Bowron Trip Report
July 2023
Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit is a 116km chain of lakes in British Columbia, Canada. Julia and I paddled our canoe around the circle for 6 days, camping along the way.
This was a rare adventure where everything went as planned. Our karma bank was full and we cashed in heavily for this life-list trip.
Technically, trip planning began in 2020. Covid hit, the border shut, and life went on hold. That brings us to July 2023. Maybe that’s why the adventure gods smiled upon us, we waited a long time for this canoe vacation.
I secured our permit and prepared the gear / food months in advance. We had top of the line equipment all around and a wide variety of meals to enjoy.
Food: 8 days of dehydrated backpacking meals
Group Gear: tent, sleeping bag/pad, hammock, tarp, chairs, stove, tp, etc.
Canoe Stuff: canoe, cart, paddles, life vests, ropes, and dry bags
Clothing: way too much
Saturday July 1st we packed the Jeep and drove from Seattle to Canada. The border crossing agent was confused why we were driving deep into Canada to canoe - which we tried to explain how special a multi-day circuit was. He reluctantly let us through. It was Canada Day, so we stopped to celebrate in Hope, BC. Then onto Quesnel, BC for a hotel stay. The receptionist recommended a local Indian restaurant, which we enjoyed.
Sunday July 2nd we drove from Quesnel to Bowron Park after Tim Hortons breakfast. Orientation was scheduled for 9am, and in true Chris Coleman fashion we arrived 1 hour early. Unstrapped the canoe and loaded it up. Registration took a few minutes, then they let us watch the 15 minute orientation video early. 9am we headed up the approach trail.
The Full Bowron Circuit begins with a 2.7km portage. Portages at Bowron allow a canoe cart - which is 2 wheels you strap to the middle of the boat. It functions like a wheel barrel. Bags go in the canoe (not more than 60 pounds per boat). Julia pulls on the front and I push from the back. The trails are about 6 feet wide, rocky, and a bit up/down. Easier than most canoe portages, but not easy.
Kibbee Lake is where the paddling begins. A solo canoeist and solo kayaker were there to start with us. 2km takes us about 30 minutes to paddle. Then another 2km portage - where Julia stopped to clear the trail with our axe. Campsite #5 on Indianpoint Lake was our home for the night after another 3km paddle.
54 campsites are spread out every 2-5km on the circuit. First-come First-served, you show up and claim a spot. We only had to paddle past our desired campsite once to grab the next. Primitive sites have a fire pit, tent pad, and outhouse. Wood is provided - but it’s rough cut rounds of fresh green trees. Starting fires with wet wood was a real battle, which Julia fought and won daily for us.
Monday July 3rd we settled into our routine. Wake up at 7am. Packup the sleeping gear. Boil water for coffee + breakfast. Tear down the tent. Prep the canoe. Poop. Apply Sunblock. In the boat by 9am.
Julia saddled up in the stern of the canoe to steer us through the rest of Indiapoint Lake into a marsh area. The portage to Isaac Lake was 1.4km - the most muddy of the bunch. A slight tailwind tricked us into missing our desired campsite #18 - so we pushed onto #20. After a long day of 22km paddling we were greeted by a small cabin and fire pit with a lord of the rings type view.
The evening routine was set. Pull into camp about 3pm. Setup the tent. Start a fire. Swim. Purify drinking water. Cook. Julia reads (Clockwork Boys) aloud. Sleep by 9pm.
Tuesday July 4th I re-claimed my steering position in the back of the boat. Big guy in the back really is best, as much as I like to share duties with Julia. Paddling conditions were PERFECT. Completely flat water, cool temps, and no clouds in the sky. A short day of only 15km put us at campsite #26 by 12:30pm. Tuna on pita lunch, naked swim (aka bath + laundry), and exploring a beaver palace were chill camp activities. Truly alone out in the wilderness - enjoying the Canadian experience.
Julia badly cut her finger in the garden a week before our trip. She nursed it the entire trip. Luckily it continued to heal and the fresh pink skin grew well despite the tough conditions. Fire duty didn’t even deter healing.
