Hello! And a belated Boston cream pie birthday cake
What do you say after a long hiatus? There are the excuses for the time away--the busy life with a toddler, finishing residency, finding a job, and moving! There are the days, weeks, and sometimes months in which cooking something tried and true is more appealing than something new.
But every once in a while, there is something that pulls me out of the lull to try something new, and every once in a blue moon, something that pushes me to write about it.
In this case, I was obliging the annual tradition to bake a birthday cake for Nathan. We recently moved from Boston to Seattle, and I thought this recipe from my favorite bakery in Boston was a nice nod to the decade of life we lived together there. I'll admit that I'm not the biggest fan of Boston cream pie. It can be overly sweet, thick, and heavy to eat. But, this cake captures the pie's flavors while being sophisticated.
Between the four layers of coffee syrup-infused sponge cake is a pastry cream that is lightened by whipped cream. The chocolate ganache that covers the cake top adds a nice decorative finish that also complements the sweetness of the cake. I love how you can prepare the majority of the cake a few weeks in advance of your event, so that even when you are a sniffly, congested, sneezing mess, you have just enough energy to make the ganache and spread it over the cake for your significant other's birthday.
And oh, our little toddler also loved this cake. We ate it over three days and had to remind him after we finished the cake that no, we do not get to eat cake every day. This took about a week to finally get into his sweet little head. And of course, it will be undone again in about a month when I plan to make it again for his and his grandfather's birthday.
From Joanne Chang's flour, too
Sponge cake
4 large eggs, separated, plus 3 egg whites
1 cup/200 g granulated sugar
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
3/4 cup/90 g all-purpose flour
Pinch of kosher salt
Cake-soaking syrup
1/3 cup/80 ml hot brewed coffee
1/3 cup/70 g granulated sugar
Pastry cream (can be prepared ahead of time)
1 1/4 cups/300 g milk
1/2 cup/100 g granulated sugar
1/4 cup/30 g cake flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
4 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Chocolate ganache
4 ounces/115 g semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup/120 ml heavy cream
Other ingredients
1 cup/240 ml heavy cream
To make the sponge cake
Preheat the over to 350 degrees F and place a rack in the middle of the oven. Line a 13-by-18 inch baking sheet with parchment paper.
Using a stand mixer, beat together the egg yolks, 1/4 cup/50 g of the sugar, and the lemon juice on high speed for at least 6-8 minutes, or until thick and doubled in volume. Stop the mixer once or twice and scrape down the sides of the bowl and the whisk to ensure the sugar and yolks are evenly mixed. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
Clean the bowl and the whisk attachment. They must be spotlessly clean. Beat the egg whites on medium speed for 2-3 minutes with a stand mixer, or until soft peaks form. Keep beating until you can see the tines of the whisk leave a slight trail in the whites. When you lift the whisk out of the whites, the whites should peak and then droop.
With the mixer on medium speed, add the remaining 3/4 cup/150 g sugar very slowly, a spoonful at a time, taking about 1 minute to add all of the sugar. Continue beating on medium speed for 2-3 minutes longer, or until the whites are glossy and shiny and hold a stiff peak when you slowly lift the whisk straight up and out of the whites.
Using a rubber spatula, gently fold about 1/3 of the whipped egg whites into the yolk mixture to lighten it. Then, gently fold in the remaining egg whites. Sift the flour and salt together over the top of the mixture and fold in gently until the flour is completely incorporated. Pour the batter into the prepared baking sheet.
Using an offset spatula, carefully spread the batter evenly to cover the entire baking sheet. Concentrate on spreading the batter toward the corners and edges of the pan. It is important that the cake is the same thickness throughout for baking. Bake the cake for 18 to 24 minutes, rotating by 180 degrees about halfway through baking. The top should be a pale golden brown and springs back when pressed int he center with your fingertips and the cake doesn't stick to your fingers. Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for about 5 minutes.
Run a parking knife around the edge of the still-warm cake to release it from the sides of the baking sheet. Invert the cake onto a cutting board lined with parchment paper. Carefully peel off the parchment on the bottom of the cake and allow the cake to cool completely. Using a knife, cut the cake in half crosswise and then in half lengthwise. You should now have 4 cake layers measuring about 5 1/2 by 8 inches. Cut a cardboard so that its dimensions are just slightly larger than the cake layer dimensions. (I wrapped the cardboard with foil.)
To make the soaking syrup
In a small bowl, stir together the coffee and syrup until the sugar has dissolved.
Using a pastry brush, brush the top of all 4 cake rectangles evenly with the soaking syrup, using up all the syrup.
To make the pastry cream
In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium-high heat until scalded (i.e. small bubbles form along the sides of the pan). While the milk is heating, in a small bowl, stir together the sugar, flour, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks until blended, then slowly whisk in the flour mixture. The mixture will be thick and pasty.
Remove the milk from the heat and slowly add it to the egg-flour mixture, a little at a time, while whisking constantly. When all the milk has been incorporated, return the contents of the bowl to the saucepan and heat over medium heat; whisk continuously and vigorously, for about 3 minutes, or until the mixture thickens and comes to a boil. As the mixture cooks, it will slowly start to thicken. Once it thickens, stop whisking every few seconds to see if the mixture has come to a boil. If not, keeping whisking vigorously. As soon as you see it bubbling, immediately go back to whisking for just 10 seconds, and then remove the pan from the heat.
Pour, push, and scrape the mixture through a sieve into a small, heatproof bowl. Stir in the vanilla and then cover with plastic wrap, placing it directly on the surface of the cream to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or until cold. The cream can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days in an airtight container.
Assembling the cake
Place one cake layer, syrup-side up, on the prepared cardboard rectangle. In a medium bowl, using a mixer or a whisk, whip the heavy cream until it holds very firm, stiff peaks. Fold in the pastry cream until well combined. Using the offset spatula, spread about 1/3 of the cream mixture over the cake layer. Be sure to spread the cream out to the edges of the cake to make it the best-looking cake possible.
Place a second cake layer, syrup-side up, on top of the cream layer and press down gently so the cake layer is level. Using the offset spatula, spread about half of the remaining cream mixture over the cake layer. Again, spread the cream a bit thicker along the edge of the rectangle to prevent the final cake from doming.
Place a third cake layer, syrup-side up, on top of the cream and press down slightly to level the cake. Spread the remaining cream mixture over the cake. Top fate cake with the final cake layer, syrup-side up, and press down gently so that the top layer is flat. Lightly wrap the cake with plastic wrap, place in the freezer, and freeze for about 8 hours or up to overnight, until it is frozen solid. The cake can then be well wrapped and frozen for up to 2 weeks.
At least 3 hours in advance of serving, remove the cake from the freezer and place it onto a cutting board. Using a knife, trim the edges of the cake so that they are neat and even.
Place the cake on its cardboard base onto a cooling rack set on a baking sheet. Make the chocolate ganache by placing the chocolate in a small, heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, heat the cream over high heat until scalded. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let sit for 30 seconds. Slowly risk the chocolate and cream together until the chocolate is completed melted and the mixture is smooth.
Poor the warm ganache over the top of the cake. Using the offset spatula, spread the ganache in an even layer. It will begin to firm up right away when it hits the cold cake, so work quickly to even the surface. Let the excess ganache drip down the sides of the cake, leaving some parts of the cake exposed. You can then transfer the cake to a serving plate. Let the cake thaw at room temperature before serving.
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This is a weekend, one-pot meal when you want something easy, hearty, and that will last several days. It's packed with vegetables (green bell pepper, tomatoes) and protein (ground turkey, beans). We assemble the pot of chili in the afternoon and let it simmer for several hours; while it cooks, we do all the things you're supposed to do on a Sunday afternoon: play with little N, fold some laundry, have little N Face Time with his grandparents, and generally lounge (or at least, as much as you can with a 17 month old).
We've made this turkey chili several times already this winter. We love that half of the meal is the chili and the other half is what you put on top of it. It's an excuse to have tortilla chips and avocado for dinner (or straight from the bowl).
I don't use chili powder in my recipe, but instead rely on paprika and cumin, two of my favorite savory spices. Since cumin sometimes loses some of its flavor in the cooking process, you may need to add a bit more at the end, depending on your taste. Adobo chili also adds a nice depth of flavor and warmth. Go easy with the adobo chili liquid, though. A little goes a long way, and you can always add a little more at the end if you still want a bit more of a kick.
While this started off as a recipe from Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything, I've cooked and tweaked the recipe enough times now that I call it my own.
