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@dry-valleys

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Golden hour on Lake Lucerne, Switzerland.
Photograph: Urs Flüeler
"The Wish" 03.09 (1998)
A female kingfisher puts on a colourful display. County Durham, UK. Photograph: Tony Raine

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Decided to venture a bit further afield on Bank Holiday and I’m definitely glad I did. All this on a single 6-mile walk! In and around Lyme Park.
May 2013 and (2,9) October 2015.
“To the majority of us, whose humdrum lives are imprisoned within congested city streets of unpreposessing aspect, a day spent in the moorish and unfruitful spaces of Lyme Park is not bleak at all, but spells freedom”. Lady Newton.
Bit harsh calling Manchester (visible from here!) humdrum but free I certainly was on my visit to Lyme Park, set in gorgeous parkland and the property of the National Trust since 1946.
Graham Harvey, one of my favourite nature writers, mentioned Lyme Park in his book Parkland as one of the few surviving examples of a traditional deer park. Features such as the intriguing cage (hunting lodge) (8,9), built in the 16th century for ladies to observe hunting (and to help catch poachers!), still exist as they did centuries ago.
Into the woods to see the Lantern (5,6), a Grade II listed building constructed around 1580, and up high on the moors from which can be seen the house- which I went inside for the first time on Sunday- and as far across as Manchester.
Sunday and (3,6) May 2013.
The Legh family owned Lyme, now a Grade I listed building, from 1398 until they gave it to the National Trust in 1946 “for the health, education and delight of the people” and I hope you’ll agree this was a successful work!
“It was the view painted on the drop curtain- the great house standing upon its high-buttressed walls, the bright parterre of the Italian garden outspread beneath; the white plume of the fountain in the centre for ever rising and falling, and the sound of it clear and distinct carried across the intervening valley on the still windless air”.
Phyllis Sandeman. (please see here and here for my outside photoshoots).
The history of Lyme Park dates back to the Battle of Crecy, 1346; after we defeated France in this battle, Sir Thomas Danvers was rewarded with these lands by Edward, the Black Prince, son of Edward III.
Although he died in 1376, before his father, and thus never became king, the Black Prince’s legacy lives on through his warring exploits and here. In 1398, Margaret, grandson of Sir Thomas, married Piers Legh, a Lancashire landowner, and the Legh dynasty was founded.
Leghs, like Sir Thomas Danyers, were always fighters; Piers fought at Azincourt (also against France, 69 years after Crecy!) and his heirs fought in the Wars of the Roses (they were Yorkists; please see here for more on those battles), at Flodden (against Scotland), and at sea (against Spain).
Things settled down somewhat and the first draft of the modern house was built in 1570, commissioned by Sir Piers Legh VII (himself a veteran of Scottish wars). Piers, though not afraid to fight, skilfully held his own throughout the battles between Catholics and Protestants which began after Henry VIII brought the Reformation to England in 1536; although remaining Catholic, the Leghs in his day and those of his heirs, kept on the right side of England’s Protestant rulers.
The next upheaval came in 1642, when Parliamentarians rebelled against King Charles I and started the British Civil Wars. Because Richard Legh was only eight years old at the time, he was not attacked by either side.
Although there was bloodshed throughout, the victorious Parliamentary leader Oliver Cromwell executing Charles and setting up his own dictatorship (1649-58), this did not scathe Lyme.
Richard Legh served as an MP under Oliver’s son and heir Richard Cromwell (1658-60) but, while covertly supporting Sir George Booth’s uprising against Richard Cromwell (George Booth was a fellow Cheshire aristocrat; please see his home at Dunham Massey) , he managed not to piss anyone off
After Richard Cromwell was overthrown in 1660, Richard Legh (who did not seem to have any solidarity with fellow Richards!) held office under Charles I’s son, Charles II, who became king in 1660. Oliver Cromwell’s corpse was dug up and hanged but Richard Cromwell, who kept his head down, lived in English country retirement until 1712.
Charles II reigned, mostly peacefully, for 25 years, but a crisis came when his Catholic brother, James II, became king in 1685. Although James could count on the staunch support of Peter Legh (1669-1744), he was unpopular for his faith, links to France, and the belief that he wanted to make himself an absolute monarch as his father, Charles I, had tried to.
James II was overthrown by his own daughter and son in law (not everyone valued family as much as the Leghs!) William and Mary, who became monarchs in 1689. James II was exiled to France and lived until 1701, but never wielded power in England. Lacking the canny instincts of his father, Richard Legh, Peter XII was twice imprisoned for being A Jacobite, loyal to the deposed James.
After getting out of prison, Peter XII gave up politics and lived quietly at Lyme as his father had done. The Jacobites, loyal to James II and his son, James Francis Edward Stuart, and grandson, Charles Edward Stuart, rebelled against the Hanoverian monarchs (heirs of William and Mary) in 1715 and 1745.