Wednesday July 5th started with chipmunks chirping. They were everywhere! Their alarm calls were cute - except at 6am when I wanted to sleep in. The wilderness is a loud place between the crazy chipmunks, loon’s, woodpeckers, owl’s, and the wind.
Breakfast meals from Gastro Gnome were the best of the trip - so good we wanted to re-pitch the tent and go back to sleep after biscuits & gravy and chorizo hash.
The Chute is the most aggressive section of the circuit. It’s a small class 2 rapid where canoes need to navigate rocks and a strong right turn. We stopped to scout from shore. A family group was camping there - and we got beta on the optimal way to shoot the Chute. After hanging our tiny carved paddles on the shelter we hit the water. Smooth. I steered and Julia powered us safely through the rapids. The Rollercoaster was the next section - which we also navigated easily. Yay! The most nerve racking part of the trip was over!!
Quick portage around the cascades on Isaac River then onto Isaac Falls for a dip. The Cariboo River float after Isaac was one of our favorite sections. A soft current lessened our need for paddling - but navigation around trees and rocks in the river was critical. We took our lunch break on a sandbar in the middle of the river. Then a moose swam/walked across the river and ate her lunch. Camp at site #36 on Lanezi Lake after 25km of paddling / portaging.
Thursday July 6th was a shore day! We had been b-lining up until this point - the most direct path from point A to B - which is normally in the middle of the lake. Shore day we got to paddle near the side (which is great for seeing wildlife and it’s safer). ‘False Points’ were our nemesis. We’d guide the boat to a point, confirm on the map that our destination was there, then arrive to find it wasn’t the real point, but rather a smaller point that precedes the true point we need to reach. Tough realization when tired and hungry. Aaarg.
Lanezi Lake led into a shallow Sandy Lake. A motor boat of park operators zoomed by to tell us a burn ban was going into effect on Friday afternoon. We were already deciding how to finish the trip - and this pushed us to end a day early. The fires really helped keep the mosquitoes at bay, so a night without one would be significantly less enjoyable.
Unna Lake was our plan A campsite. A tiny lake with 5 campsites. Less secluded but the view was exceptional. A hiking trail from Unna to Cariboo Falls was 1km for up-close view of the falls for lunch. Plus a group of paddlers offered to take an old-timey polaroid photo of us (which his 3 friends protested because the setup took 10 minutes). Then another portage to Babcock River/Lake where the mosquitoes were terrible. On tiny Skoi Lake we saw a second moose.
Campsite #45 was our newly created plan B. It resulted in us paddling 25km again - a big day for us. A storm front was threatening, so we prepped camp quickly. Luckily no rain yet again.
Friday July 7th the mosquitoes broke me. Midnight pee I was brutally attacked. They don’t sleep! Morning without fire was rough. Headnets and bug jackets help - but any inch of skin not protected was bombarded. Julia’s ankles were full of bites. Fastest pack, eat, and exit from camp all week.
Spectacle Lakes we saw a few other groups, most of the trip. A funny moment was passing a yellow canoe with a father giving a firm talk to his 2 boys. Their attitude was getting set in line and their paddle strokes showed it. Ha, sorry kids.
Park Rangers checked our permits as we entered Bowron Slough to Bowron Lake. A quick chat about our experience and thoughts of canoeing in Canada. Kind folks doing a wonderful job protecting this pristine wilderness.
A snack in the reeds before Bowron Lake set us up to finish strong. Our first real headwind hit for 3km of Bowron paddle. We powered through. The final 3km of the trip were dead flat - the perfect end to a long trip. My arms, back, butt, and neck were ready to be done. 22km on our final day.
First google was Tour de France standings (poor Cavendish crashed before beating Merckx 34 win record). Then we got back to the hotel in Quesnel for a proper wash up. The same Indian restaurant hit perfectly - which I had been dreaming about since day 2 on the circuit. Fat and happy I quickly went to sleep with my CPAP.
Saturday July 8th we made the 10 hour drive home. Now we nurse our bug bites and clean out the canoe. Luckily the tomatoes and blueberries in our garden are ripe - so fresh food is back on the menu!
Bowron is truly a life-list destination for wilderness canoe tripping. So happy we were able to experience it in such perfect conditions. Onto the next adventure…