Recipe
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium to large onion, finely diced
1-2 teaspoons paprika
1 pound ground turkey (we prefer dark over white meat, but you can use any ground meat that suits your taste)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
28 ounce can of crushed or pureed tomatoes (San Marzano tomatoes preferred)
1 green bell pepper, cored and chopped into 1/2- to 1-inch pieces
2 15 ounce cans of beans (dark red kidney beans, light red kidney beans, or pinto beans), rinsed
1 adobo chili with some of the liquid
1-2 teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped fresh cilantro for garnish
In a large pot such as a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. When hot, add the onion and allow to cook until soft, about 8-10 minutes. Add the garlic, season with paprika and some salt, and stir to mix.
Add the turkey and cook, stirring, until all the meat has lost its color, about 10 minutes. Season the meat with salt, pepper, cumin, and oregano leaves.
Add the tomatoes, bell pepper, beans, adobo chili and enough water to cover all the ingredients (conveniently, the 28 ounce can of tomatoes also holds a perfect amount of water). When the chili has reached a boil, cover partly, and turn the heat down to low. Allow to simmer for 2-3 hours, stirring every so often. Taste once more before serving. If needed, you can add a bit more cumin or salt as needed. If you like your chili more soupy, add some water to thin it out. We like ours a bit thicker and chunky.
The chili can be garnished with a variety of options including cilantro, shredded cheese, sliced avocado, crushed corn tortilla chips, or even oyster crackers.
Every once and a while, you need to cook a nice meal for yourself. I'm a big fan of this. These generously sized sea scallops are meant for a meal-for-one when your significant other is away on a business trip; when you need a little pampering; or when these locally harvested scallops beckon to you at Whole Foods.
For me, all the reasons fit the bill. At $24 per pound, these five scallops cost a whopping $12, but they admittedly would cost at least twice that in a restaurant. Served with a lemon-based sauce and capers, the scallops were creamy and sweet and a treat for a weekday meal.
Adapted from Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything
This isn't a firm recipe, but rather a guideline. The nice thing about scallops is that they are so flexible and delicious, as long as you do not overcook them!
Sea scallops (0.5 pounds in my case)
Juice of 1 lemon (I used the remaining wedges of a lemon that we used a few days ago for salmon)
1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1-2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1-2 teaspoons capers
1-2 tablespoons chopped parsley (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
In a saucepan over medium heat, add the extra virgin olive oil and butter. When almost hot, add the garlic and 30 seconds later, the scallops. Allow the scallops to sear for at least 2 minutes on one side (a little longer if the scallops are quite large) before you flip them over to sear the other side. Be sure to season each side with salt and pepper.
Remove the scallops from the pan and store in a bowl. With the pan on medium heat, add the lemon juice into the pan and deglaze by scrapping the bottom of the pan to get the brown bits. This will be the sauce for your scallops.
Add the capers and a sprinkling of salt. The scallops can be added back at this time and allowed to cook in the sauce for another 1-2 minutes.
Alternatively, if you would like this over pasta, cook the pasta until just al dente, taking out the pasta 1 minute before the recommended time. Reserve about 1/2 cup of pasta water for the sauce. Before you add the scallops back into the lemon sauce, add the pasta and parsley, toss, and allow to cook for about a minute. Add pasta water if you think it looks a little dry. Season with salt and pepper as needed. Plate the pasta and return the scallops back into the pan with the remaining sauce. Allow the scallops to cook for 1-2 minutes and then place on top of the pasta. Serve immediately.
I've been on a little nut binge recently: toasted almonds or pecans, nut bars from a local bakery, and now today, these mixed-nut brittle. Even simply toasted to a golden brown, nuts have such a satisfying texture and flavor. They are perfect for my habit of nibbling on something while I work.
Last night, I came across this recipe in Joanne Chang's Flour cookbook and immediately decided to make these today as a hostess gift. Little N attended his first birthday party as a guest gnome! His friend G's parents had gone all out for her one-year birthday: gnome hats, balloons, games, gnome snacks (they evidently like carrot and celery sticks, goldfish crackers, and carrot cake cupcakes with cream cheese frosting), little pots of seed packets and a lollipop as a favor, and one adorably cute gnome-dressed birthday girl!
While little N brought his gift for G, and I brought this small, sweet celebratory treat for G's parents, who arguably should be throwing this party as much for them as they are for G.
I have minimal, if any, experience with brittle, but these were delicious! After toasting whole almonds, hazelnuts, and cashews, you make a syrup with sugar, water, and light corn syrup that turns a golden brown after boiling for 10-15 minutes. In addition to nuts, you then add some butter, salt, vanilla extract, and finally baking soda. The baking soda causes the syrup and nuts to foam and introduces air into the mixture. The sticky mass is transferred onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and spread out. And that's it! This recipe is quick, which perfectly lent itself as a last minute gesture.
I think these would be great with a sprinkling of sea salt right after the brittle has been spread onto the cookie sheet. Being a nut fanatic, I would argue that you could even up the amount of nuts from 2/3 to 3/4 of a cup each. I was lazy and didn't remove the hazelnut skins; you may consider removing them if you want your brittle to look a little nicer.
I hope you had a great weekend! I know that little N and I are pretty tired after the birthday party, but I am now inspired to start thinking of how to celebrate his second birthday in just under 8 months!
From Joanne Chang's Flour cookbook
2 cups (400 grams) sugar
1 cup (240 grams) water
1/4 cup (80 grams) light corn syrup
2/3 cup (100 grams) whole raw cashews, toasted golden brown
2/3 cup (100 grams) whole natural hazelnuts, toasted golden brown
2/3 cup (110 grams) whole natural almonds, toasted golden brown
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, water, and corn syrup and bring to a boil over high heat. Continue to boil the mixture on high heat, swirling the pan gently for 10 minutes (I required closer to 12-13 minutes), or until the sugar syrup turns an even golden brown. Watch the sugar carefully as it is cooking, and turn down the heat to low immediately when it is evenly golden brown.
Using a wooden spoon, quickly stir in the cashews, hazelnuts, almonds, butter, salt, and vanilla, mixing until the butter is completely melted. Working quickly, stir in the baking soda. The mixture will turn an orange-brown. Stir vigorously for 5 seconds more.
Immediately pour the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet, and spread it out as evenly as possible to about 1/2-inch thick, using the wooden spoon to level it. Let the brittle cool at room temperature for at least 1 hour before breaking into 3- to 4-inch pieces.
The brittle tastes best once it has cooled completely, 3 to 4 hours later. It can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Little N is 16.5 months now and not so little standing 34 inches tall and weighing a hefty 27 pounds. He's over half my height and on his tiptoes, can reach the third bookshelf and a good amount of our dinner table. Needless to say, few things are safe from this curious toddler these days.
Meanwhile, while he won't throw every piece of vegetable onto the floor (how does he know??), he will hand them back to you and is unhappy if they find their way onto his tray again. These days, he's a fan of raisin pecan bread toast, pecans, quesadillas with egg, mozzarella, sliced pears, plain greek yogurt, zucchini bread pancakes, and this oatmeal.
Oatmeal was one of N's first table foods when he turned one. I know this recipe by heart, which doesn't say much since it is so simple, adaptable, and forgiving.
Instead of adding sweeteners, I slice a whole banana and handfuls of frozen strawberries and raspberries that have been partly thawed in the microwave. In addition to a splash of milk, I add a generous dash of salt, cinnamon, ground ginger (powder), and sometimes some nutmeg or cloves. Alternatively, you could make this a savory dish with a poached egg or pieces of a boiled one.
The beauty is that this hearty, healthy whole grain is a blank canvas for you to incorporate other flavors and textures. Plus, it keeps very well in the refrigerator for 3-4 days, which is how long it takes little N to finish the entire pot!
Adapted minimally from Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything
Dash salt
1 cup rolled oats (not instant or quick-cooking)
Butter to taste (optional)
Fruit (such as strawberries, raspberries, bananas) and/or milk as desired
Spices (such as ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves, or nutmeg) and/or vanilla extract as desired
Combine 2 1/4 cups water, salt, and oats in a small saucepan over high heat. When the water boils, turn the heat down to low and cook, stirring, until the water is just absorbed, about 5 minutes. Add butter, fruit, spices, and/or a splash of milk if desired, cover the pan, and turn off the heat.
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Zucchini Bread Pancakes for Babies (and Grown-ups, Too)
Growing up in a food-obsessed household, I have already taken an interest (nay, an obsession) that our little N is exposed to a variety of foods. Before developing his pincer grasp and feeding himself, he subsisted on all types of yams--Japanese, purple, and garden variety, and I could sneak pureed green vegetables into the mashed yams. However, this has proven trickier now that we are transitioning him to table food. He already has developed a visceral reaction to broccoli or cauliflower florets and promptly clears his tray of any and all pieces, lest he accidentally eats one.
