Réglisse Noire (1000 Flowers) and Eau de Réglisse (Caron)
I have written before about my experience of anise/licorice notes and all the personal associations they hold for me. And though I've dabbled in many perfumes featuring licorice, I've never really felt as though I'd found the anisic ideal.
Eau de Réglisse is a good example of a near miss. It came to me as part of a Caron "pick five" decant sampler which included Aimez-Moi, Le Troisième Homme, Violette Précieuse, and that old standby Nuit de Noel. I found Eau de Réglisse's old-fashioned lemon-drop freshness enormously attractive, but the licorice promised by its name seemed more of a whisper than a fully-voiced statement. I wore it and took pleasure in it, but I can't deny the tinge of disappointment I felt... as pale as the tinge of licorice in the midst of all that lemon.
1000 Flowers' Réglisse Noire, on the other hand, is a licorice perfume, not a perfume-with-licorice-in-it. Here is réglisse at its most glistening and regal-- elevated like a jet obelisk upon a pedestal of cedar and spice. But it lifts off like a rocket and stays in orbit for hours, weightless and luscious. Nothing with this much verve could possibly go anywhere but vertical.
In every way, Eau de Réglisse pales in comparison to Réglisse Noire. It's less tenacious, definite, distinct-- but then, it's less licorice. In a competition for best limoncello perfume, it would do pretty well for itself. But here, there's no contest.
Why wear Réglisse Noire? Because for something predicated on one of the world's stickiest and most dense confections, it's as sheer as voile and as cooling as the fine mist thrown off by an epic waterfall.
What does it do? Initially, it really, really, really makes me mourn for Callard & Bowser licorice toffees (oft-lamented now that they've been discontinued). But at some point, Réglisse Noire takes a subversive little turn into patchouli territory, landing on something akin to Lucien Lelong Tailspin, only sweeter and more transparent. Call this a triumph, for licorice and all its lovers.
How do I feel? Oh, so relaxed and composed in my veil of soft, anisic tranquility.
Scent Elements: Mandarin, basil, lemon verbena, licorice, patchouli, nutmeg, ginger, vanilla, musk (Eau de Réglisse); white pepper, ozone, mint, shiso leaf, star anise, ginger, licorice, cocoa, patchouli, cedarwood, vanilla, vetiver (Réglisse Noire)