#second trip

A Transition

Second Trip

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I wanted to do something significant for the start of my 51st year. Having done a Polar Plunge or three, I figured this would be a great idea: Swimming in the waters of the Irish Sea, at sunrise, on my birthday… a ritual cleansing of the old year to start the new. And based on my research, there was only one place that spoke to me.

So I boarded the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit elevated rail system) and headed south.

The Forty Foot is a promontory on the southern tip of Dublin Bay at Sandycove, south of Dublin proper, from which people have been swimming in the Irish Sea all year round for almost 260 years, according to 40foot.org.

The deep sea water inlet hidden within the rugged, rock-strewn coast between Sandycove and Bullock harbors just south of Dun Laoghaire, has been a favorite swimmers’ place throughout the whole year even in the depth of winter. Because of its relative inaccessibility in pre-modern times it came to be a particularly favorite place of bathing for Dublin’s small band of male naturists to whom the promontory afforded a high degree of shelter from prying eyes and from the ladies.

There was an award winning short film regarding this place and its people. (Times have changed.) (http://www.thisisirishfilm.ie/shorts/forty-foot )

Today started by walking to the statue of Molly Malone, famous of the song. Referred to by locals as “The Tart With The Cart”, The statue was relocated to the Suffolk Street location from Grafton Street to make way for new streetcar (LUAS) lines.

Our guide, Tony, pulled up right on time, got us situated efficiently and off we went. http://www.extremeireland.ie/day-tours/celtic-boyne-valley/p13/ The weather was cold and rainy, but the group was hearty, made up of French, German, Norwegians, Tasmanians, Australians, (yes I know they are in the same country, but they made a point of it, so who am I to argue) and a few of Americans. We numbered 31 strong and Tony started telling us tales of the Republic and it’s darke start with England. (Check Wikipedia for https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_de_Clare,_2nd_Earl_of_Pembroke )

We traveled to the most sacred site of ancient Ireland, “The Hill of Tara” which is one of the most essential historical sites located in the Boyne Valley. The importance of this site is given to the fact that the High Kings ruled the country from this exact location. In addition, it is said that a quarter of Ireland’s countryside can be seen from this mound. That may be true in clear weather, but as you can see, not so much on this day.

Though best known as the seat of the High Kings of Ireland, the Hill of Tara has been an important site since the late Stone Age when a passage-tomb was constructed there. Tara was at the height of its power as a political and religious centre in the early centuries after Christ. It also holds the Mound of the Hostages, which links it to my ancestor, Niall of the Nine Hostages.

Next we drove toward the quaint town of Trim;  Trim is situated on the River Boyne and is one of Ireland's heritage towns,. It once had the oldest and largest religious settlements in Ireland. The town is dominated by the medieval Trim Castle, which was built by Hugh de Lacy in 1173. (Not long after Strongbow.) The largest Norman castle in Europe, it is now restored and visitors can access the 75ft square keep and grounds by guided tour. Sections of the  film Braveheart were filmed here, using this castle as York.. Soon after proclaiming Christianity in Ireland, St. Patrick built a church here on land granted to him by the son of the High King. He built it near an ancient ford that crossed the river just beyond the bridge and it was from this that Trim got its name.

Then we headed to the passage tombs of Loughcrew. Loughcrew Passage Tomb is one of the four main passage tomb sites in Ireland (the others are Brú na Bóinne, Carrowkeel and Carrowmore). They are thought to date from about 3300 BC. The site is spread across three hilltops, Carnbane East, Carnbane West, and Patrickstown. The Irish name for the site is Sliabh na Caillí, which means "mountain of the hag". Legend has it that the monuments were created when a giant hag, striding across the land, dropped her cargo of large stones from her apron.

This tomb was built so that the beams of the rising sun on the spring and autumnal equinox causes the light to shine down the passage and illuminate the art on the back stone. The person that discovered this (Brennan) also discovered alignments in Cairn L, Knowth, and Dowth in the Boyne Valley. The Cairn T alignment is similar to the well-known illumination at the passage tomb at Brú na Bóinne (Newgrange), which is aligned to catch the rays of the winter solstice sunrise. There are about twenty-three tombs in the Loughcrew complex in addition to Cairn L and Cairn T, along with additional archaeological sites.

