#guimpe

Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 30, vol. 36, 26 juillet 1914, Paris. Coton à Broder C-B "A La Croix" Cartier-Bresson. 1, 2, 4. Guimpe avec col, en mosaïque de dentelle et de broderie. 3. Parements assortis. 5. Mouchoir en madère. La toilette élégante des enfants : robes, tabliers et bavoirs. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

Dramatic Diamond: Sew Chic’s Imperial Jacket

Sew Chic offers modern patterns inspired by vintage looks. Thus, you get modern pattern sizing and more attention to the cut and the details. Many eras had shorter, shaped jackets--some of my favorites are from the 1930s, and you can see Spencer jackets in all the Jane Austen movies. Here we have one designed to enhance an hourglass figure.

This pattern comes with several options including a double-breasted vest or jacket with or without a draped collar. The front of the jacket has modified princess seams which should make it easier to fit, and the back has multiple darts. The sleeves are two-piece, but there are no pockets despite the flaps. So lots of options, but the jacket with the collar that you see up top has the loveliest and most dramatic of lines. A perfect evening look. The vest done without the collar would be good for a workday precisely because it tones down the drama.

You might wear the jacket alone, no blouse, over a long skirt for daring look. But if you would rather not show that much skin, you need to be careful to choose something to harmonize with the diamond shape of the neckline and the drape of the collar. A very fine sweater might work, but I think bringing the guimpe back to life might work best. The guimpe was a sheer, fitted, short blouse out of lace or net, often with a high collar that hugged the neck, worn in the 1910s underneath dresses in order to deal with very revealing necklines. Being sheer, it is flirty all the same.

The fabrics recommended include taffeta and shantung, brocades, all very fancy, or wools like boucle. This looks like a nice velveteen in a rich red. And the 3 large buttons would need to be chosen wisely to enhance whatever fabric you settle on.

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 24 Août 1884, 13e Année, No. 660

Artist: E. Cheffer; Printer: Auguste Godchaux & Cie; Paris

Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 24 février 1884, 13e annee, No. 634

Print maker: A. Chaillot; Printer: Auguste Godchaux & Cie; Paris

Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 24 juin 1883, 12e annee, No. 599

Artist: P. Deferneville; Printer: Auguste Godchaux & Cie; Paris

Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 22 juillet 1883, 12e annee, No. 603

Artist: P. Deferneville; Printer: Auguste Godchaux & Cie; Paris

Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands