Succulent-y

 some recent purchases

Top Left: Cotyledon tomentosa

Top Mid: Crassula preforata 

Top Right: Fenestraria rhopalophylla

Mid Left: Echeveria affinis

Center: Crassula nudicaulis var herrei

Mid Right: Haworthia mirabilis v badia

Bottom Left: Sedum hernandezii

Bottom Mid: Senecio citriformis

Magnoliids are an unranked clade in the hierarchy of taxonomy that falls below the level of a phylum and is essentially, equivalent to a class.

And a Magnoliids is the term for a certain kind of flowering plant, and specifically is considered to be an archaic group of flowering plants because of their display of characteristics that were representative of early flowering plants.

A trait of Magnoliids is that all species have flowers with parts in multiples of three. This is most easily observed in regards to flower petals, especially when you think about a flower like a lily, which is a Magnoliid. But there are also plenty of Magnoliids out there that have more simple flowers, and may not even appear to be “traditional flowers” at all, but still have a multiple of 3 parts to them. Another important scientific distinction that is made about Magnoliids is that they have pollen with one groove on them like the majority of flowering plants on earth. While this has little effect on us humans, this is important because all the majority of flowering plants only have one and the Magnoliids are part of that majority.

Click here to see all the Magnoliids on Partial-Sun

Piperales are an order of flowering plants.

They are organized by molecular phylogenetics, meaning that they organized by genetic evolutionary relationships and not by physical attributes alone.

Genetic evolutionary relationships refers to a plants evolutionary history, and their hereditary molecular differences. It relies on the idea that plants all have shared ancestors that evolved differently and therefore have somewhat different and somewhat similar genetics.  By analyzing a plants genetics it allows for an understanding of who shared ansestors and where divergent evolutionary moments took place and uses DNA to illustrate plants different genetic relationships to each other.

Piperales are considered to be a sister order to the Canellales order.

The order of Piperales contains 5 families, 27 genera, and more than 4000 species and are often .

An example of a notable  from the Piperales are the

Some characteristics of Piperales are having .

Many members also have

The main family of succulent concern in the Piperales are the .

They are the family in the Piperales order and have a number of genera containing both succulent and non-succulent plants.

What are Lithops?

Lithops are a genus in the ice plant family aka the Aizoaceae. Lithops, also called ‘Living Stones’ are native to Southern Africa and are not naturalized to any other part of the world. They are known as ‘Living Stones’ because they mimic the stones and rocks that they are surrounded by. They are very notable for having a distinct appearance that comes in countless different varieties and forms that are all localized variations to mimic the natural surroundings that it originates in. They have a very distinct appearance that isn’t exactly similar to any other type of plant. This is because of their highly reduced fused pairs of leaves that can range in colors and textures and barely appear plant like at all. Lithops have been bred both naturally and by humans into literally thousands of different varieties.

Luckily pretty much all different varieties and species of Lithops have the same or similar enough care conditions that you don’t need to know much more than that they are Lithops, but for anyone who isn’t a Lithops expert, finding out what particular type is going to be a bit of a challenge. I have included images of several different varieties I have seen before or kept, but a very thorough search on the internet can also help narrow down what type you have even if it doesn’t give you any solid conclusions or answers. 

Here are several different common varieties of Lithops: 

Lithops fulviceps 'Aurea'

Lithops geyeri

Lithops julii

Lithops karasmontana v. lericheana

Lithops otzeniana

Lithops psuedotruncatella v. dendrifi

Lithops salicola

Lithops Growth Pattern

It is evident that from the wide variety of colors and textures that Lithops are true mimicry plants. But that is not the only thing that makes them unique.  Lithops are also unusual in that because they only have a single pair of living or growing leaves at a time, and their habits reflect their “all or nothing” approach. There is a large fissure between the two highly succulent leaves which is where the new set of leaves appears from annually, and when the new leaves appear they take several months to absorb all the nutrients and water from the old pair. This means that you DO NOT GIVE THEM A SINGLE DROP OF WATER. NONE. They already have everything they need all prepackaged inside of them. You need to wait until the old pair of leaves completely shrivels away to a small papery husk before it is safe to water them again. But even when they are not growing a new pair of leaves its very important to only water them when they begin to shrivel or feel slightly soft to the touch. This period will go on until your Lithops hopefully flowers which is a sign that it will soon grow new leaves, or if it was kept in less than ideal conditions it can skip flowering all together. The cycle then repeats itself annually. This cycle is supposed to correlate with the seasons, but often times I have found that the Lithops commonly available are confused and not in tune with the actual seasons of where they are currently. This may change with adequate care over time. 

