Small Pet Respect

Do you love Mango? Do you love rainbow chickens (AKA sun conures)? Of course you do! And this Giving Tuesday I challenge you to help Mango’s species by donating to the Keep the Suns Shining in Guyana experiment! 

What is the experiment? From their page: 

“The Sun Conure, Aratinga solstitialis, is vanishing. Wildlife trafficking has nearly eliminated this beautiful bird from Guyana. We will construct a breeding facility and identify captive birds in the pet trade that are descended from birds captured in Guyana to serve as founders for a reintroduction program. We will prepare the foundation of a scientifically sound, tourism compatible conservation breed and release program for this iconic species.”

Please check out their page and watch their video which is excellent and far more entertaining than it has any right to be. They’ve got tons more info there!

BUT there’s only 3 days left for the campaign and they are only about halfway funded. 

If you love birds and love my content, I ask you, Birblr, to be the force of good I know you are this Tuesday. Conservation efforts such as these mean so much to me and are crucial to conservation. 

So please help spread the word! Donate, reblog, signal boost! Share with friends and family! Blast it on social media! There’s only a few days left! 

If you haven’t ordered a Pepper and Mango shirt yet, now’s the time! For a limited time only, using the discount code BIRDBREAD on Level Up Studios will get you 25% off your order! 

Get a Pepper shirt here

Get a Mango shirt here

Each comes with a card “signed” by the birds and a portion of the sales go into my vet fund! 

So I recently I’ve got a new bill put on me that I wasn’t expecting and I’m trying to pay it by taking commissions. I’m offering 6 and half by 4 inch bird portraits for $15 each. These are colored pencil and watercolor on watercolor paper. Later I may expand, but as of right now I am only drawing birds and only doing portraits like the ones you see above. More examples here. 

For your $15 you will be mailed the actual piece and of course you’ll get a bonus Pepper/Mango autograph! 

I’m opening six slots right now, and once those are finished, if people are still interested, I will open another six slots. To start the process, you must: 

Email me at [email protected] with the subject line Parrot Portraits. I will send you back a couple questions about your bird as well as the email address to send payment to through PayPal. After I have been sent both payment and the answered questions, I will start on your piece. I will do them in the order I receive both from first. 

Got a call today from someone wanting to buy 30 Glofish (for those who don’t know, these are genetically modified fish that are bright neon colors). Asks the price ($9).

Suspicious, I ask what these fish are for. The customer dodges my question for a bit, but after asking enough times she tells me they’re for centerpieces for an event. She wants to stick tetras in vases in the middle of tables for a kid’s party.

I kindly tell her we don’t sell fish for event decorations, and we part our merry ways on the phone.

-I will do all the proper research necessary, not only on bird ownership, but on the particular species I intend to own. I will do more than just use a search engine. I will read, I will probe, I will ask questions. I will learn all the requirements. 

-I will provide the biggest cage I can afford that meets or exceeds the cage requirements for my bird’s species. 

-Within that cage I will provide proper toys, perches, and accessories. The cage will be placed in a safe, comfortable place within my home. 

-This cage will be cleaned often and not allowed to become unsanitary. 

-I will provide a proper diet for my bird. One that insures their continued health. I understand this may require food preparation, including bird-safe fruits and vegetables. I will provide fresh food and water daily. I will not allow food or water dishes to become unsanitary. 

-I will search out avian vets and provide vet care when necessary. 

-I understand that birds are long-lived. I will provide a loving, safe forever home for my bird as long as they live. I know that I may have this bird through different stages of my life and I agree to find ways to continue to care for my bird despite that.

-I will require those within my life including spouses, partners, parents, roommates, family, and guests to support me in my efforts for quality care for my bird. I will ask that they respect my bird. Those I invite into my life will understand that my bird and I are a package deal. 

-However, in the event that something unpredictable occurs that prevents me from providing proper care, (for example if I become ill) I will find my bird a new home that meets the same standards of care I have, or I will find a reputable rescue to surrender my bird to. I will not abandon my bird or leave it in unsafe care. 

-I understand that birds are smart, sensitive creatures that require enrichment in various forms. I will provide this via daily time outside of the cage, a multitude of toys both inside and out of the cage, and daily attention. I will research ways to stave off boredom for my bird. This can include force-free, positive reinforcement training.I will respect my bird and their intelligence. 

-I understand that birds communicate largely through the use of vocals. I know that birds, no matter the species, are not quiet animals. I know that an always silent bird is impossible. I know that different species have different noise levels. I will take this into consideration in my research. 

