#ball python care

Hey, snake people. In a few months I’ll be getting a ~9 year old female ball python. A former breeder.

She used to be mine when I was a teenager, but my dad sold her and all of my other snakes when I went to college without telling me. We had an agreement that he could sell some snakes, but he was supposed to keep the few I specified. This snake was one of them. He sold her anyway. I’m still in college, but I’m getting my shit together so I can get her back... and hopefully some of my others, too. If I can afford to, and if I have the ability to care for them. Her current owner has agreed to sell her back to me, and I’m thrilled. She’s gravid right now, but after she lays and starts eating again, I can bring her back home.

Here’s the trouble: She’s been in a rack system her whole life. That picture up above is from when I used to own her. I didn’t know any better when I was a teenager (I mean, I got her when I was fourteen. I was still in middle school), but now I’d like to transition her to the pet life. I bought her a 4x2x2 foot PVC cage, which is the best I can afford and the most I can realistically fit in a college dorm, and the most I can even sort of move with. I know she can go on and off of food when her living circumstances are changed, and her current owner told me that she’ll only eat if she’s in a grey tub.

So, anyone who has any ideas at all, how can I transition her to pet life? What do I need to do? I’m reading up on ball python care again, but I also could really use personal guidance if anyone can help me. Anything on the transition, moving with a ball python (due to, you know, not permanently living in a dorm), enrichment... Really anything. She’s probably pretty overweight and undermuscled, so uh, snake physical therapy advice would even be helpful.

Also, if anyone has any guidance on how to DIY appropriately sized and enriched ball python enclosures that are easier to move with, cheaper, etc., please let me know. I want to do it right this time, and if I can get more of my former snakes back, I’d like to. It’s just.. really challenging.

I do have two snakes at college with me now, a Honduran milk snake and a Kenyan sand boa. No trouble there. It’s just intimidating jumping back into ball pythons when I know I’ve made so many mistakes with them previously.

It begins.

Have to wait for the silicon to cure, the fake plants to arrive, and for @wheremyscalesslither to make my commissioned background piece. Substrate will be 4 inches deep.

I just wanted to talk about basic ball python care. Now before I even get into any of that I just want to point out: 1. I am speaking from my own knowledge and my own experiences. I am in now way an absolute professional. I have been keeping snakes and reptiles for a handful of years, and I have spent tons of times researching and learning everything I can about the animals I have taken in. 2. If you have information I would appreciate learning and discussing that with you in a respectful, and constructive way. So feel free to share your experiences and what you have learned. 

With that out of the way onto snake care.

The first step in taking on a new pet of any kind is to RESEARCH. You need to look up and learn all of the things you will need to do and acquire before ever bring your new pet home. Some of the things I would suggest, would be: natural habitat, life span, adult size, enclosure, and over all care. If all of those things sound like an animal you can commit to and care for 100% then the next step is setting up the enclosure.

So you are ready to buy your favorite morph of ball python. With relative size and adult size in mind, you will need the appropriate enclosure. A young ball python will be ok in a 20 gallon long enclosure but a full grown will need more space. I keep my full grown male in a 50 gallon enclosure (custom enclosure in the works-to be updated) Next you will need to make sure your temperature and humidity are correct. It’s best to get and under the enclosure heat source such as a heat pad. You will also need a thermostat to control the temperature as well as gauge for the humidity. You will need a warm to cool gradient across the enclosure: warm side-cool side. The temps know to work best are: Basking- 88 to 92-6 degrees, Ambient temp-70-82 degrees, Humidity-50-60% (up to 80% during shed) its important to only mist when needed to bump up temps for shedding or dry months. 

Glass enclosure vs. Rack System: glass allows for more view ability but can be hard to keep humidity where it needs to be. To help this you can cover part of the mesh top to hold in some of that humidity. Racks are better for keeping humidity but lack the view ability.  Once you have the enclosure of your choice set up appropriately and you monitor the temps and humidity for 24-72 hours to make sure everything is working correctly and exactly where you want it to be, then its time to add your new ball python! They are very affordable ranging from $60-$80, but the enclosures can run up to a couple hundred dollars realistically.

When you get a heat mat for your reptile, you have to attach this to a thermostat. Why?  A heat matt overheating is not unheard of, or rare. A ball python (or any reptile!) needs a very specific temperature, something you cannot achieve with an unregulated heating element. 

There are two types of Thermostats for reptile.  One with an off/on function or one with a dimming/pulse function. ALWAYS go with the dimming pulse one.  Why? Because with an off/on function you van never achieve a constant temperature. When too hot the heat matt will turn off, too cold and it’ll turn back on. Causing the heat matt to reach higher and lower temperatures than you might be aware of, but your ball python will most definetly feel it.  A dimmer/pulse function means the heat will actually pulse, not reaching differences larger than 0,2 degrees celsius.  What brands do I recommend? 

The exo terra 600W works excellent!

The  Microclimate EVO Lite works excellent aswell! 