Lithops Conclusion

Lithops salicola

My own personal Lithops salicola is a really weird plant. I have had other types and species of Lithops numerous times before and I always fail to keep them alive because I usually water them at the incorrect time or they just get smaller and smaller until it just kinda becomes worthless, but I just got this one a few weeks ago because it has been awhile and I have learned a lot since the last time I tried them, and thought why not? I like to pair Lithops salicola with other mesembs like Aloinopsis schooneesi, Fenestraria rhopalophylla, Titanopsis calcarea, Lapidaria margaretae, and Pleiospilos nelii because they are all very small, slow growing, and sensitive to over watering.

General Info

Lithops salicola is a very simple succulent comprised of one set of transparent fused leaves that sit low in the soil and can be completely covered by sand or substrate in the wild. Lithops are known for having a very distinct life cycle of waiting, flowering, more waiting, growing and shriveling, followed by more waiting and can only be watered at certain parts of the cycle. If you do not pay attention to this pattern you will have dead Lithops sooner or later so listen up. 

Lithops are unusual in that because they only have a single pair of living or growing leaves at a time, and their habits reflect their “all or nothing” approach. There is a large fissure between the two highly succulent leaves which is where the new set of leaves appears from annually, and when the new leaves appear they take several months to absorb all the nutrients and water from the old pair. This means that you DO NOT GIVE THEM A SINGLE DROP OF WATER. NONE. They already have everything they need all prepackaged inside of them. You need to wait until the old pair of leaves completely shrivels away to a small papery husk before it is safe to water them again. But even when they are not growing a new pair of leaves its very important to only water them when they begin to shrivel or feel slightly soft to the touch. This period will go on until your Lithops hopefully flowers which is a sign that it will soon grow new leaves, or if it was kept in less than ideal conditions it can skip flowering all together. The cycle then repeats itself annually. 

On a more simple note, Lithops salicola needs bright full sunlight. No real exceptions. It also tolerates both temperature extremes, from below freezing to searing heat but I wouldn’t recommend exposing it to either. Lastly make sure to grow your Lithops salicola in the fastest draining soil because damp roots rot quickly. Despite all this Lithops salicola is one of the easier and more common species to keep, but I would only honestly recommend Lithops salicola to succulent masters and experienced caring plant owners because they are easy to kill because of their specific requirements. 

Characteristics

Native to: South Africa and Namibia

Height: 1-3 inches max

Spread: <1 foot, divides into 2 separate heads occasionally

Hardiness: to 20°F+

Light Requirements: Full Sun

Water Requirements: Light (Light to moderate for succulents)

Flowers: Large and bright white colored flowers in summer-early winter

Other: Drought friendly, sun loving, mimicry plant, ideal potted plant

Species Classification

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Eudicots

Clade: Core Eudicots

Order: Caryophyllales

Family: Aizoaceae

Genus: Lithops

Graptopetalum superbum

My own personal Graptopetalum superbum is a succulent that was formerly known as “Graptopetalum pentandrum subsp. superbum” which is a real mouthful and has recently been changed to just Graptopetalum superbum and considered to be its own individual species. Name drama aside, Graptopetalum superbum is actually super weird in that in the time that I have had it, its rosette has very slowly over time tilted itself to become vertical. Apparently this is just a trait of some particular individuals of this species and I have been threatening it with being rerooted for a long time but I decided to just let this one go because it has a lot of character and is growing very well with little interference. I like to keep my Graptopetalum superbum with Graptopetalum amethystinum and Pachyphytum bracteosum because they are all highly succulent and have similar appearances and care requirements.

