#royalcafe

Jonny was a keen, attentive, polite, courteous driver probably in his late 30’s (although it’s hard to tell). He is married with 3 kids, which he considers to be very lucky. He didn’t go to school and can’t read or write, he learnt to speak English through conversations with tourists.

He gave us no indication of price other than wanting us to pay what we thought it was worth. It’s hard to know how to value the service he provided for the day - one man on a push bike carrying 2 is hard work (we did get some much needed help uphill from a passing motorcyclist! And guilt got the better of Oz on a couple of occasions so he jumped out and pushed). We based our payment on the price a cab driver had told us it would be which was 1000rps. Listening today to the guesthouse owner, 400rps would have been the right price for a Tuk Tuk. So considering he was cycling rather than driving we were happy to have given him what equates to around £12. He left with a smile on his face and asked us to promote his services.... he is based on the corner of Royal Cafe opposite the Jalma hospital.

Going around by rickshaw leaves you more exposed in some ways to the extreme poverty on the streets and shanty villages between historic tourist attractions. Our journey yesterday took us within feet of children playing in an area which they also use as a toilet, where the food on offer is shared between humans, goats, pigs, cows and dogs and shelter is constructed from ripped fabric, sticks and rocks. Still they smile, laugh and always say hello! A truly humbling experience.