#butterickpatterns

The Gored Skirt in the 1970s: Butterick 4139

This skirt pattern shows you how some basic cuts come back again and again, with slightly different emphasis, to serve current purposes. In the 1930s, gores--that is, pattern pieces widened from the waist to the hemline--only flared towards the lower-calf hemline. The gored look of the 1940s had more width as hemlines crept upwards and easy movement became a priority during World War II with gas rationing and more walking and talking public transit. The width of gored skirts grew enormously with the New Look in 1947, and hemlines dropped again as fabric was no longer rationed. The A-line silhouette of much of the 1960s meant that gores were not much used in mini-skirts, and simple cuts--skirts of 2 seams only-- were popular.

In contrast, this pattern from the 1970s makes the most of the 8 gores to give width and movement to the fabric of the skirt. It is fitted only at the waist and top of the hip line, then flares out from there, and ends around the knee, which reminds me of 1940s skirts. The idea of easy movement is implied by the slight sway of the pale orange skirt on the right. The style flexibility of the gored skirt is apparent in the range of blouses as much as in the lengths. The long, party skirt is for an evening out, shown here with a white gathered blouse trimmed with lace. But a bowed blouse and two collared blouses indicates that it could be worn as a shorter skirt for work or for spectator sports. In fact, the shorter blue skirt's is worn by a woman holding binoculars, as if she was at the races.

Gored skirts require two things for sewing success: fabric with drape in a solid color or a small, non-directional print. The first to allow a graceful sway as a woman moves. Think crepes or challis. The second to avoid matching a print and to allow a close placing of the pattern pieces. If you have to lay each piece with the hemline oriented at the same end, you end up need a lot of fabric. If you can nestle them close toe each alternating pieces hemline near waistline, you can use a lot less. The shorter versions only take about 1.5 yards and the long 3 yards for 36" hips.

More adventures in lingerie making!

This time I used Butterick B6031 (another pattern by Gertie), also vintage inspired of course

I made the camisole (B) and panties (D) as a test and I’m pleasantly surprised how quickly they came together! I used cotton jersey this time, which is a lot less slippery than the micro stretch jersey I used for my slip dress.

Apropos slip dress! I have decided to salvage it and maybe redo the bust and wonky seams. So I have a lot of unpicking ahead of me...

Cousin to The Seven Year Itch Halter Dress, Butterick 6938

There is a famous scene in the 1955 film, The Seven-Year Itch, a movie set in a hot summer in New York City when air conditioning was still rare. Marilyn Monroe is standing over a subway grate and the whoosh of a train blows up the skirt of her white halter dress giving some relief from the heat.

This re-issued 1950s pattern from Butterick is the cousin to that famous white dress. There are differences--Monroe’s dress by Travilla had a pleated skirt, a waist-tie, and no buttons in front--but they share a silhouette of fitted bodice with a halter neck and a full skirt.  Indeed, you could alter this pattern to make it look more like the iconic dress, but the ensemble here is both charming and practice.

The buttons on the front bodice appear on the little jacket as well. And the jacket is a nice addition since air-conditioning can create a chill on many a summer evening out.  While the buttons are functional, you get into the dress with a side zipper.

The dress and jacket take 6-7 yards of 45″ fabric, and they suggest crispy cottons like chambray, broadcloth or pique, or fancier silks like taffeta or shantung.  I  would either test muslin the bodice or add extra-large seam allowances (3/4″), so that you can tweak the close fit. You need to take into account the shape of the shoulders, the bustline and the waistline and how they relate to each other, are you long-waisted, short-waisted, etc.

Realize the skirt will be WIDE, and you may prefer to pleat it rather than gather it at the waist to reduce bulk. The 1950s designers loved the fitted bodice with the enormous skirt, but many of us find it overwhelming to the eye.

Spring Cutaway Collar, Can it Be for the Office? Butterick 6870

This re-issued pattern from the 1950s shows the two silhouettes which became popular in 1947 when Christian Dior of Paris launched his post-war New Look. Both have soft shoulders and small waistlines, while the best known as the look of the 1950s is the full-skirted silhouette, and the lesser known the slender silhouette was very popular as well, and it needed a back kickpleat to make movement possible.

Here both dresses share what they call a “cutaway cape collar” which is why I am puzzled at the detachable collar on the slender, navy-blue look. Navy blue and detachable collars were a common look for the basic dress, a dress that could have cuffs, collars, accessories, and even buttons switched out for variety in a small wardrobe. Such a wardrobe was essential to the college woman and to the wage-earning office worker. But such a low-collar would have been considered a bit flirty for the office in the 1950s. And it is shaped so that putting a sweater or short jacket would be awkward. So office workwear, party dress, or a strange hybrid? Hard to say.

The large-skirted version is clearly party wear, notice the ribbon in the back of the collar which serves no purpose except to add to the swaying movement of the woman wearing it. It seems a wonderful choice for spring weddings, graduation parties, and other celebrations. Crispy fabrics will serve for either silhouette and they recommend shantung, faille, linen, cotton pique and broadcloth; they also recommend crepe, but that does not make a lot of sense as it has a soft drape.

Both have cut-on sleeves, short, or longer with elbow darts. Such sleeves have less movement possible in them, so if you opt for long, consider whether you want to add an underarm gusset--a diamond-shaped piece--which will give you more freedom.