General Info

Graptopetalum superbum is a low growing rosette forming lavender-pink or grey ovoid-lanceloate leaved succulent. This plant has compact rosettes that can either grow compact or at the end of long stems. Graptopetalum superbum also has a heavy layer of epicuticular wax which is the powdery white buildup that naturally occurs on the leaves that acts as an added layer of sun, pathogen, and water protection. This wax is very easily disturbed and combined with how easily the leaves are knocked off of this species, it’s best to avoid touching it as much as possible. Graptopetalum superbum can be grown in shadier conditions and have long growing stems, or it can be kept in full sun conditions and stay compact and have more intense coloration. This species isn’t too particular but as always the more sun the better and stronger the growth, even if it is at a slower rate in this case. Graptopetalum superbum also has very thick succulent leaves that are able to store lots of water, especially in the winter months when it is dormant, but surprisingly in summer it enjoys very heavy waterings and can actually need to be watered a bit more frequently than some other types if it’s in a hot bright place. Just make sure not to leave it in sitting water because it will develop root rot. Graptopetalum superbum can handle and survive a frost but it will damage the leaves so I protect mine from temperatures below 36°F just to be safe. It should also be noted that Graptopetalum superbum is very easily propagated from leaves, and the two smaller rosettes are actually successful propagations from early 2014 from some damaged leaves. Graptopetalum superbum is an amazingly easy plant to keep that in the right conditions doesn’t even appear to be real, making it a real strong addition to anybody’s collection or home. 

Characteristics

Native to: Mexico

Height: ≤ 1 foot max

Spread: 2-3 foot max

Hardiness: to 30°F+

Light Requirements: Light Shade to Full Sun

Water Requirements: Moderate (average to heavy for succulents)

Flowers: Small, numerous, yellow & red from late winter to early summer

Other: Drought friendly, rosette forming, easily propagated, attractive coloration, VERY FRAGILE!!!!!

Species Classification

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Eudicots

Clade: Core Eudicots

Order: Saxifragales

Family: Crassulaceae

Genus: Graptopetalum

Crassula arborescens

My own personal Crassula arborescens is a very nice, but also very slow growing succulent, because I have had it for more than two years and in that time it has only grown 2-3 pairs of leaves per stem. It is a very similar species to Crassula ovata in both appearance and growth pattern, except that it grows much more slowly. It also has been cultivated into several different varieties and forms. 

General Info

Crassula arborescens is a arboreal succulent with blue-green spoon or egg shaped succulent leaves that blush pink in bright light conditions, and thick woody grey-brown stems. It’s leaves are covered in a light dusting of epicuticular wax, which is the powdery white buildup that naturally occurs on some succulents which is meant to act as an added layer of protection, against excess sunlight, moisture and pathogens. This wax is easily disturbed by touching the plant so hands off if you want it to maintain it’s pristine condition. Crassula arborescens is a very common succulent and is also very resistant to most forms of abuse which makes it a good plant for beginners. Crassula arborescens prefers bright direct full sunlight, which encourages full strong growth as well as more intense and bold coloration, it can also tolerate shadier conditions but it will grow even more slowly and have longer gaps between the sets of leaves. There is also the chance that new growth will be weak and more susceptible to damage in one form or another. It also enjoys conditions that allow for it to receive heavy waterings then be let dry out thoroughly. Crassula arborescens can tolerate being slightly over watered but doing so consistently will lead to root rot, especially if it is being kept in cooler conditions. Speaking of temperature, Crassula arborescens enjoys warm conditions best but can tolerate near freezing lows. Make sure to protect this species from frost because there is the potential for leaf damage. I think that Crassula arborescens is a very easy to keep plant that doesn’t demand much attention and is a great plant for most people.

Characteristics

Native to: South Africa

Height: 10 ft max, usually less.

Spread: 2-3 ft max,

Hardiness: to 36°F+

Light Requirements: Light Shade to Full Sun

Water Requirements: Moderate (average to heavy for succulents)

Flowers: Small and light pink in spring, harder to accomplish indoors

Other: Drought friendly, easy to bonsai, tough and forgiving.

