Our friends at @aclamguitars have got a #kickstarter going on right now for their wonderful Windmiller Preamp! This yellow gem is based on the Grampian 636 Preamp that Pete Townsend used to fatten his tone and boost his signal - only 7 days left, head over to @kickstarter to grab one for yourself!! #pedaloftheday #aclam #aclamguitars #windmiller #windmillerpreamp #thewho #petetownshend #preamp #preamps https://www.instagram.com/p/CMQVBomgQ_t/?igshid=aft8ugbi2j8y
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When entering the world of recording, the combinations of microphone, preamp, compressor, and equalizers are pretty much endless. With that in mind, I’m going to be explaining a little bit about microphones and preamps in the $500 to $2000 budget range.Â
When you hit about $1000 for any microphone it’s going to sound great, but at that point it’s mostly about sound preference. In my setup, I chose to go with an AKG C414 XLS (left image) because it has a very balanced sound. In my opinion, it’s not too bright or too dark. It sounds just right, to me. Some people say it has a very flat sound but again, everyone has a different preference when it comes to their sound. Most people go with a Neumann TLM 103 for its nice bright sound and others may go for something very dark like the Mojave MA-200.
A good microphone is nothing without a decent preamp. The Focusrite ISA One (right image) has a very clean signal and it’s only about $500. I love this thing, it has a great clean sound with no distortion. I haven't really seen it in any of the recording studios I’ve been to, most places have some kind of Blue or Neumann mic hooked up to an Avalon or Solid State Logic. You can’t go wrong with Avalon’s beautiful warm sound but every studio has it.Â
So the choice is up to you, do you want the same sound as every other studio or do you want something unique and different? Why not try hooking up a Shure KSM 44 to a Neve 5017? How many other people have that same set up? Nobody knows, but it probably sounds amazing!
Clean vs. Colored Preamplifiers – How Signal Character Shapes Professional Audio
Every professional audio system relies on a Preamplifier as its foundation. The decision between clean and colored Preamplifier designs directly impacts sound character, workflow, and audience perception.
This analysis explores how different Preamplifier philosophies influence modern audio production.
The Strategic Role of a Preamplifier
A Preamplifier determines:
Dynamic response
Tonal balance
Noise behavior
The earliest gain stage often has the greatest sonic influence.
Clean Preamplifiers and Sonic Transparency
Clean Preamplifier units aim for neutrality.
Performance Metrics
Low total harmonic distortion
Flat response across frequencies
Stable operation at high gain
These designs align with broadcast, corporate, and large-scale sound reinforcement needs.
These traits are valued in artistic and performance-driven audio.
Workflow Implications in Professional Environments
Live Production
Clean Preamplifier units simplify mixing and reduce troubleshooting.
Recording and Post-Production
Colored Preamplifier units reduce reliance on plugins and effects.
Cost, Longevity, and System Compatibility
High-quality Preamplifier models from reputable vendors provide:
Better component tolerance
Improved thermal stability
Consistent performance over time
Professional retailers ensure Preamplifier units meet industry standards.
Strategic Selection: One Size Does Not Fit All
Many audio professionals adopt hybrid workflows, using clean Preamplifiers for capture and colored Preamplifiers for enhancement.
 Conclusion
Clean and colored Preamplifier architectures reflect two sound philosophies: transparency and expression. Each plays a strategic role in shaping professional audio outcomes, from controlled live environments to creatively driven productions. The most effective systems often balance both approaches, applying the right Preamplifier at the right stage. Partnering with a professional audio shop adds further value by providing trusted hardware, technical insight, and long-term reliability—factors that matter as much as sound itself.
Lets talk about phono pickups or cartridges if you prefer. The slaves to expense love 4 and 5 figure devices. I stay well in the three figure range.