This was quite distressing to me. I suppose I'm somewhat an oddity as I could just munch on steamed vegetables for a snack or as part of dinner. I know his tastes have much time and direction to evolve, but in the meantime I'm thankful he likes to eat these zucchini bread pancakes!
Just as zucchini and carrots are commonly used to add moisture to cakes and breads, they serve a similar role in these toddler-friendly pancakes. Even better--they freeze and thaw beautifully, making perfect snacks to send to daycare or a little trip out.
As an aside, this weekend I made fried rice with carrots, peas, corn, and egg, which was warmly received by him, so hopefully I won't need to continue sneaking the vegetables into his yam mash!
Recipe
Minimally adapted from smitten kitchen
2 large eggs
3 tablepoons olive oil
2 tablespoons light brown, dark brown or granulated sugar
1/4 cup buttermilk or tablespoons each of milk and plain yogurt, whisked until smooth
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups shredded zucchini or carrots (from about 9 ounces whole, or 1 1/2 medium zucchini), heaping cups are fine
1 cup all-purpose flour (half can seamlessly be swapped with whole wheat flour)
1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground or freshly grated nutmeg
Butter or oil, for coating skillet
In a large bowl, combine eggs, olive oil, sugar, buttermilk, and vanilla until smooth. Stir in zucchini or carrot shreds. In a smaller bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking soda, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Stir dry ingredients into zucchini batter, mixing until just combined.
Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Once hot, melt a pat of butter in pan and swirl in around until sizzles. Scoop two to three heaping tablespoons of batter in pan so the puddles do not touch. Cook until bubbles appear on the surface, about 2 to 3 minutes. Flip pancakes and cook another minute or two, until golden underneath.
To freeze: Allow the pancakes to cool room temperature and place in individual plastic bags. Lay plastic bags into a large freezer bag and store for up to a month. You can take one plastic bag out at a time and allow to thaw overnight in the refrigerator.
Makes 12 to 14 pancakes. Our son N eats two of these at a time for his morning snack.
Every year I spend a little more time and energy to make a special, usually more involved cake for Nathan's birthday. It is a nice excuse to tackle an interesting recipe that I otherwise would not make. This year, we drew inspiration from a beautiful bin of Meyer lemons that were an impromptu purchase from Costco! They had a deep yellow color and were heavy with juice; I couldn't pass them up.
Of course, when we came back, I wondered what we would do with over two dozen lemons (and, among other things, the gigantic amount of food and toiletries that always seem reasonable when you are at Costco). Lemonade naturally entered my head, but we are thankful that we picked up Joanne Chang's Flour cookbook and perused through to find this lemon curd recipe.
From there, it was an easy decision to make this delicious lemon curd and raspberry three-layer cake. Beware; this cake takes a good half of the day (or more) to make. It requires at least an hour for the cake too cool, an hour in the refrigerator after you assemble the three layers (but before you frost the outside), and another 30 minutes to firm up the crumb coat. While the batter is not difficult to make, it does involve several steps, including whipping the egg whites that introduce a light crumb.
I would recommend making the lemon curd ahead of time to reduce the number of components that you need to make in one day. As the cake bakes, you can put together the simple lemon syrup that goes onto the cake, and as the cake cools on the wire rack, you can throw together the buttercream frosting.
The three layers of cake are sandwiched by delicious buttercream, curd, and fresh raspberries. As the raspberries can get watery and leak out from the side, I found it helpful to take the recipe's advice and pipe a flood layer of buttercream around the perimeter of the cake. This "fence" firms up in the refrigerator, preventing any unsightly leaks!
Although time consuming, this cake is definitely worth it! Each component is already very delicious, but when put together, it is a very special birthday cake. It also keeps well in the refrigerator tightly wrapped with plastic wrap.
We enjoyed opening presents for Nathan's birthday. Even this little guy got into it--of course, he was just getting some practice in before his big day! (Although now in retrospect, little N had less interest opening his own presents; he spent perhaps a few seconds at a time looking at the present and much more time instead on the envelopes in which his cards came!)
We used the leftover lemon curd to make tarts. The crust is a simple pate sucree placed into 4.5 inch mini tart pans and baked. I docked the bottom of the crust, and they baked very well without pie weights. The baked tart crusts store well at room temperature in an airtight container, but I would use them within 24 hours. You can spoon in the lemon curd and have them chill in the refrigerator at least 2 hours before you want to serve them. We had them after cooking a simple weeknight dinner for a friend who had just arrived into Boston for a short business trip; our friend later wrote back and said it may have been the best lemon curd tart she's had!
Having lemon curd cake and tarts just confirm that we need a lemon tree outside our future home. I am not sure yet where this will be, but can already picture the tree standing nearby, bearing fruit for baking, cooking, and drinking.
Hope you have a wonderful weekend! At least in Boston, it is feeling and looking very much like autumn. I envision more apple crisp and galettes over the next few weekends! And speaking of birthdays, happy birthday T! I hope you had a well-deserved relaxing afternoon all to yourself!
Recipe
Barely adapted from Joanne Chang's Flour cookbook
For the lemon curd
1 cup (240 grams) fresh lemon juice (6 to 7 Meyer lemons)
1/4 cup (1/2 stick/56 grams) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons heavy cream
4 eggs
2 egg yolks
1 cup (200 grams) sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
In a medium nonreactive saucepan, combine the lemon juice, butter, and cream. Place over medium-high heat and heat to just under a boil. In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together the eggs and egg yolks until blended, then slowly whisk in the sugar until combined. Remove the lemon juice mixture from the heat and gradually whisk a little of it into the sugar-egg mixture. Continue whisking the hot liquid, a little at a time, until all of it has been incorporated.
When all the hot liquid has been incorporated, return the contents of the bowl to the saucepan, and return the saucepan to medium heat. Cook, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon and scraping the bottom of the pan frequently to prevent the eggs from scrambling, for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture thickens and coats the spoon thickly. To test, draw your finger along the back of the spoon; the curd should hold the trail for a second or two before it fills.
Remove the curd from the heat and strain it through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Whisk in the salt and vanilla. You should have about 2 cups. Cover tightly and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours, or until cold. The curd can be made a week in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator (our curd lasted several weeks in the refrigerator).
For the cake
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick/86 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour three 9-inch round cake pans, or line with parchment paper.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a handheld mixer), cream together the butter, oil, and 1 cup (200 grams) of the sugar for 2 to 3 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Stop the mixer a few times and user a rubber spatula to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl and the paddle to release any clinging butter or sugar. Beat in the vanilla and lemon zest.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. On low speed, add about one-third of the flour mixture to the butter-sugar mixture and mix until incorporated. Add about half of the milk and continue to mix on low speed until incorporated. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl well. Add half of the remaining flour mixture and mix until incorporated. Add the rest of the milk and mix until incorporated. Stop the mixer again and scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl well. Add the remaining flour mixture and mix on low speed until incorporated. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and transfer the batter to a large bowl.
Clean the mixer bowel well, making sure that absolutely no batter remains in it. Fit the mixer with the whip attachment. Place the egg whites in the bowel and beat on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they hold soft peaks. The whites will start to froth and turn into bubbles, and eventually the yellowy viscous part will disappear. Keep whipping until you can see the tines of your whip leaving a slight trail in the whites. To test for the soft-peak stage, stop the mixer and lift the whip out of the whites; the whites should peak and then droop.
On medium speed, slowly add the remaining 1/3 cup (70 grams) sugar and whip for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the whites are glossy and shiny and hold a peak when you slowly lift the whip straight up and out of the whites.
Using the rubber spatula, gently fold about one-third of the whipped egg whites into the batter to lighten it. Then gently fold in the remaining egg whites. Scrape the sides of the bowl to catch any loose whites. Divide the batter evenly among the prepared cake pans.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until each cake layer begins to pull away from the sides of the pan and the top starts to get a little golden but is still pale and it springs back when pressed in the middle with a fingertip. Let cool in the pans on wire racks until cook enough to remove from the pans, at least 30 minutes. The cakes should be warm but not hot, and should pop out of the pans easily without falling apart. Invert the cakes onto the racks, peel off the parchment if used, and let cook for about 2 hours, or until completely cool. The cooled cakes can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the freezer for up to 1 week. Thaw at room temperature, still wrapped tightly in the plastic wrap.
For the buttercream frosting
1 1/2 cups (300 grams) sugar
3/4 cup (180 grams) water
4 eggs
2 egg yolks
3 cups (6 sticks/681 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 1-inch chunks
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup (120 grams) fresh lemon juice (3 to 4 lemons)
1/2 cup (120 grams) water
3/4 cup (150 grams) sugar
1 pint (260 grams) raspberries
In a small saucepan, stir together the sugar and water. Place over high heat, bring to a boil, and cook, without stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the syrup registered 238°F on a candy thermometer (the softball stage). Meanwhile, fit the stand mixer with the whip attachment and beat together the eggs and egg yolk on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until pale and light.
When the syrup is ready, remove from the heat. On low speed, slowly add the syrup into the eggs, drizzling it down the side of the bowl to keep it from hitting the whip and spattering. Turn up the speed to medium and whip for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture turns light and fluffy, is pale, and is cool to the touch. Turn down the speed to low and add the butter, a few chunks at a time. Increase the mixer speed to medium and continue to whip for 4 to 5 minutes. The mixture will break and look curdled at first, but don't worry. It will soon become smooth and silky.
Add the salt and whip until completely combined. You should have about 6 cups. Use within 30 minutes, or cover and leave at room temperature for up to 8 hours, and then beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until smooth before using. Or, transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, then bring to room temperature and beat with the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment for a few minutes until smooth before using.
In a small saucepan, combine the lemon juice, water, and sugar and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. This syrup will be used for moistening the cake layers.
Scoop about 3 cups of the buttercream into a medium bowl, add about 1/2 cup of the lemon curd, and whisk together until well combined. This will be used to fill the cake. Set aside the remaining buttercream for frosting the cake and set aside about 1/3 cup curd for finishing off the top.
To assemble the cake
Remove the cooled cakes from their pans. Using a long, serrated knife, trim the top of each cake to level it. Place one layer on a 9-inch cardboard cake round or directly on a cake stand. You may want to consider placing pieces of parchment or wax paper under the cake layer to catch any crumbs or frosting that might otherwise fall onto the cake stand. Brush the layer generously with about one-third of the lemon syrup.
Spoon about 1 cup of the curd-buttercream mixture onto the cake layer and use an offset spatula to spread it evenly to the edges. Spoon about 1/2 cup of the curd-buttercream mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip and pipe a layer of it around the perimeter to form a "flood layer". Carefully spread about half of the nonreserved lemon curd on top of the buttercream. Sprinkle half of the raspberries evenly on top of the curd.
Carefully place a second layer on top of the raspberries and press down lightly so the cake adheres to the curd and the raspberries settle into the curd and curd-buttercream layers. Brush this second layer with half of the remaining lemon syrup, then spoon on another 1 cup of the curd-buttercream mixture, spreading it to the edges. Repeat the flood layer, then spread the rest of the nonreserved curd on top of the buttercream. Set aside a few pretty raspberries for garnishing the top, then sprinkle the remaining raspberries evenly over the curd layer. Carefully place the third layer, top-side down on top. Brush the remaining lemon syrup over the top. At this point the cake needs to firm up in the refrigerator before you finish it. Place it in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, or up to 2 days, wrapped in plastic wrap.
After the cake has firmed up, spoon about 1 cup of the reserved plain buttercream on top of the cake and spread it over the top and down the cake sides, smoothing the buttercream as well as you can and covering the entire cake with a thin layer. This is the crumb coat, which will keep any loose crumbs from migrating to the surface of the finished cake. Refrigerate the cake once again for about 30 minutes to set the crumb coat.
Spoon about 1 1/2 cups plain buttercream on top of the cake and spread it evenly across the top and down the sides. This is the finishing layer of the frosting. Spread the reserved 1/3 cup curd on the top of the cake, spreading it in a very thin layer. Spoon any remaining buttercream in a pastry bag fitted with a small round or star tip and pipe a decorative line along the top and/or bottom edge of the cake. Garnish the top of the cake with the reserved raspberries.
The cake can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
This blog has crept into my thoughts recently; part of me was reluctant to see when I last posted, but a more recent part of me remembered one of the main reasons I started this blog. I meant to blog as a way of keeping notes on recipes: chronicling things I that I liked or disliked; photographing those results; and tying memories to various meals, dishes, and flavors.
It's no secret that we have been busy with this little one, who really is not too little any more. In four days, our baby N turns 1 year old! But in the midst of caring, loving, and spending time with him, I laid neglected various posts that I had stashed away. And when I returned to them yesterday--now 6 months later--I honestly could not remember where some of these recipes came from!
Hence today's post. We have been so fortunate to have the energy and time to start having friends over for dinner these last few weekends. It gives us an opportunity to have N meet new people but when needed, whisk him off to sleep. It's also been an opportunity to get back full time into the kitchen. I realized at that point how much I depend on this blog to get my inspiration and recipes. And if I don't continue to record our successes (and failures!), I may lose out on important discoveries we have made along the way.
Before I talk about these delicious sticky sticky buns, I have to give a shout out to fall and apple crisp! We had friends over last night and as part of a very fall dinner, we had a lovely apple crisp, which I made many years ago. I used a winning combination of Macoun (the first of the season), Granny Smith, and Gala apples and topped it with an almond and oatmeal-based topping. The last pieces of crisp are already long gone today, but I'm already planning another batch when we have friends over in a few weekends!
These sticky sticky buns are renowned at Flour Bakery, one of my favorite bakeries in Boston. They are a bit heavy, but when fresh, you can easily devour one or more of them. We made these for friends during the summer as part of a brunch, where they were very warmly received. In fact, one of our foodie friends declared it the best sticky bun he's ever eaten. I still glow with that compliment!
Making this, though, requires some planning (especially if you have little ones). We made the brioche dough a few days ahead and froze the dough until the end of the week, when we assembled the sticky buns the night before. The next morning, they require a few hours to proof in a gooey, sticky mixture, and then they are ready to go into the oven! The goo can also be made ahead of time (highly recommended). Make sure you allow them to sit for at least 20 minutes after they come out. It allows the goo to thicken up a bit and take on the sticky syrup you would expect for a sticky sticky bun.
I have also been taking advantage of making double recipes and freezing the extra batch. This is especially true for brioche dough, which freezes and thaws beautifully.
I can't wait until little N is able to come into the kitchen and help with rolling, cutting, and trying different foods. At the moment, his space in the kitchen is relegated to under the counter, where we have a box of dried goods gifted from friends moving out. He is particularly enamored with the jello boxes, which he shakes in each hand, makes sounds, and giggles. It is such a sweet sight (no pun intended)!
Hope your week is off to a great start! We certainly are counting down to the end of this week!
Recipe
From Joanne Chang's Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Cafe
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks/170 grams) unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups (330 grams) packed light brown sugar
1/3 cup (115 grams) honey
1/3 cup (80 grams) heavy cream
1/3 cup (80 grams) water
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 batch Basic Brioche dough (brioche dough recipe to follow)
1/4 cup (55 grams) packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup (100 grams) pecan halves, toasted and chopped
To make the goo: In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the brown sugar until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and whisk in the honey, cream, water, and salt. Let cool for about 30 minutes, or until cooled to room temperature. You should have about 2 cups. At this point, the mixture can be made up to 2 weeks in advanced and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. (I used this up to 3 weeks later, and it still was quite tasty.)
On a floured work surface, roll out the dough into a rectangle about 16 by 12 inches and 1/4 inch thick. It will have the consistency of cold, damp Play-Doh and should be fairly easy to roll. Position the rectangle so a short side is facing you.
In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon, and half of the pecans. Sprinkle this mixture evenly over the entire surface of the dough. Starting from the short side farthest from you and working your way down, roll up the rectangle like a jelly roll. Try to roll tightly, so you have a nice round spiral. Even off the ends by trimming about 1/4 inch from both sides.
Use a bench scraper or a chef's knife to cut the roll into 8 equal pieces, each about 1 1/2 inches wide. You can freeze the unbaked buns at this point, if needed. Wrap them tightly in plastic wrap and place them in an air tight container in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. When ready to bake, thaw them still wrapped, in the refrigerator overnight or at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, and then proceed as directed.
Pour the goo mixture into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, covering the bottom evenly. Sprinkle the remaining pecans over the surface. Place the buns, a cut side down and evenly spaced, 2-by-4-inches, in the baking dish. Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm spot to proof for about 2 hours, or until the dough is puffy, pillowy, and soft and the buns are touching.
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool in the dish on a wire rack for 20 to 30 minutes. One at a time, invert the buns onto a serving platter, and spoon any extra goo and pecans from the bottom of the dish over the top.