Species Classification

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Eudicots

Clade: Core Eudicots

Order: Saxifragales

Family: Crassulaceae

Genus: Crassula

Aeonium arboreum 

My own personal Aeonium arboreum is the largest succulent I own, being nearly two feet tall, and growing consistently and quickly. When I originally obtained Aeonium arboreum it was a heavily branching low growing rosette that sort of fell into my care. I wasn’t thrilled about the shape that it was in or the conditions that it had been kept in before I got it, so at the beginning of the next growing season I trimmed off all the branches and rerooted them as smaller individual rosettes and let the main head go arboreal. 

General Info 

Aeonium arboreum is a large rosette forming, readily branching, with bright green spatulate leaves that grow at the top of long thick brown heavily scarred stems. Aeonium arboreum is a eudicot, which means that it’s fallen leaves leave marks on the stems, which is very apparent on this species. It naturally grows tall over time but is very easily trimmed back to just it’s rosette and rerooted to stay compact. Ideally Aeonium arboreum should be kept in bright full light conditions where it will have it’s most intense coloration, blushing a light pink color at the leaf tips, and having the strongest growth and a higher chance of offsetting but it can also tolerate partial sun conditions. Like most succulents Aeonium arboreum likes being watered thoroughly in a fast draining soil and then let go dry. It is easy to know when it needs water because it’s leaves wrinkle very noticeably and are very soft to the touch and visibly droop when it needs a drink. It is said that Aeonium arboreum can tolerate a frost, but in my experience it’s leaves are in fact more tender than expected, so I wouldn’t expose it to temperatures lower than 36°F. Aeonium arboreum is a very vigorously growing succulent that is easy to keep either as a smaller potted specimen or as a large garden plant that can grow to massive sizes.

Characteristics 

Native to: Canary Islands

Height: 6 foot max

Spread: 1 foot max

Hardiness: from 35°F 

Light Requirements: Partial Shade to Full Sun

Water Requirements: Moderate (average to heavy for succulents)

Flowers: Yellow from early fall to early spring, rosette dies after flowering

Other: Drought tolerant, low maintenance, easily propagated, large rosette quick growing.

Species Classification

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Eudicots

Clade: Core Eudicots

Order: Saxifragales

Family: Crassulaceae

Genus: Aeonium

Sedum morganianum

My own personal Sedum morganianum was purchased mainly because I found one that was in amazing condition. Usually you find Sedum morganianum pretty roughed up and missing a lot of leaves and usually dehydrated because it’s VERY DELICATE but this particular one was doing super well and although it’s one of the more popular varieties I was never really excited about to too much before I saw this one. I feel like Sedum morganianum is the perfect compromise between the two types of succulent sedums: the highly prostrate groundcover-y types and the more succulent thicker leaved types, because it has the characteristics of both. I like to keep Sedum morganianum with other “hanging” succulents like Senecio rowleyanus, Oscularia deltoides, or Senecio herreianus.

General Info

Sedum morganianum is a very thick oblanceolate seafoam green leaved succulent that grows thickly clustered with leaves along the dangling trailing stems. There are several different varieties of this plant, with the main difference being the shape of the leaves with some being more rounded (like the one pictured above) or some being more pointed and teardrop shaped. They all have identical characteristics and are essentially the same. Sedum morganianum does best in conditions that most closely recreate it’s native cliffside growing conditions, which in this case means that it makes a better potted plant than a garden plant in most cases because it’s stems prefer to freely hang and not rest on the soil. It’s also important to note that the leaves of Sedum morganianum are highly fragile and fall off easily with as little as a delicate touch or sometimes for no reason at all. Ideally this plant would be able to sit permanently in a safe spot away from the action undisturbed. Sedum morganianum can tolerate a range of light conditions, being able to tolerate Partial Shade, but preferring Full Sun where it will have brighter coloration of it’s leaves, maybe even blushing a pink, lavender, or yellow color and have much stronger more consistent growth. On the other hand it doesn’t tolerate heat as well, meaning that it would enjoy some shade from hot midday sunlight if necessary. Sedum morganianum is also highly intolerant of frost, needing to be protected from temperatures below 36°F, with leaf damage and death  occurring at lower temperatures. Lastly Sedum morganianum is very drought tolerant and only needs water when it’s leaves begin to shrivel and appear soft, but this can happen more quickly to smaller plants or if they are kept in brighter hotter conditions. I would very highly recommend Sedum morganianum to anyone looking for a very highly ornamental succulent that in exchange is a bit more delicate and less tolerant of extreme conditions.

