[faeryaester] - I just realised I should've just send an ask lol
From my previous reply, I'm actually curious about the differences between pro-mode and actual cameras, given that the adjustments available on pro-mode are quite similar to the professional cameras, but I believe the end result of smartphones' images are nowhere near professional cameras. I use Samsung Galaxy S21+, and the best end-product I've achieved using pro-mode would be when I attended a concert. My seat was on the second floor and quite far from the main stage, but it wasn't that bad, but I believe this is one of the main issues that could be easily tackled by professional cameras.
So I am genuinely curious and sorry if you've mentioned any of these before.
Q1: When you are capturing the images, would the zooming affect the overall quality of the captured images? And how far would you usually zoom in to capture most of your images? Do you usually like set a limit on zooming to get the best result of the images?
Q2: Do you usually change your seats when capturing these images? I noticed the different angles and how you usually determine the seat placement because sometimes your position when taking the pictures plays a huge role in capturing the best angle+moment, so I'm curious about this
Q3: When a player is reaching a championship point, do you usually stick to the settings and just continuously capture the moment, or do you have different settings to capture these important moments since they usually end quite fast.
Thank you in advance. I just love reading your post and explanations about the technicalities behind this. 🧡 Have a nice day as well!
p/s: Here's the link to see my amateur shots from the concert I mentioned before 😂 (the images only had minor adjustments on mobile lightroom; curves, vibrance, shadows, sharpening, etc.); https://www.tumblr.com/risusagi/736974177639268352/15-december-2023-a-small-sharing-of-mine-i?source=share
Hi @faeryaester! Thanks so much for the ask (and your response to my photography post), these are great questions!
Let me start with your general question about phone vs actual cameras, shooting on similar settings. I actually got curious about this and did an experiment while at this year's AO. Here is Casper Ruud in the "trophy pose" position (playing against Ramos-Vinolas in R1):
The image on the left was taken with the iPhone 15 Pro Max using the 120mm telephoto lens (f/2.8 aperture, shutter speed = 1/990, auto white balance, ISO 50). The image on the right was taken with my Canon R3 and 70-200mm zoom lens operating at 140mm (also f/2.8 aperture, shutter speed = 1/1000, cloudy white balance, ISO 100). So, very similar settings--and it's clear that the picture on the right is way better. Now, the R3 is the best mirrorless camera that Canon makes, but I think this would be the case even if I were using a mid-range or budget DSLR/mirrorless camera.
The reason for that is ... well, it's a bit of everything, really. Taking a picture involves (1) a lens focusing on the subject and letting in light, (2) that light being caught by a sensor, which turns it into data, and (3) a computer processing that data into an RGB image (and also, at the same time, reading what the sensor is "seeing" and directing the lens in step (1) to seek out and focus in on the subject).At every step in this process, real cameras beat out phone cameras. The phone camera lens might be f/2.8 (at least that's what it's advertised as), but let's be real, it's the size of a button and it's not competing with a lens that's the size of a soup can, or a lens the size of a can of tennis balls (my 70-200mm is actually a fair bit larger than that). Re: (2), the phone camera's sensor might be advertised as however many megapixels (12MP for my iPhone's 120mm telephoto), but because its sensor is tiny compared a real camera's sensor, it just isn't going to receive as much light for turning into data, and so you aren't really getting the advertised resolution.
(3), the computing power/software, is where phone cameras have made by far the largest strides--hence, good auto color-balancing and exposure-level determination, often much better than in actual cameras. But I still don't think they're as fast/powerful at this computational process as mid-range or professional cameras are (and it's a complex process)--one reason being, a phone has to make room for many other things in its programming, whereas a camera, well, it only needs to camera (lol).
So, on all fronts, phone cameras are disadvantaged versus real cameras, mainly by the need to be compact. For their size they're still incredible; they're just not quite up (yet) to the very specific demands of long-range and/or action photography.
Now onto your more specific questions:
Q1: Will zooming in affect image quality. On my camera setup, no. I use a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, which, unlike many zoom lenses, retains its max aperture of f/2.8 throughout its optical range. So even when shooting at 200mm, which is what I stick to unless my subject is very close to me (like Casper in that service toss picture above), my lens can let in all that light and save me from having to increase my ISO too much at night or indoors.
