Black and white photos of women in traditional portuguese costumes | UPDATED
Clothes worn by women from the Viana do Castelo, in the Minho region (northwest of Portugal), during festive seasons. Whether of a religious or social nature, they are richer costumes and were an authentic dowry given to the woman, as they would spend important moments in her life with them, ranging from the wedding to the most important religious festivals, and also at her funeral:
i) Bride dressed as a Bride / Bride in a Wedding photo from Minho – The bride's costume is practically the same as the Mordoma's costume (daughter of a rich farmer). It is a dark and rich attire, that would last a lifetime, and she would even be buried with it. With more attention, it is possible to notice its details in the bride on the right, namely, that it's embroidered with glass beads. The bride exchanges the Mordoma headscarf (colorful and made of silk) for a thin cambric headscarf (light fabric made from cotton or linen) that it’s embroidered and crossed in front, as is the case of the bride on the right. But there is also (and more usual) the veil of embroidered lace or tulle, which is carried with its ends hanging over the chest, just like the bride on the left. The other pieces that complement the costume (bride on the left) are the algibeira (traditional separated pocket, in this case, heart-shaped), a skirt at the waist, black slippers, and finally, an apron with the crown and royal coat of arms of Portugal in the center. The bride also carries a votive candle in her hand, or a Palmito (literally, “palm leaf”), which is a decorative and symbolic element made from braided palm branches. But what could not be forgotten to take was the Lenço dos namorados (literally, “Lovers' Handkerchief”. The bride carries it in the same hand where she carries the votive candle (bride on the left). This handkerchief that has always accompanied her, is made up of floral motifs, love phrases and plant motifs. Ennobling the costume, it's profusely decorated with traditional gold. The shine of the countless golden pieces rivals the gleam of the embroidery and sequins on the luxurious black costume. In the photo on the right, the woman displays two crosses hanging from a beaded necklace, plus a set of gold chains, known as cordões. The gold chains mesure 2 to 2,40 m (in this case, they can go around the neck more than three times), and can vary in weight (these ones are thin). The gold chain was the third gold that was offered to a girl as part of her dowry. In the bride on the left, the piece that immediately catches the eye is the giant heart, known as the coração de Viana (literally, Heart of Viana), which practically falls on the bride's lap. The pendant is made up of the heart itself, and a crown element, as it is a symbolic representation of the Sacred Heart of Jesus and Mary. On the ear, she uses traditional earrings called brincos à rainha (literally, Queen-like earrings). These ear pendants from the 19th century are considered the most ostentatious and popular earrings in traditional gold. Finally, the bride here is adorned with numerous gold Libras, that is, gold sovereign coins in a quite elaborate gold setting, with several variations of these. Usually, the preferred sovereigns for this type of pendant are those bearing the effigy of Queen Victoria, usually called libras cara de mulher (sovereign with woman's face) or libras da rainha com véu (sovereign of queen with veil), related to the queen's portrait. Oddly enough, remittances of this currency arrived in Portugal, not only through families returning from emigration in Brazil, but also because, at the same time, the export of live cattle to England had become important, the production of which even involved small farmers.
iii & iv) Women wearing a wealthy Lavradeira (farmwife) costume – The lavradeira's costume is the most colourful of the Minho costumes. The first layer of the costume is a cotton or linen chemise, with full sleeves, beautifully embroidered in traditional blue styles, and white pantaloons, with lace at the knee, long white socks and even embroidered slippers or dancing shoes. The bodice is separate, which is always sewn in two parts: the upper part is of the major colour of the outfit, while the lower part black. The front is cut low, heavy with traditional embroidery. The skirt is made of thick fabric in stripes or checks in bright, vivid colours, in a full bouffant style that are shown at their best in their energetic twirling dances. The skirt itself has a deep band at the hem, and the embroidery is very often traditional to the particular village. More often than not, red is the predominant colour, associated with this traditional costume. In fact, red or blue attire was worn by girls, but when they got married or they started to wear only blue for this specific costume (the blue was also worn in times of mourning). However, the blue costume, also known as “traje de dó” (can be loosely translated as the sad costume), demonstrated a certain prudence or even modesty in a difficult or anxious moment in the lives of farmers. With somber tones, it was not only used when they were in mourning, but also when someone in the farming family was sick, bedridden or even emigrated. The green version was specific and famously worn in a town in Viana do Castelo, called Geraz do Lima. In the Lavradeira on the left photo you can barely see the lower part of the costume, but you can see the side of the skirt in the Lavradeira on the right photo, as well as, the full embroidered apron that they could use. They both wear two scarves: one drawn across the chest and tied at the back, at the waist, and another tied at the top of the head (it can be tied in different ways). Finally, they have a separated pocket called algibeira (you can see it on the Lavradeira on the right), in which they can carry the lovers' handkerchief. The Lavradeira on the left, is actually holding that handkerchief on her left hand. Regarding the traditional gold, the Lavradeira on the left is wearing an exorbitant amount of Libras and cordões with many turns, as I already explained in the bride's costume, as well as, a cross. The other Lavradeira on the right, i find it more difficult to understand what gold ornaments she wears, except for the cordões that are easily identified, and a cross.
