HOMES FOR LIFE

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Who needs a ramp? Everyone. From moving furniture in and out of a house, to moms with babies in strollers, to wheel chair users...everyone can benefit from the use of a ramp. Even the ADA put ramps in their mandates. So, what is a ramp? A ramp is an inclined surface. For wheeled access the guidelines for a ramp are: for every one inch of rise (change in elevation) the ramp length should be 12 inches. For example: for a typical home that has the first floor 2 feet above the grade outside, a ramp structure would need to be 24 feet long (assuming a straight ramp). The actual structure in this case would probably be larger as there would need to be turns with 5′ x 5′ level platforms. This ramp structure below is representative of approximately a 2 foot or greater rise.

Here is the detail at the bottom of the ramp where the concrete meets the wood for a smooth transition.

If the rise is a one-step rise, a ramp can be created by re-pouring a concrete sidewalk as in the following examples.

Forms for the pour - notice that a portion of the existing sidewalk remains and will have concrete poured over.

After the concrete is poured at a 1:12 slope.

The grade is brought up to the edge of the new concrete ramp and landscaping helps to minimize even knowing there is a ramp here.

If you know of a situation where a homeowner has installed a dangerous wood ramp like this that will deteriorate over time and with use...suggest that a poured concrete ramp would be far superior and safer.

This blog entry will address whether to use interior ramps or not. Keep in mind that the slope of ramps should follow this rule: for every one inch up - go one foot out. For example, for a 4 inch step the ramp should be 4 feet long.

Does your home have changes of levels within the footprint? Like into a garage or a “sunken” living room? Consider that interior ramps may be your solution if you have any mobility issues or just want to have a home that is easier to use. Here is a picture of a solution we designed from a garage into a home.

One problem that should be fixed here is that the remodeling contractor did not put the correct threshold at the door. What is needed is something called a “low profile” threshold. 

Here is another design where a converted garage to living space was one step down from the main house. We designed an interior ramp to help with the transition.

One change that should be made is to the handrail - the ends should not be open (sleeves can get caught and cause a fall) but rather they should be turned into the wall. 

Some homes have raised foyers that step down into other main living spaces like in this photo below. This temporary aluminum ramp was not anchored to the floor and felt un-safe when walking or rolling on it. 

The solution in this case was to remove the raised foyer and re-pour the concrete level with the existing rooms to either side. Eliminating the step altogether.

Notice that the front door was re-hung with added framing above (the arched transom window remained and the space between the window and the top of the door was increased). The wheel chair user in the home can now answer the front door safely.  

MY FAVORITE SUBJECT - Showers with NO curb, also called “walk-in” showers, universal design showers, wheelchair accessible showers, no step entry showers...what it comes down to is you do not have to step over or into the showering wet space. Contrary to popular belief, the water does not come out if the shower curtain is hung at a height that would put the bottom of the curtain as close to the floor as possible (no more than 2 inches off the floor). At the end of this posting, I've placed a visual explanation of how this type of shower is constructed. If you would like a consultation on making one of these showers in your own home, please give us a call. Adventure in Building 407-222-5582.  

Here is an example of a converted bathroom - some space was captured from the laundry room behind the shower to make the shower larger. The floor tile size was changed to make constructing the slope easier.

In this instance, the tile design was made to emulate a riverbed “like showering outside”...all that is needed are some plants. 

In this instance, changing the floor tile makes the actual sloped area easier to construct. 

Although curb-less, I do not consider this an accessible shower - the opening is too narrow. This was in a home I owned and remodeled for myself over 15 years ago. 

In this shower, the floor tile remained the same size due to the use of a trench drain so that most of the floor slopes in one direction. Yes, I know, the hand held shower faucet is not connected yet....oops. 

Here is a step by step photo illustration of building a curb-less shower (even creating a wet-room using a mud-set method (similar to a traditional method but just not building the curb). Start with a recess in the floor - whether a concrete slab or frame construction.

