CAN WE TALK ABOUT CLOTHES?

In 2010 the landscape of streetwear, menswear and overall men's clothing was just on the up and up. In 2010 we just started to see a glimpse of men everywhere starting to take interest in their clothing. What they  choose to put on their bodies started to become a representation of their personal expression. and brands being created on the daily. Right around this time Ian Elderman must've seen the profit in the men's clothing world and wanted to actualize it, thus How to Make it In America was born.

How To Make It In America was a show about an ethnically diverse group of friends trying to make in the New York City let alone America through their authenticity. Whether it be through their well connected friends or working odd jobs, with glimpses of success and mostly failure the show shined with it’s one of a kind scope on a rising subculture. Now the shows best friends Ben Epstein and Cam Calderon from Brooklyn trying to make it into the fashion world with a their line “Crisp” which featured denim jeans, graphic tees and hoodies. In 2010 selvedge denim was huge, from the blog to the streets everyone had or wanted a pair. Selvedge denim as we know became huge due to it’s character and wear. The thought of buying 200$ denim that were in it’s rawest form that formed to your body over the course of time sparked interest in people. Your jeans were an extension of yourself in a way or in cheesy terms your ‘fades”. It was a subculture that was on the rise, and making a tv that showcased this seemed like a smart idea. 

In many ways HTMIIA at a surface level went over people's heads. The audience that were growing with the men's clothing subculture enjoyed it’s subliminal references and co-signs. From depicting Supreme way before Odd Future and in the most authentic way (the only character to wear Supreme on the show was a crazy New York Skater with a “fuck you” appeal) to Japanese selvedge denim, mentions of street style; the show knew who was going to tune in every week. It had Pharrell talking about BBC to John Varvatos dinner parties, from the brands the characters were wearing.  The show also followed the men's clothing subcultures transition from streetwear into the emergence of Haberdash ,cut and sew, and the downtown cool aesthetic through Crisps rival brand The New York Neanderthals. 

The show had a real depiction of how living in New York City actual is. Character were on their “grind” everyday whether that be from selling weed, to working odd jobs to stay afloat, their pursuit for a better life came off as honest due their experiences. The places they lived were true, rugged, honest, from living with your grandmother to trying to afford rent in Brooklyn it came off as charming. It wasn’t like another HBO Original “Girls” where the characters never mention anything about affording rent for their somehow unrealistic apartments with their not so promising and fruitful jobs. 

Now the show got cancelled in 2011 right before the #menswear wave of the internet and all over emerged. It makes you think, if you look back around that time #menswear was just starting to blossom. Everyone seemed to want a piece of this #menswear phenomenons. In 2012 #menswear was marketing force, companies were hiring bloggers to do a magnitude of things. Bloggers were hired for brand collaborations,marketing campaigns, even running a extension of media outlets *cough* Four Pins *cough*. It seemed like men's clothing was growing into something bigger and broader with everything we read. 

It makes you think if HTMIIA would of came out two years later would it of been more successful, the answer is yes it would of. Its understanding of a booming subculture right as it was gaining momentum should be a big enough indicator in itself. The Tumblr culture of that time would of eaten a show like this up. It almost seemed like it would of been a dream come true seeing your favorite brand actualized and on not a dashboard for once is refreshing.Around the time the show could of done so much with its interest in men's clothing culture. HTMIIA even had a pop shop within their series and even now in 2016 we are seeing the biggest names in fashion and music using that same marketing today. 

Wouldn’t of been awesome to see an episode of Ben and Cam taking their brand Crisp to a Capsule show and somehow dropping ball or even them being featured/written about in a style magazine as great up and comers. If the show would of came out two years later perhaps the reception would of been greater due to the #menswear market at the time, it was extremely profitable and everyone wanted to profit off of it while they could. Yes HTMIIA was cheesy at times and I’m not saying if it would of released in 2012 it wouldn’t of gotten cancelled. It would of reached that “larger audience” HBO wanted it too because the people getting involved with the culture HTMIIA was emulating in 2010 was much broader in 2012. I’m saying HTMIIA was a tad bit before it’s time and it would of been more likely to succeed if it did come out two years later due what was happening within the men's clothing culture. HTMIIA was letting us in on subculture that was going to be grander than people perceived and for that we thank them.   

Now it may not be the right time to bust out anoraks as you main layer of warmth, but spring will be here before you know it so just be patience. Nanamica has to be on of my personal favorites from the Rising Sun and this Wind Anorak is proof why. This thing is made out of 100% polyester and ultra lightweight, so it’s not winter proof so don’t get your hopes up. This details much like most products I write about are what make this piece for me. Here we have wide set drawstrings on the hood with a bottom drawstrings to match, to top it off we have a subtle fishtail hem for all you subtle flex action. The thing about this jacket is you can layer in up or simply just wear on it’s own when the weather permits. 2016 bless me with a great anoraks i’m sick of writing about all this dope ones i’ll never have. 

Neighborhood dropped their latest lookbook, and I’ll say I’m quite the fan. Neighborhood this time around delves into mostly a denim on denim aesthetic for this collection, with a balance of menswear staples and streetwear classics. Most of pieces from the denim addition and looks are monochromatic in blue hues, from Chore jackets, vests and even denim aprons. The craftsmanship seen on the denim part of the collection has to be an overall high point of the collection for me. From the sewed on prints, washes, cuts and fabric, Neighborhood wasn’t holding back on the denim inspired feel on the collection (that belted vest isn’t for the faint of heart). That’s only the first part of the collection, the lookbook then goes into lighter material looks inspired by painters. We’re seeing Neighborhoods take on classic silhouettes, with three pieces suits, patchwork denim jackets and pants, along with striped sweaters, and my favorite pieces which is the relaxed baseball jersey. Neighborhood then flips the lookbook on it’s head by having a grip of streetwear influences looks. We have insurgence of camo everything; camo shorts, button ups, blazers and field jackets. They blend the camo with utilitarian outerwear such as jackets and vests for a absolute complete and full collection. Neighborhoods ability to create and jump from loud streetwear, to utilitarian workwear but to traditional menswear says volumes not only for this collection but for their brand.

I’m not quite sure why I don’t write about pants, trousers, joggers, bottoms etc that much. It’s not because I don’t like to write about them, it’s just hard to find ones that are interesting enough to write about. I’ve been on the hunt for another pair of bottoms to help switch up my overall pant game. Like most men jeans are an everyday staple or if you’re still suck in 2013 then Joggers are your bottoms of choice. These Folk Drawscord Trousers are the change of pace I need. These Drawstring Trousers are pretty much everything I’ve been searching for. The hold the appeal of your average chino or trouser but add in the drawstrings and tapered cuff gives these trousers the added edge. The silhouette is relaxed giving these pants a luxè cozy boy feel. 100% cotton and in this deep navy color, pair these with faded crewneck and some white sneakers, or you can even dress it up with a madrian button up. The thing that elevates these pants above most trousers or joggers is it’s subtle versatility to be paired with just about anything.

Wings and Horns has been around for a minute, and it’s a staple brand within the menswear community for a multitude of reasons . It’s likely you’re favorite menswear shop in town has Wings + Horns in their stocklist, and if they don’t it shouldn’t be considered your favorite shop. Back to the task at hand, Wings + Horns dropped their latest lookbook and it embodies everything “Subtle Flex”. Subtle Flex is basically understated pieces that are more intricate than they seem to be. This collection features W+Hs created pieces with more of a modern military aesthetic, I.E new takes on  Bomber, Parka, Knits, Topcoats. The collection has a focus on Sherpa, from satin bonded Sherpa Parka, the sherpa wool bombers,etc (which were also made in Japan). The color palette is a darker more muted one, with colors such as black, grey, olive dominating the collection. The Military aesthetic is best suited to me within the pants in this collection. Wings + Horns understated and modern take on Cargos is some of the best i’ve seen in some time, that fit and silhouette are going to be hard to beat. Overall this collection features revamped classic staples done in refreshly new materials (Peruvian yarn) and cuts all done within a solid color palette. These are pieces that you should aspire to own and have for the rest of your life. 

Adidas has been my brand of the year two years in a row and that’s for more than good reason. Towards the tail end of 2015 Adidas dropped their latest runner which was the amazing NMD. Adidas has been on a roll with their latest releases of running sneakers, the Ultra Boost swiped through 2015 and made it into just about everyone's closets and hearts. This NMD Primeknit which Adidas labels as the NMD_R1, Adidas brings to what the NMD_R1 what they bring to many of their latest sneakers and that is a blending comfort, functionality with style and a one of a kind aesthetic. The NMD_R1 is constructed with a primeknit upper with overlaying structural welded tape, on top of the lego brick EVA Midsole on top of the phenomenal Boost Sole. This all makes for one of the best looking streamline runners of the year and it’s only January, the Adidas NMD is set to release on Jan 30th. 

Side-Note: I’m feeling these more than the Ultra Boost tbh

Anoraks, Popovers, Pullover jackets, you name any garment that’s a pullover other than your classic hoodie or sweater and I’m all about it. ts (s) is one of the most innovative brands out of Japan right now. In the sea of Japanese brands ts (s) still sets themselves apart  with their use of materials, fabrics and most of all the construction and functionality their products hold. Designer Takuji Suzuki approach to design is what pushes his brand above many other Japanese brands. It’s all based on functionality, unique fabrics, and top notch construction. This Pullover Field Jacket is a prime example and for many good reasons. This jacket of course has substantial pockets for the field jacket effect but what this jacket does well is letting the little details speak for themselves. The little details I’m speaking of is the use of corduroy on the collar and sleeves, the center drawstrings, along with the subtle horizontal tonal lines giving the jacket that much more dimension and pop. This could be a killer layering pieces, throw this under a topcoat or a parka and you’ll be turning heads anywhere you go. 

As we all know Japan does American style better than Americans, I.E. Ivy Style, Americano, and even streetwear and Cav Empt is a good example. Cav Empt latest drop showcases themes we’ve seen from the brand before, offbeat graphics, military inspired menswear, muted color palettes. We have what we could expect from C.E. graphic crewnecks, military jackets, sweatpants. Cav Empt has been making waves with menswear nerds and streetwear aficionados alike, they have a good balance of statement pieces much like the graphic crews shown, and simple wardrobe staples (Parka, shirt jacket) all of this combined with their offbeat aesthetic makes for a great brand putting out great and consistent product. My favorite items out of this drop have to be the graphic shirt jacket along with the washed denim button up. They happen to be my favorite pieces because they’re subtle layering pieces that are the literal epitome of what Cav Empt does the best; menswear staples done with a subtle flair. Cav Empt is one of the only cool guy brands left that Kylie Jenner hasn’t ruined yet so get it before she kills Cav Empt like she did Gosha and Palace. 

My black Mayfly Woven have to be hands down my favorite sneaker of all time, and I’m going to go against popular belief and say they are literally more comfortable than Flyknits. I ran my my Mayflys in the ground and I’m not willing to pay what resellers want so I’ve been coping with the fact that I may never get a pair of mayfly in pristine condition ever again, but those days are over. Nike is releasing the Mayfly wovens again but this time not in a limited run of four colors, they are coming with nine new colorways. The Mayfly have a certain edge and one of a kind silhouette to them. the Mayflys are on the edge of being ugly and great all at the same time. It’s hard to find any other sneaker silhouette that comes close to the one Nike created with this one. They have leathers insoles, and woven suede body, all on top of a Phylite sole. This time around Nike brings up a couple vibrant colorways (Pink, Turquoise, Yellow) but brings back a few colorways that were in the initial drop (black, beige, navy). The new colorways that happen to be the best ones of the nine are the Off-White, Triple Black, and Dark Grey and it’s going to be hard decide which ones I want out of the three when drop arrives. Nike is set to release the revamped Mayfly Wovens late spring so keep your heads up. 

I’m not one for colored sneakers, if it doesn’t come in an earth tone than I’m mostly not about it. These Commonwealth Hoffman by Clae have changed my mind. The details on this sneaker are what do it for me, the long haired suede, a subtle veg leather heel, all sitting on top of the EVA Outsole. The brands direction with this sneaker was to bring “east coast aesthetic with west coast roots”. It’s clean and understated which gives the sneaker a lot of versatility, it can be a statement piece or a complementary factor in just about anyones outfit. They have a great runner silhouette that is reminiscent to New Balance, but a much more elevated New Balance due to the fabric at use. If it makes you feel any cooler there only 350 pairs made, so it’s pretty exclusive. 

Let me start with saying last year I shared that in my opinion Adidas was the brand of the year, and for good reason. I spoke about how their renaissance has started to take stride last year. First with scooping three of Nike's lead designers, next with giving outside brands an outlet for creative exposure through collaboration, and last but not least signing Kanye and many other to create and elevate the brand through their own lense. What I didn’t know was what I was touching on just happened to be the beginning of something. 

Adidas has been everywhere this year and no one can deny that, it’s be getting so big moms are trying to get credit for rocking adidas back in the day. Last year we saw the resurgence of adidas classic sneaker, The Stan Smith. This year they’ve done it again with the Superstar, or as many know them as “Shelltoes”. The Superstar was on everyone's feet this year, from Private School girls,Pharrell. editors to stylists, they were EVERYWHERE. Adidas did it again but re-releasing a classic sneaker that everyone use to love and wanted to love again. The Superstar had such a big year this year they are no longer known to anyone anymore simply as “Shelltoes” they are now and will forever be Superstars. It didn’t just stop there either, Adidas logo gear was huge. People rocking logo jackets, leggings, t-shirts, people wanted you to know they co-signed adidas to the highest degree

Last year I also spoke about Adidas step towards more sleek and modern designs with their sneakers especially with their release of the Tubular and Pure Boost. These designs I said only complimented where the brand was heading, and I couldn’t of came more correct. 2015 was the year Adidas released The Ultra Boost which they labeled as the “Greatest Running Shoe Ever”. It has primeknit upper with a boost sole technology. The Ultra Boost showcased a slim running shoe silhouette with a comfort never felt in a running shoe before. This shoe had the perfect blend of lifestyle and performance which was a main reason why it bleed into sneakerheads and gym junkies closets across the globe. Of course after Kanye was spotted wearing the all white pair, they sold out instantly and went on to sell out of every restock that came after. The Ultra Boost mimics what happened with the Flyknit Trainer a few years back. It’s not to extreme to say The Ultra Boost is Adidas version of the Flyknit and it’s a new age iteration of it. Adidas didn’t just make the “greatest running shoe ever” it safe to say they made the greatest lifestyle shoe ever.

2015 is the year that Adidas and Kanye West partnership blossomed right before the whole world's eyes and no one could escape it. Kanye West's Yeezy Season 1 with Adidas showed during New York Fashion Week  and everyone had something to say about it. This isn’t the first time Adidas has done high fashion, they’ve collaborated with Raf and Jeremy Scott and others but none held the magnitude that Kanye's did. Whether you liked it or not Yeezy Season finally arrived, which led fuccbois everywhere going and getting strug Yeezy Gear, to everyone camping out for any one of the Yeezy Boost drops. The fashion world had their opinions *cough* Cathy Horyn *cough* but the hype nor the stans nor the people could be silenced. The Yeezy Boost took over social media creating a hype monster that grew bigger, harder, and more desireable as the year went on. When the collection finally dropped Kanye being Kanye it sold out everywhere. Kanye West is a huge influential force within menswear,  and has created an aesthetic everyone tries to adopt,  brands become bigger just by his co-sign for christ sake. 2015 saw Adidas elevate Kanye's force within fashion to an undeniable level, Kanye needed Adidas and Adidas needed Kanye. 

Along with a numerous amounts of collaborations we saw yet another fantastic one from Palace. Palace much like Adidas had a big come up this year, especially due to the popularity of the english soccer-hooligan-track-suit aesthetic. Adidas and Palace collaborated twice and the collaboration pulled something more out of Palace in terms of clothings.  We saw a departure from graphic tees with their iconic triangle, to full on collections with an expansive variety and diversity shown in their items (I.E that insane Tie Dye Hoodie and Goalie Jersey). Adidas teaming up with Palace the cool-guy skate brand from England put Adidas in with the cool kids and Palace in with the mainstream.

Adidas has and will never not be a cultural wave, and this year is a prime example of that. Much like in the 80s when we saw Run DMC,the Beastie Boys, and pretty much anyone involved in hip hop in adidas we should’ve known what we were getting. Adidas isn’t just another clothing brand, they snapshot a point in time through their clothing and through their connection with culture that has been unmatched. Just like as we look back on Adidas impact in the 80s with we definitely look back in 20 years at this time and remember what Adidas did and where we fit into their impact. Rappers aren’t just wearing Adidas clothing anymore their designing them. 

ADL has been around for a while now, still fresh in the game but not all that fresh. The reception Teddy Santis and the brand ADL has been massive, and for good measure. ADL continues to push the boundaries of menswear by adapting menswear customs into streetwear norms. The fit and one of a kind silhouettes find a home and resonate among anyone interested mens clothing. This time around we see Teddy Santis use colors he is comfortable with and have seen use before, i.e. Maroons, Creams, Tans, Navy, and of course black and white. The “35th St.” collection showcases Teddy's growth as a designer by choosing to expand past his old “mature cozy boy aesthetic”. Of course with any ADL collection we have tons of items that are used best when layering through the use of size zippers and curved hems. The collection use of heavier fabrics is seen with the emergence of thicker and heavier items ( I.E Sherpa everything). Also we have a leather jackets, half zip sweaters, ribbed turtlenecks, top coats, vests. My favorite piece would have to be the popover, with concealed buttons and a upward collar. It displays what Teddy Santis and ADL are best at, and that simply is recreating a classic piece into the modern world, climate, and direction of menswear. ADL is a force and what keeps their hype, organic, and true is that this is quality clothings and collections, and it’s a refreshing take on menswear and showcases where it’s heading. 

2015 has been a great year for style and a great year for the one and only Kanye West. From his first fashion show and brand to the release of his first sneaker from Adidas, Ye has had an impactful year within style; from completely influencing and creating his own aesthetic with the arrival of Yeezy Season, to having sneakerheads and pretty much everyone try to get a hand on his signature sneaker. Kanye has always had a voice within fashion, and people who enjoy men's fashion or style know this. He is looked at like a style god, but at what point are we going to stop jocking him and do our own thing. Of course Kanye stans everywhere go out and buy anything he’s wearing, i.e. Flyknit Trainers, Ultra Boots, Visvims. But no one would of thought anyone would of had the guts to go out and buy one of his favorite items this year, the Jungle Tactical Boot.

I kid you not, the day after literally the day AFTER the video of “Only One” dropped I saw a guy out with exact outfit Kanye wore in the video. Trust me those boots did not look anywhere as steezy as they did on Kanye. After the music video dropped, Kanye was seen sporting this boots everywhere. The trend of course picked up like most things Ye decides to wear but I didn’t think his influence would have the same effect with a pair of Military Boots. As the year went by I saw more and more guys out in the streets with the Jungle Tactical Boots. Now the Jungle Tactical Boots are a heritage item used for Jungle Warfare for usually hot, wet and humid climates. It was based on the idea that no boot could possibly be without getting wet and needed proper ventilation for that reason especially swamp and or jungle environments. But these guys couldn’t possibly give two fucks about that. The jungle boot is everywhere and I don’t think it needs to be.

Now don’t get me wrong there is guys out there that can pull it off and make it look authentic. What separates them from the others these slim percentage of guys are wearing it in a way, manor, that is original to their own personal style. The guys that are pulling them off in the right way are pairing the boots with items that are already in their wardrobe or already compliment their personal aesthetic. The rest of these guys are literally pairing strug Yeezy gear or gear inspired by the Yeezy seasons and it couldn’t look more obviously what look they're going for. It hits as trendy, it hits as inauthentic. Why it works on Kanye or even Shia is that it seems natural for them. That is do to their own personal style. If these guys have to guts to completely rip Ye they should have the guts to adventure style risks on their own. Take the influence and apply within themselves. Take the influence of any trend for that matter and project into something more authentic, more imbedded in your own personal style, you can’t jock Kanye's style for the rest of your lives now. That’s why anyone who seems to have great personal style resonates with people, because they are doing and being complete themselves with the items they choose to where and it is seen. Take that inspiration and apply to yourself don’t just try to emulate the looks, inspire to have your own. 

The moral of the rant is be yourself, don’t latch onto trends that came from an original and organic place to try to display it as your own. Go out and find your own aesthetic, create your own look for people to jock, create your own trend, and most of all don’t be afraid to make a style risk on your own and before Kanye does it. 

(this pretty much a rant about how I hate seeing Kanye clones everywhere, no shade I love Kanye just as much as they do) 

Yesterday I was walking the Midtown Detroit area in which many would consider is having quite the renaissance when I past a brand new WILL LEATHER GOODS. Will Leather Goods is a lifestyle brand based in Eugene Oregon, who specialize in crafted leather goods. They have stores location in Oregon, California, and New York. The building was huge; it spread two stories high with beautiful windows to match, a coffee shop and even a little gallery in the back, and with the nice added touch of a teepee in the middle of it all. It had amazingly lush carpets and furniture. Chandeliers hung overhead along with wooden canoes, the store was coated grand wooden fixtures, the interior aesthetic and merchandising was tip top. The leather goods spread from wallets, shoes, messenger bags, belts, any and everything you could possibly want made out of leather was in attendance. The whole time walking around the store I started to questions Will Leather Goods intention on being here, what’s it doing in Detroit? Why here out of all places.

Detroit has been on a “comeback” for the past 20 years? Now is it actual happening or is it the smoke screen of gentrified areas making us believe this. Midtown is home of what many people believe to be Detroit’s booming knight in shining armor, Shinola. My opinion of Shinola isn’t what we’re here to talk about? We are here to talk about what companies like Will Leathers Good see in Detroit, and why choosing Detroit was their move. I’m afraid companies thanks to Shinolas influence are choosing to invest in Detroit because of it’s image of edge and hustle, when that is all a misconception. Why does midtown need another hip store to appeal to a gentrified community or to make Detroit come off as doing better than it actual is. (side-note: Are their associates from the city or casted from the suburbs to appeal to a demographic that doesn’t exist here.) My fear is that companies much like Will Leather Goods are going to see Detroit as a marketing pitch. That it shows that the company has the balls to go to a decaying city and set up shop because they “believe” in what city may hold. When in actuality it’s to showcase another “dynamic” of the the company that shows cultural awareness. Where is that going to leave the city? We don’t need store that only people outside of the city can afford. It’s not what their store or company can do for Detroit it’s what their store will be perceived as by being stationed in Detroit, and especially to the rest of the world. These companies don’t care how people in the city see or perceive them, they care about the rest of the world. They are choosing to be in Detroit, it seems companies are just using Detroit to up their own personal brand and to push out products that don’t hold any value to city natives. It holds value to people outside of Detroit that want a memento to come off as if they support and believe in Detroit to their suburban neighbors.

This is only the beginning, with Midtown starting to boom it’s only inevitable that more stores and companies see Detroit as an opportunity. Not as opportunity for the city more of an opportunity for themselves. What happened if these Detroit branches go under, they pack up and leave and go back to where they were based while leaving Detroit even more destroyed than before. These companies have the money to enter Detroit, they surely have enough of it to leave and never look back. Only now when Detroit is booming with gentrification and appeal will the city seem marketable; once it passes and they don’t see any personal profit for being here they will leave. Only giving Detroit more abandoned buildings to deal with.

Viberg is a one of the best footwear brands out there, even when paying 500+ for a pair of boots you’re guaranteed to get your money's worth. Viberg has been around longer than most of us have been alive, and that’s for good reasons. It’s a heritage brand but still can be integrated into the most modern of wardrobes, and it’s all due to its silhouette. It’s slim in all the right ways, partially structured  and has a sleek look and design to them. What’s the best detail of this boot is the black moose leather, it’s dusty and subtle and doesn't have that glossy leather finish seen on most Viberg Service Boots. The wear and age is what the is going to make this boot purchase worth it. If you don’t want to jump on the Timberland wave and go with something a little different and more expensive go with these. 

Dover Street Market is one of the best spots in current menswear, through their one of a kind displays to even the brands that choose to carry, DSM is a force. Whenever DSM choose to do a collection with a brand they always create something that helps the brand speak from a different angle all while still showcasing what the brand represents on it’s own (i.e. Supreme x DSM). This time around the teamed up with indie label Anti Anti Social Club. AASC holds a certain age of mystery about them, the brands is from Stussy affiliate Neek Lurk which may be a reason why. The brands takes this sort of cool teen tumblr aesthetic and makes it actually cool. From their abstract website and undescriptive product titles, they have something of their own and it’s authentic. Teaming up with DSM will only help them with pushing their brand further. The collection features a range of graphic tees in pastel colors with vague emotional meaning like “never again”. They’re differently are quirky and offbeat but in a tasteful way, which makes them appealing. They would look good paired with just about any jacket or flannel and have every cool kid envying you.