Characteristics

Native to: Mexico

Height: 6 inches max, usually fall over under their own weight

Spread: stems can hang up to 5 feet long

Hardiness: from 36°F

Light Requirements: Partial Shade to Full Sun

Water Requirements: Moderate (average for succulents)

Flowers: Pink at the end of stems that die back after flowering. 

Other: Low maintenance, easily propagated, amazing potted plant, attractive foliage.

Species Classification

Kingdom: Plantae

Clade: Angiosperms

Clade: Eudicots

Clade: Core Eudicots

Order: Saxifragales

Family: Crassulaceae

Genus: Sedum

@technicolorpoetry:

Hi! I bought this little one at Lowe’s several weeks ago, but it was missing its tag so I have no idea what species it is! Thanks for any help you can offer in identifying it~

@letsturtwigthings:

I bought way too many plants yesterday, but these are the only mystery ones. They came with the very helpful labels of ‘echeveria’ and 'aloe.’ Thanks!!

@mylittleplanties:

Hi!! Love your blog! I just got this lil gal today, but she came marked as “assorted succulent”, like many of the others. I’ve been able to identify my other purchases but am a tad stumped on this one. The closest I can find is echeveria pulvinata “frosty”, but I’m not sure. Hoping you could help?? Sorry the pic quality is not that great!!!

Asterales are an order of flowering plants.

They are organized by molecular phylogenetics, meaning that they organized by genetic evolutionary relationships and not by physical attributes alone.

Genetic evolutionary relationships refers to a plants evolutionary history, and their hereditary molecular differences. It relies on the idea that plants all have shared ancestors that evolved differently and therefore have somewhat different and somewhat similar genetics.  By analyzing a plants genetics it allows for an understanding of who shared ansestors and where divergent evolutionary moments took place and uses DNA to illustrate plants different genetic relationships to each other.

The order of Asterales contains 11 families, 1,743 genera, and nearly 27,000 species. Asterales seem to have all evolved from one common ancestor, because they all share physical and chemical characteristics. Members of the Asterales order are found all over the world, including desert and arctic areas, creating a large amount of diversity in the various species. the two largest families that make up a huge chunk of the Asterales are the Asteraceae and the Campanulaceae. The Asteraceae family contains 23,000 of the Asterales and the only other family on earth that contains a similar amount of species is the Orchidaceae, the orchid family. Notable Asterales are sunflowers, dandelions, daisys, ragweed, thistles, lettuces, artichokes and many many more. There are a number of Asterales that are not only important food crops, but also ornamental and chemical producing crops that are used in various ways in the world. 

Click here to see all the Asterales on Partial-Sun

I think all plant lovers can agree that winter sucks. 

And depending on where you live it can either only kinda suck, or REALLY REALLY suck. Luckily enough here in zone 6a, winter REALLY REALLY REALLY sucks, and pretty much every succulent that wants to live to see spring and not frozen to death needs to be brought indoors and properly cared for. 

And you would be surprised how difficult “properly cared for” can really be when you have no idea what you are doing and what succulents need and don’t need then they are basically being strung along for 3-6 months of the year until the threat of frost has passed and they can return to the great outdoors. But hopefully this week we can help you get a jump start on the overwintering process for succulents, which has secretly been going on for awhile now. 

Succulents have several basic needs: Sunlight, soil, water, and warm temperatures, and nutrients. And all of these factors need to play a part in how you care for your succulents over winter. 

Let’s go over what you’re gonna aim for:

Sunlight: AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE Soil: Unchanged (bad timing for repotting) Water: Less (don’t let things get too dry) Temperature: As warm as possible (NO FROST) Nutrients: None needed (NO FERTILIZER)

Making all of these things happen is usually how to find the limit of your succulent collection, because there is only so much you can do without purchasing extra expensive equipment to sustain you collection. 