I avoid moving coil types. No secret there if you go back in my previous stuff. I resisted because it is not just the tiny thing on the end of the tonearm, it is the other accessories. It's like buying a boat. Once you have a boat you need a trailer and a big pickup truck to haul it. Moving coils require either transformers, or outside pre-preamplifiers or stupid high gain in the phono stage. Each of those options has ardent fans who have endless bad things to say about the other options.
Transformers distort. Maybe nice distortion maybe not but signals that are not on the LP get to you.
Pre-preamps add a layer, more layers are generally not good and specifically usually bad.
High gain preamps can be noisy and depending on the method.... Oh and then there is the input impedance problem. As moving coils took over the extreme high end they required far more capacitance in the phono input than the other types. The electronics are voiced to sound better as moving magnets like Audio Technicas react very badly to high capacitance. My ARC preamp came with 600 pF at the phono inputs. I took it off.
And if you read what Mr Sound Smith says about all MC types having high frequency resonance and bad tracking well into the bin with all of them
Dig into it and very clever people who know far more than I do also avoid them. LP mastering engineers, and those two guys in New York who build Moving Iron types. The mastering gurus judge by sound. Sound Smith and Grado are competitors but have very credible things to say that are not good for moving coils.
Moving Iron and Moving Magnet types are very common and range from dirt cheap to holy shit! So If you want to spend big bucks you can. That also means there is a big choice in almost any price range you care to look at.
My most expensive pickup cost in today's money about $600 bucks. My most expensive purchase in the last 5 years was $500. My current favorite was $320. I have several between $120 to $250.
A lot of people like Tube equipment because they can play swap the tubes to get just the sound they like. Chasing Unicorns I think. I do something like that with my collection of phono pickups to be fair. The differences are not subtle.
This is something I'd intended to post last year before the fire, but hadn't gotten around to. The WA12 is a pretty well-regarded budget mic preamp, being largely a clone of an API312 topology for under $500. I'm not a deep expert on the history of API or the 312 circuit, but the broad outline is there. Warm Audio opted to go with a Melcor 1731 style opamp here, instead of copying a later API 2520, but it's socketed and you can change it (if you do, see the note down at the bottom!). To their credit, they chose a vintage 1:8 input transformer ratio, rather than the 1:10 you see on modern APIs. It's a weird choice that the 'default' mode on this preamp (tone switch off) is 1:4, whereas 1:8 (tone switch on) is the more vintage-correct configuration, but whatever. This post references the current black-panel mkII version, which seems to have a slightly different PCB and layout than the orange-panel mkII.
What mystified me about the WA12 is the bizarre input impedance spec. Warm claims that it's 600 ohms, switchable to 150 ohms with the 'tone' switch on. What?? These are ridiculous numbers -- the vast majority of mics want to see a load of 1k or higher, and most mics will suffer pretty severe signal loss with loads under 600 ohms. And as it turns out, these numbers aren't even correct. It's pretty obvious that Warm just quoted the datasheet numbers from their OEM Cinemag input transformer. Cinemag specs their transformers by the expected source impedance on the primary winding, and translates that by the square of the turns ratio to the reflected source impedance on the secondary winding. So unless the secondary of this transformer is loaded with a 10k resistor, 600/150 ohms is NOT the input impedance of the circuit. Transformers don't have a fundamental impedance. They have an impedance ratio, which is the square of the turns ratio. The load you choose for the secondary is what determines the input impedance on the primary.
The stock input impedance I measured on the WA12 mkII is 1.05k, or 600 ohms with the tone switch in. That's actually fine, much more reasonable than the quoted specs. But it still doesn't add up -- if pushing the tone switch doubles the transformer turns ratio from 1:4 to 1:8 (and increases the gain by 6dB), then I should be seeing an impedance 4x lower when it's pushed, not slightly more than half. The other thing I noticed is that the input impedance measured 1.2k with the pad on, regardless of the tone switch position. A ha -- there's a parallel load on the primary side of the transformer that's loading down the input regardless of how the transformer itself is configured (beyond just the 6.81k phantom feed resistors, which have to be there).