On this Memorial Day weekend, I’m sure many homeowners are considering using the extra time for home maintenance chores. Perhaps some will even be climbing the dreaded ladder to clean gutters. Especially if “growies” are seen (this indicates that the gutters are creating the perfect compost medium - aka soil - from accumulation of debris and trapped moisture). 

Although the term “ease of use” implies ways to make one’s home life easier “inside”, the term actually can apply to exterior home maintenance as well. It’s intuitive that ladder climbing is a risky business and often results in accidents and falls...so, keeping off ladders may be the best solution. Let’s examine to Gutter or not to Gutter. In the remodel below, the condo’s large tree in the backyard had already - over the years - created an accumulation of leaves on the roof. 

The project was for a couple with physical challenges and needed a walkway from the rear bedroom door for egress. A concrete sidewalk was built and was sloped slightly toward the rear yard so the water coming off the roof would fall onto the concrete surface and then run-off into the rear yard area.

The plans did NOT specify gutters on purpose.

The Remodeling contractor installed gutters anyway. Several issues are present that will cause problems over time: 1. the amount of water coming out of the downspout is so forceful that it tends to wash out the ground  so a curb was installed that keeps the water from flowing into the grass, creating dam, 2. the water gets trapped near the downspout and grows slime which creates a slip hazard, 3. the downspout sticks out into the sidewalk area, reducing the width of the sidewalk, 4. the gutter will accumulate debris and have to be cleaned out regularly costing the homeowners money because they are physically not able to clean the gutter themselves. The homeowner needs to have the gutter, downspout, and curb removed for “ease of use”. 

If not using gutters, the area below the “drip line” of the roof needs to be either an impermeable surface or perhaps a rock bed with a french drain below to direct the water away from the exterior walls of the home. 

In some cases, gutter is needed to direct water coming off the roof away from the exterior walls of the home. In the instance below, for some reason, the downspout has fallen off the gutter and has not been re-installed. Over time the amount of water falling straight down will wash away the soil and can undermine the foundation at the corner of this home. The foundation can shift and cracks can form leading to water intrusion into the home. This homeowner needs to repair the downspout and have a piece added at the bottom that directs the water onto the paved surface so the water will flow away from the home.   

When using gutters it may be advantageous to capture some of the rainwater with a rain barrel. This rain barrel has a screen at the top to keep mosquitoes from making the standing water their breeding ground. A drip irrigation hose is attached to the bottom spout of the rain barrel which allows water to flow to the garden area slowly and without effort of turning the spout. In actual use, the amount of water that comes off this roof area during a 1″ rain event, fills the barrel almost immediately and several barrels could be installed linked together to capture even more water.  

Finally, if using gutters and the thought of an unattractive square tube being attached to the home is objectionable, consider using a rain chain. The chain is attached at the top to the outlet of the gutter where the downspout would be. The rain chain does not “capture” water but directs the flow and creates an interesting water fall effect. The chain below is tied to a rock in the bottom of the rock filled pottery pot. The rocks in the pot help to dissipate the force of the water and to prevent wash out. This pot has a hole in the bottom and drains the water into the flower bed area. An alternate solution would be for the pot to be placed on a deck or impermeable surface sloped away from the home.    

How many homes today have a large garden bathtub? 

How many of those large garden bathtubs are actually used and who likes to clean them? Did you know that eliminating the unused bathtub is one of the best ways to gain space and get a nice size shower in a bathroom remodel? Here is the new shower. Notice that there is no curb and a nice bench was built-in. 

Even the removal of a regular size bathtub can offer additional space - in this case some area for the shower was captured from a laundry room behind the shower wall. Here is the “before” bathroom.

Does this look familiar? How about reaching those controls and cleaning out that shower door track? Yuck. Here is the solution.

Lucky Lever Handles (since we’re on idea 13 of course). Here’s a test - put on a really heavy pair of gloves and try to open the door with a knob handle...or carry a very large box and try to get in to door with a knob handle...this will give you an idea of what it may be like for someone with arthritis or limited upper body mobility. 