What they don’t tell you is that Loughcrew as at the top of a bloody mountain and, being a greenfield site, is tough to navigate in the rain. If you plan to see it or the Hill of Tara in the mist or rain, bring shoes with good traction.

After a short drive we arrived at Monasterboice. The historic ruins of Monasterboice (Irish: Mainistir Bhuithe) are of an early Christian settlement, north of Drogheda. It was founded in the late 5th century by Saint Buithe who died around 521, and was an important centre of religion and learning until the founding of nearby Mellifont Abbey in 1142. The site houses two churches built in the 14th century or later and an earlier round tower (300 feet tall, used to protect the monks and locals from Viking raids), but it is most famous for its 10th century high crosses. The 18 feet tall Muiredach's High Cross is regarded as the finest high cross in the whole of Ireland. It features biblical carvings of both the Old and New Testaments of the Bible. The North and West crosses are also fine examples of celtic crosses, but these have suffered significantly more erosion.

The last stop of the day was in the town of Drogheda. Drogheda (/ˈdrɒhədə/; /ˈdrɔːdə/; Irish: Droichead Átha, meaning "bridge of the ford") is an industrial and port town 56 km (35 mi) north of Dublin. It is the last bridging point on the River Boyne before it enters the Irish Sea. This town was brutalized when Cromwell came on his 9 month “vacation” to root out and destroy the loyalists to King Charles I, whom he had deposed and had murdered. (See info on the English Civil War: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Civil_War  and the Protestant Ascendancy (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Protestant_Ascendancy) .

As you may have guessed by my last post, I have been seeking out the oldest operating Pubs in Dublin. Those that may or may not be on the typical tourist list, but that would give me a better feel for the true Pub culture. And none embodies that like Mulligan’s.

Mulligan’s is that place where, even on approach, you know you are stepping into history. The wood bar has no shellac, the regulars are quick with a suggestion and the publican is a community servant. This pub was even raided by the Black and Tans! That’s history for you.

The next stop was one that both the lads at Neary’s and Kehoe’s made sure I was going to visit. Not for the décor or the vibe, although they both met my standard for the visit, (it really does feel like a seventies time machine) but because they made the best grilled cheese sandwiches right there behind the bar. Situated right across from Powerscourt Center, Grogan’s it is not to be missed. The regulars come in from the back. If you come in off William Street, they’ll know you’ve just stumbled in.

Then the trek to two very different pubs. Located a few blocks from the end of St. Stephen’s Green, you first come across Doheny & Nesbitt. The front looks like a well maintained pub, with the typical accoutrements, but it has an updated finish. The back bar could have been pulled out of any newer offering, except for the engaging staff and vocal patrons. Fish and Chips were good, conversation was better.  

Across the street at an angle stands Toners. Toners is wonderfully preserved, from old-school, waist-high counters to dispensary drawers, it has the typical privacy partitions, but they are mirrored. As I was wearing a red raincoat, it was a bit distracting. But the publicans were engaging and gave me a few more names on my list of places to visit.

If you have ever talked to someone about their trip to Ireland, at least one of their stories will have included a Pub in it. Ireland’s Pubs (short for Public Houses) are a cornerstone of social life. A place to meet friends, family and neighbors to talk, and yes, drink. It should surprise no one that, holding nearly one-fourth of Ireland’s population, that Dublin would have a vibrant Pub scene.

My goal was to not only stop at the most popular pubs with the tourists, but to find some where the majority of patrons were locals. As I started this quest on an early Friday evening, I was given a couple to start with by a hotel Concierge. (Here’s a tip: Go to a larger or more famous hotel in Dublin and look for someone wearing this or a pin with the keys at least:

These keys mean they are members of the Les Clef d’Or, a society of leading Hotel Concierge. If the tales are to be believed, (and I haven’t been led astray to date,) they know every “best of” list in Dublin by heart, and which ones are right and which ones are rubbish.

Due to my location at the start of this journey, the first on my list was The Palace on Fleet Street.