Turns out, Warm wired the pad switch so that the pad resistors (a balanced voltage divider of three resistors: 620-140-620 ohms, R35/37/36) are strung across the input at all times -- whether the pad is on or not. The switch just connects the input transformer to either the outside of the network (off), or to the ends of the 140-ohm resistor in the middle (on). There's no need for that. It's worth looking at the way John Hardy wires their pad switches on the M2, since it's basically the same circuit topology. Without any extra parts, and by just changing how the DPDT switch connects to the two series resistors, the Hardy ensures that the pad is completely out of circuit when it's off, and presents no additional load to the mic.
I rewired the pad to according to the Hardy schematic. Boom, the input impedance was then 3.6k with the tone switch off, and 950 ohms with it on. Those numbers actually make sense. But it revealed a new problem -- the input impedance changed dramatically depending on what frequency I used to measure it (I had only used 1kHz up to this point). Specifically, it dropped to under 200 ohms at 10kHz! I felt that was unacceptable, so I started looking at the load on the transformer secondary.
(For our purposes, the load presented by the discrete opamp can be disregarded, since it's quite high, in the megohm range. I did all my measurements with the opamp removed from the socket.)
API 312s have a "zobel" network on the transformer secondary, which is there to damp the transformer's tendency to ring at high frequencies. On the 'canonical' schematic, the zobel network is a 5.1k resistor off the signal line, in series with a 220pf cap to ground. The zobel is in parallel with the secondary's load resistor -- not shown on the canonical schematic but typically found in the vast majority of old 312s -- which is typically 150k. Note that a 150k load on the secondary of a 1:8 transformer would reflect back to the primary as 150k/8^2 = 2.34k, or 150k/4^2 = 9.37k for 1:4! And in fact, 150k is what the WA12 mkII has (R13). So why was my input impedance still so much lower? The zobel network.
Turns out, Warm has a totally insane zobel network of 910 ohms (R14) in series with a 1.5nF (1500pf) capacitor (C19). That's not a zobel, that's just a straight up dump of treble frequencies. The zobel's turnover is so low that it's affecting the impedance across the entire audio band. It's honestly probably the single biggest factor in the "dark" sound of this preamp, and it's way worse with the tone switch in -- maybe that's why they called it a "tone" switch instead of an impedance switch or gain switch. The extreme values are just not necessary to get the (pretty decent) input transformer to behave.
I experimented extensively to find out what the optimal zobel network actually is for the WA12 mkII, and came up with 4.99k in series with 330pf. That's pretty similar to the canonical API spec. In fact, if there were no tone switch and this transformer could only be used at 1:8, the API values of 5.1k-220pf would be ideal. But the transformer performs significantly worse at 1:4 (again, odd that this is the default mode here), so something a little heavier was necessary. I also ended up reducing the load resistor from 150k to 100k, which helped damp ringing quite a bit. After these changes, there's near perfect square-wave performance in 1:8 (tone in) with a gentle roll-off above 20kHz and no peaking at all. At 1:4 (tone out), there's about 10% overshoot on square waves, but no ringing, and an innocuous +2dB peak at 27kHz that just adds a little bit of 'air' to the sound.
Now, the input impedance is 3.5k @ 1:4 (tone out) up to the top octave, where it drops to about 3k. At 1:8 (tone in), it's 1.05k and drops to 650 ohms at 20kHz. With the pad in, it's 1.2k in all modes and at all frequencies. Very nice! I now basically always leave the tone switch in, using the vintage-correct 1:8 input ratio, which has the best frequency and time-domain response, plus better SNR. If I want a little bit of extra 'air' in exchange for slightly worse time-domain performance and lower SNR, I turn the tone switch off and use 1:4.