There has to be a better way - an “easier” way - and a not too costly way. Here is an assistive device that attaches to existing knobs (say you are renting and don’t have the ability to change out the door hardware - this might work for you):

Or, if you can change out the hardware - Enter the lever handle...

Here is an exterior door (with added security of code entry for the deadbolt if there will be multiple caregivers entering a home).

Here is an interior door.

Here is an interior door with a bit of a flair. (the small object at the hinge is a door stop that is attached at the hinge pin to keep the door from hitting the wall).

Now, I will say that Adventure in Building recently had a client with a very specific challenge - a home with very smart cats (like this one):

Not one for statisitical analysis, I won’t bore the reader with statisitics on FALLS IN BATHROOMS from getting into and out of BATHTUBS, however, just suffice it to say that it happens way too often. Sometimes, if one’s reflexes are quick, a recovery can happen and one can catch oneself before a major injury occurs. If not so quick, one can go all the way down and on the way encounter lots of hard objects such as countertop corners, ceramic toilet bowls, tile floors, etc. It usually is NOT PRETTY. So, what’s the solution? Today we’ll look at one option for those that like a soak vs just a spritz. 

This example is a condo remodel for a client who was a wheel chair user. She loved to feel the buoyancy of water and often spent a lot of time in the tub making phone calls and reading. Her existing situation was a mechanical lift in a very small bathroom shown below. Since the doorway was not wide enough for her chair, she would get close to the door, pull herself onto the chair, transfer to the toilet, turn on the water,  transfer to the tub lift, and then lower herself into the tub. This expended an extreme amount of energy and time.  

For the new condo remodel, we researched and found a tub with a side that slides up and down (Elevance by Kohler). Disclaimer: I do not work for Kohler and do not represent that this is the best product for all applications, it’s just the tub we used for this project. My client now pulls her wheelchair up to the side of the tub, transfers, lifts the side (it has power assist), fills the tub and relaxes. 

We were not told by the sales representative that the tub had a hand-held faucet that could be deck mounted and integral with the tub so we added a hand-held as a separate fixture. The cubbie to the left of the tub was a parking space for a roll-out bin that could be moved to the roll-under sink area or anywhere the client needed access to her “stuff”. Also, above the countertop at the end of the tub, we mounted a TV for viewing pleasure while bathing.

If you are considering installing this tub, please be aware that it has three drains and will need extensive piping below a slab or frame floor as shown pre-installation below. The darker area is the cut-out of the existing slab and re-pour of concrete in the trenches (don’t forget to termite treat the soil). The tub requires power also and GFCI circuit.  

Other considerations are that the back of the tub has a curved detail and if using tile, the tile will need to be curve cut as shown. It’s the details that make a project professional. 

One of the most useful objects in a home is a handheld shower faucet. I am amazed how NOT having one of these makes me feel much less clean if I am showering in someone's home without one. A handheld shower faucet is not just helpful for personal cleaning, but it can help with cleaning out the shower itself and for pet cleaning. I am amazed that some of the handheld shower faucets do not have a cradle or place to park or their slide bars are not positioned correctly. Here are some "wrong" handheld examples: 

This slide bar is not easily reached and the handheld faucet is kept hung where it can be reached. I venture to say that this valve control is difficult to reach as well. 

The conversion handheld faucets that attach at an existing shower head often do not have a parking place and end up hanging or being hooked up too high to reach easily. The diverter button is often at the existing shower head. 

Here the handheld shower faucet is left hanging and when turned on may shower water all over the place. 

Below is a better arrangement for a handheld shower:

One end of the shower has a fixed head and a handheld. The handheld has two parking spaces: a fixed clamp on the side wall and a slide bar at the end. 

The control valve is located at the opposite end of the shower within easy reach to turn on the water prior to entering the shower. It is a diverter so that the water is sent either to the fixed head or to the handheld. A grab bar helps steady someone as they are adjusting the valve. 

This shower reduces the cost by eliminating a diverter valve and having only one valve. The handheld has two parking spaces: on the slide bar or on a fixed point up high. When on the fixed point the handheld acts as a traditional fixed shower head. 

