#longberry

カメルーン　Cameroon

カメルーンのアラビカです。カメルーンといえばCAPLAMI生産者組合のジャバ・ロングベリーが日本ではポピュラーですが、あまりアラビカのスタンダードは入ってきていません。主にイタリア、ドイツ、フランスの欧州に輸出されているようです。同じく生産全体の８０％を占めるロブスタもあまり見かけませんねぇ。

意外ととカメルーンのコーヒーは歴史が古くて、逆にそれがための農地の疲弊、機材の老朽化が進んで徐々に生産量が減りつつあるのだそうです。ちょっと古いJETROさんの資料によりますと国としてもそのリハビリテーションを進めているところだそうで、ロブスタについては高地の栽培に切り替えて苦味を抑えた豆にし、アラビカについては「アフリカのブルーマウンテン」的ブランド化を進めるという方針、と。

Not to be confused with the "Finca San Jose" from El Salvador, this new coffee comes from Fincas Mierisch, whom we have been working with for more than 4 years. Some of you might recall that we had Finca San Jose Javanica last year. For those who have tried brewing this coffee, you would have noticed that the coffee beans are elongated, which looks rather different from other varietals which are generally rounder.  There is little information of this varietal except that it is related to the Typica and Geisha varietals due to its elongated bean shape. If you are interested to read more about Javanica, Erwin has a very interesting story about how this coffee came about to its family farms.

We first came across the Javanica varietal when we cupped it at the lab of Fincas Mierisch a few years back. Since then, we have been a fan of this unique varietal and have bought this varietal from both Finca Limoncillo and Finca San Jose. Last year, we cupped this sample labeled as Longberry Javanica. We were curious about the "Longberry" element, so we asked our friend, Erwin Mierisch, about the background of this Longberry Javanica against what we have always been buying (Javanica).

This is a summarised version of the background information from Erwin himself:

"There are generic differences in Javas. As we have gotten to know this varietal throughout the years, we have noticed several different mutations within the variety itself.  We have taken the time to separate each difference that we noticed and experiment with them.

We first started with the regular Java. With this general variety we have noticed that naturally, there are changes in the structure of the tree and analyses were done to see if these changes also occurs in the cup.

We first started separating all the trees that look structurally more and more like a typical Java and then segregated them and obtain what we'd like to call a purer variety. Since we do not have scientific certification for these procedures we just call them the name we see fit.  We were very proud with our first accomplishment so we called this first generation segregation as JAVANICA. 

As time passed and we have become more familiar with this new segregation, we noticed further differences and with cup trials we noticed that the cup improves with new changes in the tree variety structure.  We also noticed other changes that do not improve the cup profile so we tend to eliminate this “generation” from the coffee field of the JAVANICA (this improves the coffee that we produce from that particular plot year after year).

We took a positive mutation and segregated it to obtain what it would be a third generation of the Javanica and we are now calling Longberry Javanica. As you look through the green coffee it will have a greater percentage of “longberry type beans.” The cup caracteristics for longberry Javanica is that it exhibits more citric acidity and jasmine profile so the overall cup has more defined and elegant acidity."

We are fortunate to have the secured some of this 3rd generation Longberry Javanica from Finca San Jose. The lot we have bought is pulped natural processed. This processing method enhances the sweetness in the cup and really elevates the lushness of the mouthfeel while preserving its more delicate notes. As an espresso, there is an interesting array of tropical fruit notes, jasmine undertones as well as a milk tea finish. Its syrupy mouthfeel is truly decadent. Farm: Finca San Jose Producer: Mierisch Family Community: Lipululo Region: Jinotega, Nicaragua Farm Manager: Jesus Antonio Cruz Varietal: Longberry Javanica Altitude: 1275-1400m asl Processing: De-pulped with some mucilage left on the parchment then and dried on African beds