If you're going to the trouble of doing this work (really just moving two resistors and replacing two other resistors and one capacitor), it's also a good idea to hand-match a new pair of phantom feed resistors for best common-mode noise rejection. I found the stock 6.8k parts in the WA12 mkII to be about 1.2% apart from each other, when the IEC phantom specification says that it should be less than 0.3%. I make it a habit to match pairs of 6.81k metal film resistors to within 1 ohm (<0.03%) when I'm working on mic preamps. No need to buy parts at those tolerances -- the absolute value isn't important, just find any two in a pile that are super close to each other in value.
Notes on changing the opamp
The stock Warm X1731 is fine. It really is! You're almost certainly not going to hear a difference by changing it to something else, except when driven into clipping or at the extremes of treble response. That said, I found something totally bizarre when I dropped a CA0252 opamp into the WA12. C21, the phase compensation capacitor in the opamp's feedback loop, is 12pf. 12pf is not doing anything in this circuit. The API 312 uses 120pf, 10x higher. I have no idea whether this was a board-stuffing error, a CAD/schematic typo that snuck into the BOM, or just a stupid design choice. It doesn't really pose problems with the stock 1731-style opamp, probably because that opamp has much more limited bandwidth than a 2520. But if you drop a 2520 into the circuit, you will get a huge peak of ultrasonic noise around 90kHz. This is enough to screw up your metering if you're recording at 96kHz or 192kHz ("why is my meter reading -30dBFS if I can't hear anything?"). It affects noise all the way down into the audible range, so you will also hear more background hiss with a 2520 opamp than the stock 1731, even if you can't hear the main problem up at 90kHz. The solution, of course, is just to change C21 to the API value of 120pf. You should do that anyway, even if you're not planning to change the opamp.
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There are issues with the basic idea of tubes. They are strange and familiar as the basic operation is easy to visualize. Transistors are just lumps of metallic stuff. The accepted truth that different production runs, brands and age of the same type will sound different is really annoying.
Bottom line is I like the sound. Is it real? Is it accurate? A choice between a good solid state preamp and a tube unit is a conundrum. I have both and voted for the vacuum. I have had my tuber for a looong time. I have the opposite opinion of power amplifiers.
Yet I still check the ads. Right now there are two candidates within an hours drive of my house. One is pure tube, the other a tube FET hybrid. They are roughly the same vintage which explains the price being reachable to me.
One is a CJ PV11 and has 6 tubes of three different types including some 12AX7s. "Each one selected for the precise properties required in the circuit location." That is rather annoying, but I accept it may help. It makes replacement just that more complicated as you can get bad tubes when you order them. Needing extras can get expensive.
Also I have a certain disdain for 12AX7 tubes as they are really common in the low end preamp designs. Nothing rational about that but there you are.
The other is the Audio Research SP-9 and has 2 tubes of the same 6922 type and is hybrid with FETs. BUT that had three versions. The first being described as not as good as the second and the third. The local one is probably the mk1. For a few hundred more there is a mk3 in the states. AR is my favorite brand.
They are of similar vintage and were compared in the day with each other in magazines (gasp printed on paper!). Not too different.
They push different buttons as one advertises no global feedback. That is a thing in some peoples audio religion. The other would be simple to maintain.
This exposes the fact that such choices are emotional. I like this brand or that in the same way I prefer a sporty car over a family transportation appliance. Both get you somewhere sometime.
There is no better or best just different and liking this more than that. If I hear more of something like tiny details then OK that may be a bit better. I have been fooled by seductive textures that were just distortion.
There is also the small potential of getting a "deal". If someone is dumping a device on the market because they upgraded then I could benefit. Or you may at least only not lose any money. The nice thing about old stuff is it holds value. You can usually sell it on for the same money.
I have thought about asking the guy about the version and for a discount if it is mk1, but will it be better than the one I have? I have to spend the money to find out. Then I would have to sell my current one.
I am trying to stay cheap here in a relative way.
This dialog with myself goes on and on. I am glad I have not won the lottery as I would be jumping on this stuff.