#cabochard

US Vogue June 1963

Grès Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1963 Collection Antonia Boekesteijn in a jade silk crepe dress adorned with a vibrant pink. Another Grès beauty newsletter: Cabochard bath oil, a sublime and beloved fragrance.

Grès Collection Haute Couture Printemps/Été 1963 Antonia Boekesteijn dans une robe, en crêpe de soie jade parée d'un rose vif.  Autre bulletin beauté de Grès : L'huile de bain Cabochard, un parfum sublime et adoré.

For the past couple of years, I've been collecting perfumes. I like the scents and stories they can create. Someone even said that "perfume is poetry you can wear". This hobby has crossed over into my creative work as a fanfic writer and for a while I've been assigning my characters perfumes I think would fit them. I've got a big spread sheet, but I'll give a couple perfumes for each character I've thought of. I'll break this up into parts, as well, doing it character by character, and start with Agent Carter. The reason why I created my fanfic series. And let's start with Peggy, herself.

A long time ago, Besamé had an Agent Carter themed cosmetic line that included a perfume. It's discontinued, but I remember the notes were described as bergamot, rose, and amber. Based off that, I think L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci is a close fit. Debuting in 1948, L'Air du Temps is a floral-spicy scent with notes of jasmine, carnation, rose, iris, and sandalwood. It's very classy and sparkling.

My second perfume for Peggy is En Avion by Caron. Created in the 1932, En Avion is a floral-spicy scent with notes of orange, neroli, lilac, jasmine, opoponax, and amber, and inspired by Hélène Boucher, a French pilot who set several speed records in the 1920s. It's a portrait of contradictions - luminous and spicy, but cool and mossy. Something sophisticated, complex, and adventurous is ideal for Peggy.

Next up, my third perfume, I think Peggy would at least get a good laugh from Cabochard by Grès. Why? Because Cabochard means "stubborn" or "headstrong" in French. It's a leathery chypre released in 1959 for the Parisian fashion house, Madame Grès, who was famed for her dresses inspired by Grecian statues. While Madame Grès didn't personally like the fregrance, she knew it was a hit with her customers. it has notes of bergamot, mandarin orange, galbanum, ylang ylang, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, clove, oakmoss, tobacco, musk iris, sandalwood, vetiver, leather, castoreum, patchouli, and labdanum. The original version (because older scents get reformulated all the time) was described as being a softer version of Bandit from Robert Piguit. I don't imagine Peggy wearing this one a lot - probably for an evening out or when she wants to scare somebody. The original is a pretty intimidating scent what with the smoky leather and green notes hiding a floral heart.

#1. Robert Piguet's Bandit.

Now, i read @catwomaaan's post reviewing this (gist of it: blech) so I was curious about this one.

It's smoky and very sharp tanned leather, but burnt sage is most prominent, and OH NOES, it smells just like Cabochard to me. (Bc she was looking for cabochard, i had a 30ml i wasn't into, so we did a frag swap).

And Robert Piguet is expensive. Cabochard isn't. But I guess it's like Chanel 5 and Arpege? Roughly the same for 1/7 of the price.

I wore it on my wrist to get groceries in the rain, and it was kinda bracing and energising, and I liked it for what it was. (Maybe bc it's a gift from someone and not my own mistake, you think more positively of it?)

Makes me think of y'all's male witches posts, with a pretty skinny boy with an antler crown and long hair, standing in a moor somewhere with mist swirling all around. And some delicate sweetness wafting up at the end, like blueberries.