Ā biggest-gaudiest-patronuses: fightthemane: ...
Do you have cites on the āloosely wovenā? I mostly know early medieval Europe, but what Iāve learned looking at actual stitch counts is that preindustrial cloth was often more *tightly* woven (and with better yarn) because if youāre putting that much time in, you might as well do it to last. Itās often hard to sew medieval reproductions with cheap modern cloth because the medieval cloth was so un-ravelley it *didnāt need hems*.
In Greece, which is what the original post was talking about, excavated Bronze Age textiles range from 5/10 to 16/40 threads/cm (warp/weft), with most hovering around 10-18 threads/cm. Extant textiles from the Classical era are more uniform, mostly 14/26 threads/cm. The preponderance of the extant textile fragments from Greece are balanced tabbies in linen, although whether we find plant fiber fabric or animal fiber fabric tends to have more to do with preservation conditions than with what was actually worn. We know from the written record that Greeks wore quite a bit of wool. What little wool fabric we have from Greece tends to be a bit finer and more commonly a twill weave (this is consistent across Europe -- starting in the Bronze Age, bast fibers get woven as tabbies, wool as twills).
A linen fabric at 14/26 threads/cm is not losely woven, but itās not tightly woven either. From my own weavings I can tell you that you will definitely struggle with ravelling when you cut it. It does not handle like a modern shirting cotton. You would have less trouble with ravelling if itās wool, because wool is grippy, but smooth bast fibers will slip.
A lot of what I weave is reproductions of textiles from Scandinavia, late Bronze Age on. Almost all of what we have from Scandinavia is wool (due to the preservation conditions; they definitely wore bast fibers as well), and at least once we hit the Iron Age, it tends to be denser than what is found farther south, presumably for warmth. A lot of it is in the high 20s/low 30s per cm. It still ravels a bit when I cut it if I havenāt fulled it, but not worse than modern fabrics (modern wools range from high 10s to mid 30s per cm, or at least thatās what I count with a ruler and my fabric stash).
But one thing to remember when it comes to pre-industrial wool cloth was that it was very commonly fulled, which is a finishing processes that leaves the fabric slightly felted. A densely woven fulled woolen fabric will absolutely not ravel, and will wear a lot longer and harder than any modern fabric. However, you canāt full bast fibers, so the chitons and such of the Mediterranean, which were almost always linen, not going to behave the same way as an early Medeival dress from Northern Europe.
Data from Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 400, edited by Margarita Gleba and Ulla Mannering