#second republic

Petticoat (Worn by Millicent Rogers as a skirt)

1840-1860

Block-printed Indian cotton textiles were imported into France during the second half of the 17th century. Their popularity spurred imitators and by the 18th century successful European copies were being produced. Indiennes, as the French version of Indian printed cottons were known, were fashionable during the late 18th century and retained their popularity in the Provence region, where they were adapted and retained for use in regional costume. The textile used in this petticoat is an example of a 19th-century Provençal indienne. The adoption of this printed petticoat for use by Millicent Rogers, known for her inimitable combinations of traditional silhouettes and 20th-century sensibilities, brings this regional French garment and once-fashionable textile full circle.

One morning (in 1851) a startled Maxime du Camp heard a violent ring at his bell, and Gautier, pale, hatless, and dishevelled, burst into the study, collapsed on the sofa and said " They want to put me in prison."  He had refused again (he had refused consistently) to mount guard with the garde nationale and he had been sentenced to 24 hours'  imprisonment.  That morning two of the Sûreté had arrived with a warrant, but he had escaped down the back stairs and run to safety.  Du Camp pointed out that Gautier might save himself much trouble by complying with rules. " I refuse to mar my appearance with a ridiculous costume"  answered that ardent apostle of Art for Art's Sake. " I'm humiliated enough already, wearing a coat that would do for a concierge. I won't demean myself with a tunic with epaulettes and a shako with a pom pom...I shall confess only a religion which believes in color, I shall serve only in an army that respects the human form. "  Whether the Sûreté shared these aesthetic opinions , DuCamp does not record; but on 29 September Gautier's readers were blandly informed " we confess in humility that we did not watch the first performance of Mosquita la Sorciere...We were busy rotting on the damp straw of the dungeons in  the mausoleum of the Garde Nationale."  

“I refuse to wear that tacky costume” is already an amazing dodge for why you’re going CO 

it’s even more amazing coming from a man who routinely dressed like this

by Melina A. Masterson, University of Connecticut, 2016

«There is little about the Wu Ming collective that does not challenge long-existing paradigms and traditions.» 

Girl’s Bodice

Tailleur Filles & Cie

1840–60