#furby tutorial

Materials used:

Pipe cleaners/chenille

Mesh tubing

Pom-poms

Blank earring studs

Hot glue/super glue

^ I first cut two pieces of pipe cleaners to roughly the same size, then I twisted the ends into a kind of perpendicular hook (I tried to illustrate it above) so there was something flat to glue onto the earrings.

^ I hot-glued the pipe cleaners to the blank earring studs. Then I glued one end of the mesh tubing around the base, making sure to press it firmly around the entirety of both the pipe cleaner and the earring stud. This left me with excess bits of mesh that I later trimmed.

^ I cut the mesh tubing to align with the top of the pipe cleaner. Then I repeated the process for the other antenna. Then, to finish it off, I hot-glued pom-poms to the opposite ends.

Now we have adjustable & removable antennae!

You can affix them by sticking the earring through the fur and then firmly applying the earring backing from inside. I suppose you could glue the backings on for extra security, but I want mine to be removable.

I ended up enlisting Papillon's help, and the two each got an eyelid transplant. I think it helps a ton with the contrast for my buggy friend here.

Hello to make this jacket you’ll need scissors, a sewing machine, sewing needle, thread, a zipper, drawstring elastic measuring tape, a marker, paper, and three fabrics(I picked two cottons and a kinky fabric for the fur but feel free to use any kind)

I’ll be referring to my fabrics as 1, 2, and 3

We’ll start by drawing and cutting out our pattern, pattern piece one is 3.5 inches wide and 3 inches tall, piece two is 7 inches wide and 3 inches tall, and piece 3 is is 14 inches wide and in the middle at 7 inches it’s 6 inches tall

The sizes were picked by measuring my adult furby(model) Buck so feel free to change it for different sized furbies

Put all there pieces on there fabric and cut you’ll need 2 cuts of pattern piece one from fabrics one, two and three, you’ll need one cut of pattern piece two from fabrics one and two, lastly you’ll need 2 cuts of pattern piece three from fabric 3 DON’T FORGET SEAM ALLOWANCE IT WILL FUCK YOU OVER (🫶🏾I did around 1 inch of seam allowance)

Layer fabric from pattern piece one in the order of one, two, three, just like the picture it’s important( also if it’s heard to tell fabrics one and two have their good sides facing each other)

Then sew all pieces like this

YOU WILL NEED:

- small wire

- small switch

- speaker from furby

STEP ONE

Peel your furby and unplug the speaker (brown clip). Take the speaker out of its cradle

(This furby's speaker looks like it's about to blow lmao but thats a problem for later 🤪)

STEP TWO

Desolder one of the speaker's wires, and then solder the new wire to the same spot on the speaker

STEP THREE

Solder the other end of the two wires to adjacent prongs on the switch. Make sure they're next to each other!!!! One of the prongs on the end should be empty teehee

STEP FOUR

Carve a hole in the furby skeleton to slot the switch into. Make sure it sits nicely when the speaker cradle is inserted, then hot glue it to secure

STEP FIVE

For tools you'll need a pair of pliers, a seam ripper, a phillip's head screwdriver (mine says its a #1 in size), and something to store screws and other small pieces in. I'm using these little mint tins with painter's tape to label where they came from and what they are.

The first step is to unscrew the battery compartment like you normally would to insert batteries. There are two small screws you'll need to undo.

Following that you will have access to the battery compartment where there are 8 small screws that you will need to unscrew next. Be sure to keep these separate from the screws in the battery cover. This will release the piece holding the fur into place. I would go slow here because you will have a bad time if you strip these screws. Be careful when removing the piece as there are sharp points that hurt if you catch your finger on them by mistake.

Here you can see the piece holding the fur into place and the screws I removed. Save these for later when we put everything back in.

Next we are going to carefully start lifting the fur up the shell. Start slowly with this as there are a few steps we need to do to release it. I turn the fur inside out as I pull up. This is going to reveal the tail sensor and the tummy sensor, as well as a piece of stuffing used to fill out the backside.

Next we are going to release the tail sensor without cutting either of the ribbons. This will ensure that we can rehook them up after we are done so that they work! To do this we are going to take the ribbon attached to the shell itself off of the hook it's on. You should be able to wiggle it free with your fingers, but pliers may help too if you find the area too small to grab yourself. Then, just slide the ribbon attached to the tail out from the ribbon attached to the shell and the tail is free!

