Garrigue (Skadar, Monténégro)
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Garrigue (Skadar, Monténégro)

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Serbian woman from the village Vraka, Shkodra municipality, Albania. Kel Marubi, Marubi photographs Museum
“The women of Vraka wear their hair tied in two braids on each side of their faces and secure it with a cowrie shell. It is rare to find a cowrie shell so far west in Europe. One child had a cowrie shell and blue pearls on her forehead. The women would not say why. The men laughed and said it was against the Evil Eye - the women had put it there. I started to draw the room. The woman took the baby and pushed the other children away. “You can draw the house,” she said, “but not the children.”” – High Albania, Edith Durham.
The distant sounds of the Call To Prayer rang out across the steely waters of Lake Skadar, crackling out through distorted speakers atop the minarets of several mosques, clashing and vying for dominance like the howling of street dogs. The sky was reflected in the glassy lake surface as it turned slowly from blue to purple to an electrifying red which set the clouds ablaze. And we were making our preparations to head deep into the mountains.
We’d been parked up amongst the waterlogged trees and lake reeds for several days, a furtive little spot accessible by driving through a shallow river that had swollen to twice its size following the rainfall on the day we arrived. But now the blissful sunset colours cast down onto the distant mountains of Montenegro and all was calm in the far North of Albania again.
Of all the lakes we’d camped by in recent months, Lake Skadar was easily the largest and most impressive.⠀
While we’d stuck religiously to our inland route around the Balkan Peninsula these lakes gave us some comfort and a gentle reminder of the ocean’s edge we’d left behind in search of provincial adventures. Although we’d grown up a stone’s throw from the sea and these country’s coastlines provided an easily navigable and scenic route, we’d been drawn to see more of Europe’s hinterlands, a world away from glitzy seaside resorts and tourist attractions. In the heartlands of Albania we’d discovered spectacular mountainscapes, empty lands, impassable roads and an authenticity, warmth and unrivalled hospitality from its people. The same was true of the Balkans’ whole interior, and in fact we’d only briefly touched the sea in Thessaloniki since our departure from Calais many months prior.
These lesser-visited areas are what we live for; places you won’t find in any guidebook, unblemished of tourist attractions. Just raw and honest countryside, nothing more.⠀
We finished packing up our backpacks just as the last of the light was fading, ready for our journey tomorrow into the most remote corner of this country. ⠀
⠀
Godinje
Lake Skadar, Montenegro

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When you wake up at 4:30am on Sunday after a hard week at work to go on a f@$ boat trip. One of the best days in my life to be honest,
Photo Booth : Maksim Dyachuk :
Lake Skadar II
Godinje
Lake Skadar, Montenegro