#eucla

Roadgames Richard Franklin. 1981

Ruins Old Telegraph Station, Eucla, West Australia 6443, Australia See in map

24 degrees today and Martine had a jumper on!

With absolutely no choice of where to stay to break the journey along the Nullarbor, we were in the only Motel for miles.These are finely honed establishments, designed to provide the absolute basic requirements for shelter and amenities. Our 'cell' was the equivalent to a room in the purple palace but tastefully built in breeze block, a bathroom slightly on the public convenience spectrum, with the room's main door leading out onto an open verandah and curiously with a single allotted chair placed menacingly outside to the right of the door as though required by security; a pattern repeated the length of the verandah. Well, it was only one night, and we had a long 320 mile journey ahead of us, with possible weather problems on the Eyrie Highway.

Balladonia was remote in the extreme and is used as a stop over for tourists and truckies alike. Pleasant but utilitarian. The location was originally chosen by two brothers, William and Stephen Ponton who, in 1873 bought a lease on 20,000 acres pastoral land. Overtime this grew to 300,000 acres exporting wool. They built a hotel close to the telegraph office, which was then moved in 1962 to its current position. Similar to an oasis in the desert, it is the only place for miles for rest, fuel, and a meal. We awoke to the airplane like roar of the massive road trains,; 2, 3 or 4 sections long, passing just 50 metres away from our 'cell'. Destination, Norseman westerly, or Eucla to the east.

We filled the Toyota up to the brim and set off down Highway 1 going east. The first item of note was a road sign indicating there was space allocated alongside the extremely remote road for the Royal Fying Doctor Service. A procedure repeated at 4 more locations along our route today. Then, a reasonably short distance further on, on a slight left hand bend, we entered the long stretch of the Nullarbor Plain, 90 miles of absolute straight road, the longest completely straight road in Australia. No deviation at all. We sat in cruise mode and relaxed. We shared our journey mainly with road trains and caravans, but for most of the time, the road would be empty. Scrub, both sides, few trees and despite the warnings of emu, kangaroos and camels, the score was emu 0, kangaroos 0, camels 0. There was a buzzard. Lunch came at an unlikely named spot called Cocklebiddy, which came complete with the next hole on the Nullarbor golf course. While there was a warning regarding the presence of snake, they, along with their animal colleagues, did not make an appearance. Enjoying a coffee in the roadhouse after lunch, we found ourselves talking to the very young staff, 2 German girls and one boy who are working to pay for their travels before university in September. Earning quite well, because we are in the middle of nowhere. I may have mentioned the war, but I think I got away with it.

We stopped briefly at a lookout point, the world stretching before us in the direction of the ocean, with a horizon some 60km south of us. The bush country before us held few hiding places, and yet, even with binoculars, there were no animals to be seen.

After some 6 hours driving, we pulled into the Eucla Motel, our home for the next two nights. Our executive room has distant views over the ocean and is quite an improvement on our 'cell' in Balladonia, although still has one chair outside.

Odd thing about the time of day. There appears to be a debate about what time it actually is. We have to wind the clocks forward by 45mins when we cross the State border into Southern Australia a few miles east of here. Some people's phones have incremented, and others have not. However, although the official line might be the State line is the defining position, the Motel appears of the opinion that the update applies here. ??? The bar shuts at 8, so its best to humour them.

ps. Just been watching Gavin and Stacey

As we left Fowlers Bay behind it was finally time to head into the desert, the real one, the Nullarbor. This legendary drive was once an experience of a lifetime where life itself was at risk for the person willing to embark in such a journey. Nowadays it has become a little more of a tourist attraction and an essential link for the West of Australia. This 1256 km long road is crossing one of the…

Mis amigos dicen que el 2005 corre por mis venas.

💀☠💜🖤

Still Standing, by JohnCarlisle