Microclimate Oled Dimming thermostat works excellent! 

What You’ll Need

* Enclosure: Locking Lid Plastic Tub or aquarium (20 gal recommended for a baby, at least 40 gal for adult male, 55-75 gal for adult female. If you choose an aquarium, I recommend investing in clips, to prevent your ball python from escaping)

* Heating: Under Tank Heater (UTH)

* Heat Regulation: Thermostat

* Humidity Regulation: Hygrometer

* Substrate: Cypress Mulch mixed with Eco Earth (substrate is based on preference, I highly recommend a substrate that hold moisture)

* Hide #1

* Hide #2

* Hide #3

* Enrichment: Fake Vines, Branches, Driftwood, etc.)

* Water Dish: any water dish your ball python can fit in

* Feeding Tongs

* Disinfectant: Chlorhexidine (there are other products you can use as disinfectant, this is what works best for me)

* 2 Spray Bottles (1 for misting, 1 for disinfectant)

* Feeders: mice or rats, depending on the size of your ball python. (I highly recommend frozen/thawed)

*Products can be found at Walmart, Amazon.com, and pet supply stores. Some products might be cheaper from other sources, compare prices as you wish.

Steps for Setting Up Plastic Tub

* Acquire all materials as seen in “Initial Costs”

* Drill holes for ventilation in the tub

* Deep clean and disinfect tub and let it air out (roughly 30-45 minutes)

* Deep clean and disinfect hides, enrichment, and water dish; let it air out (roughly 30-45 minutes)

* Set up enclosure, starting with substrate (2-3 inches worth), then placing hides, enrichment, and water dish in an organized fashion. Make sure the hides are evenly spread out, so the snake has the option to hide anywhere in the enclosure.

* Place the UTH to the far left or far right side of the enclosure (make sure it is UNDERNEATH the enclosure)

* Plug the UTH into the thermostat, and plug the thermostat into the wall. To set the temperature for the thermostat, press and hold the “Set” button until the numbers start blinking, then adjust the temperature to 90℉

* Install hygrometer and adjust humidity by misting the enclosure until the hygrometer reads 50-60%

*Steps for setting up aquarium are the same, except you don’t have to drill holes in it.

Care

* Heating: Ball pythons, like all reptiles, are cold blooded, so they cannot regulate their body temperature. It is very important to provide a heat gradient for your ball python. This basically means having a warm side and a cool side. The warm side should be between 87-90℉ (to be regulated by the thermostat) and the cool side should not drop below 70℉, but typically room temperature will suffice. As long as your ball python has can access the warm side and the cool side at all times and have hides at both ends, they should be just fine. The best heating element for a ball python is a UTH, which should cover approximately ⅓ of the entire enclosure. If you cannot maintain at least 70℉ on the cool side, invest in a ceramic heat emitter (CHE).

* Humidity: Ball pythons like their humidity around 50-60%. It is highly recommended to bring the humidity up to 60-70% during shed. What I’ve found to be both effective and more convenient, is to maintain 50-60% during shed, but also provide a humid hide during shed, and only during shed. The humid hide is a plastic tupperware container that your ball python can go in and out of freely. The substrate within the hide should be able to hold moisture, such as sphagnum moss (I will use paper towels from time to time, that works for me as well). Humidity in the humid hide should not be too high, so as to avoid a respiratory infection (RI), but high enough to help your snake have a good, full shed.

* Shedding: Shedding happens every 4-6 weeks, give or take. When they shed, it means they’ve grown. Younger snakes will shed more than older snakes, as the growth rate decreases, but never stops. Shedding happens in stages. Stage one is pink belly. At this point, you want to start dampening the humid hide regularly (once in the morning and once at night), OR up the humidity to 60-70%. After a few days the pink belly will clear up and you’ll notice your ball python looks dull and their eyes get cloudy, also known as “being in blue” or “zombie mode”. Your ball python will become irritable and sensitive, so it’s best not to handle them. “Zombie mode” will last a couple days, and then your ball python will shed. The whole process lasts about 1 week. Your ball python may refuse to eat until shed is complete, so it’s best to wait until they finish shedding and feed them the following night.

* Feeding: Feedings should happen once a week, or every 5-7 days for babies. Adults will eat either once a week, or every other week, depending on the size of your snake and its prey. Smaller snake and smaller prey = once a week. Larger snake and larger prey = every other week. Feeding schedules are subject to change. Prey should be about 1.5x the thickest part of your ball python. You should be able to see a little lump in their stomach after they eat. Ball pythons can be picky eaters, and sometimes go off feed for months at a time (typically November-February). This is no reason to panic, ball pythons have bizarre metabolisms and can go months without eating and barely lose weight. If your ball python is being picky and losing weight, there are tricks you can use to convince them to eat.

* Water: Fresh water should always be available for your ball python to drink or soak in. However, if they are frequently soaking, there might be an underlying issue you want to look into ASAP. At the bare minimum, change water once a week. Every other day is ideal, and 2-3 times a week is sufficient. You may never see your snake drink, as they get most of their hydration from their meals and the humidity. It is still essential to provide water.