The buns are best served warm or within 4 hours of baking. They can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day, and then warmed in a 325°F oven for 6 to 8 minutes before serving.
1 1/2 packages (3 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast, or 1 ounce (28 grams) fresh cake yeast
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon (82 grams) sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 cup (120 grams) cold water
6 eggs
1 cup plus 6 tablespoons (2 3/4 sticks/310 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 10 to 12 pieces
In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the all-purpose flour, bread flour, yeast, sugar, salt, water, and 5 of the eggs. Beat on low speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until all of the ingredients have come together. Stop the mixer as needed to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl to make sure all of the flour is incorporated into the wet ingredients. Once the dough has come together, beat on low speed for another 3 to 4 minutes. The dough will be very stiff and seem quite dry.
On low speed, add the butter one piece at a time, mixing after each addition until it disappears into the dough. Then, continue mixing on low speed for about 10 minutes, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl. It is important for all of the butter to be mixed thoroughly into the dough. If necessary, stop the mixer occasionally and break up the dough with your hands to help mix in the butter.
Once the butter is completely incorporated, turn up the speed to medium and beat for another 15 minutes, or until the dough becomes sticky, soft, and somewhat shiny. It will take some time to come together. It will look shaggy and questionable at first, but then eventually it will turn smooth and silky. Turn the speed to medium-high and beat for about 1 minute. You should hear the dough make a "slap-slap" sound as it hits the sides of the bowl. Test the dough by pulling at it: it should stretch a bit and have a little give. If it seems wet and loose and more like a batter than a dough, add a few tablespoons of flour and mix until it comes together. If it breaks off into pieces when you pull at it, continue to mix on medium speed for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until it develops more strength and stretches when you grab it. It is ready when you can gather it all together and pick it up in one piece.
Place the dough in a large bowl or plastic container and cover it with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap directly onto the surface of the dough. Let the dough proof in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or up to overnight. At this point, you can freeze the dough in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Makes enough dough for two loaves (note, is it worth making a double batch and freezing the extra dough--you will not regret it!)
I think my parents (and all parents for that matter) should get a medal for the hours, days, and years of energy, time, and effort they invested into us. I never fully appreciated the joys and energy-consuming process of parenting until being a parent myself! Little N is almost 6 months old and is developing a personality all his own. He laughs, smiles, plays, and sometimes scolds as well. He loves looking around, exploring his surroundings, and scanning back and forth, making sure he does not miss a detail. I look forward each day returning back from work to see him and his smile, to spend a few hours before he goes to bed and I rush to finish my work.
Hence ... it's been quiet around here recently.
I'm working through a backlog of recipes I baked and cooked a few months ago, and this banana bread from Flour bakery is one of them. While I previously had this go-to recipe, I decided to try this recipe from the cookbook given the foolproof success of other recently baked recipes.
The secret ingredient of banana bread is using very ripe bananas--the blacker, the better. This banana bread obtains its moisture from oil and creme fraiche and a nice bite from almost a cup of toasted walnuts. I like to sprinkle a light dusting of granulated sugar on top of the loaf before it goes into the oven so that the top develops a crackling crust--my favorite part of the loaf.
Happy April--it's amazing how quickly this year has already flown by!
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (230 grams) sugar, plus more for sprinkling on top of the loaf
2 eggs
1/2 cup (100 grams) canola oil
3 1/2 very rip, medium bananas, peeled and mashed (1 1/3 cups mashed, about 340 grams)
2 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup (75 grams) walnut halves, toasted and chopped
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 325°F. Butter a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.
In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt. Set aside.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, beat together the sugar and eggs on medium speed for about 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy.
On low speed, slowly drizzle in the oil. Don't pour the oil in all at once. Add it slowly so it has time to incorporate into the eggs and doesn't deflate the air you have just beaten into the batter. Add it should take about 1 minute. Add the bananas, creme fraiche, and vanilla and continue to mix on low speed just until combined.
Using a rubber spatula, fold in the flour mixture and the nuts just until thoroughly combined. No flour streaks should be visible, and the nuts should be evenly distributed. Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan and smooth the top. Sprinkle up to 1 tablespoon of granulated sugar on top.
Bake for 1 to 1 1/4 hours, or until golden brown on top and the center springs back when you press it. If your finger sinks when you poke the bread, it needs to bake a little longer. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes, and then pop it out of the pan to finish cooling.
The banana bread can be stored tightly wrapped in plastic wrap at room temperature for up to 3 days. Or it can be well wrapped in a plastic wrap and frozen for up to 2 weeks; thaw overnight at room temperature for serving.
Gingerbread Cupcakes with Cinnamon Cream Cheese Frosting
I realize it's been quiet around here recently, but we have been busy these last few weeks with our little guy, a loss in the family, and some nasty bugs being shared around the house. Meanwhile, my queue of recipes has steadily grown. It is nice to have a few minutes to take a deep breath and write this post.
Although I have not yet watched the show DC cupcakes, I had a taste of the cupcakes from Georgetown Cupcakes during my visit to DC last year. I immediately fell in love with their cupcakes--a nice balance between cupcake and frosting and a very large variety of flavors! Within days after returning from my trip, I told Nathan that I would like their cupcake cookbook for Christmas.
These are my first batch of cupcakes from the cookbook, which was quite fitting for the holiday season when I baked them *two months* ago. They are delicious, although may not be for everyone; there is a strong bite of spice from the ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. But if you are a gingerbread fanatic (as my husband is), you will love the moist crumb and delicious frosting. I am one who tends to shy away from eating all the frosting off a cupcake, but I found myself dipping my finger into the frosting bag more than once after I finished frosting the cupcakes. I think cream cheese should be in all frostings--what a great ingredient!
I made these cupcakes for a potluck we hosted at our house and decorated them with edible red dot candies from Crate and Barrel. Be warned: contrary to what is written in the cookbook, one recipe of cupcakes yields at least two dozen cupcakes. This is one of the few criticisms of the book--the yield tends to be quite off and produces at least double of what is written.
Happy early Valentine's Day! If I had an extra six hours in the day, I would make red velvet cupcakes from the cookbook to celebrate, but at the moment, I'm just happy to be spending time with little N and my family.
Recipe
From The Cupcake Diaries
For the cupcakes
2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons ground ginger
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 1/4 cup molasses
1 cup hot water
For the cinnamon cream-cheese frosting
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a standard cupcake pan with paper baking cups.
Sift together the dry ingredients, except for the brown sugar, and set aside.
Cream together butter and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer or in a bowl with a handheld electric mixer on high speed, 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating slowly after each addition. Add the molasses, mixing until well incorporated.
Add one third of the dry ingredients and one third of the water and mix thoroughly. Stop to scrape down the bowl as needed. Add the last third of the dry ingredients and one third of the water, and mix thoroughly.
Scoop the batter into the cupcake pan using a standard-size ice-cream scoop, filling to approximately 2/3 full. Do not overfill.
Bake at 350°F for 16-18 minutes (start checking at 15 minutes) or until a toothpick comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool completely.
For the frosting: Place all ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; beat until well combined. Frost cupcakes.
Makes at least 2 dozen; I made a 1.5x batch of the frosting and had more than enough for all the cupcakes from a single recipe
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I love how food is more than just protein, fat, and carbohydrates for our bodies. It provides comfort and serves as a centerpiece around which old experiences are shared and new memories are made. This rings especially true now sitting here in California with my family as we celebrate and remember my grandmother's life. We laugh as we retell the time when, driving over to dinner, we thought my grandmother's face looked slightly different than usual. It was only when we arrived and sat down to eat that we and she realized forgot to wear her dentures!
I think she would like these scones, just sweet enough to make them a special breakfast treat.
Just when you found your go-to scone recipe, here comes another one to challenge it. This is yet another great recipe from Flour Bakery; moist from the addition of heavy cream, these scones get a nice bite of texture from oats, pecans, and cranberries.
There is also maple syrup in and over the scone. After the scone cools, they get a drizzle or brushing with maple syrup icing to give them a little sweetness.
These scones also freeze wonderfully. After assembling the dough, you can form them into 1/4-cup sized balls, wrap in plastic wrap, and store in the freezer for at least 2 weeks. They make a nice weekend morning treat after you get back from the gym and want something substantial to start your day.
Recipe
Minimally adapted from Joanna Chang's Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Cafe
1/2 cup (50 grams) pecan halves, toasted and chopped
1/2 cup dried cranberries
1/2 cup (1 stick, 114 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8-10 pieces
1/2 cup (80 grams) cold heavy cream
1/2 cup (160 grams) maple syrup
1 cold egg
Maple glaze
1 cup (140 grams) confectioners' sugar
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1-2 tablespoons water
Position the rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°F.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a handheld mixer), mix together the flour, oats, baking powder, baking soda, salt, pecans, and cranberries on low speed for 10-15 seconds, or until combined. Scatter the butter over the top and beat on low speed for about 30 seconds, or until the butter is somewhat broken down and grape-size pieces are still visible.
