At The Swiss Plain
It seemed like an endless week void of sleep, where rolling out of bed felt like too much work for the day and where nights couldn't come soon enough. And yet sleep didn't hit until after midnight. When you calculate the sleep you'll have a week in advance, you know it's time for saying no to invitations.Â
For Tuesday we planned our pottery class, and under planned I mean we have been planning it for the past one year. This time we nailed down an appointment. Katja was typically long in the office and I was hugging my pillow for sleep and sending out a prayer to postpone our postponed session. It didn't work. Katja dressed into old rags and leather boots and we walked down dark narrow streets to the unknown location of the hidden atelier. We found it between two crumbling apartment buildings. Our first impression was that the place was a bit small, our second impression pushed our first one to irrelevance as there were solely 70 something aged pupils inside. Besides, it was 7.02 p.m. and the appointment was for 7.00, so there was that. We were rocking on our heels hesitantly for another minute, longing for a movie night in bed, then I entered the room.
As the incoming air hit their faces, the scent of fresh meat turned the heads of the old hags and watched us as we carefully sat down to a table. We entered enemy territory. They grabbed their ugly little pots and painted them twice as hard as before. A shy instructor lady deep under the average age walked up to us, dropped a hunk of clay on the table and took us under her halo of guidance. She was one of those innocent souls lost in an ocean of chaos, the type who has a prayer for breakfast and a priest's penis for lunch. I know, christian jokes, not always funny.Â
As we were forming our hideous little cups her fragile soul tried to keep our spirits high, frightened we might get dischanted with our first results.
"You know, people come here and expect to make masterpieces on the first try."
"Oh no way."
We were clearly one of them.
"It's true! And it's the wrong attitude to have, when a mug isn't perfectly symmetrical, it doesn't mean it's worse than the rest. That doesn't make it less valuable."Â
"I agree so much. It makes them unique."
Grow up lady, of course we wanted beautifully symmetrical cups. Yet her eyes lit on fire at the sudden connection we made by being on the same wave.
"You really think so?"Â
"Yes. Actually, we came here with the explicit goal to make crooked cups. I'm glad it worked out."
Katja was laughing and thus confused Lost Soul lady, raising her doubt about my deep sincerity. She brushed them away and continued our training.
By Wednesday my eyes were staring at the screen yet the pulse hammering in my head washed the letters away, I hated everyone and wanted to punch everyone in the throat. So I decided to go to the gym. As I was at home wrapping my scarf delicately around my neck a gentle buzz slit the air, and behind the front door some guy with an ugly mustache and a pop-out belly stood squeezing his stack of papers.
"I'm here to check the water meter."
There is a reason I don't open the door when someone rings. They always want something. And I'm afraid of strangers.
He was uninvitable inside, shuffling uncomfortably before the threshold, so I was left with the dreadful task of figuring out what a water-meter is as he was bombing me with useful instructions:
"Read the warm water first."
"It's 720."
"That's impossible. It was 240 last year."
"Well it is 720 now."
He battled fiercely with his principles for another half minute, then he walked inside to check it himself.
"That's ... the gas meter."
He gave a shot not to chuckle to himself, but it didn't work. Another entry on my 'punch in the throat' list. I gently gestured for him to hurry up and get the hell out.
The alarm woke me at 3 a.m. and skipping the Swiss trip suddenly seemed like an attractive possibility. Nevertheless Katja got up so I went with the flow. Once we were flight-ready Katja called the first taxi company for a cheap ride, but it turned out that they were all packed. And so were the second and third and all of them and her pupils dilated and her voice got shrill. There was still Uber left, the billion dollar company with its billion dollar user interface I couldn't use nor comprehend. I gave it a fresh try. As my order got accepted and we left the apartment for the street, I realized no one was coming. So I ordered another one, pacing through the chilly morning and prickling rain, slowly starting to panic while Katja was on the verge of hysteria, and then, finally, at the last minute, someone accepted the ride. A big dark skinned guy with his suspicious van. A savior sent from above, by the satellites of Google Maps and the software of Uber. We got to the bus just on time.
I have experienced for a lifetime a sad incapability of falling asleep fast or sleeping on moving objects.
'Please brain, just, come on, go to sleep.'
'Oh you poor thing. You've slept only for 3 hours?'
'Yes, yes it's true.'
'Well I don't give a fuck.'
My contact lenses were burning, lodged in my eyes. Every second I could somehow turn to sleep was already sketched in my head, an hour on the bus, another on the airport, maybe a half on the flight. Katja felt decently refreshed so decided to stay awake. Once we sat down in the bus, she dropped into sweet unconsciousness in a second and I was left alone listening to the creaking and squeaking of my clenched teeth on the bus. And on the airport. And on the flight. She only woke fully when we arrived.