-I understand that birds are messy creatures. I know that messes will be made that I must clean, even outside the cage. This will include bird dander. This may require buying equipment like an air purifier. 

-I understand that birds can be destructive. I know that larger birds have bigger beaks capable of damaging housing and valuables. Even smaller birds may damage jewelry and clothing. I know that destruction of property left within the bird’s reach is my own fault. 

-I understand that I will get bitten. I know that my bird’s beak is one of the biggest ways they explore the world. I know that biting is also used to communicate. I will not take it personally when bitten. I will learn to read my birds body language to anticipate when a bite is likely. 

-I understand most species of birds are not truly domesticated. I will be sensitive to this fact. I will not try to correct behavioral problems with violence, yelling, or neglect. I will attempt to see things from my bird’s perspective. 

-I will unconditionally love my bird, even if they are not the perfect pet. Even if my bird never learns to talk, or perform tricks, I will love my bird. Even if my bird never takes to petting or becomes fully tame, I will love and care for my bird. My bird’s right to a good, safe home is not dependent on fulfillment of my expectations of what would make them a good pet. 

-I will not place my animals in unsafe situations for any reason. This includes placing my bird with any predators, even other pets, for any amount of time. This includes unsafely taking my bird outside without a harness or cage. I will learn of dangers to my bird, like Teflon, and I will ensure my bird is safely away from such things. 

-I will not disregard or minimize my bird’s importance due to any factor. Not even size or price. No bird is more important than another in my home. I understand that while some birds may have more lax requirements, this does not mean that quality care is sacrificed. I will not get a bird as simply a “starter bird” on my way to working up to a bigger bird. All are equally important. 

-I will always continue my education when it comes to birds and their care. I will carefully consider constructive criticisms and strive to provide the best care possible. I realize that I am all my bird has. I know that living does not mean thriving. My goal is for my bird to thrive, not merely live, and I will never stop learning when it comes to this endeavor. 

-I may make mistakes, especially as a new bird owner, but I will learn from my mistakes and I will not give up on myself or my bird. 

Ways to keep your bunnies cool in hot weather! n_n

1. Fans make for good airflow but don’t direct it straight at the cage

2. Leafy greens like lettuce do not make a good lunch but are great for hydration!

3. Old plumbing pipes, bricks and ceramic tiles hold the cool very well and bunnies like to press against them

4. A damp towel is lovely to lay on

5. Frozen water bottles are the best - especially when you put it in the bunny houses to make for a cool room!

6. Bunnies get rid of heat through their ears. Gently spray hot bunny ears to help them cool down - don’t get water in the ears D:

Warning signs:

A hot bunny breathes fast and has pink ears. A hot bunny in distress will be on it’s side breathing really fast and nose wiggling.

Put bunny on a wet towel. Take another wet towel and wet the ears. Wet the towel and slowly cool the whole bunny down. Do not put the bunny in very cold water. If bunny is not cooling down, go to the vet.

Let’s talk about lights!

The “sunbeam” or “patch of sun” method of UVb lighting strives to emulate a more wild-type photo-environment for sun-worshiping lizards.

First - Thermal Imaging showing the heat gradient in Peppers enclosure. IR thermometers are helpful to map out the thermal gradient. Placement of lights and physical barriers like the logs helps cast cool shadows. It’s even cooler in the soil.

Second - Placement of the T5-HO UVB near the heat lights gives a photo-gradient that matches with the thermal gradient. This allows for regulation of UV exposure in a more natural way - lower in the shade/cool areas and highest where it’s hottest. The overlay is a 2D estimate from Dr. Frances Baines ISO-irradiance charts and is a bit difficult to line up exactly on a 3D image. It is pretty close to the measurements I get with my solarmeter though.

Finally - A summary of the popular florescent tubes and the relative strength vs distance for several configurations. My hope is this can be helpful for folks when setting up their UV lights as an estimate. For reference, bearded dragons are Zone 3 Baskers, though this method can and does apply to other herps based on their self selected exposure levels I don’t have a list of them. (All values are approximations as reported by Dr. Baines and intended as reference values - individual results may vary!)

‘Well MY gecko is too smart to eat sand! he wouldn’t do that, so it’s okay’

or

‘Well MY cat is too smart to go on the roads, so we let her out!’

or

‘Well maybe lizards can’t be cohabitated but MY lizards love each other/were raised together etc so it’s okay!’