In a small bowl, whisk together the cream, maple syrup, and egg until thoroughly mixed. On low speed, pour the cream mixture into the flour-butter mixture and beat for 20-30 seconds, or just until the dough comes together. It will be fairly wet.
Remove the bowl form the mixer stand. With a rubber spatula, scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl to ensure that all the dry ingredients are mixed into the dough. Using a 1/3-cup dry-measuring cup, drop mounded scoops of the dough onto a baking sheet, forming 8 scones and spacing them 2-3 inches apart. At this point, the unbaked scones can be frozen, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 2 weeks. Proceed as directed, baking directly from the freezer and adding 5-10 minutes to the baking time.
Bake for about 30-40 minutes, or until the cones are golden brown on top. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for 30 minutes.
To make the maple glaze: While the scones are cooling, in a small bowl, whisk together the confectioners' sugar, maple syrup, and enough of the water to make a smooth, pourable glaze. You should have about 1/2 cup. The glaze can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
When the scones have cooled, brush the tops evenly with the maple glaze and then serve.
There is a back log of posts at the moment--all I need is a little more time, which tends to be a recurring theme these days! We made this roasted pear and cranberry crostata back in December to finish off a hot pot dinner with B and L. Hot pot is a quintessential winter meal; when it's cold and wet outside, it's nice to be dipping and cooking various meats and vegetables into hot broth and sauces.
The beauty with this crostata is that (1) the various components can be individually made ahead of time, assembled into the crostata, and then thrown into the oven when you are ready; (2) it's a crostata, which means rustic (read: imperfection) is encouraged; and (3) it incorporates fruits of the season.
A few days before our hot pot dinner, we roasted nine bosc pears with ginger and syrup and made the frangipane and crust. The day before, you can assemble the crostata in its unbaked form so that a few hours before dinner all you have to do is brush the edges with an egg wash, sprinkle sanding sugar, and throw it into the oven.
Pears and almonds have a nice affinity for each other and are complemented by a burst of tart flavor from the cranberries. The crust is a flaky pate brisee, which we have now used several times for quiches and pies. Given its versatility, it is probably worthwhile making an extra batch (or two) that can be stored in the freezer.
An update on parenthood: we are amazed how quickly N has been growing--he's over 2 feet now and just 3.5 months old! I do not think you can truly grasp how much your life changes with a new little one in your life--of course, all for the better (except for the sleep part)! He coos and smiles, which makes all those tired, cranky thoughts quickly go away.
Recipe
From Joanne Chang's Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Cafe
9 Bosc pears, peeled, halved, and cored
1-inch knob fresh ginger, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (1/2 stick/56 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
Pate Brisee II (recipe to follow)
Frangipane (recipe to follow)
1 cup (100 grams) fresh or frozen cranberries
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons sanding sugar, pearl sugar, or granulated sugar
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a 9-by-13-inch baking pan, toss together the pears, ginger, granulated sugar, and butter. Roast, stirring occasionally, for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until the pears are soft when pierced with a knife tip and golden. Let cool completely. (The pears can be roasted up to 5 days in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)
Remove the dough from the refrigerator. On a well-floured work surface, roll out the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and 1/4 inch thick. Place the dough circle on the prepared baking sheet.
Using the bake of a spoon or a small rubber spatula, spread the frangipane in the middle of the dough round in a circle about 9 inches in diameter, leaving a 3-inch border uncovered.
Place about 8 pear halves, cut-side down, in a circle in a single layer on top of the frangipane, lining them up with the edge of the frangipane and with the stem ends pointing toward the middle. Place 1 or 2 pear halves in the center to cover the frangipani circle completely. Sprinkle 3/4 cup (75 grams) of the cranberries evenly on top of the pears. Top the first layer of pears with a second layer of pears, using about 7 halves and reserving 1 pear half, arranging them in a small concentric circle. Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup (25 grams) of cranberries evenly on top of the second layer of pears.
Place the reserved pear half on a cutting board. Using a paring knife, and starting at the squat bottom end, cut four or five lengthwise slices, stopping just short of the stem end. Fan the slices, and place the pear half in the center of the second layer of pear halves. Starting at one side of the crostata, fold the 3-inch border of dough up and over the fruit, forming six to eight loose pleats around the perimeter and pressing the pleats firmly together onto the fruit. The center of the crostata will remain exposed in a 3- to 4-inch circle, showing off the fanned pear. Refrigerate the assembled crostata for at least 1 hour before baking. (At this point, the crostata can be covered with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 day before baking.)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
Brush the pleated pastry with the beaten egg, then sprinkle evenly with the sanding sugar. Bake for about 1 hour and 20 minutes, or until the pleats are golden brown. Make sure all the folds are evenly browned, so there are no chewy, under baked bits of dough. Let cool on the pan on a wire rack for at least 2 hours. Serve warm or at room temperature.
The crostata can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.
Serves 8 to 10
Frangipane
1/3 cup (50 grams) blanched whole almonds, or 1/2 cup (50 grams) almond flour
1/4 cup (1/2 stick/56 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup (50 grams) sugar
1 egg
2 teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of kosher salt
If using whole almonds, grind them in a food processor as finely as possible with turning them into a paste. Set aside.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a hand-held mixer or wooden spoon), cream together the butter and sugar on medium speed for 1 to 2 minutes, or until light. Add the ground almonds or almond flour and beat on medium speed for 1 minute, or until thoroughly incorporated. Stop the mixer and scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl.
On low speed, beat in the egg. Add the all-purpose flour, vanilla, and salt and mix until combined. You should have about 1 cup. Use immediately or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, then let sit for a few hours at room temperature before using. Or, freeze in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks, then thaw it in the refrigerator before using.
Makes about 1 cup
Pate Brisee II
1 cup (140 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon/128 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons cold milk
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or using a handheld mixer), mix together the flour, sugar, and salt. Scatter the butter over the top and mix on low speed for about 45 seconds, or until the flour is no longer bright white and holds together when you clump it and pecan-size lumps of butter are visible throughout.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and milk until blended. Add to the flour-butter mixture all at once. Mix on low speed for about 30 seconds, or until the dough barely comes together. It will look really shaggy and more like a mess than a dough.
Dump the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and gather it together into a tight mound. Using your palm and starting on one side of the mound, smear the dough bit by bit, starting at the top of the mound and then sliding your plan down the side and along the work surface, until most of the butter chunks are smeared into the dough and the dough comes together. Do this once or twice on each part of the dough, moving through the mound until the whole mess has been smeared into a cohesive dough with streaks of butter.
Gather up the dough, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and press down to flatten into a disk about 1 inch thick. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before using. The dough will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
Makes enough for one 9-inch single-crust pie, 10-inch crostata, or 9-inch quiche
I realize that there is a disproportionate number of posts on desserts, which may raise questions about what we may be feeding ourselves for lunch and dinner. I usually am more excited trying and photographing new baking recipes, but when we recently were searching for a dish that could easily last several meals, this recipe from Paula Deen immediately caught my eye given its glowing reviews and straightforward steps.
We love the dry rub and liquid braising liquid for a pork or beef roast. We first made this with pork butt and then again for a dinner potluck with beef chuck roast. The dry rub can be put onto the meat the night before, wrapped, and then stored overnight in the refrigerator. About 6 hours before you plan to eat it, throw the meat into a Dutch oven with the apple juice, apple cider, Worcestershire sauce, and garlic powder, and step back for the next 4 hours while the oven does its magic. While the recipe asks you to brush the roast with the liquid every hour, I don't think this is necessary. After you let it cool, the shredded meat can be flavored with your favorite BBQ sauce and served with coleslaw on a bun!
Recipe
Minimally adapted from Paula Deen
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons paprika
1/2 tablespoon cayenne
4-5 pound shoulder pork roast or chuck roast
2 cups apple juice
1 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tablespoon garlic powder
Mix the dry rub ingredients (salt, black pepper, dark brown sugar, paprika, and cayenne) in a small bowl. Sprinkle dry rub all over the pork or chuck roast, pressing into the meat. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Preheat oven to 325°F. Combine the liquid ingredients and the garlic powder in a medium bowl and pour into a large Dutch oven. Place meat in the oven and tight cover with aluminum foil, and then the lid. Roast for 4 hours, or until the meat is fork tender and easily shreds. Brush the roast with cooking liquid every hour.
