DISCOVERING LECCE: your own personal guide to survive in Lecce

Hello Erasmus student! Welcome to Italy! We are really glad you have chosen to come here in Lecce to study at the University of Salento. We hope you will enjoy living and studying in here.

This blog was created for an Erasmus-promoting project, which is part of an English language and translation class. The following posts will give you a comprehensive description of Lecce and the various hidden treasures of the city. We hope you find it helpful, especially if you want to know where to start from when visiting this beautiful city!

Here is some useful information:

This is the official website of our university. There, you will find everything you need, starting from your class schedule/timetable, but also news and updates from the University everyday.

The main departments of the University of Salento are Ateneo Codacci-Pisanelli, Buon Pastore, Sperimentale Tabacchi. Most of the classes take place there. Buon Pastore and library Studium 2000 are connected from the inside. There you will have the opportunity to meet your colleagues to both study and work together.

There are also several canteens. Just take a short walk after your classes and you will reach the one in Via Adriatica;  there is another canteen in Via Lombardia, right near the station. Student dorms are beside these canteens, too.

The Science and Technology Department - the Ecotekne Campus - is the only one just outside the city. It is easy to reach by bus, route number 27. Furthermore, another cateen is in here.

Don’t worry about distances! You can reach everything on foot, or get cross town by the public bus transportation - called SGM - with multiples routes every hour, running from from 7 A.M. to 8 P.M.

THE ART-PAPIER-MACHE STREET

Lecce is very famous for the papier-mâché art (cartapesta in Italian), which is way more than just a souvenir. This particular genre of art first become popular in Apulia in the 17th century, when glue and paper offered cheap raw materials for religious artists who couldn’t afford expensive wood or marble. Wandering around Lecce, it is highly common to chance upon several papier-mâché workshops showing their ready-to-sell puppets and statues, or working on upcoming pieces of art. Only a few minutes walk from Piazza Sant’Oronzo, the Castle of Charles V is home to Lecce's papier-mâché museum (Museo della Cartapesta).

PIZZICA

Pizzica is a popular folk dance, originally from the Salento area and nowadays popular in the rest of Apulia too. It is traditionally a couple dance played during family reunions and a great variety of festivals, especially in summertime. The 'Notte della taranta' is one of the most well known music festivals and it takes place in different villages of Salento during the month of August. Taranta is a word strictly connected to the tarantism phenomenon, a form of hysteria that at the beginning of the Middle Ages had been associated with tarantula bites: victims seemingly were cured by frenzied dancing, which soon became the ritual cure to their weird syndrome. This is how this particular dance was born.

SAGRE

A sagra (festival in English) is an Italian festival that celebrates local food. Most of them are dedicated to some common ingredients and local delicacies but also to beverage products, not to mention the variety of sagre dedicated to Saint Patrons. With numerous food stands representing the best culinary tradition of Italy, you'll be spoiled for choice!

Piazza del Duomo is not only one of the most beautiful squares of the city, but it is also where Lecce's Cathedral is located. Unlike Piazza Sant'Oronzo - with lots of shops and cafes - this square definitely has a more intimate feel. Plus, it is enclosed by stunningly beautiful buildings like the bishop's residence and seminary.

On the southeast corner of the Piazza is the Cathedral of Maria Santissima Assunta. It is accessible through two entrances, the main one is on the north side of the church and the other one is on the west side. Its bell tower is one of the highest in Europe!

The Cathedral was originally built in 1144, then renovated in 1230 and it was rebuilt in the XVII century by architect Giuseppe Zimbalo in the more decorative baroque style that has come to be the symbol of Lecce. The main northern façade boasts a massive bronze portal. Stepping onto the square you will be amazed by the sight of the side of the Cathedral, which is lavishly decorated with a series of artfully chiselled statues. It is considered a masterpiece of Baroque art. Flanking the portal are two massive columns, outside of which are niches with statues of Saint Giusto (on the right) and Saint Fortunato (on the left). Above the portal is a balustrade and in the centre of it - within a highly decorated arch - a statue of Saint Oronzo. As for the interior, it has a Latin cross plan with two aisles and a nave, separated by columns and semi-columns. The central nave and the transept are covered by a wooden coffered ceiling. The Cathedral harbours several valuable paintings and altars with Solomonic columns, decorated with plant and animal motifs.

If you can, go and see the Duomo lit up at night!

Piazza Sant'Oronzo is a beautiful oval-shaped square. It is the main square of Lecce, the place where people used to meet.