If a fixed shower at a high point is not required, then one longer slide bar can be used with one valve. 

The family that lives here chose to have two handheld shower faucets - one at this end of the shower where the valves are, and

Today we focus on the Microwave Oven and here's my story and here is my Microwave set-up. I am sure there are hundreds of thousands of ranges with microwaves above them in America today. The location is a result of the need to "save space" in a small kitchen and combine a recirculating vent at the same time. Let me say...this DOES NOT WORK for ease of use and IS DANGEROUS.

Several years ago I had four surgeries on my shoulder within a two year time span. Due to complications (doctor error) and lack of insurance for repeated physical therapy, I am left with the inability to lift my left arm over shoulder height. Reaching up to the microwave to retrieve a hot dish with two hands is impossible for me. Never in my life would I have comprehended that I would not be able to perform that action. I am sure there are many individuals that have the same challenge as I do. 

Here is another example of a Microwave oven situation. I had a family contact me about designing a kitchen remodel for them that would meet the needs of both the parents and a physically challenged adult daughter. Here is the set up they had in the existing kitchen.

Notice the height of the Microwave and the hot plate. This was a kitchen "stuck in a corner" and is unacceptable to encourage inclusion of all family members. In the re-design of the kitchen, the Microwave was put in it's own niche at an appropriate height. It is adjacent to an island so hot food can be "landed" there.

The family commented that they were able to cook Thanksgiving dinner together that year with all participating and they were very grateful. 

In another kitchen we re-designed, The client placed her microwave at countertop height. That is an acceptable alternative if there is enough counter space. 

In 2008 my brother invited me to come to Japan (expenses paid no less - what an extremely generous brother I have). Well, before going he told me there would be some differences in certain personal tasks due to the culture...specifically "toileting". I had to do some research on this. 

What I discovered is that there are basically two scenarios when confronted with the need to eliminate: 1. a squatting fixture and 2. a bidet fixture. 

Here is an example of the squatting:

  And here's an example of the Bidet:

Notice the water stream which when seated does exactly what you want it to do...and yes, the water is usually warm. Some seats even have a heater and blow dry features. 

Here is a version in an American bathroom. It happens to be in the former Home Builder's Association of Metro Orlando (now known as the Greater Orlando Builder's Association) building and was installed at my insistence so people could try it out. 

That box on the wall is the remote control for the seat's features. 

If planning for a bidet seat or even for a future bidet seat - the one requirement I always include on the plans is a GFCI protected outlet within two feet of the toilet because the bidet seat requires power. 

The outlet can be tucked into the corner but is not in the electrician's usual realm of understanding so you'll need to do a lot of "hand holding" if you want to be prepared for a bidet seat. 

I fell in love with the bidet seat and said it was one of the highlights of my trip to Japan. Although I would love to have one now, the cost is prohibitive for me. My brother replaced all the toilet seats in his home in the U.S. with bidet seats!  "Bottom line" (pun intended) is that the Japanese have exceeded Americans in hygiene - we have a lot to learn.

I can't see...there's not enough light in this room...

These may be the laments one hears from those who are "aging-in-place" or you may be secretly thinking this to yourself as you are wondering why it seems so dark in here. FACT: as we age our vision changes and our ability to see in the dark decreases. Case in point is that many seniors don't like to drive at night because they don't see well (finger pointing to myself on this one).

Here are some ideas to help with this in your home:

Simple task lighting - floor lamps with the proper wattage light bulbs will bring the light to the area you need it.

For the kitchen one can use pendant lights over work areas like a sink. Here is a kitchen designed by Adventure in Building. Lights off - dark.

and now, here is the same sink area with the lights on - light.

Now - if you have one of those kitchens with the flourescent lights above a translucent drop in ceiling that looks like this:

You might want to consider a remodel like the one Adventure in Building designed for this family that opens up the ceiling and has a surface mounted fixture (with LED lighting above the crown mould perimeter trim).