Established in 1843, the Palace evokes an exclusive vibe. Not due to the engagement of the staff, but because you get the feeling you’ve discovered something unique. Groups gathered together talking about work, sports, family or whatever else was on their minds. A sketch in the back lounge, according to the Publican, Sean, depicts the famous (Flann O'Brien, Patrick Kavanagh et al) who frequented there. And while it was early on a Friday afternoon, it wasn’t early enough to get a pew in back. The Palace is as the name suggests; timeless and elegant.

The next Pub, geographically, was the world famous Temple Bar. Although it is a tourist attraction, and a later pub staffer called it a “plastic pub”, I just like the vibe. Yes, it was packed early on a Friday afternoon. Yes, most of what I heard spoken was not in an Irish accent. But everyone there is having a good time and the staff were all smiles and engaging, even if it was a more superficial engagement. They were too busy to do anything more. Plus they have their own Irish Whiskey Label. (Although they can’t yet ship to the US.)

The next Pub on this Friday trek was The Stags Head. This made my top three. Well-built pint of Guinness. Engaging, knowledgeable and jovial staff. The patron base was welcoming as well, including a mix of Trinity students, stockbrokers and miscellaneous walk-ins like myself. Great conversation. Add in the marble-surfaced bar and being watched over by the huge name sake, the main bar could have been removed from a Victorian-era time capsule. From the moment you walked in you were made to feel welcomed and important. Who could ask for more?

The Long Hall was on my list, simply for the novelty, I believe. Narrow and, yes, long. Lanterns, muskets and the fact that Phil Lynott shot a video here add to the randomness of it all. An antique clock forms the arch between bar and lounge. “Faded grandeur” is how one person described it. While the publican was nice enough, the patron base was a bit too self- absorbed for my taste. Neat, but if you have a time constraint, this is one you can miss.

Neary’s is unique, and in a grand way. Wood paneled bar on one side, restaurant style on the other. This also is in my top three. A carpeted floor makes Neary’s stand out if everything else didn’t. This has an “old soul” feel to it. The staff in pressed while shirts and ties, the local patrons engaging. They seemed to be a mix of city-workers and Chatham Street diners. It also had an upscale feel to it. Brighter lighting may have helped that. It also may have just been the respectful and genuine interaction with everyone there. This is definitely not a tourist pub. I hope too many people don’t find out about it. Is that selfish? Absolutely. If you ever visit you’ll understand.

McDaid’s was suggested to me when I mentioned older pubs, and it is definitely natives that frequent this place. It was packed. And while the staff was pleasant enough, I didn’t get that welcoming feeling from some of my favorites. It felt like I walked into someone else’s high school reunion. More accurately, it felt like I had walked into a Liverpool pub with an Arsenal shirt on. I barely finished my pint before I took my leave.

Kehoe’s reminded me of College Hill Sundries in Greensboro, NC, due to the mix of customers if not the style, and is the last of my top three for this stroll. It was very busy, but even with that the staff and patrons were more engaging. The Dubliner hailed it "an old man's bar for the kids", but I was not out of place as a man in my 5th decade. Going to the men’s toilet was an adventure; I almost knocked myself out on the low overhang to the stairs down. Then the stairs themselves looked like an Escher painting. Of course that could be because this was the last of the seven pubs I visited, but others agreed.

I didn’t go into this one, but I might have to go back, just because of its name.

The second leg of any flight always has the feeling of the part of the trip with the most challenges. It could be because you have to run to catch it or that it is the longest in time spent in the air. For this trip, I think it felt that way for me because I had just enough time in my layover to get out of the “I’m on my way somewhere” mindset. Or it could have been because the broadest (shoulder width) individual was sitting next to me with me against the window, and the person in front of me was in full recline the whole flight. First world problems, right?

The flight from JFK to Dublin was a smooth one, as I have found most of the larger planes that cruise at higher altitudes seem to be. It was also a fast one. We arrived 45 minutes early due to great tailwinds. (The map on the screen had them over 90 miles an hour at one point.)

Of course, with the positives come the challenges. We arrived at 4:15 am, so very little in Dublin’s Terminal 2 was open, nor were the buses running yet. However, being early allowed me to be more relaxed through customs and baggage claim. That’s new to me and very relaxing.

