Bad Mushroom

SPOILER ALERT! Do not click this if you haven’t watched up to Season 5 Episode 11!

Disclaimer: This is an unofficial, fan-made Once Upon A Time connections chart. I do not, in any way, own the characters or their likenesses. I am not affiliated with ABC or Disney. ABC and Disney own all the rights to Once Upon A Time. This is just a fan creation.

Full size viewable at bad-mushroom.com

My Mom and I have very different tastes in television. She likes watching Hallmark movies and home renovation shows, while I almost exclusively watch things that are violent and have an element of the fantastic to it. With only one TV set in the house, she usually gets to watch her shows when they come on, and I’ll watch mine On Demand or on Hulu a few days later. However, there is one show that has the magical power to bring us together, and that’s ABC’s Once Upon a Time. It’s got the ooey gooey stuff Mom looks for, and the fighting I like too.

Unfortunately, though, my Mom gets pretty confused by the storyline. Understandably so. OUAT is not the most straightforward show. It’s essentially a soap opera with fairy tale characters, way better actors, special effects, and drool-worthy costumes. So a lot of the time I’ve got to stop and answer questions like, “Who’s that?”, “Wasn’t he dead?”, and “Where is this person?”. So, to help her navigate the complicated and tangled relationship landscape of The Enchanted Forest/Storybrooke in time to celebrate the 100th episode, I’ve created a handy dandy chart.

Just a few things to note. The lines reflect either current relationship statuses as of mid-Season 5 if both parties are alive, or the status at time of death of one or both parties. For example, King Leopold is listed as both “married” to Queen Eva and “re-married” to Regina because technically he was still married to Eva when she died, and still married to Regina when he died.

I know a lot of you will look at this and probably think things like, “But Mulan met Belle first!” or “The Blue Fairy helped pretty much everyone!”. I realized that, but for the sake of simplicity, I had to omit a connection or two. I’ve found that too many overlapping lines created confusion, so I tried to keep them to a minimum.

Also, I know that we have information on several characters’ families that were omitted from the chart. For example, we know Rapunzel had a brother who died, and her parents were king and queen of their kingdom. And we all know that Cinderella had a stepmom and two stepsisters. But if both parents’ names are unknown, I left them out. It was also to save space. (Seriously, this file was starting to get out of hand. Full size, this puppy was 2GB and let me tell you, Photoshop was not happy about it.) But if information on them ever surfaces, I’ll be sure to update the chart.

A special thanks goes out to the people who run and contribute to the Once Upon a Time and ABC Once Upon a Time wikias. I never could have compiled all of this if it weren’t for your dedication to providing accurate summaries and beautiful screencaps and promo images. Thank you thank you thank you!

Hello lovely followers!

I’ve just launched a self-hosted blog at www.bad-mushroom.com. It’s shiny and new, with updated images. I’ve made everything brighter (I didn’t realize all my images were kind of grey!) and the url watermarks are all consistent. It always drove me nuts that, because I changed URLs a few times, they were all over the place. But no more! Now my content has it’s own, cozy little home on the internet.

This is an exciting new step for me, and I hope that you’ll continue to follow me! I’ve got my RSS feed set up so you can get updates on your readers of choice. And they’ve been split up into categories, so if you want to see only my knit and crochet projects and not my nail art, you can do that. I’m also on Bloglovin so if you use their app, you can get updates there too.

Do not fret, though. I will still add my posts here on Tumblr, and of course I will still answer asks. I’d never leave you guys! This is just a new, slightly more organized way to access my content.

#BobRossOnTwitch nail art

The yarn/hook size is the easiest way to create an egg of a different size, but it’s definitely not the only way to upscale or downscale. 

(Haha, I had to make that pun at least once. Sorry!)

TO MAKE A BIGGER EGG—Base: Add 2/4/6/etc. more increase rows. The increase pattern is simple. Each row adds 1 more “hdc into the next stitch” than the previous row. Your final amount of stitches should always end with an addition of a multiple of 12 (i.e. 60/72/84/etc.). There’s a reason for this and I’ll get into it in the scales section. Just trust me for now.

