#rayny rambles

For tools you'll need a pair of pliers, a seam ripper, a phillip's head screwdriver (mine says its a #1 in size), and something to store screws and other small pieces in. I'm using these little mint tins with painter's tape to label where they came from and what they are.

The first step is to unscrew the battery compartment like you normally would to insert batteries. There are two small screws you'll need to undo.

Following that you will have access to the battery compartment where there are 8 small screws that you will need to unscrew next. Be sure to keep these separate from the screws in the battery cover. This will release the piece holding the fur into place. I would go slow here because you will have a bad time if you strip these screws. Be careful when removing the piece as there are sharp points that hurt if you catch your finger on them by mistake.

Here you can see the piece holding the fur into place and the screws I removed. Save these for later when we put everything back in.

Next we are going to carefully start lifting the fur up the shell. Start slowly with this as there are a few steps we need to do to release it. I turn the fur inside out as I pull up. This is going to reveal the tail sensor and the tummy sensor, as well as a piece of stuffing used to fill out the backside.

Next we are going to release the tail sensor without cutting either of the ribbons. This will ensure that we can rehook them up after we are done so that they work! To do this we are going to take the ribbon attached to the shell itself off of the hook it's on. You should be able to wiggle it free with your fingers, but pliers may help too if you find the area too small to grab yourself. Then, just slide the ribbon attached to the tail out from the ribbon attached to the shell and the tail is free!

Next we are going to unplug the tummy sensor. Flip your furby to the other side and gently roll the fur up until you see a red cord coming from the stomach pouch. It should plug onto another cord wrapped around a hook on the left side. From there, you will gently grasp the white box part of the plug in one hand, and the base of the tummy cord/tip of the white box in the other and gently and carefully pull these apart. You should end with the plug on one end and the connector piece attached to the tummy pouch's sensor wires on the other.

If the wire that plugs into the internals comes free of it's little hook you can just slide it back into place.

Next we are going to go back to unscrewing things. If you continue to pull up the fur now you will reach a screw on the left side holding in the faceplate, with a bracket on the right that is slotted into a hold in the shell.

We are going to start with the easier of the two and unscrew the screw and set it to the side. Next is the tricky part. We have to use the pliers to grab onto the bracket and wiggle it free as carefully as you can to try to avoid breaking it. If it does break that's okay, the faceplate will still be held in with screw but the bracket does help make sure it isn't laying funky,

As you can see I mostly got my bracket out in tact, there was one small break but there should be enough there to push it back in when I'm ready. Now we keep rolling up the front of the fur to reach two more brackets, one on each side.

Again, we are going to carefully try to wiggle these out without breaking them if possible. These ones should be much easier than the first one. After you pop them off the second to last thing to do is the ears so roll that fur up as high as it can go!

For the ears we are going to start seam ripping, so grab your seam ripper. This is a bit of a tedious process as you will have to continually pull back the fur to access the stitches as you undo them.

There will be two spots on each ear you have to seam rip, the first goes along the path on the inside part of the piece, while the second goes along the outer path under the ear. This is hard to see until you get it mostly off so wherever you see a seam connecting the ear to the shell rip there.

Once we get both ears undone the last thing is two brackets at the top of the head. Again, we just need to use pliers to carefully wiggle them out without breaking them. These and the two side ones are the most important to keep in tact as they will keep the faceplate on firmly without it sliding around and looking off. I'm sure there is a way you could try to fix them with glue or replace them with a small piece of plastic/cardboard/wood if they did break but it'll work best if we use the originals. I recommend starting with the bracket on the right so that you have an easier time gripping the one on the left which is nestled in the crook of the sensor at the top. The last one is pretty tricky to get out and I almost broke mine which you can see in the photo below. I might try to glue or tape it back together so its more sturdy but its fine for now

And there you have it! your boom is fully skinned and ready to be washed/repaired/customized!

💜 Written by @sweetbabyrayn on tumblr and ko-fi. Posted to @rayn--cloud on tumblr 🐸

Uses a weight 4 yarn with a 4.5 mm hook

🐸 key 🐸

dc - Double Crochet

sc - single crochet

inc - Increase (two stitches in same space)

decr - decrease (skip stitch and crochet one space over)

💜 Basket 💜

Round 1: In a magic circle, dc 8 (8) Add in a stitch marker at the beginning of the row now.

(This stitch marker will line up with the seam on the side of your furby baby)

Round 2: Inc in every stitch (16)

Round 3: (dc, inc) 8 times (24)

Round 4: (2 dc, inc) 8 times (32)

Round 5: (3dc, inc) 8, times (40)

Round 6: dc in each stitch (40)

Round 7: dc 7 chain 10 skipping over the next 8 stitches, then dc 7 (this makes the tail hole)

Round 7.5: dc 4, chain 3 skipping over the next 3 stitches, dc 4, chain 3 skipping over the next 3 stitches, dc 4 (this makes the feet holes) (42)

STOP AND CHECK THE FIT ON YOUR FURBY. IT SHOULD BE SNUG BUT NOT TOO TIGHT

Round 8: dc 3, dcr 1, dc 3, dc in each chain (10 total) dc 3, dcr 1 dc 3 (this is the tail half)

Round 8.5: dc 4, dc in each chain (3 total) dc 4, dc in each chain (3 total), dc 4 (40)

Round 9-10: dc in each stitch (40)

(on row 11 switch to secondary color if desired)

For Ruffles:

Round 11: dc 3, dc 4x in each stitch for 16 stitches (3+10+3), 5dc (place a stitch marker in the first and last dc), dc 4x in each stitch for 14 stitches (2+3+4+3+2), 2dc

For a straight edge:

Round 11: dc 3, place an additional stitch marker in the third stitch. Dc 16, dc 5 and place a stitch marker in the first and last stitch of this grouping. Dc 14, then dc 2 (40)

FOR BOTH OPTIONS:

*The stitch markers indicate where to connect the strap when at desired length.*

Round 12: Dc 3, chain one and turn. 5 sc, chain one and repeat. (5)

*We will be working in rows from here on out to make the strap. Make sure to always chain 1 before turning for each row*

Rounds 13-14: sc 5 (5)

Round 15: sc, inc, dc, inc, dc (7)

Round 16: dc in each stitch (7)

*repeat this until you get a desired length for your shoulder strap*

Ending four rounds:

Round 1: dc, dcr, dc, dcr, dc (5)

Rounds 2-4: dc 5

Attach the strap to the other side

- I do this by turning the basket inside out

- find the first stitch marker on the opposite side and make sure your strap isn't twisted

- slide the hook into the dc where the stitch marker is and pull through.

- slip stitch that loop into the one on the strap.

- repeat this for the next four stitches then tie off with a sturdy knot

- flip basket back the right way out and the seam should be out of the way and you're done!