Peter Legh XII and his son, Peter Legh XIII (1708-92), though vaguely sympathetic, did not go out of their way to support the Jacobites and accepted that their plans failed. (I’m not sure when the Leghs lost their Catholic faith and became Anglicans, but unlike some other families they were not Catholics in the modern age). Giacomo Leoni, famed Venitian architecht, sculpted a new house of peace in the 1720s (see below).
The Leghs thus came to terms with the modern world and its industry, beginning in Peter Legh XIII’s very long life. They owned mines and much of the nearby town of Disley, so had sources of income as well as the farmland they owned.
Thomas Legh (1792-1857) great-nephew of Peter XIII, further diversified and welcomed the railway to Disley, a process which began in1852 and was done by 1864. As Disley became a suburb of Stockport and came in the orbit of Manchester, Thomas built a legacy for his nephew William John Legh (1828-98), a country gentleman who had other sources of wealth and thus held his own even as the aristocracy began to decline in a process charted by David Cannadine.
William John Legh, a Tory parliamentarianwho was called “a model country gentleman” by Benjamin Disraeli, was made 1st Baron Newton and presided over the heyday of Lyme, as did his son Thomas Woodhouse, 2nd Baron Newton (1857-1942).
Lyme was powered by a small army of servants; in 1910 there were 22 house servants and 102 gardeners and farm labourers. They toiled hard; Mary and Helen Rowlinson recalled that “it was like being in a big hotel at Christmas, father used to say. But it was more like a factory when it came down to brass tacks”.
Yet it wasn’t all work; the Leghs hosted balls at Christmas and New Year where they mixed in the entrance hall on equal terms with their tenants and employees, before leaving them to get on with the ball.
The paternalistic approach was, for a time, liked by employees who would be taken care of and knew their place. However, the forces Cannadine declared could not be held off forever and workers began to leave for factory jobs in nearby Stockport and Manchester. Although they would have to fend for themselves, often in direc conditions of which Robert Roberts wrote, many did prefer this to the even lower wages and quasi-feudalism of Lyme.
The trickle of servants turned to a flood after WW1 (in which Thomas Woodhouse’s son Richard William Davenport (1888-1960) fought)- 302 Disley men fought in the war, of whom 101 died) and WW2 (in which Richard William Davenport’s son Francis Michael (1919-84) fought) and here the old country life, which had been teetering for thirty or so years before 1914, collapsed.
Richard William Davenport gave Lyme to the National Trust in 1946 and lived to see his legacy safeguarded, as did his sister Phyllis, quoted above, who saw the life of her childhood disappear but also saw Lyme values still treasured at the time of her death in 1986, as they are today. (Please read Phyllis’ book Treasure on Earth about her aristocratic childhood at Lyme; it’s more interesting than my writing, anyway!)
Here are (1,2) the entrance hall, (3) drawing room, (4) the saloon- designed by Leoni, (5) the stairs , (6) the bright gallery, (7) long gallery- a full 120 feet long!, (8) the Edwardian bathroom, (9) state bedroom, (10) the yellow bedroom.
Although a wrench to Richard, his family’s loss was the nation’s gain and we know why (and taking pleasure in the National Trust carrying on their work), The Spectator magazine said in 1917, “every member of the family was rooted to the soil whence he had sprung. To the Leghs as they reveal themselves in their letters, Lyme was ‘dear Lyme, sweet Lyme’”
“Richard returned with joy and relief to the hills and moorlands of his northern home. Its peace and beauty never seemed more soothing than on his arrival after a long and weary journey”.
Lady Newton.
Lyme is the second highest National Trust garden after Castle Drogo, Devon, and its height, exposure, heavy rainfall and acidic soil make it very much unlike the soft south-eastern lowlands; as Joseph Addison, head gardener from 1907-22, remarked: “We came in March, up from Suffolk*, and it was three months later than Suffolk* and a very wet year, all slugs and rain”.
Although there was actually a heatwave when I went there in August 2022, the cool, damp weather that is at Lyme almost all the rest of the time had left its mark.
*Suffolk is a fine county; please see here. It is, as you can see, nothing whatsoever like Lyme, as Addison found out.
Lyme was held by the warrior aristocrats of the Danyers, then the Legh, family from 1346; please see here for my full history of the place. Here I am mainly focusing on the garden and moors.
The park was carved of the vast Forest of Lyme (from which Newcastle nder Lyme, which is very near where I live, Audlem, in the Cheshire/Shropshire/Wales borderlands, and Ashton under Lyne near what is now Manchester. Although little is left of the forest, much of Lyme is wooded; please see here and here for more on that.
The house was built around 1570, commissioned by Sir Peter Legh IX (there were so many Peters, Thomases and Richards that they all bore numbers as well as names) and the park, with its striking avenue of lime trees, was ordered by Richard Legh I of Lyme around 1670.
