The idea of making a tote bag didn’t appeal to me.Who doesn’t have tens of canvas totes already? It seemed wasteful and unnecessary.
After making one as commission, I got it! Yes this is a canvas bag but it’s the best version of a canvas tote bag and here’s why:
The straps are just the right length and width to sit on your shoulder comfortably. The bag is just the right depth and width that it…
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Last week I had a craft date with a friend that’s making things to raise money for charity, got to the shop to get my missing bag pieces. I also sewed the zipper I got! I also saw Japanese movie called “Sensei, would you sit beside me?” and spend the entire film getting inspired by the wardrobe. All loose linen clothing, drop shoulder top, elastic waists layered with loose cardigans. All thing I…
Last week was more busy than I expected so I didn’t have any time to sew and also no time to think about sewing. This is where the beauty of taking things week by week came it. Last night, after a week with lots of job stress, doctors visits, sick kids, sick partner … I made sewing a priority. After being on the back burner for the week, I needed it more and more to recharge my mind. So I let the…
Week 9
Welcome to week 9. 2 months into this. Last week I stuck to my plan and made a couple of gifts. I also pulled up the materials to make myself a bag as well.
Making bags is always so nice and so rewarding. Funny how I constantly am surprised by this.
In addition to this I’ve been using the tutorial from the Deer & Doe website to work on my wardrobe planning.This week I’ll keep on with…
Last week I managed to mend a baby garment, a pair of undies for myself and two pairs if trousers for the kids. Of my intended mending I still have one more piece but I need to rethread my overlock for it so I’ll keep it for when I have white thread on it.Getting though the mending was like pulling teeth but it was rewarding when it was done.Last week Check your thread dropped an inspirational…
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Last week I dove into my fun sewing project and made a dinosaur suit for my 1,5 year old and worked on planned projects and AND I finished the damned pjs. Just in time as my 3,5 year old almost jumped a size since I cut them in December. I also finished another blog post collecting my thoughts on tracking and journal and how they helped me.
This weekThe focus this week is 100% on mending. I much…
What worked for me in 2022
The Spreadsheet
It started with a spreadsheet from the “Whole 30 fabric challenge” by Jacinda Green .As I kept buying fabric, this became a list of shame. Failing at this challenge more than once was confrontational.
There are many jokes on the internet, often from pages of sellers, about buying fabric as therapy, about buying being your hobby, about hiding purchases…
As a sewist with access to a lot of fancy commercial-grade equipment, I think about this a lot. People have this idea that there's a lot of automation in making clothes, that robots do most of the work. They do not. Very low-wage humans do.
The machines can make fancy stitches, but they can't guide them. Cloth takes fine dexterity and constant adjustments to work with. Any sewist who's tried to sew a straight line but had their thoughts stray know how fast it goes tits up. The 2+ pieces need to be carefully pinned together (expert sewists can use very few pins, but still need some), and then carefully guided and managed so they stay exactly together as the same tension without wrinkles. And if there's any kind of curve, it takes great skill to do all of that while turning at precisely the right angle at the right time while keeping everything together. And then a human has to detect the end and change the stitch appropriately to secure the ends.
And then there's fabric management. A the front the fabric bunches in your lap and tries to fall down at weird angles. At the back in bunches up and tries to pull at weird angles. So you're constantly having to manage where all that fabric is going that you aren't currently sewing. And if you're sewing in the round (like putting on a sleeve), you have to manage bringing the back around to the front. All of this twists the entire garment, which has to be managed even when most of it is sitting next to you. In home sewing this is sometimes a 2-person job.
A machine cannot do any of that that. Automating clothing manufacturing is a holy grail people have been working on for a couple hundred years and are nowhere close to achieving. It takes the kind of very precise and constant adjustment with a sharp mind and keen eye that humans are very good at and machines are very bad at. Machines only sew in straight lines.
But people look at fast fashion prices and assume robots must be making their clothes. But they aren't. Highly skilled human beings in horrific work conditions at breakneck speed and brutal hours are being paid pennies to make even the cheapest and most low-quality garment. The entire commercial and consumer chain has simply dehumanized them into "must be robots."
This red swimsuit is selling for $10.99 from Walmart. It probably cost $2-$3 to produce.
This striped swimsuit is selling for Beefcake Swimwear for $99. This is the fair price for a swimsuit made with ethical labor.
Beefcake is a small Portland, Oregon company that uses local labor, local materials, and doesn't have a high markup. They cost $49 to manufacture (maybe more now with inflation). (With business expenses, trust me that margin is really slim.) Beefcake talks about "The real cost of American-made swimwear." Half the cost to produce is labor costs. I'd wager half the cost of the fabric is also labor costs. This is why clothing isn't typically made in the US, except using prison labor that's pretty literally slavery.
This is the true cost of a product that attempts to not exploit its workers. It's a luxury most people can't afford because the entire labor market exploits workers to the point of being unable to afford anything but exploitative goods and services. Fast fashion has convinced people they greatly benefit from supporting the worst of that exploitation.
These swimsuits were made on similar machines with similar materials by people with similar skill. The same degree of automation went into both of them. But the Walmart manufacturer sewists got paid less than a dollar to make that one and live in abject poverty, and the Beefcake sewists got paid $22, which is livable.
But robots didn't make either of these. human hands did. Human hands made every single piece of clothing in your closet. Think of how to cherish and care for their work.
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New designs. The first one is Sun Luban. The daughter of Bu Lianshi and Sun Quan. Interesting choice for her considering she was a woman who controlled Wu’s politics from behind scenes, a ruthless and efficient woman when it came to that. Only to lose her power to Sun Chen and exiled and possibly killed.
Next is Zhang Changpu. Zhoug Hui’s mother. She must have a thing for older men considering she gave birth to her son when Zhong Yao was over 70 years old.
Edit: Zhoug Hui loved her so much he wrote a biography about her. Also strict mother because of the baton she has in her hand.
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