One of the items I learned about on my last trip to Dublin was the LEAP card. These cards allow for unlimited use of the 747 airport bus service, all Dublin Bus scheduled services (not valid on tours), all Luas (tram) services and all DART and Commuter Rail in the Short Hop Zone (all of Dublin city and county) for the duration of the card. The Leap Visitor Card comes in 1 day (24 hours) for €10.00, 3 days (72 hours) for €19.50 and 7 days (168 hours) for €40.00. Your chosen time period starts from the first time you use the card.   And you can purchase the card at the SPAR store in Terminal 2 right after you clear customs.

So I used my newly purchased LEAP card and boarded the first 747 Airport bus of the day at 6 am. Sharp. I mean to the second. And if you are going to use this service here is your warning: Board quickly and sit down quickly, because they will start moving quickly. But that punctuality and speed gets you into Dublin quickly as well. I had only two blocks to walk from the bus stop to my hotel.

I am staying at the Dublin Central Inn. And their typical check-in time is 2 pm. So I had some time to kill. They are kind enough to let you store your luggage until a room is available and they have a guest lounge that you can relax in, but I had a mission. A full Irish Breakfast. And a pint.

But, it is now just nearing 7 am? Surely no one will sell you a Guinness at 7 am? Well, an Early House Pub will.

Early house pubs were given a special license to open at 7 A.M to cater for shift workers, night workers and any one fancying an early morning pint and a full Irish breakfast. Slattery’s Bar and Early House has been operating this license for many years and providing quality food and drink to both tourists and locals alike. These early house licenses have stopped being issued, but the existing ones were grandfathered in when the law was changed. There are only 6 left in Dublin.

I first heard about Slattery’s while searching YouTube for videos on Dublin. Anthony Bourdain (a very hard to please cooking chef on one of those food networks) had profiled the pub and its breakfast while he was in town. I had recommended it to a friend who had visited recently and they said it would be worth the walk. Boy was it. The atmosphere, the people, and dear lord the food… well worth it. Both from a taste and a value perspective. The Mighty Breakfast and a pint was only €13.

Then, it was a bit chilly out (it is November after all) so I headed back to the hotel. The folks were kind enough to have prioritized my room and I was able to check in early… 5 hours early with no extra charge. The building is very European with the hallways twisting this way and that, evidence of additions and interior restructuring over the many years. The room is small (I had reserved a single) but it was clean, well maintained, and, when you can get 5 nights for just a little north of €400, especially just 2 blocks for the Spire on O’Connell Street? Winner.

Vacations are one of those things that alter my perceptions of things. As my friend says, “You got nothing but time.” So delays don’t frustrate me like they would if I was on a business trip or on my way home.

When I booked the flight to Dublin through Aer Lingus (https://new.aerlingus.com/html/en-US/home.html) , I was expecting to have to book a connecting flight separately. After all Aer Lingus doesn’t fly into or out of my home airport. But technology and business partnerships of the modern airline industry allowed me to book all of it at one time. The ease of use of the website was a welcome change from most.

When I arrived at the airport, the check-in process with the partner airline was seamless. The Jet Blue (http://www.jetblue.com ) employee at the check-in desk (I am embarrassed that I didn’t get her name) was as pleasant as any airline employee I have met. She even gave me back my bag so that I could double check that the TrakDot  (https://www.trakdot.com/en) in my checked bag was on.

But she made one mistake. She told me that the flight I was on was the first out of my airport for JetBlue that day. So it was disappointing that the flight was delayed.

Again, not a big deal… I had purposely chosen flights with significant time between arrival and departure, so it would not affect my travel plans. So my arrival at JFK was delayed by 30 minutes… In the grand scheme of things that is nothing.

As I had known that my layover would be significant, and having my last such trip include screaming children coming up and hitting me, I decided to invest in some quiet time. So I purchased entry into the AirSpace Lounge (http://www.airspacelounge.com) in Terminal 5 of the John F. Kennedy Airport. 

Located between Gates 24 and 25, it was the first “airport lounge” I had entered… well, entered and was not thrown out of… and it was quite enjoyable. I received $10 credit toward bar or food, with coffee, sodas and tap water included in the entry fee. The fee, as low as $20, is worth every penny. The volume of the airport drops away as you enter, and there is plenty of comfortable seating, not to mention the plethora of outlets to charge your various electronic devices. It even had a departure board in the corner. But that wasn’t the best thing. The best thing was the toilet.