Remove from the oven and let stand until cool enough to handle. Shred the pork or beef with forks into bite size pieces. Flavor with BBQ sauce, if desired and serve on brioche buns.
I've been on an apple pie kick recently, as you may know. Truth be told, apple pie may be one of my favorite desserts: warm baked apples and a buttery crust--what's not to love?
I saw this recipe from Joanne Chang's Flour cookbook, and I instantly resonated with her philosophy of apple pie. My ideal pie has a combination of both firmer (Granny Smith) and softer apples (Macintosh), which lends a variety of textures. The softer apples turn almost into mush after baking and provide a nice sauce, and the firmer apple pieces provide a nice bite. In order to pack as many apples as possible into the pie, you allow it to macerate in the sugar for 30 minutes. An ingenious idea!
The apples are flavored minimally with a pinch of cinnamon, brown sugar, and kosher salt, and the juices are thickened with all purpose flour. The crust--a pate brisee--is flaky and nicely withstands the heft of apples, although I found the dough softer and more challenging to work with compared with Flo Braker's flaky pie pastry.
We enjoyed this apple pie with friends on Christmas Eve and savored the leftovers for another two days. It keeps very well in the refrigerator, but I can tell you it won't last very long if you love apple pie even half as much as I do.
Recipe
From Joanne Chang's Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Cafe
1 recipe Pate Brisee I (to follow)
4 large Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 1/4 to 1/2-inch thick
3 medium Macintosh or Rome apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 1/4 to 1/2-inch thick
3/4 cup (165 grams) packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup (35 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch of ground cinnamon
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons sanding sugar, pearl sugar, or granulated sugar
Remove the dough from the refrigerator. On a well-floured work surface, flour out three-fourths of the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and 1/8-inch thick. Reserve the remaining dough for the lattice top. Roll the dough circle around the pin and then unfurl it on top of a 9-inch pie pan. Press the dough gently into the bottom and sides of the pan and cut the overhanging edges so that there is a 1/4 to 1/2 lip. Fold this under the and crimp around the circumference of the pie. Refrigerate the pie shell for at least 30 minutes, or tightly wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 day or freeze for up to 2 weeks. Bake directly from the refrigerator or freezer.
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°F. Line the pie shell with parchment paper or several overlapping coffee filters and fill with pie weights. Blind bake for about 30 minutes, or until the entire shell is light brown.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the apples, brown sugar, flour, salt, and cinnamon and toss to coat the apples evenly. Let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. This softens the apples so that you can pack more of them into the pie.
When the pie shell is ready, remove it from the oven and leave the oven set at 350°F. Remove the weights and parchment, and pile the apples into the shell, pressing down lightly to compact them.
On a well-floured work surface, roll out the remaining dough into a rectangle about 10 inches long by 6 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick. Using a fluted pastry wheel or pizza wheel, cut lengthwise strips each about 3/4 inch wide. Brush the strips with the beaten egg. Drape four of the dough strips on top of the apples, arranging them all in one direction and spacing them about 2 inches apart. Drape the remaining four dough strips at a 45-degree angle to the first four strips, again spacing them about 2 inches apart. Let the lattice strips drape over the edge of the pie shell (you will trim these after the pie bakes). Sprinkle the strips with the sanding sugar.
Bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, or until the lattice strips are golden brown all the way through. The apples should be soft and easy to pierce with a small knife. Let cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before serving. Using a small knife to trim any lattice overhang, so the strips are flush with the pie edge. Serve warm or at room temperature. The pie can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days, or in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
1 cup (2 sticks/228 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces
2 egg yolks
3 tablespoons cold milk
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the flour, sugar, and salt for 10 to 15 seconds , or until combined. Scatter the butter over the top. Mix on low speed for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, or just until the flour is no longer bright white and holds together when you clump it and lumps of butter the size of pecans are visible throughout.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and milk until blended. Add to the flour mixture all at once. Mix on low speed for about 30 seconds, or until the dough just barely comes together. It will look shaggy and more like a mess than a dough.
Dump the dough onto an unfloured surface, the gather it together into a tight mound. Using your palm and starting on one side of the mount, smear the dough bit by bit, starting at the top of the mound and then sliding your plan down the side and along the work surface, until most of the butter chunks are smeared into the dough and the dough comes together. Do this once or twice on each part of the dough, moving throughout eh mound until the whole mess has been smeared into a cohesive dough with streaks of butter.
Gather up the dough, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and press down to flatten into a disk about 1 inch thick. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before using. The dough will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
Makes enough for one 9-inch double-crust or lattice-top pie
As Nathan loves ginger-baked goods, gingerbread cookies regularly make their appearance in our household this time of year. We love the intoxicating smells of cinnamon, cloves, and ginger mixed with butter; it makes our home feel cozy and of the the holiday spirit.
While we have our go-to recipe for gingerbread cookies, we decided to give these ginger molasses cookies a try from my recently acquired Flour cookbook. Nathan jokes that because I have been baking through the book at a steady clip (more on a cranberry pear crostata hopefully soon), we will soon run out of excuses to take our walks to the bakery; we can bake all of their treats in the comfort of our own home. Ha! I will let you know if and when that day comes.
These cookies are delicious and are a new instant favorite of our household. And, as they are super easy to make, I am so happy we can eat these cookies whenever we want!
As promised by the recipe, they are not overly spicy. The cinnamon, cloves, and ginger are nicely accentuated by a healthy amount of kosher salt. The texture is just lovely; make sure to pull out the cookies when they attain just the slightest amount of firmness in the middle. They will continue to bake a little more once out of the oven, and you want to make sure that you have a gradient of textures (firm on the periphery, soft in the middle)! There is also the slightest crunch from a coating of granulated sugar. They store well in an airtight container, although honestly, they did not last longer than two days between the both of us.
As an aside, I am now a proud owner of a KitchenAid stand mixer! It was a generous Christmas gift from my in-laws (thank you)! I have already used it to make a batch of maple oatmeal scones (more to come on that soon, too), and it makes it so much easier to bake!
Recipe
From Joanne Chang's Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Cafe
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to the touch
1 cup (220 grams) packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup (80 grams) unsulphured dark molasses
1 egg
2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
Granulated sugar for coating
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a handheld mixer or wooden spoon), mix together the butter, brown sugar, molasses, and egg on low speed for about 20 seconds, or until well combined.
In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, salt, and cloves until well mixed. Add the flour mixture to the butter-sugar mixture and stir just until the flour mixture is totally incorporated and the dough is evenly mixed.
For the best results, scrape the dough into an airtight container and let it rest in the refrigerator overnight (or for at least 3 to 4 hours) before baking. When you are ready to bake, position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350°F.
Place some granulated sugar in a small bowl. One at a time, scoop out 1/4-ccup balls of dough, place them in the sugar, and roll gently in the sugar to coat on all sides. Place the coated balls on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, spacing them about 2 inches apart.
Bake for 16 to 18 minutes (ours required only 15 minutes), or until the cookies are crackly on top and just barely firm to the touch. Let cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack for 5 to 10 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the rack to cool completely.
The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. The unbaked cookie dough can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
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I know--why am I blogging about Thanksgiving when we have just finished our Christmas dinner? While I sometimes can blog and record our food adventures in a timely manner, and there are many other times when I can not. This happens to be one of those times.
But rather than skip and move on to the next big meal, I find it helpful to record our meal: what we ate, with whom, and when. These are details that contribute to holiday memories. In this case, we celebrated N's first Thanksgiving dinner with his grandmother and Nathan--an intimate dinner amongst the four of us.
There was a bone-in turkey breast (per the butcher, the meat tastes better with the bone in, plus there are enough drippings for gravy!), a cranberry cornbread dressing, delicious brussel sprouts and carrots with a kick from cider vinegar, and sweet potato with garlic and fried sage. And for dessert, super pumpkin-y pumpkin pie.
My favorites were the brussel sprouts and carrots (which we had again tonight) and the sweet potato rounds. Both dishes are very straightforward and packed with flavor; I think they may make the rounds in future dinners to come ...
As this (and every) day is a time for reflection, I would like to give thanks for the family and friends in my life. Thank you for the 60 minutes to myself so that I can unwind mentally and physically. Thank you for the calls and texts to check in and say hi. Thank you for the packages of nourishment. What a blessing to have all of you in my life.
Happy holidays!
Recipes
Roasted sweet potato rounds with garlic oil and fried sage
From Epicurious.com
3 large garlic cloves
1/4 cup olive oil
2 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch thick rounds
For the fried sage
1/3 cup olive oil
24 sage leaves
Preheat oven to 450°F and position rack in the upper third of oven.
