#lowercity

In previous posts, I covered the medieval cities of Gradec and Kaptol. In this final segment, I focus on some newer editions to Zagreb.

In the 1800s, Zagreb decided to expand with a slew of new building. While some of this happened to the north, it gets kind of challenging to build on mountains, so much of this occurred to the flat(er) south. This area is often called the “Lower” or “New City”, characterized by grandiose stone buildings and national projects.  From where we last ended (Zagreb Cathedral), you head south and wander into Zagreb’s main square,  Ban Jelačić Square. This is a very popular area, with lots of shopping, entertainment, and restaurants. The centerpiece of the square is a statue of  Ban Jelačić, a Croatian national hero who, during the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, lobbied for Croatia to be an equal part of the Empire rather than supplicants. He was also known as a fierce fighter. When Croatia was part of Communist Yugoslavia, the authorities took down the statue but Croatians restored it upon independence.

Turn west and head down Ilica Street (with all the trams) to see one of Zagreb’s main, historic shopping streets. As you walk down it, stop in Kraš, Zagreb’s famous chocolate company. They both sell ‘fancy’ chocolate (bon-bons, truffles, etc.) as well as regular bars. Or go to Vincek Slastičarnica, a cafe with homemade ice cream and pastries. I went to both of these places and it was fabulous! No pictures though because I immediately ate whatever I bought...

Head south from Ilica Street and you get to the lovely Zagreb National Theatre, which was built as a theatre for the people of Croatia, during the time of national arts movements. 

Continue heading south and you find some lovely buildings and the Croatian National Archive (white building on the left).

Continue south for one more street and you reach the Botanical Gardens which was unfortunately closed at the time I was there. Head east from the Gardens to find the Zagreb Central train station, Glavni Kolodvor. It is a grand station both inside and out, partially because it was one of the main stops of the Orient Express, on the way to Istanbul. While the Orient Express is long over, you can still catch trains to other areas of South-Eastern Europe or head all the way to Austria or Munich.

From Central Station head north again and walk through the main park lined avenue in Zagreb. Since city planners had a fairly blank slate in this (former) farmland, they planned two grand park avenues, one (at the National Theatre) and the other running parallel with multiple museums and other institutions.

Once you walk all the way down, you end back up at Zagreb’s Main Square with a famous meeting clock (similar to the Penn Station clock in NYC).