I’d suggest adding the new rows before the final “hdc into each st” row. But to keep it even and rounded, you also have to shift rows.

Let’s break down 60 as an example. The original pattern has 4 increase rows, a straight hdc row, 3 increase rows, and another straight hdc row (4/1/3/1). You always want the first increase set to have 1 more row than the second. Since you’re adding 2 new rows, the new pattern would be 5/¼/1. So instead of

RND 5: [2hdc into first st, hdc into next 3 sts] 6 times (30)RND 6: hdc into each st (30)RND 7: [2hdc into first st, hdc into next 4 sts] 6 times (36)

it would shift to become

RND 5: [2hdc into first st, hdc into next 3 sts] 6 times (30)RND 6: [2hdc into first st, hdc into next 4 sts] 6 times (36)RND 7: hdc into each st (36)

And after that you’d keep making increases until you reach 60 stitches. Then you’d end with a straight hdc row.

So far so good?

Scales: If you divide the number of stitches you have on your last row of the base by 6, you’ll get the number of scales you’ll start with. So in my pattern, because I end on 48 stitches, it starts with 8 scales.

Okay, here’s why I mentioned that 12 is an important number. 2 rows creates 12 more stitches to the base. Think of it this way: there is 1 scale for every 6 stitches in the base. This happens because 2 foundation posts are worked into 6 stitches. A scale is worked onto every other post. So 1 scale every 6 stitches. Here’s a drawing to explain, in case you’re a visual learner:

To evenly increase the amount of scales, you have to add 2 scales. This is to keep the increases and decreases centered. So that’s why the base addition always has to be a multiple of 12.

So now that you have the amount of scales you want to start with, where in the following rows do you increase and decrease? We have to shift the foundation stitches in the same manner we shifted the base. This is the first increase row of the original pattern.

RND 3: ch2, dc into first post, ch2, INC, [foundation] 3 times, INC, [foundation] 2 times, 2sc b/w scale center (20 posts)

It goes INC/3/INC/2. Still working with our 60 stitch example, you’d have to add 2 more foundations. So it would become

RND 3: ch2, dc into first post, ch2, INC, [foundation] 4 times, INC, [foundation] 3 times, 2sc b/w scale center (20 posts)

INC/4/INC/3.

And decreases work the same way. So this

RND 15: ch2, dc into first post, ch2, DEC, [foundation] 4 times, DEC, [foundation] 3 times, 2sc b/w scale center (20 posts)

becomes

RND 15: ch2, dc into first post, ch2, DEC, [foundation] 5 times, DEC, [foundation] 4 times, 2sc b/w scale center (20 posts)

DEC/4/DEC/3 –> DEC/5/DEC/4

So that handles how to adjust the rows, but how many rows of each should you do? Well, that’s a little harder to formulate. Shaping the egg took the longest when I was patterning. And without testing, I can’t give you a definitive formula. However, to help, I’ve made a grid with my pattern.

Each box represents 1 scale. Feel free to take it into your editing program of choice, or to print it out and color it in. As long as you follow the basic shape that I’ve laid down, your egg should come out fine.

TO MAKE A SMALLER EGG—The same concepts apply if you want to make a smaller egg, just in reverse. So instead of adding rows and foundation stitches where I’ve indicated, remove them.

Shaping for a smaller egg is easier to estimate. I would suggest starting by keeping the ratio of scales to rows in accordance with how many you start with. For example, if you decreased the base stitches to 36, you’d start with 6 scales. The first 12 rows of the original pattern go 8/10x2/12x4/10x5. So for a 6 scale egg I’d try 6/8x2/10x4/8x4. It keeps within ratio of the original and removes one of the rows from the section with more consecutive rows.

And for both larger and smaller eggs, I suggest you always close with 3 scales.