* Lighting: Ball pythons are crepuscular, which means they are most active at dawn and dusk. It is not uncommon to see them up during the day and in the middle of the night, but they will be most active at dawn and dusk. Since they are crepuscular, you do not need to provide them with UVB, or any other type of lighting. Natural day and night cycles are the best option. If you cannot provide natural day/night cycles, provide a light bulb that produces little to no heat (so as not to mess with the ambient temperature in the enclosure), and use a timer to manage the day/night cycles.

* Cleaning: Spot clean everyday. Check for poop, urate, and shed everyday and remove as necessary. Deep clean once a month. Dispose of all substrate, disinfect enclosure, hides, enrichment, and water bowl. Let everything air out for 30-45 minutes before replacing substrate and hides, enrichment, and water bowl.

* Bathing: It is unnecessary to bathe your ball python regularly. The only time a bath is required is if your snake is stuck in shed, has slithered through poop and is covered in it, or if they have mites. Even if they are covered in poop, a “sponge bath” may be more appropriate. Bathing too frequently can cause respiratory infections. Some mite treatments don’t require frequent bathing, look into different treatment methods and choose one based on effectiveness and what’s best for your snake.

Pros and Cons

* Pros:

*Quiet pets

* Little to no odor

* Easy to feed

* Easy to clean up after

* Docile animals

* Don’t require socialization

* Easy to handle

* Hardy animals

* Cons:

* It’s a snake...ew (jk)

* Easy to neglect

* Lifespan ~30 years (this is only a con because that’s a long commitment)

* Can sometimes be picky eaters

* IF they get sick, vet bills are expensive (ball pythons are hardly snakes, health issues are rare so long as husbandry is good)

* They don’t “love” their owners, they don’t form bonds like mammals do

Tips

* When replacing the cypress mulch, let it dry out for a couple hours so the humidity doesn’t get too high and you can avoid risking a respiratory infection. You can easily increase humidity, but decreasing humidity is far more challenging.

* Keep a bottle of Natural Chemistry Reptile Spray on hand. Snake mites are the most common ailment amongst ball pythons, and having a bottle on hand to start treatment ASAP is really helpful. You may never need it, but it doesn’t hurt to keep it as a precaution.

* Don’t handle your ball python for at least a week after getting it, let it get accustomed to its new environment.

* Don’t handle your ball python before it eats, sometimes handling can stress it out and it won’t eat.

* Don’t handle your ball python for a couple days after it’s eaten to avoid regurgitation. If your ball python does regurgitate, wait about 2 weeks before feeding again to allow its esophagus to heal from the stomach acid.

* Handle your ball python for 15 minutes a day (except before and after feeding) to get it used to handling.

* Do regular research, you may discover a better method of reptile keeping.

* Talk to other reptile keepers, everyone has their own method and you might learn what to do as well as what not to do.

* Change the arrangement of your ball python’s enclosure every once in a while. It’s added enrichment for them to explore, it’s good for their brains, and it’s fun to get creative.

* Ball pythons are semi-arboreal, so it may be helpful to provide them with something to climb on. While it is not necessary, it’s added enrichment and it’s pretty cool to watch them climb.

* You can never have enough enrichment!!! Obviously, don’t over-stuff your enclosure, but the more enrichment, the better.

So you guys remember that lovely golden hognose I picked up for a friend (Ginger)? Well we both looked him over and even though both of us know better he was only quarantined for a couple weeks. He was eating fine, showed no internal parasites or other signs of disease so we felt comfortable bringing him to reptile booths and presentations with other animals (including mine.)

Fast forward to two days ago I took him out to show people at a booth and he was a crawling with mites. None of her other critters showed any signs of them so we assume he came with them and they were just subclinical until recently. 

So now the rest of my friends collection, my collection, and some other volunteer’s collections have all been exposed, I spent all of Saturday after the festival cleaning every reptile relates item I own and treating the room and shelves with permethrin. I also soaked all the snakes and treated them and Han in case they have any that aren't noticeable yet.

I had to trow out a whole bale of aspen because there is no way for me to bake the whole thing, and anything I couldn't clean or bake Is being heat treated in my food dehydrator at 145 degrees Fahrenheit. 

If Ginger had been properly quarantined I would not have had to spend over 5 hours cleaning and worry that I might have to do all of it again if any of my critters show signs. I can’t even imagine the work it must have taken for my friend who has a MUCH larger collection, and who makes money to support it through exhibitions. If her whole collection or even half of it were to get mites (a very real possibility now) it would be a disaster. 

This is why you should always quarantine new animals, no matter how healthy they look, for at east 90 days. I got this snake in April and it took this long for symptoms to appear. Mites are bad enough, imagine if he had been crying a protozoa or viral infection. We did not use the ounce of prevention so now we are looking at the pound of cure.