In the early 18th century, the house got a makeover inside and out as famed Venetian architecht Giacomo Leoni (1686-1746) worked here; the house is largely his embellishment of what was built in 1570.
The moors swept down to (2) the garden, largely the work of Lewis Wyatt (1777-1853). He worked for Thomas Legh II (1792-1857) and then Alfred Darbyshire came here in 1863 to work for William John, 1st Baron Newton (1828-98).
Wyatt and Darbyshire added to what was already here, such as (3) the avenue of lime trees already mentioned, (4) the house, (5) library, (6) chapel.
When the Protestant Reformation came to England in 1536, the Leghs, showing their Lancashire roots, stayed Catholic; Richard Legh I (1634-87) ordered a Protestant chapel built but at the time it was for show, and the family worshipped inthe old ways in secret; (7) is a sign of this.
Printed in 1487 by William Caxton, the Sarum Missal (at Lyme since 1503) is a Catholic prayer book which is now an artefact but wa svery much in day to day use until, at some point, the show became reality and the Leghs really did become Protestants.
The chapel was used throughout this time, but around 1900 the family moved its worship to St Mary, in the nearby town of Disley, which I’ve never been to but hope to see soon) and, though restored in 1950, the chapel is not as lush as it would have been in Lewis Wyatt’s day.
The book was lost until Peter Legh XII (1669-1744; he also employed Leoni) dates found it and restored it, this time as an heirloom.
We then move to (8) the ante room and (9) the dining room; Lewis Wyatt, a man of many talents, designed this as well as the garden.
Of the Grinling Gibbons carvings in the house, James Lees-Milne said “in the northern half of England there are no carvings, with the exception of those at Chatsworth by Gibbons’ pupil Samuel Watson, that can compare with those at Lyme in delicacy, finish and artistic refinement”.
After World War 1, in which son and heir Richard William Davenport (1888-1960) fought, as so many of his forefathers had done, it was no longer possible to have an aristocratic lifestyle; servants were unwilling to work here, rents from farmland were falling, and the city of Manchester overshadowed the old country life; Jack Leech, who had once worked on the estate, simply said “When we came back and saw all that at Lyme, we thought what’d we been fighting for?” (Probably not the same war aims as Richard, anyway!)
Richard this gave Lyme to the National Trust in 1946. He lived for another fourteen years, and must have been pleased to see what good care has always been taken by the National Trust, which only grew stronger in later years. As a sign of the times, the Sarum Missal, which had been in Manchester’s John Rylands Library since 1946 (a sumptous building; please see here) was brought back to Lyme in 1986.
I last came here in February 2018, during the cold spell of Beast from the East (I had planned to come back in March 2020, but the lockdown due to COVID 19 kept me away), so I knew better than to walk on such exposed moors (Kelly’s Directory of Cheshire, 1896, called it “bleak, moorish and unfruitful”) in a heatwave, but I had taken (1) in August 2016 (all others from August 2022) so can share all the seasons and colours of Lyme.
RUPERT GILES & BUFFY SUMMERS
Buffy the Vampire Slayer - 5x05

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BBC Merlin | Episode: The Witchfinder ↳ Requested by @groundbreakingdot872
Highways in Europe, 2026
Our Lady of Sorrows.
Christ she saw in torment languish, Saw the Son of her affection, Dying, desolate, alone.
Back to Holy Trinity, Ashford in the Water, well dressing; this is one of a three-part series from 2026 and you can read the others here and here.
Also please see here and here for 2025, my first time back after covid, here and here for 2019, here and here for 2018.
(1) The Saints by Gill Harris.
(2) St. Luke by Kate Furness.
(3) St. Peter by Hilary Bartlett.
(4) St. Nicholas by Sarah & John Winkworth-Smith.
(5) St. Valentine by Rosie Short.
(6,7) St. Columba by Ann Ashcroft and Karen Templeman.
(8) St. Mary, Mother of God, by Janet Kerr.
(9) St. Bede by Margaret Mellon.
(10) St. Joseph by Hannah Gregory-Campeau.

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Slight return to the well dressing at Holy Trinity, Ashford in the Water; this is one of a three-part series from May 2026; please see here and here.
Also here and here are the 2025 pictures, here and here 2019, here and here 2018.
On the theme of saints, here are:
(1,2) the Patron Saints of the United Kingdom (George, Andrew, David and Patrick) by Catherine Treves and Iris Holt.
(3) St. Fiacre by Jane Daniell.
(4) St. Cecilia by Barbara Baxter.
(5) St. Francis of Assisi by Jan Gibson & Charlotte Swift.
(6) St. Michael and All Angels by Linda Foster & Vivien Lee.
Slight return to Holy Trinity, Ashford in the Water, well dressing.
This is part of a three-part series from May 2026; please see here and here.
Please see here and here for 2025, here and here for 2019, here and here for 2018.