Cosmetology Blog

Red to brown color correction

Platinum to dark brown multitone with a tintback

Autumn ombre airtouch lights and color melt

Full head airtouch + babylight combo

ash gold / titanium + gold

cendre brown / violet pearl + brown gold / violet blue + gold beige

For example, a potential game plan could be:

Partial foils 09gb

Tint between 06n + 7gi

All over toner 09b + 09v

20 foil highlights blondor + 6vol

tint between 06n + 07gb

all over toner 09t + 09g

The client had long and thick hair, natural level 4 with previous highlights done half a year ago. I used Redken Flash Lift starting with 20 vol and ending with 30. I picked out the already-lightened bits because I didn’t think they could handle another round of bleach. A level 8 ash gold toner with a root smudge would’ve totally fixed the situation, but the client wanted to be as blonde as possible straight up to the root. So I just did a global toner of equal parts 010P + 010Gi .

The biggest problem for me is that what I bleached during the service lifted bright and icy, but the already lightened bits I picked out were more of a golden level 8/9. Addition nitpicks include not getting flush to the scalp, more like a 3/8 inch margin; finding some spots where I didn’t match up the previous weave perfectly; and the very first millimeter at the root having a slight brassy discoloration.

The main thing I should’ve done differently is put Wella Blondor with 6 vol on the already-lightened bits that I picked out to gently bump up the level. Also, I should’ve done horizontal slices, because that gives an overall blonder appearance than weaving and allows for super tight foils to the scalp.

The instructions were to use equal parts Redken Cover Fusion 6NN + 6NBr with 20 volume developer. I do the root touch up first and let that process for 30 minutes. I do not throw out the extra color. After the roots are done I apply the rest on the mids and ends and let sit for 5 minutes.

So the trouble began when I got to the mids and ends. I took 1 inch horizontal subsections and made sure I had thorough saturation. Also, it didn’t help that I ran out of the old extra color and so I had to go make some more (but I used 10 volume, because I figured old 20vol should equal out to fresh 10vol). Anyways, the problem was that the client didn’t want their mids and ends darkened like AT ALL. I suppose my coworker can be very speedy about it, and so the color doesn’t have time to really deposit. Which is how the client likes it. This crucial detail was not communicated to me, and so my application took too long.

If I had known from the get go, I would have told my coworker that I’m just not fast enough for this sort of express service. A different coworker took over the decolorizing process, while I observed. A combination of clarifying shampoo and very diluted Pulp Riot Clean Canvas was used. The different coworker told me later that cover fusion is just in general unsuitable for refreshing mids and ends, and so my instructions were prone to go pear shaped.