At the centre of the square - on the pavement - is a big mosaic representing the emblem of the Baroque city: a female wolf under a holm oak tree. The Leccesi consider it bad luck to step on the so-called “Lupa”. Tradition states that if you step on the "Mosaico della Lupa" whilst you are at university, then you will never be able to graduate!

In the Piazza you can see the Saint'Oronzo's statue - the patron Saint of the city - standing on the top of a 29-meter-high column; the saint is portrayed as if he is delivering his blessing to everyone. Brindisi gave it to Lecce in 1660, as a thank you to Sant'Oronzo for saving the city from the plague.

Mounted on the front wall of the Banco di Napoli building is an unusual 20-meter-high bronze clock: the so-called the Orologio Delle Meraviglie. Commissioned by the Banco di Napoli in 1955, it was created by sculptor Francesco Barbieri. It is an eye-shaped clock - its face represents the iris - that may not look heavy, but it actually weighs 20 tons!

Under the gaze of Saint Oronzo's statue is Lecce's Roman Amphitheatre. It was built in the II century A.D. to entertain about 25,000 viewers. It was the venue for combats between gladiators and venations, cruel fights between humans and animals. The monument was completely buried in the rubble and its existence was unknown until 1901. Today, only a quarter of the amphitheatre is visible, the rest of it could only be brought to light by demolishing the Santa Maria delle Grazie church. The Amphitheatre is the most relevant archeological evidence of the Roman period in Salento.

Walking around Lecce is an endearing experience, especially due to its particular atmosphere, both ancient and beautiful. An intricate yet stunning baroque style characterizes the many churches and monuments distributed around and inside Lecce, giving them a distinctive look that contributes to elevate the city’s artistic value. We will now focus on some of them.

BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE

The Basilica is the most significant example of Lecce's Baroque, renowned for its amazing architecture and richly decorated façade. Built by the count of Lecce Gualtieri VI of Brienne in 1353, it was initially a monastery. Its stunning well-structured front is the result of interventions that lasted a century, begun in 1548 and completed more than 150 years later. The lower order still keeps a typical XVI century and renaissance style, while in the XVII century’s upper order the Baroque explodes. The façade is punctuated by six smooth columns supporting an entablature decorated with ornately carved animals, grotesque figures and flora. Its intricate sculptures and a large rose window never fail to leave visitors speechless. Between the two orders there is the church inscription “TEMPLUM HOC DEO CRUCIS VEXILLO DICATUM” (To God and to the Cross Banner). Above, runs a majestic stony balustrade and on the top of it, thirteen putti. The interior had originally a nave and four aisles, two of which were turned into side chapels. The central nave has a wooden coffered ceiling, whereas the aisles have vaulted ceilings and seven chapels on each side.

CHIESA DI SANT’IRENE DEI TEATINI

The church was built during the 17th century, dedicated to Saint Irene - former patron Saint of Lecce until 1656, when a saintly bishop from Lecce became the new patron Saint: Sant'Oronzo. Architecture-wise, the interior has a Latin cross plan with a single nave, which is open at the sides by six connected chapels - three on either side - characterized by oval domes. The façade consists of a double order system, punctuated by overlapping pilasters connected by festoons. Its columns - in the upper order - and pilasters - in the lower one, are interspersed by a serie of empty niches and cartouches. In the centre of the façade are located the portal - framed by two Corinthians columns on the sides - and a statue of Saint Irene - on the top - and a large window directly above the former, bringing light to the central nave. Above the stringcourse frame stands the civic emblem of Lecce. A tympanum crowns the façade, bearing the insignia of the order of the Teatini. A Latin dedication to the patron is engraved on the entablature and recites “IRENE VIRGINI ET MARTIRI” (Irene virgin and martyr). The church interior is adorned with numerous altars and decorated by beautiful frescos, the most notable painting inside is the Lapidation of St. Stephen, by Antonio Verrio.

CHIESA DI SAN MATTEO

The Church was built in the second half of the XVII century and is located in close proxinity to Porta San Biagio. Its unique pseudo-elliptic plan generates a peculiar façade, alternating convex surfaces -in the lower order-and concave – in the upper one- with scales and ashlar decorations. Once entered the church, a refined wooden choir with a multilinear parapet juts out over the portal. It is decorated with ornamental designs and elements in relief - like shells, palmette and festoons - and supports the precious carved wooden casing coated in gold of a three aisles organ. The church interior - with spiral columns and pilasters - hosts many altars in the Baroque style, along with twelve beautiful statues of the Apostles and a late gothic fresco. 

CHIESA DI SANTA CHIARA

It is one of the most famous - and beautiful - churches in Lecce. Located in the historic center of the city, the church was rebuilt between 1687 and 1691, in place of a previous XV century structure. The sisters of Santa Chiara’s order - the Order of Clarisse – used to live in the close monastery and to attend religious services in this splendid baroque church. Its stunning façade is slightly convex and without apex. As for the interior, the octagonal nave is open at the sides by six chapels, hosting an equal number of baroque altars, each supporting wooden statues representing various Saints. A precious false ceiling of the XVIII century made in papier-mâché dominates the ample nave. 

BASILICA SAN GIOVANNI BATTISTA AL ROSARIO

The basilica was built for the Dominicans friars between 1691 and 1728. Out of all the churches in Lecce, this is the only one built out of stone native to the area (the so-called “pietra leccese). It is one of the best examples of the amazing Lecce’s Baroque. At the center of the façade, two massive spiral columns with richly decorated capitals frame a large portal surmounted by the symbol of the Dominican Order and a statue of Saint Domenico di Guzman. Two niches are located on the sides, each containing the stone statues of San Giovanni Battista and San Francesco. On the upper level, a large window aligns with the central portal and a wide stone balcony sustains the statue of the Virgin and various other Saints. The basilica has a Greek-cross plan, with several altars and pillars distributed around the perimeter of the interior. The base of every pillar was carved with the coat of arms of the noble families from Lecce that contributed to the building of the church. 

Among the many monuments built under the reign of Charles V in the XVI century, are the city gates, also called “Portas”. In the past, the Portas represented the borders of Lecce. Initially built to fortify and protect the old walled Lecce, they remained an integral part of a now bigger and more modern city.  One of the gates, the “San Martino” Porta - which delimited the northern part of Lecce - was demolished in 1800 and completely knocked down. The three remaining city gates are Porta Napoli, Porta Rudiae and Porta San Biagio, which are still intact and in good condition. They represent now very useful landmarks for navigating the city and its historical centre.

PORTA NAPOLI

The main gate is Porta Napoli, built in 1548 in honour of Charles V. It stands on the site of the ancient Porta San Giusto and used to be the main entrance of the city. Built to celebrate a state visit from Charles V, it is a 20 meters-high gate. A pair of Corinthian columns, a pediment with the coat of arms of the House of Habsburg in it - representing a double-headed eagle - and a Latin inscription on the architrave celebrating the deeds of the Emperor beautifully decorate the façade of the gate.

PORTA RUDIAE

Further south is the oldest of all gates: Porta Rudiae. Built on the ruins of an older gate, it was rebuilt in 1703. The gate is topped by statues of saints: the highest one is a statue of Saint Oronzo, the saint patron of Lecce. He's portrayed as if he were delivering his blessing to everyone who passes by. On its sides are the statues of Saint Irene and Saint Domenico. Just under the statue of the Saint patron are the busts of the city founders and a Latin epigraph about the history of Lecce.

PORTA SAN BIAGIO 

The third gate is Porta San Biagio. Built in 1774, the Porta is dedicated to Saint Biagio. A statue of the Saint himself is, in fact, on top of the gate. On the façade are two coats of arms of Lecce, sculpted in great detail. In the past, the Porta used to lead to a park, where the inhabitants of Lecce used to spend most of their time.

OBELISCO

The Obelisk. It’s a beautiful pillar built in 1882 in honour of king Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies. Situated just outside the arch of Porta Napoli, the monument is carved in “pietra leccese”, and beautifully decorated with a series of wonderful bas-relief friezes, gradually tapers as it rises and terminates in a pyramid. On the pedestal is the symbol of the old “Terra d’Otranto”, representing a dolphin biting a half-moon.

PASTICCIOTTO

Puff pastry stuffed with cream - custard, to be precise - which is often eaten for breakfast. 

RUSTICO LECCESE

Puff pastry stuffed with mozzarella cheese, tomato and béchamel. It’s best when still warm and melty. 

CAFFÈ LECCESE

Definitely not your regular coffee. Its uniqueness is its mix: an espresso with almond milk - more like a syrup - and ice cubes. Even not coffee drinkers might come to like it. 

FRISA

A hard bread that needs to be kept soaking in water - up to two minutes - usually topped with extravirgin oil, tomatoes, oregano and a pinch of salt.

CICERI E TRIA

 It’s a first course that consists of a pasta dish, prepared with pasta - partially fried - called tria in the Salento dialect, and chickpeas as primary ingredients, called ciceri. 

PITTULE

Fried dough. It’s an easy dish, and as all easy dishes are difficult to get right: in order to be edible, they must be perfect in water and flour balance and yeast quantity.