Do not be surprised if some plants you have aren’t able to live through the winter because of whatever reason, your fault or not, especially if you are just starting out. Accidents happen, and maybe your plant was struggling before the seasons even changed. This will help you learn what plants you can take care of, and which ones maybe aren’t for you and your current situation. 

Best solutions to over wintering goals:

Sunlight: FIND YOUR BRIGHTEST SET OF WINDOWS, they are usually South or West facing. Place one or several small end tables (preferably ones that can be lightly damaged or scratched) directly in front of said windows. Estimate how much space that is going to provide you considering how many plants you have. Maybe one small table can fit your whole collection. Maybe you need three and are going to have to figure out a way to stack tables without losing light OR find another spot to take over. Do whatever you gotta do to get your succulents in the sun’s rays as best as you can. It doesn’t have to be pretty because the succulents are gonna help with that. 

Soil: DON’T DO ANYTHING, if you need to change a succulent’s container or soil DO IT NOW DO IT TODAY, or wait until spring. Spring is a much better time for that. 

Water: Realize that your plants are going to need less and less water, but don’t suddenly start ignoring them. If anything pay more attention to them. Check the firmness of their leaves often. And water them when they need it. Maybe a bit less thoroughly then you would in summer, but still give them a good bit of water if they are thirsty. There is no set time or frequency that they are going to need water (like the once a month in winter myth) so you need to check on them, but use a light hand when watering.

Temperature: DONT LET YOUR SUCCULENTS FREEZE. They might live and be undamaged. They might live but be ugly for the next two years. They might live at first but not be able to survive the winter. They might ENTIRELY MELT AND TURN TO MUSH. Nobody wants to chance that. Also make sure that the windows you are placing your plants in front of isn’t excessively leaky because thats bad. You can always seal your windows if they are and move your tables slightly away from them so that the cooler air isn’t going to freeze the leaves of your closest succulents (which has happened to me).

Nutrients: No fertilizer ever (notable exceptions aside).

One final tip: PLAY FAVORITES. Pay more attention to plants that mean more to you, because then they have a better chance at surviving. put them closest to the window and in the best spot so that they are more likely to make it through winter. 

There are some other things you can do for them if you aren’t afraid of getting a bit more involved, or if your plants are very important to you. 

Plant Grow Lights: These are NOT NORMAL LIGHT BULBS. DON’T WASTE YOUR TIME WITH NORMAL LIGHT BULBS (I have tried and just burnt a bunch if tender succulents…) You can buy bulbs and fixtures that will suit your needs with a range of prices. It might be best to only invest in something small at first for your most treasured plants. Also know that you will need something to suspend the light 2-4 inches above your plants from if you want to invest in supplementary growth lights. I have never tried to do so myself but plenty of others have done so successfully.

Grow Box: This is like a more advanced and efficient version of Grow Lights. The point is to create a box that will keep all the light given off of the light source inside the box and re-scatter it around using a reflective surface to maximize the amount of light hitting the photosynthetic parts of your plant. You can make a VERY DIY one at home with an old aquarium, some aluminum foil, an optional warming device (one used for reptiles?) and a sufficient light source. You need to adhere CRUMPLED AND REFLATTEDED aluminum foil to all the sides of the glass aquarium and then place your plants inside and install the light source on the top (using whatever method depending on what it is or the size of it. A light hood with a strong grow bulb would probably work best). It’s important to seal up any light leaks so that the box looks dark on the outside. because it defeats he purpose if light is leaking out of it.

Overwintering Service: In all my online research I have seen more than once  a service offered where you can rent out a small space in a large commercial greenhouse to over winter your plants for a fee. It sounds crazy to me, but apparently people do it.

Buy a Greenhouse: If you are seriously doing this, AND STILL READING MY BLOG BUY ME ONE TOO BECAUSE I DESERVE IT. MESSAGE ME YOUR INFO AND I’LL GIVE YOU A SHOUTOUT OR SOMETHING.

Let all your plants die and start over in spring: Another option. Seemingly futile in my opinion but to each his own.

Move to Zone 10-11: A little extreme but I would be lying if I said I never considered it.