I had heavy dreams built up about Switzerland in my lifetime. Perfectly aligned buildings showering in fragrant flowers, fighting a constant identity crisis whether they are modern or classical, air with freshness that could be bottled, creeks of crystal water splashing the edges of newly oiled streets, purple cows bathing in Swiss chocolate and peacefully awaiting slaughter. A true nirvana. The reality had big shoes to fill.Â
It wasn't anything like that. The Zurich station was trapped in fog and rain, everything had a grey hue about it and every price tag seemed to have been raised by a triple just for the heck of it. An immense amount of graffiti was covering every conceivable surface. At times I thought it was purposely initiated by the city to catch up on hipness . It wasn't. Most buildings were simplistic and grey, a dance of concrete and steel and glass, used efficiently to host thousands of faceless people pushing numbers and papers from one stack to another. Zurich was the business hub of the country. Quite the disappointment, given my unachievable standards it had to live up to.
We were taking our steps amid the strengthening rain and the wind was brushing our sides so we seeked refuge under the bell of a plain white church. Children from a school trip were stacking up next to us, a cultural m&m package, of every skin color and ethnicity, speaking terrible English, so we could label them as Britons with ease. They were throwing unsure side looks at us as we were clearly staring them down with cheap ham sandwiches wrapped in aluminium foil stuffed in our faces. When we turned to the entrance of the church, the masses parted in unison in front of us, much like the red sea before the pure hearted people of Jerusalem. Inside there was only us and a lesbian Asian couple, the organ was played in some hidden chamber. The walls were strangely lacking any type of kitsch one is so used to from a lifetime of promenading through prominent catholic churches. They seemed to think God doesn't care much about it, and I had to agree with them.Â
We made a round around the city center where towers with clocks were hidden by grander towers with clocks, you would think after the fourth one they would have considered adding the clock as redundant. Next to the opera house we found a piece of empty dock side filled with lazy seagulls covering the sidewalk. Our arrival alarmed them and they joined in forming a bird tornado swirling around us; I walked past them feeling the brush of their feathers on my skin while Katja was making selfies like crazy. After our second cup of cheapest McDonals coffee the sun took some initiative to smash the clouds apart and in an unexpected moment we got a glimpse of the sunshine covered Alps behind the glittering lake covered on both sides by majestic towers, all showing the same hour.Â
Dada stopped by for us on her Passat that by the time we all sat inside somehow refused to start. On the second try Dada threw in a threat and on the third one a prayer, and on the fourth one the engine started, yet puffed violently every time the car slowed close to a halt. Dada was cursing like mad, on everything and everyone, on grandpas and handicapped people, new and old cars, you name it.Â
"Get out of the way or I'll help you to your grave!"
"Why are you on the streets if you can't walk?!"
"Get your piece of trash car away from here!"
"Get your super expensive car away from here!"
It didn't really matter to her. Old guys on crutches were somersaulting away from our car to stay alive. Dada was a little anxious we might get the wrong impression of her given her aggressiveness behind the wheel, and it wasn't completely unreasonable from her to think that. We glided through the landscape up until Basel, where it seemed every building of interest was built with powdery bricks of crimson, and the ones that weren't got red paint smacked on their facades to melt in with the rest. Before we arrived, Dada googled 'interesting things to do in Basel' to keep things exciting for us. The top result was swimming through the Rhine, that's how captivating the city was. It was slowly getting dark by the time we arrived to the French border where a handful of policemen were staring through the car windows to spot the danger flowing in or out of their country, but we were sufficiently white not to get stopped by them.Â
Dada's home was lovely, a two story old house a few hundred paces from Basel, wedged between a noisy German and an unseen French neighbor. Her son Alex was waiting for us with his Serbian nanny, to him known by the name of baka. She was usually out of the picture, sitting on a crate in the garage smoking one cigarette after another, as far as I knew. Oh and Alex. We have met twice before and although by what I have seen he was maybe moderately rebellious, he had a reputation of being the third reincarnation of Lucifer himself. After a fast lunch Dada had to go to work and Katja was given the task to satisfy Alex's need to sell imaginary soup and ice cream to imaginary giraffes and pirates who, by the way, were paying him way too little money. At the first window of opportunity we threw in a weak excuse and left to roam the French village. There really wasn't much to see, yet it was a bristling experience for me to see people ordering freshly baked baguette and fromage, on the streets, in French, as if it were the most natural thing on the world, which for them it doubtless was. I wanted to stop random people and throw some French rambling at them and my wish got close to fulfillment. As we heading to the entrance of a local store, a shady french man clearly not in his right mind edged closed enough to talk to us.
"This store is a Coop store?"
What. "Si. I mean oui."
He nodded to himself with a satisfied smile, glad he was right all along. Of course it is possible I grandly misunderstood and he asked me whether I wear underwear or not.
The store itself was hardly remarkable, except for the wine section, which occupied a quarter of the space. The wine section had its own special section filled with exquisite samples and armed with a somelier who was swinging from one customer to another illuminating them with his knowledge. The French seemed very dedicated to their wine, much like the Slovaks to their home made spirits.Â
Around 7 p.m. Zoran arrived, still wearing his work clothes. Since I was still running on my 3 hours of sleep, my contact lenses started popping dryly out of my eye sockets as we were talking, making me blink rapidly like an epileptic. Zoran wore short sleeves this time, showcasing his thoroughly tattooed arms, making him look even more like a Slav gangster from the Bronx.Â