Puree garlic with oil and 3/4 teaspoon salt in a blender until smooth. Toss sweet potatoes with garlic oil in a large bowl, then spread in 1 layer in a 15 x 10-inch shallow baking pan. Bake until golden in patches and cooked through, 20 to 30 minutes.
To fry the sage leaves, heat oil in a small heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then fry sage leaves in 2 batches, stirring until crisp, 30 seconds to 1 minute per batch. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.
Serve sweet potatoes with sage leaves scattered on top.
Of note, sweet potatoes can be cut and tossed with garlic oil 4 hours ahead and chilled in a sealable bag. Sage leaves can be fried 4 hours ahead and kept at room temperature.
Carrots and brussels sprouts
From Epicurious.com
2 tablespoons chopped shallot (from 1 medium)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 pound carrots, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch thick pieces
1 pound Brussels sprouts, halved lengthwise
1/3 cup water
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
Cook shallot in 2 tablespoons butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add carrots, Brussels sprouts, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables begin to brown, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add water and cover skillet, then cook over medium-high heat until vegetables are tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in vinegar, remaining tablespoon butter, and salt and pepper to taste.
Of note, the vegetables can be washed and cut the night before and kept in the refrigerator.
Cranberry and corn bread stuffing
Adapted from Epicurious.com
1 skillet corn bread
1 1/3 cups pecans
1 pound leeks, white and pale green parts only
3 celery ribs
3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter
1 1/3 cups fresh or unthawed frozen cranberries
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup packed chopped fresh flat-leafed parsley leaves
1 1/3 cups chicken broth
(optional) 1/2 pound sweet Italian sausage (we omitted)
Preheat oven to 325°F. Cut corn bread into 1/2-inch cubes and on 1 large shallow baking pan, bake in the middle of the oven until just dry, about 20 minutes. Transfer corn bread from the pan to a large bowl. Place pecans onto sheet and bake until insides are golden, 10 to 20 minutes.
Halve leeks lengthwise and then cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. In a bowl of cold water, wash leeks well and lift from water into a sieve to drain. Chop celery into 1/2-inch pieces.
In a 12-inch skillet, cook leeks and celery over moderately low heat in butter with salt and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are tender, about 25 minutes. If using sausage, remove from casings and break into small pieces. Add sausage to leek mixture and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes or until sausage is cooked through.
In a small heavy saucepan, cook cranberries with sugar over moderately high heat, stirring, 5 minutes, or until some begin to burst.
Add the pecans, sausage mixture, cranberries, parsley, broth, salt, and pepper to taste to the large mixing bowl with dried corn bread cubes. Toss together and cool stuff completely. Place into a shallowing baking dish. The stuffing may be made up to this point one day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring stuff to room temperature before proceeding.
Preheat oven to 325°F and bake for one hour. Cover for 30 minutes and then uncover for remaining time so that the top is slightly crisp.
Slow-roasted herbed turkey breast
From Molly Steven's All About Roasting by way of Amateur Gourmet
2 garlic cloves
1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon celery seeds (we omitted)
1 boneless turkey breast (about 2 1/2 pounds), with skin (ours was closer to 5-6 pounds with the bone in)
Combine the garlic and salt in a mortar and pound until you have a smooth paste. Stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil,herbs, pepper, and celery seeds, if using.
Smear the turkey breast all over with the herb paste, using your fingers to slide some of the paste under the skin, being careful not to loose the skin completely. Place the roast on a wire rack on a baking sheet or tray and refrigerate, preferably uncovered for 6-24 hours. Let the roast sit at room temperature for about an hour before roasting.
Position a rack near the center of the oven and heat to 300°F.
Heat a large skillet (11-12 inches) over medium-high heat. Add the remaining tablespoon oil and heat until the oil shimmers. Sear the turkey skin side down, maneuvering it and turning it from side to side with tongs so the skin side sears evenly, about 6 minutes. Turn the turkey skin side up and brown lightly on the bottom, another 2-3 minutes. Transfer the turkey, skin side up, to a shallow roasting pan or baking dish not much larger than the turkey is.
Slide the turkey into the oven and roast unit the juices run mostly clear with a trace of pink and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers about 165°F, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours. Let turkey rest for 20 minutes.
Carve the turkey into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick slices.
Here is yet another delicious baked good from Joanne Chang's Flour Bakery cookbook: lemon-ginger scones.
The weather in Boston has been variable lately--there are days with highs in the 60s, which rapidly may alternate to frigid 40-degree days. For east coast purists, the anomalous 60-degree-days are unthinkable for a Boston winter, but for a die-hard Californian such as myself, they are a welcomed gift to go outside and take a walk.
And so we recently took advantage of one these warm days to walk to Flour Bakery in Cambridge--Nathan, baby N, my mom, and I. This Cambridge location is the third bakery that Joanne Chang has opened and based on the two times I've visited, it is constantly bustling. We sampled their oatmeal maple scone (which I hope soon to bake!), cheddar scallion scone, and banana bread. Of course, I had to have another cup of their delicious hot chocolate made from dark chocolate ganache; in fact, I have been thinking about that hot chocolate almost daily for several weeks!
We did not see these lemon-ginger scones there, although in the cookbook Joanne Chang says that they are one of their most popular items. I can see why!
I have previously posted on how two commonly used liquids--heavy cream and buttermilk--are used in scones and how each gives the scones a different texture and crumb. Whereas buttermilk imparts a more cake-like crumb, heavy cream lends a lighter, biscuit-like texture.
In this recipe, both buttermilk and heavy cream are used, which resulted in a moist, denser biscuit. This is not your British scone served with jam and clotted cream, but it is a substitute that I could also live with as well.
There are three types of ginger used: fresh grated ginger, finely diced candied ginger, and ground ginger. My mom, an avid, adventurous, and fearless baker, prepared the majority of the recipe as I was feeding the little one. As she grated the knob of ginger, she was worried that the scone would be overpowered by ginger flavor. But, as soon as we took a bite of the scone from the oven, we exclaimed how nicely the ginger flavor had mellowed!
The star of the scone, though, is the lemon glaze. Do not skip it! It is simply made by whisking lemon juice with confectioner's sugar. You can drizzle or brush it on. For your humble effort, you will be amply rewarded.
These scones are best eaten within 24 to 36 hours from baking, which is not too difficult to do. Or, if you are like us and trying to be somewhat diligent with what we eat, they look very nice wrapped in cellophane and given to your friends later that night in appreciation of a nice dinner party!
One comment on the recipe: in the cookbook, the recipe says that with a 3 1/2-inch cookie cutter, you should get 10 scones, each 1-inch thick. I, for the life of me, cannot figure out how that is possible. I instead used a 2 3/4-inch cutter and got 11 pieces, which works well for me since I prefer a smaller-sized scone.
Recipe
From Joanne Chang's Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Cafe
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 to 10 pieces
1/2 cup cold nonfat buttermilk
1/2 cup cold heavy cream
1 cold egg
2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger (about a 2-inch knob)
For the fresh lemon glaze
1 cup confectioner's sugar
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (1 to 1 1/2 lemons)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
Using either a stand or hand mixer, mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, granulated sugar, ground ginger, crystallized ginger, and lemon zest on low speed for 10 to 15 seconds, or until combined. Scatter the butter over the top and beat on low speed for about 30 seconds, or until the butter is somewhat broken down and grape-size pieces are still visible.
In a small bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, cream, egg, and grated ginger until thoroughly mixed. On low speed, pour the buttermilk mixture into the flour-butter mixture and beat for 20 to 30 seconds, or just until the dough comes together. (Beware that the dough will be heavy and slightly stiff at this point; our hand mixer started to overheat.) There will be a little loose flour mixture at the bottom of the bowl.
Gather and lift the dough in your hands and turn it over int eh bowl, so that it starts to pick up the loose flour at the bottom. Turn the dough over several times until all of the loose flour is mixed in.
Dump the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently roll it about 1 inch thick. Using a 2 3/4-inch round cookie cutter, cut out circles. Reroll the scraps and cut out more circles. You should have about 9-10 circles. Place them on a baking sheet, spacing them 2 to 3 inches apart.
Bake for 27 to 30 minutes, or until the scones are a light golden brown on top. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
To make the lemon glaze, whisk together the confectioner's sugar and enough of the lemon juice to make a smooth, thick, pourable glaze. You should have about 1/2 cup. The glaze can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
When the scones have cooled for 10 to 15 minutes, brush the tops evenly with the lemon glaze and serve.