We all want to think our animal is special, because it’s ours! And they are to us of course, but not in a way that puts them above the risks that apply to the species.

Your animals are not cuddling; they literally do not have the brain anatomy to ‘love’ one another, they’re competing for resources no matter how cute they look or how long they’ve been raised together. Your cat is no smarter (or luckier) than any other cat, and it can and will get hit by a car if you let it outside unsupervised. Geckos biologically lick their surroundings to gather information. That’s what the species itself does, the intelligence of your individual gecko does not change that, and it will ingest sand and die from it. 

relaxed vs upset poses and a common behavior list! this post was suggested by the lovely kaijutegu may have forgot some things but I tried my best! 

pancake: when a beardie flattens their body out. this is to better absorb heat and UVB. they will often turn their body toward the sun or heat source before flattening out.

fat balloon: often accompanied by puffing the beard and/or gaping, but not always. balloon behavior points toward your lizard being angry, upset, or feeling threatened. though sometimes they seem to do it for no reason.

opening mouth: mostly happens when they’re out in the sun or under their basking light. this means they’re regulating their temperature. if your beardie is opening their mouth a lot under their basking area you may want to double check the temps. 

gaping: an open mouth, but the reason is different. gaping is done when the lizard feels upset or threatened. they are giving a warning to the offender to back off or they will bite if need be.

biting: if the bite isn’t an accident during feeding, this lets you know your lizard sees you as a possible threat and isn’t comfortable around you yet.

puffing out beard: can mean they are upset, but in captivity they may just be stretching their beard. if it’s puffed out and black in color, they are likely upset by something.

head bobbing: the lizard is trying to show you or another animal that they are the dominant one.

waving arm: a submissive action, showing the lizard recognizes you or another animal as a superior. 

sexy leg: the common term in the hobby for when the lizard stretches one or more of their legs out. this is also a sign they’re relaxed and comfortable, in geckos it’s called “sleepy feets”!

eye bulging: commonly thought to be associated with shedding, but not always, it can occur even when the lizard is not in shed. this behavior looks very concerning but is completely normal.

first off if you think your bearded dragon might run off and get lost you should invest in a harness for them to ensure that doesn’t happen!

to get your lizard used to outside, make sure you can control them INSIDE first. make sure they’re comfortable and used to you inside before you attempt to take them out.

when you take your beardie outside, sit down with them in the grass or wherever and place them on your lap. let them sit there for as long as they want to get used to the sights, sounds, smells. if they choose to get down in the grass that’s alright, but keep a good eye on them.

if they decide to walk through the grass, walk alongside them as they go.

when taking your lizard outside it’s very important to know the plants around your area and which are safe and which are toxic. here is a list of toxic plants in addition to plants, watch for outside bugs. your beardie should never be consuming outside bugs. watch out in particular for lightning bugs, these can very easily kill your beardie even if just ONE is ingested.

monitor the area for any animals or your own dogs/cats/etc that might decide to attack your lizard. even if you’re sure they “get along” it can still happen, better safe than sorry

allowing your lizard outside time is the greatest way to get them UVB! but make sure they have access to a shady area if they choose to get out of the sun, especially if they’re opening their mouth (this means they’re a bit too hot and trying to regulate their temp)

It is important to have one. Save your money for any emergencies that may happen to your pets. In my opinion, if you have pets, save money from your paycheck, birthday, allowances, etc. You do not need to be spending all your money on things you do not need. That $9 (how much it is locally here) for a movie ticket, can be saved to go towards the savings. You can still have a social life without spending a lot of money. Work part-time to help. Cut back on certain items that are not important. Why let your pet suffer when it gets sick because you did not have the funds?

This is a reason why I save a bit from every paycheck after paying bills. I only work part-time and make a small amount but as a pet owner of different animals, I have to take care of them the best I can. (Mind, I have been working since I was 16 and throughout college, so school should not be stopping you from a part-time job unless you are in internships, volunteer work,etc.; I had classmates that had one or two jobs, families, and still went to school full-time with social lives). 

Axolotls (ambystoma mexicanum) are not fish, but neotenic salamanders! They have the (very cute) gilled look of salamander larvae, but never metamorphose onto land. Essentially they’re rebellious teenagers who told evolution they were never going to grow up.

They are freshwater, and can grow up to 12 inches long and live for up to 15 years when well taken care of! They are more what I would consider an intermediate pet, with specific temperature requirements, and a prior knowledge of aquatic keeping highly recommended.