The only thing that's affected by me shooting at 200mm is, if the subject is far away, like I'm behind the baseline and they're on the far end of the court, I won't get that nice background-blurring effect ("bokeh") that you see in the Casper picture. There will be less separation of the subject from the background, in other words. I'll also have to crop the image to get something that looks nice, because as you'll see below (left-hand image), at 200mm, if I'm shooting a player at the far end of the court, they look quite small. So the final, cropped image won't have as many pixels as if I'd had, say, a 400mm lens and could fill the frame with my player.
(400mm, btw, is what pro sports photographers typically work with, and they're almost always much closer to the subject as well. That's how they get those extreme close-ups that look so amazing with the background blurred behind the player.)
Left: Uncropped image of Jannik Sinner, shot at 200mm from across the length of the court (I was in the fifth row of the stands in the ad corner on Rublev's side of the court). Right: This is about how large Jannik would look in an uncropped image if I were using a 400mm lens. Notice there is less of a bokeh/shallow depth-of-field effect in this than in the Canon picture of Casper above.
That's how it is for my setup. Now, on a phone camera, or on a smaller digital camera, if you zoom in and in on something, at some point you will see a clear reduction in quality. That's coming from two things. One, I mentioned that most zoom lenses see their max aperture decrease as they zoom in: that of course impacts the lens's light-gathering ability, necessitating a higher ISO that in turn results in an image with more noise. The other thing that's happening is that, if you're zooming in from really far away, and/or on something really small, you will at some point have maxed out your lens's optical range. Beyond that point, if the camera is still zooming in, it's performing what's called a digital as opposed to optical zoom: it's basically cropping the picture for you.
An example of an optical vs digital zoom. Left: Novak Djokovic serving at the 2022 Rome Masters, captured at 77mm, the max focal length of my iPhone 13's camera system. Right: Novak on the far end of the court, captured using a digital zoom (equivalent to 314mm), clearly smushier/grainier. (Also, clearly unhappy. No, he is not questioning his life choices. He's just bored waiting for a fire alarm that's gone off in the middle of his match to be turned off.)
In that scenario, you're just magnifying the image you would've gotten with your max focal range; you're literally losing pixels. (For that reason, I personally never use digital zoom when using a phone or smaller camera; I keep it at its max focal range and crop the image myself afterwards if I want.)
Q2: Do I move around to take photos. As a mere spectator, not a pro with a media credential (alas), I'm confined to one seat during a match (or session). But this AO I did make an effort to choose seats located in various spots around the court for different sessions, so that I could shoot from different vantages. You're absolutely right that this makes a big difference for capturing various tennis moments (good eye!)--this is something I'll be discussing in detail in a future post.
Q3: Do I have different settings for capturing important moments like championship point. Not really: throughout a match I'll be shooting at the same drive speed, continuous high, meaning 30 frames per second for my camera. I stick to this even when shooting players between points or at changeovers--really so that I won't run the risk of forgetting to change it back and potentially missing good shots; but it's also helpful because players blink, they don't always stand in a way that looks good in a photo, etc. It's always good to have lots of shots to choose from.
What I will want to do differently on break/set/match/championship points is capture the player's reaction, as opposed to whatever they're doing during the point. No one I show a picture of, say, a forehand will know which point it came from, unless I tell them. For reaction pics, I have to be ready for the point to end at any moment; that means following the point from first to last, tracking the player about to win. Come to think of it, I don't think I've watched a single match point live since really getting into this photography business--but I figure I can just watch the replay later, lol. Getting that shot matters more to me.
Taylor Fritz reacts to winning Indian Wells (2022, vs. Nadal) | Canon 1DX Mark III + EF 70-200mm f/2.8 + 2x extender
Thanks again for the ask--and for reading my post on camera settings! ! hope these answers were interesting/helpful, and if you've got any follow-up q's to these, or other asks, happy to answer these anytime 🤗