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Key

Must haves

Recommend

Good additions

* = cheaper/alternatives to ★

Substrate materials

[In rough order of highest percentage to lowest]

Dirt from outside/organic, pesticide and fertilizer free topsoil★

Zoomed Reptisoil*

Zilla Jungle mix*

Zoomed Creature soil*

Flake soil

Orchid bark/decaying wood

Worm castings, bat guano, or manure

Leaf litter

Sphagnum moss

Horticulture charcoal, for springtails

Notes - Article 1, article 2, article 3

Isos eat their substrate, so try to avoid empty materials like coco fiber and perlite if possible

Scott's topsoil is widely used in the iso community, and with any topsoil, add aerating materials to reduce compaction

If you are unsure if any of the gardening soil accessible to you is safe, use any reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate soil that is not pure coco fiber

You can use soil from outside but it must be sterilized. Be 100% sure that it is pesticide free

4-6 inches minimum

Sphagnum moss helps with moisture retention in the soil

It's generally cheaper to create your own substrate than to buy premade

Suface

Leaf litter

Tree bark/cork bark

Wood, twigs

Decaying wood

Wet Sphagnum moss

Seed pods, acorn caps

Moss

Lime stone

Coconut halves - hides

Shells - natural, unpainted

Notes - Article 1

You must have a thick layer of leaf litter, preferably at least 1 inch, covering the entire surface since it is their primary food source

Put wet sphagnum moss on one end of the enclosure. Monitor the moss to make sure it remains damp. Digging a small hole in the soil and putting the moss inside will keep it moist for longer if the soil itself is damp - with proper humidity, sphagnum is not 100% necessary, but I highly recommend new keepers use it as a guaranteed hydration spot while learning

Avoid materials from pine and cedar trees, resin from them can be an issue

Safe trees to get materials from such as bark or leaves include maple, beech, birch, oak, and almond. Magnolia and oak are some of the most common commercially available leaf litters

Any materials gathered from outside must be sterilized if you want to avoid potential pests

Any plants you add WILL be eaten, so don't put anything you want to last in with them, it might not be there long lol

Feeding

Leaf litter^

★Protein - dried shrimp, bloodworms, anchovies, egg*

★Calcium - pure cuttle bone, eggshell*, reptile calcium powder (not preferred but will not hurt if it is all you have on hand at the moment)

Veggie scraps

Decaying wood

Moss

Repashy

Reptile flower topper

Cat grass - clippings or sewn directly into substrate

Notes

Calcium must be available at all times, replenish once a month or sooner depending on colony size

Protein heavy species such as dairy cows need protein more frequently

Use fresh or frozen greens and vegetables, never anything might have been seasoned or fried. Plain boiled peas, green beans, etc. is fine

All supplemental food should be removed after 24 hours to prevent mold growth

General Notes

Article

Modify your husbandry to the individual species and replicate parts of their natural habitat if possible *

Sterilize any materials used if they are gathered from outside or if they are not advertised for reptiles etc. You can sterilize materials by boiling them, freezing them for 36 hours min, and/or baking them in the oven at the lowest temperature possible for a few hours

Isopods can be kept in plastic totes or glass tanks. Tanks with mesh lids should have the majority of it sealed or have the lid replaced. Plastic storage totes are the cheapest and most convenient option, you can even use a large tupperware container.

Enclosures should be roughly the size of a shoe box for small colonies, roughly 15x8x5 inches minimum. Upgrade the size to avoid overcrowding. You can prioritize length over depth with species that do not burrow as actively

For ventilation, you can cut a small hole on one side and cover it with either fabric or metal mesh, you can also poke small holes along the sides close to the top. Try to keep the ventilation on one side (the dry side of the enclosure). Add more ventilation gradually if there is high moisture buildup. Keep the vents towards the top to deter escapees

Moisture buildup on the sides of the enclosure is fine as long as it remains on the damp side and does not span the entire enclosure

Small amounts of mold will naturally pop up but will be eaten by both isos and springtails. Remove if excessive

DO NOT pick up gravid isos↑ it can stress them to the point of aborting the babies (mancae)

Avoid disrupting them frequently, even just taking the lid off the enclosure can stress them. Newly purchased or transferred colonies, especially, should be given about two weeks to settle in

Isopods molt in two pieces (shirt and pants). Avoid touching or disrupting and maintain humidity to reduce the risk of failed molts

There are pre-made iso foods available. Foods for hermit crabs and springtails are also a good option

Rule of thumb - If its safe for reptiles, amphibians, or hermit crabs it is most likely safe for isopods but always read the ingredients

Do partial substrate changes to avoid frass buildup

Freeze any substrate or materials from the enclosure that you plan to dispose of to prevent accidental release of isopods or pests into the environment

DO NOT mix species. Over time one will out compete the other, and the stress from repeated attempts at breeding between different species can kill the females