Next we are going to unplug the tummy sensor. Flip your furby to the other side and gently roll the fur up until you see a red cord coming from the stomach pouch. It should plug onto another cord wrapped around a hook on the left side. From there, you will gently grasp the white box part of the plug in one hand, and the base of the tummy cord/tip of the white box in the other and gently and carefully pull these apart. You should end with the plug on one end and the connector piece attached to the tummy pouch's sensor wires on the other.

If the wire that plugs into the internals comes free of it's little hook you can just slide it back into place.

Next we are going to go back to unscrewing things. If you continue to pull up the fur now you will reach a screw on the left side holding in the faceplate, with a bracket on the right that is slotted into a hold in the shell.

We are going to start with the easier of the two and unscrew the screw and set it to the side. Next is the tricky part. We have to use the pliers to grab onto the bracket and wiggle it free as carefully as you can to try to avoid breaking it. If it does break that's okay, the faceplate will still be held in with screw but the bracket does help make sure it isn't laying funky,

As you can see I mostly got my bracket out in tact, there was one small break but there should be enough there to push it back in when I'm ready. Now we keep rolling up the front of the fur to reach two more brackets, one on each side.

Again, we are going to carefully try to wiggle these out without breaking them if possible. These ones should be much easier than the first one. After you pop them off the second to last thing to do is the ears so roll that fur up as high as it can go!

For the ears we are going to start seam ripping, so grab your seam ripper. This is a bit of a tedious process as you will have to continually pull back the fur to access the stitches as you undo them.

There will be two spots on each ear you have to seam rip, the first goes along the path on the inside part of the piece, while the second goes along the outer path under the ear. This is hard to see until you get it mostly off so wherever you see a seam connecting the ear to the shell rip there.

Once we get both ears undone the last thing is two brackets at the top of the head. Again, we just need to use pliers to carefully wiggle them out without breaking them. These and the two side ones are the most important to keep in tact as they will keep the faceplate on firmly without it sliding around and looking off. I'm sure there is a way you could try to fix them with glue or replace them with a small piece of plastic/cardboard/wood if they did break but it'll work best if we use the originals. I recommend starting with the bracket on the right so that you have an easier time gripping the one on the left which is nestled in the crook of the sensor at the top. The last one is pretty tricky to get out and I almost broke mine which you can see in the photo below. I might try to glue or tape it back together so its more sturdy but its fine for now

And there you have it! your boom is fully skinned and ready to be washed/repaired/customized!

Step 1:

Use the x-acto knife to gently peel up an eyelash foil strip, and be careful not to disturb the lashes. Go slowly and only handle the strip by the sticky foil. You will only need one strip for a pair of lashes!

Step 2:

Place the sticky strip on the lightweight paper, I put it close to the edge because it'll be easier to cut out later. Paint a thin layer of Mod Podge over the base of the lashes on the strip to secure them. This is an important step, there isn't much else keeping them in place, otherwise!

It's hard to wait, but let the glue dry before handling the strip again, I suggest a good 30 minutes or so.

Step 3:

Now that the glue has dried, cut out the paper around the strip and very carefully trim the foil and paper at the sides and underneath the curl of the lashes. Do this slowly, so you don't accidentally snip the lashes, you ONLY want to trim back the paper+foil. This will make them appear more flush with the eyelid when glued in.

Step 4:

Optionally, use a ruler to find the center of the strip and mark it with a marker, I used a Sharpie because it dries instantly. It's possible to eyeball this, but I like them to be as even as possible.

Snip the strip in half, very sharp scissors will prevent the foil from bending or warping. Again, be careful not to snip the lashes themselves! It's ok if you lose one or two in this process, as long as they still look relatively clean and even once split.

Step 5:

Apply a drop of tacky glue to the back of each eyelid and use the Q-tip to spread it in a thin, sticky layer. The eyelids have a little trench you can use as a guide for placement.

You can repeat this process if you wish with the top of the lash strip where it will be applied, as well, to make it stick better. I haven't tried this myself, yet.

Place the base of the lash strip over the tacky glue and press it into position, I use the backs of my thumb nails to hold them firmly while the glue sets. It make take some effort and patience to get them to stay in the curve, just try not to slide them around.

Step 6 (Final):

After the tacky glue has had some time to dry, I like to apply a final coat of Mod Podge over the paper and underside of the eyelids to seal and protect everything. Give this 30 minutes to an hour to fully dry before re-assembling your Furby!

✨ Voila! Fresh new eyelashes! ✨

They won't look exactly like the original, but close enough for me. I'm sure the process can be improved in some ways, so if you have any feedback please share it in comments or tags!