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I am going through my mom’s things. I was surprised and hurt to find a printed email to her best friend from November 2025 saying that I didn’t show affection. She needed to be seen as the victim. In the email, she said Margit was Lisa-like. She wrote: “she can be nasty and mean and also helpful and thoughtful.” I finally met  Margit, who had quiet tears she kept wiping as we talked about my mom.…

I did an NLP session with a friend about my mom’s death. She acknowledged that how I feel was very complex, that there were many moving parts and not one answer. She said let’s work on one part and see how I feel and how it changes. I told her I couldn’t feel my mom’s love, that I was so used to her expecting me to be perfect and help her, and that sometimes I was very afraid that I wouldn’t be…

September 1 – 5, 2024. Morelia. I arrived in the UNESCO world heritage site historic center of Morelia on a week night and was surprised at the crush of people on every possible sidewalk and square. I was in search of an Airbnb tucked away in an old apartment a few blocks from downtown. I barely made it around the corner, the streets were so narrow. Gingerly, I parked my car in a spot (and left…

August 26, 2024, Mexico. I’d heard talk of how beautiful Lake Chapala is. This was my first visit, and I marveled as I drove from Mascota, watching the changing landscape. I had planned to stay with an American friend who’d moved over ten years ago. The town of Ajijic had been overrun by American retirees, though there were also a fair number of Mexican artists. I had hoped to stay for a week,…

I have news for you: the stag bellsWinter snows, wind high and cold, the sun low, short its courseThe sea running highDeep red the bracken, its shape is lostThe wild goose has raised its accustomed cryCold has seized the birds wingsSeason of iceThis is my news(From a 9th century Celtic bard) When harpers once in wooden hallA shining chord would strikeTheir songs like arrows pierced the soulOf…

August 23, 2024, Mexico. I checked out of El Pabellon and headed to Cafeteria Churrería Ferran, where I chatted with my friend and enjoyed an exotic churro with coffee. I was sad to say goodbye, and felt nostalgic as I headed down the sinewy gravel road and out to the highway. I was taking Hwy 544 east to Mascota, another pueblo magico, an hour or so away. I parked in the historic center of…

August 21, 2024. I woke up after the most restful sleep of the trip thus far. I searched for a latte place and found a grocery store that made espressos. Cool store, but machine latte. Not my favorite. I ran into the boisterous family from Guadalajara, who were eating at a lovely restaurant. I kept searching and finally found Cafeteria Churrería Ferran, right around the corner from the hotel.…

August 18, 2024. Before heading south to Puerto Vallarta, I drove 10 minutes north through the jungle to San Francisco, a quaint town which had been recommended to me. Essentially, it was Sayulita 10 or 20 years ago. Much quieter, laid back, and mostly frequented by Europeans rather than Americans, San Francisco was a lovely place. I walked out to the main beach and spent 20 minutes exploring the…

August 13, 2024, México. I left Mazatlan and headed south for my next desertion, Sayulita in Nayarit. I’d been encouraged to visit the quaint surfer town by a writer friend who’d driven there with her son over Christmas break. She had painted a vivid portrait of the journey and was confident I’d be okay driving in Mexico. I took her word for it. I hit a refreshing thunderstorm in the late…

My gallbladder removal surgery went well and was able to be laparoscopic. Unfortunately, though, it had the side effect of blurry vision and burning dry eyes. Some of the nurses at Stanford thought it would go away in a couple of days, while other nurses weren’t so sure. I’ve written to my ophthalmologist about it, and of course I am hoping for relief from it soon. Also unexpectedly, I learned…

August 1, 2024, California. I finally took the plunge. I’d been delaying leaving on my trip for Mexico since July. But a camp reunion in early October and travel plans in November would cut my trip short. If I didn’t leave now, I wouldn’t have enough time to see what (and whom) I wanted. As it was, I had to cut my trip short. Thankfully, friends (Mark and Nina) had enticed me to join them for a…

August 9, 2024, México. I bid Evan goodbye, thanking him for his hospitality, and stopped at Salt & Pepper Cafe to pick up a giant breakfast burrito. We had eaten there the day before, and it had been excellent. Huge portions, a fancy greasy spoon. I headed for Nogales, not realizing I had 5 more hours before I’d reach the border. I had an Airbnb reservation that night in Hermosillo and wasn’t…

August 11, 2024, Mexico. I awoke and packed, heading to Mazatlán. It was already a scorcher at 8:30am. I hoped to arrive early enough to walk around the old town. I’d been warned not to drive through Ciudad Juarez and heeded the warning, taking a significant detour around the city known to be a narco hot spot. Nevertheless, I was stopped several times that day by men wearing black bandanas over…

October 28, 2023, El Salvador.  After a night of little sleep, I decided to check out the possibility of staying in the dorm at Papaya Lodge. A friendly guy at Canuck’s had told me not to stay there as a laptop had been stolen in the dorm earlier that week, as well as some of his things.  The guys at Canuck told me later that he lied to get pity and money. I had fallen prey to his ruse, and was…

October 25, 2023, Nicaragua. I was jolted awake at 6 a.m. by the smell of cigarette smoke wafting in through my open window. The barking dogs didn’t help either. I got up, did a quick load of laundry, and hung it to dry. Then I chatted with Estrella and her aunt. Watching Estrella working nonstop while her husband lounged around made me think: if it weren’t for women, nothing would get done—at…

October 21, 2023, Nicaragua. I was excited about heading to Matagalpa but no so much about having to go through Managua which I’d heard was an urban jungle, with a lot of poverty. It also seemed to be the epicenter of the Ortega government, and quite totalitarian from what I could gather.  I had sought explicit instructions on which bus to take and where to get off.  And as was often the case,…

October 16, 2023, Nicaragua. I was anxious about missing the morning ferry. If I did, it could take more than a day to reach my next destination, Granada. I had tried asking around—locals, the hostel—but no one knew the transit schedule. It seems like schedules here are fluid at best. Travel reminded me of what I imagine India might be like: when you set out, you’d better be prepared to camp…