Grand Teton National Park
Death Canyon Trail: 18.7 mile, 3,792ft elevation gain, https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/wyoming/death-canyon-trail--4
Hidden Falls via Jenny Lake Trail: 4.9 mile, 590ft elevation gain, https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/wyoming/hidden-falls-trail
This trip was a long time coming, and I couldnât have been more stoked. Aaron and Cole, my buddies from college who I had previously backpacked Banff and Jasper with, were flying out from New Jersey for a week long trip to the Tetons and Yellowstone.
The drive up to Jackson, WY was pretty chill with some great rolling hills to look at â we spent a lot of time playing our own version of Wordle with 6 letter words. I thought âbazaarâ was a fantastic word but they ended up getting it almost immediately. Sad.
Eventually we ended up in the Tetons and set up our first nightâs camp in a frontcountry spot right by Lower Slide Lake, a lake with remnants of a MASSIVE rockslide that happened in the early 1900s. We has some tuna mac nâ cheese and a couple beers before calling it an early night.
The next morning, we went to the ranger station to see what backcountry camping permits were still available. We ended up getting there about 30 mins after the station opened due to a slower start, which turned out to be hugely serendipitous â the group two people in front of us were there to cancel their reservation at Phelps Lake, and we were able to hop right onto that.
After a quick detour back to Jackson to get fishing gear and breakfast, we set off for Phelps Lake. The hike in was tranquil and offered some epic views of the lakes, and we quickly dropped our stuff off at the campsite to set off on a day-hike with lighter packs.
Our plan was to go up Death Canyon until we reached the pass, which we knew would be steep and covered in snow. We figured weâd turn around once it got too treacherous to go on.
Let me tell you, Death Canyon is steep. Luckily we had tons of tree coverage and were walking next to some beautiful rapids most of the time, but I also made the mistake of forgetting to bring my water filter. Luckily we were able to borrow one from another pair of hikers.
The views of the canyon were incredible, and it was great to be able to look back on Phelps Lake, which itself was huge. As we kept climbing up, we passed through some dense forest that was a little spooky to walk through. We were expecting to find a bear around every corner, so we stay closed and yelled out periodically so we wouldnât surprise any.
Our climb up the canyon rewarded us with a jaw-dropping clearing once we emerged from the trees. We were surrounded by ethereal peaks and traipsing through some of the lushest greens Iâd ever seen. Cole was hiking as fast as he could to try to get to the pass before having to turn back for sundown, but I was (selfishly) moving a bit slower so I could enjoy all the views.
Ultimately, we figured we wouldnât have enough time to make it to the pass and make it back down before sundown. With about a mile and a half still to go, we ended up turning around with a new goal: reach the rock jumping area back at Phelps Lake before nightfall.
The hike down was excellent and full of good conversation. We hustled all the way down and did end up making it back to camp with about 30 minutes of light to spare. We quickly changed into swimtrunks and pretty much ran to the rock, about a half mile from our campsite.
There was already a group there to offer us some choice words of encouragement, and the three of us took the icy plunge. It was so cold that it felt like my body was going into shock, but it was also the perfect feeling of a grand reset that we all needed after a long day of hiking.
We went back to camp, made a quick dinner, and all went straight to bed. I awoke to thunderstorms at about 7 am the next morning, but Aaron and Cole had awoken about an hour earlier to something large walking around our campsite. They thought it was a bear, but whoâs to say.
We packed up our soggy tents and started our hike back out to the car. On the way out, we talked with a couple at the Phelps Lake Overlook who said they saw a bear right by where around where we were camping. Maybe that bear theory actually held some weightâŚ
After this hike, we ended up driving up to Yellowstone for a few days and then came BACK to the Tetons because Yellowstone sucked, but Iâll save that for another post.
For our second trip, Cole and I dropped Aaron off to do some fishing while we did a more touristy hike. We chose to do Hidden Falls via Jenny Lake Trail, which had the option for you to take the ferry across Jenny Lake and skip the first couple miles of the hike. Cole and I, fiscally savvy and fit as hell, decided to skip the ferry and just enjoy the hike. We were pretty much the only people on the trail and got to enjoy it all to ourselves.
Then we got to the ferry drop-off point, and we joined a group of roughly 200 people for the last bit of the hike. It was nuts â Iâve never seen so many people on one trail. It certainly took a bit away from the experience, but the Hidden Falls were gorgeous and the Jenny Lake Overlook was pretty inspirational.
We quickly made our way down to meet up with Aaron at our pre-specified time, and the return hike was much better once we got back out past the ferry drop-off/pickup point. My only program was accidentally peeing on myself and nearly exposing myself to another hiker when I stopped to take a pee break on the trail. In my defense, Cole didnât do a very good of serving as a lookout.
We made it back to the car and picked up Aaron only 10 minutes after our pre-arranged meetup time, which Iâd say shows pretty good hiking estimation skills. After that, we piled into my filthy car and started our drive back to Salt Lake â Aaron and Cole had to get back for a redeye flight home that night.
The first time we got a good look at the Tetons was one of the most magical experiences of my life. I wish I could better describe the way that big mountains like that make me feel. Itâs almost like thereâs a magnetic pull in my bones towards them, like theyâre calling out to me, like thereâs a physical force drawing me closer.
Experiences like this make me so glad to live in Utah where I have such easy access to so many national parks. I know Iâll be back here one day, and hopefully next time it will be to climb the Grand Teton itself!