having a special connection to the UK music and fashion scenes, courtesy of a designer they began consulting in the 1990s, Gary Aspden.
Aspden has been working with artists for years. In the â90s, he joined the entertainment marketing team at Adidas, and the role made him the go-between contact of the brand and pop culture stars. He was approached by bands like Oasis and Super Furry Animals to make bespoke jackets and shoes. He designed custom tracksuits for Beastie Boys for their 2005 tour. For Oasisâ reunion tour, the band partnered with him to make his Adidas Spezial collection of hats and shoes, and while Gary heads his own independent design consulting agency nowadays, Oasis partnered with his old employers Adidas for the sportswear merch that was available at their gigs and the popup merch shops.
2005 Beastie Boys world tour custom jackets, first conceptualised backstage at Wembley stadium.
Oasis x Adidas Live 25 merch for the reunion tour.
As for âWhy Gary?â
Moving beyond jackets, Gary was also the champion of shoes. He launched Adidasâ Spezial line in 2014, after all. This came up recently in an interview with the late Mani from Stone Roses, who were a band that were at the exact midpoint of a lot of different Manchester scenes at the same time: they were going to raves and clubs, they had a touch of that acid house on the rhythm section for sure. They were still Northern Soul boys, because that was the music also being played in their clubs. They all went to the football matches and wore the athleticwear. They were perfectly between Madchester of the 80s with the Happy Mondays and Charlatans, and the indie bands that would precede Britpop: Inspiral Carpets, The La's (Liverpool not Manchester, I know), even early Blur in the Leisure years (1990-91). So they combined a few different influences all at once, no doubt also in their dressing sense.
In fact, in the interview, Mani talks about how they were not bikers or mods (the mods and the rockers were the two major subcultures of the 60s and 70s), they were âscooter boysâ. Vespas (which is hilarious to me because those are the motorbikes my mum tells me she learned to ride on in the 90s). It influenced their style, marked them out and influenced the people they hung out with too, hereâs the full episode.
More on casual shoes though. Take this clip, taken from the above-mentioned Rockonteurs podcast, Gary Kemp from Spandau Ballet, from the New Romantic movement in the 80s, a little too late for indie 90s as the bandâs career was almost over by then and Gary was moving to LA by 1991, which did not hear a peep about UK subcultures, their music or fashion at the time, and Guy Pratt, whoâd been playing bass with Pink Floyd (and many other high profile musicians) since ages.
Rumour has it that Reni, drummer in the Stone Roses was the first person to wear a bucket hat (apparently to bed??)
But in popularising the Casual look in music on stage, they credit Nick Mason, drummer in Pink Floyd, of all bands. He is credited as being the first seen wearing Adidas trainers on stage, as seen in a close-up photo of his foot on the bass drum pedal. The picture is from the UFO Club, so 1967 if Iâve looked this up right. Which goes well back beyond the stipulated late 70s to mid-80s period that is the usual estimated Casual era!
[Pic via 80s Casuals Official on Twitter]
Then a few weeks after Pink Floydâs gigs at the UFO, John Lennon was seen sporting the same trainers.
After that, the next big band seen wearing Adidas on stage, surprisingly, were Queen. They had white Europa Adidas trainers with black stripes. Those shoes were also then apparently seen worn by David Gilmour in the early 80s.
Another reason for the popularity of anoraks, cagoules and parkas are much more practical: in rainy England (and an even wetter Wales), why wouldnât rainjackets be popular? They were the epitome of practical fashion. So I argue, they never went out of style, especially in the UK. Perhaps the Oasis reunion made a lot of people pick out their jackets from their wardrobes and wear them with pride, especially outside of Europe. Today, the baton gets passed down to young, hip artists of the 2020s: here CP Company talk to Conor Deegan of Fontaines D.C. for their Behind The Seams campaign.
And to finish, hereâs a full 45-minute interview on LifeJacket at the release of the Spezial range with the man himself, Gary Aspden.
















