#papermodel

[Silent Hill]

Made from paper for AGDQ2024

Game: Slow Damage

Free template in my ko-fi shop:

Tutorial:

pixel art Lower Decks papercraft templates, thanks to my minecraft skin making skills and pixel papercraft's minecraft character generator. Skin textures for use in the actual game below the cut.

I'll be posting more photos of these as i print and assemble them. I actually have to do a test print--my printer is an old office printer that doesn't make super contrasty, saturated images, and i'm worried it will whitewash mariner and rutherford if i don't edit the color values a bit.

Commission - gangya Papercraft

Commission info - https://posty.pe/274d71

[Download]

Name - Commission - gangya

Creator - zxc6713

Original author - gangya

Difficulty - Normal, Hard(Jacket part)

Pages(with stand) - 9

Pieces(with stand) - 89

Length(with stand) - 184mm

Width(with stand) - 135mm

Depth(with stand) - 245mm

Caution - Supplies: Scissors, knives (cutters or art knives), tweezers, toothpicks (thin, pointed tools such as ), woodworking glue, instantaneous adhesive (in my case, I use lock tights), wire (for stands)

There is no manual, but it is produced by referring to the pdo file. It has more advantages than the manual because you can see the parts you want in many directions through the 3d screen. The pdo file should be opened using a program called Pepakura Viewer (it's never like a virus program!).

It's a work that includes thin parts. It is recommended to fold the grass first before cutting because the drawing may break while folding the grass surface due to its thin shape. As a similar example, you can use this method even if it is not thin but the glue surface is thin and it is difficult to fold.

If the model does not stand, please attach it to the enclosed stand.

Thin parts are included (mainly the tail) so please use a thin, pointed tool such as a toothpick. 

There is a cross-sectional corner without any glue or cotton. Please make it while looking at the screen of Pepakura carefully.

주의사항

준비물 : 가위, 칼(커터칼 or 아트나이프), 핀셋, 이쑤시개(와 같이 가늘고 끝이 뾰족한 도구), 목공풀, 순간접착제(제 경우엔 록타이트를 사용합니다.), 철사(스탠드용)

설명서가 없는 대신 pdo파일을 참고하여 제작합니다. 3d화면을 통해 여러 방향으로 원하는 부분을 볼 수 있기 때문에 설명서 보다 장점이 많습니다. pdo파일은 Pepakura Viewer(바이러스 프로그램 같은 게 절대 아니니 안심!)라는 프로그램을 사용하여 열어야 합니다.

얇은 부품이 포함 된 작품입니다. 가느다란 형태로 인해 풀칠면을 접으시다가 도면이 끊어 질 수 있으니 자르기 전에 먼저 풀칠면을 접으신 다음에 자르는 것을 추천합니다. 비슷한 예시로 얇진 않지만 풀칠면이 얇아 접기 힘든 경우에도 이와 같은 방법을 사용하시면 됩니다.

모델이 자립 하질 않는다면 함께 동봉된 스탠드에 붙여주세요. 

얇은 부품이 포함 되어 있으니(주로 꼬리) 이쑤시개와 같은 가늘고 끝이 뾰족한 도구를 사용해 주시기 바랍니다. 

Hello! Many are now at confusion, yes... Foxy in what form it was - no longer exists, it will be redone in a new way. But in order not to throw away the finished parts, after I spent a lot of time on them, I decided to pay tribute and make the one who actually inspired me - Philomela a mechanical bird.

I will immediately warn you that some of the art or drawings are NOT mine and are used only for an example and a general understanding of what I am doing.

More recently, I discovered an expensive, but very effective method. Paper paste (or papier mache) - is finely cut paper impregnated with a water-based adhesive and then kneaded until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

This paste can be used to fill cavities, molds - after hot drying (in my case on a table lamp), this mixture becomes so hard that I can now process it with a file.

What I did with this hand, before this, clamp it between a vise and start processing part of the joint with a file. I did this trying to make a strong connection between the parts. I inserted the spire, made both holes and covered it completely with paste, let it dry a little, took out the spire and left it to dry completely.

After I processed each part of the arm and slightly improved the connecting part (later I also covered it with paste and dried it), I got a very strong connection.

Now I'm looking for fill shapes to speed up the creation of models and parts for them.

There is a figure less than 20 cm in size, you want to make it close to the original, even parts of it... and you do it.

I couldn’t make the details identical, I had to cheat and simplify, but keep the same functionality.

Instead of a separate movable part to which part of the retractable leg is attached, it has become part of the entire leg.

* First, I made the main part itself, a tube with a cutout and a moving part.

* I picked up a tube of a suitable diameter, made a cut along, substituted a half of a thin tube from the side and fixed it. Repeated the same on the other side.

* Part of the leg slides along the edges of these tubes, at the bottom the edges of these tubes are clogged, and thanks to the cutout in the leg, part of the leg bends and the movable part slides up along the tubes.

I couldn't do it without papier mache! Important parts are made using this technique.

These are the details of the knee. I decided to slightly deviate from the original and try something new.

Was it necessary? No. Why I did this? Because I can.

Half of the gear as the base for the knee and the small gear moves with the tilt of the leg.

On the left - this is what I could limit myself to, and on the right - this is what I ended up with:

Here is a little more detail, it has a very complex mechanism in the reed. I decided to do something similar but not quite, in view of the complexity of the detail itself.

That's how I started to gradually create this mechanism:

And finally, what the leg itself looks like (so far without a foot)

This is all I can show for now. Yes, I rarely make posts, it's still my hobby, I don't get paid for it)

There is not always time for this, I had an operation last month and put a prosthesis on the hip joint, but everything is already fine with me and so far I walk with crutches.